SLATER STRENGTH Atlas Stone Mold Instructions
- June 1, 2024
- SLATER STRENGTH
Table of Contents
SLATER STRENGTH Atlas Stone Mold
Items Needed for Assembly
- (1) Roll of Good Quality Duct Tape (Gorilla Tape strongly recommended)
- (1) Can of Tri-Flow Lubricant (or another silicone based lubricant/form release)
- (1) 5-Gallon Bucket, 40-gallon garbage can, or 16.5-gallon galvanized tub.
- (1) Concrete mixing bag, wheelbarrow and trowel, or another method for mixing concrete
- (1) Roll of Stretch Wrap
(Optional)
NOTE : If pouring a stone greater than 14″, SAND IS REQUIRED to help support the stone inside the can or bucket. The mold needs to be nested properly in the sand supporting the weight of the mold filled with concrete.
Please read full instruction carefully before assembling.
The Slater Atlas Stone Mold was first designed by Steve Slater in 2002. After a few design changes, production of the current Slater Atlas Stone Mold began in the basement of Slater’s Hardware and is still produced by the Slater family today. Stones made from our molds have been used in prestigious competitions such as the Arnold Classic and the World’s Strongest Man Series, and have contributed to numerous Atlas Stone World Records. We hope that the stones you produce with our molds allow you to grow stronger, challenge yourself, and have a great time getting stronger. We wish you the best with making your Slater Stone and in your future strength endeavors.
Always remember:
It is not the size of the stone lifter
It is the size of the stone lifted
MAKING THE STONE
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Step 1 : Spray the inside of the mold and black retaining ring with lubricant (We recommend Tri-Flow, or another silicone-based lubricant).
NOTE: Without lubricant, it will be significantly more difficult to open the mold after the concrete cures. Using lubricant also prolongs the life of your mold. You will without-a-doubt regret not using lubricant! -
Step 2: Place the two halves of the mold together, lining up the two black lines on each half of the mold. Look inside of the mold to ensure the two halves are seated tight against each other.
NOTE: If you are using a lightening insert, reference lightening insert instructions below at this time. -
Step 3: Take approximately 8 strips of tape (we highly suggest gorilla tape, available on our website), and evenly tape from the top to the bottom of the stone mold, connecting the two halves.
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Step 4: Tape around the retaining ring 2-3 times, or to desired security. You should now have 8 strips of tape running vertically and a few layers of tape running horizontally around the stone mold.
NOTE: Wrap your mold with several layers of stretch wrap for extra stability and easy clean-up. Once you have the mold wrapped, cut out the stretch wrap covering the pour whole, and tape around the edge of the pour whole to secure the stretch wrap. -
Step 5: You have two options (Choose One)
OPTION 1. Pack the mold in either a 40-gallon garbage can, (We suggest Brute brand by Rubbermaid), or a 5-gallon bucket with sand inside of it, acting as a nest for the stone mold. This will work for up to an 18” mold, and will keep the mold together and stone in proper shape. Without the sand used to nest the stone mold, the bucket is likely to leave an impression in the stone and stone mold.
OPTION 2. Place the mold in a tire, so that the bottom of the mold is a few inches off of the ground when empty. This ensures the mold will not touch the ground upon adding concrete (which could affect the shape of the stone). If available, try to steer away from firmer tires, as they might leave a slight indentation around the finished stone. Also note, if you use this technique, we suggest using slightly more tape, as it will be the primary support for the stone.
NOTE : Adding an old piece of carpet, thin rubber mat, etc., in between the stone mold and the tire will help prevent an indentation caused by the tire. -
Step 6: (Optional but Recommended)
You can either spray the outside of the mold with lubricant, OR wrap the outside of your mold with shrink- wrap.
NOTE : You will most likely spill some concrete on the outside of the mold during the pouring process, and taking these precautions will make for easier clean-up and help prolong the life of your mold. Shrink-wrap, in addition to the tape, will help support your stone mold. -
Step 7: Mix the concrete. For one to two molds, we suggest using a Concrete Mixing Bag (available on our website). We use them often and highly recommend this product. If you have the luxury of a cement mixer though, we advise using that instead.
NOTE : If you purchased concrete strengthening fibers, mix them into the concrete mix at his
time. -
Step 8: Pour the mixed concrete into your atlas stone mold. Make sure to take a dowel rod or a rod/stick of some sort to mix up the concrete once it is poured. This helps break up any air bubbles. It is also helpful to tap the mold lightly with a rubber mallet or hammer. You can also shake the mold a little, or twist the mold back and forth to rotate the concrete inside the poured mold. All of these steps will help break up air bubbles.
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Step 9 : After a day or two, release the mold. To do this, make sure the “pour hole” is facing upward, and not resting on the ground. Next, use the wooden “tap stick” (included with every order) and with a hammer, tap up on the retaining ring. After a few hits, the mold should start to pop off. Repeat this with the bottom half of the mold.
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Step 10: Let the stone cure for around a week. For good concrete strength, we suggest a 7-day cure time. The concrete will be fully cured in around a month.
Adding Lightening Inserts
PLEASE NOTE: It is important to follow our guidelines for lightening insert use. Using too large of a lightening insert in too small a mold could result in a disfigured stone mold or an unsafe, unusable atlas stone. See the table below for proper lightening insert sizing:
Lightening Insert Size| Approximate Weight Loss| Minimum Mold
Size
---|---|---
6”| 10 lbs.| 14”
8”| 25 lbs.| 16”
10”| 42 lbs.| 18”
12”| 70 lbs.| 20”
These inserts are designed to lighten your stone by replacing the center of the stone with high density foam. Inserts are designed to automatically float into the center of your mold while concrete is being poured.
PLEASE TAKE THESE STEPS BEFORE YOU PUT THE MOLD TOGETHER
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Step 1: Drill a ¼” hole at the bottom of your mold (mold half without the poor hole).
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Step 2: You will want the lightening insert to float at the center of the mold once the concrete is poured. Make a mark on the lightning insert’s cord, down from the insert, at the location where the insert will be centered inside the mold.
THE LOCATION TO MARK = (The radius of our stone mold) MINUS (The radius of our lightning insert) EXAMPLE: If you are inserting a 10” lightening insert into a 20” atlas stone mold. You will make a mark on the cord 5” down from the insert. Thus, (5” Cord) + (5” Radius of insert) = 10”(Radius of 20” stone mold) -
Step 3: Pull the cord of the insert through the ¼” hole until you reach your mark from Step 3, tying a few knots on the outside of the mold to secure the lightning insert. Tape the knots on the outside of the mold for additional strength.
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Step 4: Continue through the original instructions to set up the stone mold.
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Step 5: Pour the concrete in, covering the insert, and eventually filling the mold. You may have to reach inside of the mold and pull the insert into place in the event that concrete is just covering the insert and not filling under it. If everything is measured correctly and the cord secured properly with knots, the insert should naturally float to the center of the mold.