ECCARBURETORS EGO-1D Racing 3-Disc Clutch Instruction Manual
- June 1, 2024
- ECCARBURETORS
Table of Contents
ECCARBURETORS EGO-1D Racing 3-Disc Clutch
Specifications
- Product Name: EC EGO Racing 3-Disc Clutch for 3/4 Shafts
- Material: Aluminum, Steel
- Disc Count: 3
- Designed for: 4-cycle racing
- Spring Type: Specially selected clutch springs
Product Information
- To design a racing clutch that is both durable and high-performing is a tricky feat but easily captured by the EGO Clutch 4 cycle racing clutch.
- The EGO Clutch was purpose-built for the racer by racers.
- Utilizing cutting-edge friction disc material allows the clutch to run longer between rebuilds with minimal performance loss.
- Spring and lever location work together and are crucial in the performance and longevity of the clutch.
- Specially selected clutch springs give the clutch repeatability in every race without the chance of coil bind.
- Coil bind results in the clutch hitting hard, slipping for a moment, and then accelerating.
- The hesitation is eliminated with the EGO Clutch.
Product Usage Instructions
Sprocket Installation
- When installing the sprocket in the clutch drum, use the large snap ring and the set screws to prevent the snap ring from rotating.
- The outer washer is installed between the sprocket and the drive hub snap ring.
- When measuring with a feeler gauge, the end play clearance should be between .010 and .030.
Blueprinting
- Adjustment Rule of Thumb: Clutch engagements are usually set within 200rpms of peak torque for the engine.
- Each type of racing is unique and different classes of engines have different power curves; dyno and on-track adjustments are necessary for optimized performance.
- If you don’t have a dyno or your engine builder did not provide a dyno sheet to know the engine’s peak torque rpm, don’t worry; we can still get you to set your clutch for optimal acceleration.
Recommended Starting Engagement
- Clone Red Plate – 2800 RPM
- Clone Green Plate/212cc Out-of-the-box – 3000 RPM
- Clone Purple Plate – 3200 RPM
- Clone Blue Plate – 3400 RPM
- Briggs LO206/Tillotson 212RS/Ghost 212 – 3400 RPM
- Tillotson 225RS/Adult 196 Stocker – 3800 RPM
- OHV Super Stock – 4200 RPM
- OHV Limited Modified – 4800 RPM
- OHV Open Modified – 5800 RPM
FAQ
Q: Is there a warranty for the Racing Clutch?
A: No warranty is expressed or implied for any racing component, including this Racing Clutch. Parts that appear, in our opinion, to have been installed cannot be returned under our return policy.
Q: Are EC Clutch Sprockets included with the Racing Clutch?
A: EC Clutch Sprockets are sold separately.
PARTS DESCRIPTION
EC EGO Racing 3-Disc Clutch for 3/4” Shafts
| REF # | PART # | DESCRIPTION |
|---|---|---|
| EGO-1D | Aluminum 1-Disc Clutch | |
| [EGO-2D](https://www.eccarburetors.com/EC-EGO-2-Disc-34-Racing- | ||
| Clutch_p_103.html) | Aluminum 2-Disc Clutch | |
| EGO-2DS | Steel |
2-Disc Clutch
| EGO-2DV| Aluminum Vented 2-Disc Clutch
| EGO-3DS| Steel
3-Disc Clutch
1| EGO-1| 7/8” Snap Ring (for Bearing Sleeve)
2| EGO-2|
1-18” x 7/8” x 0.030” Washer
5| EGO-3| Aluminum 1-Disc Basket
5| EGO-3A| Aluminum 2-Disc Basket
5| EGO-3B| Steel 2-Disc Basket
5| EGO-3C| Steel 3-Disc Basket
6| EGO-4| Thin Inner Race Thrust Washer
7| EGO-5| Inner Race Needle Bearing
8| EGO-4A| Thick Inner Race Thrust Washer
9| EGO-6|
Inner Race (Bearing Sleeve)
10| EGO-7| 10-32 x 3/8” BH-TORX Backing Plate Bolt
11| EGO-8| Backing Plate
12| EGO-9| Friction Plate
15| EGO-10| Pressure Plate
14| EGO-11| Drive Hub 1-Disc
14| EGO-11A| Drive Hub 2-Disc
14| EGO-11B| Drive Hub 3-Disc
16| EGO-12| Aluminum Activator Plate
22| EGO-13| 10-32 x 3/8” SHCS Activator Plate Bolt
21| EGO-14|
Clutch Key 3/16” x 3/4”
---|---|---
20| EGO-15| Aluminum Clutch Retaining Washer
18| EGO-16|
Clutch Lever
17| EGO-17|
Clutch Lever Dowel Pin
24| EGO-18| Clutch Stall Spring
26| EGO-19| Stall Spring Adjustment Screw
25| EGO-20| Stall Spring Retaining Washer
23| EGO-21| Clutch Lever Weight Nut
19| EGO-22| Clutch Lever Weight Bolt
| | Clutch Bolt Kit
13| EGO-090| 0.090” Floater Plate
13| EGO-095| 0.095” Floater Plate
13| EGO-100| 0.100” Floater Plate
4| 3575-11T| 11 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-12T| 12 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-13T| 13 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-14T| 14 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-15T| 15 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-16T| 16 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-17T| 17 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-18T| 18 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-19T| 19 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-20T| 20 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
4| 3575-21T| 21 Tooth #35 Sprocket 3/4” Bore
3| | Sprocket Needle Bearing
- To design a racing clutch that is both durable and high-performing is a tricky feat but easily captured by the EGO Clutch 4 cycle racing clutch. The EGO Clutch was purpose-built for the racer by racers.
- Utilizing cutting-edge friction disc material allows the clutch to run longer between rebuilds with minimal performance loss. Spring and lever location work together and are crucial in the performance and longevity of the clutch.
- Specially selected clutch springs give the clutch repeatability in every race without the chance of coil bind. Coil bind results in the clutch hitting hard, slipping for a moment, and then accelerating. The hesitation is eliminated with the EGO Clutch.
- No warranty is expressed or implied for any racing component, including this Racing Clutch. Parts that appear, in our opinion, to have been installed cannot be returned under our return policy.
Models
- Disc AKRA/NKA JR/Restrictor Plate, Box Stock Predator 5500rpm limit. The 1-Disc allows our small plate racers to eliminate rotating weight and maintain positive lock-up.
- Disc design allows us to run this clutch in Animal and Clones Adult Stockers and Mild Modifieds.
- The disc version is purpose-built to handle the torque output of Limited & Open Modified Animals and Clones.
- The disc is for extreme engine output such as Honda GX390, Predator 420 & WildCat 460 Big Block Engines with 1-inch Output Shaft EC Clutch Sprockets are sold separately.
Sprockets
- EC Clutch Sprockets are manufactured using the highest grade materials, CNC machining, and heat treat processing. The sprocket has a removable needle bearing designed for applications with minimal lubrication.
- You only need to apply a light amount of lubrication to the bearing before installation; we recommend using high-temperature assembly grease or gear oil during a rebuild or maintenance period and allow the bearing to air dry before reinstalling the bearing.
- If you can see the lubricant on the needle rollers, you have probably used too much. Lubricates and other contaminants can migrate to the friction discs, reducing the life expectancy and engagement quality.
- When installing the sprocket in the clutch drum, use the large snap ring and the set screws to prevent the snap ring from rotating.
- The outer washer is installed between the sprocket and the drive hub snap ring. When measuring with a feeler gauge, the end play clearance should be between .010” and .030”.
Blueprinting
- The EGO Clutch comes factory blueprinted. The parts are CNC machined, and the plate is accurately and professionally ground.
- Following our instructions will give you the most performance out of your clutch. If you choose to have a “Blueprinted clutch,” be sure you are dealing with a reputable blueprinter.
- Some shops or individuals offer clutch blueprinting that does not have the equipment to do the job or test the results correctly. Often they do little more than set the spring height and air gap and send a hefty bill. With that being said, there are also some outstanding craftsmen blueprinting clutches. Make sure you research and know the clutch builder.
Adjustment
- Rule of Thumb: Clutch engagements are usually set within 200rpms of peak torque for the engine. Each type of racing is unique and different classes of engines have different power curves; dyno and on-track adjustments are necessary for optimized performance. If you don’t have a dyno or your engine builder did not provide a dyno sheet to know the engine’s peak torque rpm, don’tdon’t worry; we can still get you to set your clutch for optimal acceleration.
- We can provide a recommended starting engagement, but if your clutch is not accelerating as it should, lower the rpm engagement but above idle so the clutch doesn’t engage when the kart needs to stand still. The low stall will likely bog the engine during low-speed acceleration, but you’ll do no damage to the clutch. After a few practice laps, raise the engagement in ¼ to ½ turn increments (clockwise) until the engine no longer bogs on acceleration. Check your lap times, and if you have a data logger like an AIM
- SPORTS MYCHRON or ALFANO 6, you can check the data for cornering acceleration. OHV Engines produce peak torque at lower RPMs than flatheads, so expect to lower your clutch engagement to utilize your engine’s entire powerband. If the engagement is too high, much higher than the peak torque, this can cause slippage, heat, and costly repair. By following these steps, you have optimized your engagement point. Record your install height and data; this will be useful when you experience changes in performance to tune further or service and rebuild your clutch.
Recommended Starting Engagement
Clone Red Plate| Clone Green Plate/ 212cc Out-of-the-box| Clone Purple Plate|
Clone Blue Plate| Briggs LO206/ Tillotson 212RS/ Ghost 212| Tillotson 225RS/
Adult 196 Stocker| OHV Super Stock| OHV Limited Modified| OHV Open Modified
2800| 3000| 3200| 3400| 3400| 3800| 4200|
4800| 5800
Spring Height:
- Modified Race Engines that require more than 4800rpm can remove the lever weight bolt and nut to extend the engagement.
- They are measured from the bottom of the spring retainer to the activator plate. To set the springs is simple; if you need a higher stall, turn them in equally ¼ turn at a time; lower engagement turns them out equally.
3-Disc Clutch| Adjustment Spring Install Height (Top of Activator
Plate to Top of Retainer)|
---|---|---
Clutch Stall Engagement RPM|
Approx. RPM w/ Bolt| 2800| 3000| 3200| 3400| 3600|
3800| 4000| 4200| 4400| 4600
Spring install Height| .510| .495| .480| .465| .450|
.435| .420| .405| .390| .375
Approx. RPM w/o Bolt| 3600| 3800| 4000| 4200| 4400|
4600| 4800| 5000| 5200| 5400
Installation
- Check the engine’s crankshaft for smoothness and cleanliness. Remove all dirt, rust, and burrs.
- Install the clutch and sprocket towards the engine, checking to make sure the clutch does not extend over the end of the crankshaft
- Install the keyway provided with the clutch
- Install the clutch mounting bolt kit. Check for a minimum of .015” and a maximum of .030” end play. After installing your clutch to your engine, measure the end play with a feeler gauge between the end of the drive hub and the crankshaft washer. Reducing end play is done by using shims. If the crankshaft is short, you will need to increase the endplay with a stepped aluminum bushing on the end of the crankshaft. You can do this by placing the bushing on the end of the crankshaft, allowing the clutch hub to slide over it. Not having enough end play can cause permanent damage to your EGO Clutch.
Clutch Maintenance
- Always do clutch maintenance as soon as possible following a race. Calcium and moisture in the air are two significant dangers when working with clutches.
- Rust and corrosion will hinder clutch performance and longevity. Clutches should be stored in a dry, clean, controlled environment. Never lube your chain with a spray-on lubricant (Tri-flow/WD-40).
- Use a non-fling style lubricant. We have had excellent results with chain wax or a dry film lubricant. We recommend Maxima Racing Oil Chain Wax Lube.
- To maintain an optimal performing clutch, clean the clutch immediately after each race night.
- Remove the Clutch from the engine, check the output shaft for wear, clean the surface with brake cleaner, and wipe the shaft with Maxima MPPL to prevent rust.
- Use compressed air to blow the loose dirt and debris off the clutch. Remove the 7/8 Snap Ring to remove the clutch basket and sprocket from the inner race-bearing sleeve. Check the sprocket and needle bearing for cracks, hot spots, and wear. Check the clutch basket for wear and cracks where the sprocket mounts and the tangs of the friction discs meet the basket. The sprocket should fit tight and firmly; if it cannot support itself firmly against the basket, the basket needs to be replaced.
- If the parts are in good condition, take the two pieces and soak them in a bath of WD40 for about 10 minutes. Stubborn dirt can be cleaned with a soft-bristle brush.
- Afterward, blow the clutch out with compressed air and allow it to air dry completely.
- Lubricate the sprocket bearing with a light, small amount of high-temperature bearing grease or gear oil. Some may recommend using Vaseline(Petroleum Jelly).
- Petroleum Jelly is not designed for high temperatures(melting point ~165 degrees), nor has the sheer stabilizers and anti-wear additives of an assembly grease.
- Petroleum Jelly melts away quickly, causing it not to stick well to surfaces, and doesn’t offer wear protection.
- It can cover the friction surfaces of the clutch, hinder performance, and induce uneven wear.
- Next, Remove the Thrust Washers and Bearings. Check for missing rollers, warpages, and wear. Replace if needed; otherwise, clean them with Maxima MPPL and allow them to dry on a lint-free towel. There is no need to lubricant the thrust bearings since the grease or oil can easily fling onto the friction discs.
- Cleaning the Friction Surfaces. Do not clean or soak the EGO clutch with brake cleaner, acetone, or similar degreasers. These chemicals can damage the friction disc material and the clutch. Instead, we use penetrating oils like WD-40 to remove dirt and contaminants from the material. In some cases of heavy dirt, we use a soft bristle brush to agitate and clean the friction discs.
- First, Use compressed air to blow any loose dirt and debris from the clutch. Next, using Maxima MPPL or WD-40, spray the clutch from the inside out to push the dirt away from the levers, inner race, and friction surfaces.
- Use a long bristle brush to reach tricky areas. Otherwise, the dirt collects on the inside of the clutch. Spray the friction discs directly and as much as you can.
- Alternatively, you can soak the clutch in a container of WD-40 for 10-15 minutes to loosen dirt and contaminants. Afterward, blow the clutch out with compressed air until completely dry and allow it to air-dry overnight.
- The pressure plate and the clutch hub should periodically be checked for warpage and straightness. If in doubt, the plates and hubs should be re-grounded or replaced.
- Levers require visual inspection each time the clutch is disassembled. Look for flat spots developing on the nose of the lever. By the nose, we refer to where the lever contacts the pressure plate.
- If any noticeable wear is seen, the lever should be replaced. Also, ensure the lever can rotate freely on the dowel pin.
Clutch Rebuilding
After extended use, it becomes necessary to rebuild the clutch.
Checking Air Gap
The air gap for the EGO is set between .028-.036” and optimized around a .032 air gap; we offer different sizes of floaters along with the offset backing plate allowing the racer to maintain a proper air gap setting at all times. A maximum air gap of .045 is the wear limit. Always have the beveled end of the clutch sprocket inner race towards the engine. The backspacer sits on the crankshaft after the clutch is already installed. Once the clutch is “run-in” after the first or second event, minor spring height adjustment may be needed. The run-in period allows the friction discs to sit with the floater & pressure plates.
Friction Disc/Surfaces
- Whenever the friction discs are replaced, all of the matching friction surfaces on the floaters and pressure plates must be either re-grounded or replaced. These surfaces rely on the crosshatch pattern ground on their surfaces to properly break in a new set of friction discs. If the steel friction surfaces are re-ground, the process must result in a proper crosshatch, and the finished surface must be completely flat. The contact between the surfaces will never become as intended without the appropriate surface finish, and performance will suffer.
- Never use sandpaper to rough up or deglaze the surfaces. This method cannot keep the surfaces flat enough, nor can it provide the proper crosshatching. It will give some “teeth” for the friction material to bite into and may improve grip initially. However, after the roughness has worn off, the clutch will perform worse than it did before. (The coarse sanding usually takes 2 to 3 starts to be worn away)
- Thanks for purchasing EC’s EGO Disc Clutch. Follow us for the latest in development and service.
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Documents / Resources
|
ECCARBURETORS EGO-1D Racing 3-Disc
Clutch
[pdf] Instruction Manual
EGO-1D, EGO-1D Racing 3-Disc Clutch, Racing 3-Disc Clutch, 3-Disc Clutch,
Clutch
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