JELD-WEN JII110 Interior Door Slabs Installation Guide
- June 1, 2024
- Jeld Wen
Table of Contents
- JELD-WEN JII110 Interior Door Slabs
- IMPORTANT INFORMATION
- Glossary
- SAFETY
- Storage and Handling
- Finishing
- MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- 1. REMOVE PACKAGING AND INSPECT SLAB
- 2. INSPECT EXISTING JAMB
- 3. TITLELL SLAB
- NOTICE
- Install Hinges
- 4. COMPLETE INSTALLATION
- Specifications:
- FAQ:
- References
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
JELD-WEN JII110 Interior Door Slabs
INSTALLATION GUIDE
Thank you for selecting JELD-WEN products. Attached are JELD-WEN’s recommended installation instructions for all types of Wood Interior Door Slabs including Molded, Flush, Premium Composite and Stile and Rail. Read these instructions thoroughly before beginning. They are designed to work in most existing applications; however, existing conditions may require changes to these instructions. If changes are needed, they are made at the installer’s risk. For installations other than those indicated in these instructions, contact a building professional.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Consult your local building code official for applicable building codes and regulations. Local building code requirements supersede recommended installation instructions.
NOTE TO INSTALLER: Provide a copy of these instructions to the building owner. By installing this product, you acknowledge the terms and conditions of the limited warranty as part of the terms of the sale.
Glossary
Head Jamb
The horizontal jamb across the top of the opening.
Hinge
Metal component that attaches the slab to the jamb and allows the slab to
swing open and closed.
Hinge Jamb
The side jamb the hinges are mounted in.
Hinge Leaves
The flat parts of the hinge that mount to the jamb and slab.
Hinge Pin
Pin that holds the hinge leaves together and allows them to pivot.
Hinge Route
Mortise in the jamb and slab the same profile as the corresponding hinge leaf.
Frame
A frame consists of a hinge jamb, head jamb and strike jamb. Once installed
the door slab is hung inside the frame.
Panel
Component of the slab filling the spaces between the stiles and rails. Pilot
Hole
A drilled hole that is no larger than the body of the screw (minus the
threads).
Rail
Horizontal members of the door slab.
Slab
The operating part of the door assembly that swings open and closed inside a
frame.
Stile
Vertical members of the door slab.
Stop
Component fixed to the inside the jamb that the slab closes against. Strike
Jamb
The side jamb that contains the latch strike to hold the slab closed. Please allow sufficient time to properly prepare the opening, install the slab, and ensure its proper operation.
SAFETY
- Read and fully understand ALL manufacturer’s instructions before beginning. Failure to follow proper installation instructions may result in the denial of warranty claims for operational or performance problems.
- Use safe lifting techniques.
- Wear protective gear (e.g., safety glasses, gloves, ear protection, etc.).
- Operate hand/power tools safely and follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions.
- Heed material manufacturer’s handling and application instructions.
- If disturbing existing paint, take proper precautions if lead paint is suspected (commonly used before 1979). Your regional EPA (www. epa.gov/lead) or Consumer Product Safety Commission offices provide information regarding regulations and lead protection.
WARNING
Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood.
Storage and Handling
- Deliver doors to the building site after the plaster, drywall and/or concrete are dry.
- If the doors are being stored at the job site and not for immediate installation, the top, bottom and sides must be sealed.
NOTICE
There will be an inked stamp with either “<LB, LB> or
- Hollow core doors may be more prone to warp than solid core doors. When stacking doors, keep the top door always covered with a sheet of plywood or cardboard. This is critical to prevent warping.
- Keep the doors away from direct sunlight and sources of extreme heat, cold or humidity.
- Store flat on a level surface in a clean, dry, well-ventilated building. Protect from dirt, water and abuse. Allow air circulation. Cover the top door with a moisture barrier. Do not lean the doors vertically against a wall or other structure.
- Doors should always be handled with clean hands or while wearing clean gloves.
- Doors should be lifted and carried when being moved, not dragged across one another.
- Doors should not be subjected to abnormal or sudden variations in heat, dryness or humidity, and should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Recommended humidity and temperature are 25% – 55% RH and 50°F – 90°F (10°C – 32°C).
- Doors should be stored at least 10’ away from any heat source. Excessive heat on a door creates uneven drying which results in warping, splitting, and bowing on the door surfaces.
- Doors should be climatized to the average prevailing humidity and temperature before hanging for at least 48 hours. In below-zero or extreme temperatures, doors should be stored properly in a dry building at normal room temperatures for at least 72 hours before hanging.
Finishing
-
Set-up your finishing area by making sure your work area is clean, well-lighted, dust-free, well-ventilated, out of direct sunlight and in
a climate-controlled environment. When painting and staining avoid carpeted areas, cover all areas subject to paint or stain exposure. -
Doors should acclimate to the environment where they will be installed for a minimum of 48 hours under normal room temperature conditions (72 Hours in extreme weather conditions). Avoid finishing immediately after rain or damp weather and during periods of higher-than-average humidity. In very dry conditions, the door should be finished right after the wrapping is removed. Ensure adequate airflow around all surfaces of the door when conditioning. Follow paint/stain manufacturer’s instructions noting both temperature and humidity recommendations. Remove all hardware before finishing.
-
If you must use water-based paint please apply it in light coats, in a warm dry environment. DO NOT reduce paint beyond the manufacturer’s recommendations. If you attempt to apply water-based paints in a cold or damp environment, or apply the paint in a heavy coat, the paint will take longer to dry and the water in the paint will penetrate the board, raising the grain or fibers in the substrate.
-
The use of satin or semi-gloss finish is highly recommended.
WARNING
Distortions such as warping, bowing and waviness, can appear as a result of incorrect topcoat (paints or stains), improper finishing techniques and or finishing conditions. These are caused by but are not limited to incorrect topcoat, watered down paints, high humidity environments, excessive application of paints, and doors not being acclimated properly.
For additional details reference Window & Door Manufacturers Association guidelines on how to store, handle, finish and install wood doors.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
Needed Materials
NOTE: Follow all material manufacturer’s instructions for proper use and compatibility.
- Hinges
- Wood screws: 3/4″ minimum through hinges into the slab and frame; for solid core, premium composite and stile and rail doors, 1 – 2 1/2″ through each of the top two hinges into framing.
- Wood putty/spackle
- Lock set and template
- Finishing supplies
- Masking tape (for trimming)
- 150-280 grit sandpaper
Needed Tools
- Safety glasses
- Screwdrivers
- Pencil
- Chisel or router
- Drill with bits and hole saws
- Tape measure
- Level
- Finishing tools (paint brushes, roller, spray equipment, masking tape etc.)
- Circular saw (for trimming)
- Wood plane (for trimming or beveling)
- Hammer
- Punch
1. REMOVE PACKAGING AND INSPECT SLAB
- Remove shipping materials such as corner covers, shipping blocks or pads.
- Inspect slab for cosmetic damage, squareness and warp.
- Verify it is the correct product (size, color, design, handing, etc.).
If any of the above conditions represent a concern, do not install the slab. Contact the supplier for recommendations.
2. INSPECT EXISTING JAMB
- Existing jamb should be 3/16″ wider than the slab and at least 3/8″ taller. There should be enough distance between the jamb edge and the stop to accommodate the thickness of the slab.
- Verify the existing jamb is square. The (A) and (B) measurements should be the same. Maximum allowable deviation from square is 1/8″.
- Verify the rough opening is plumb (C, E and D). The maximum allowable deviation is 1/8″.
Verify Square, Level and Plumb
- The opening floor or sill must be flat and level (not be crowned or sagged) (D).
- The face of the rough opening must be in a single plane (E) with less than 1/8″ twist from corner to corner.
- DO NOT install the slab unless the jamb meets the above conditions. Professional assistance may be necessary to correct any problems before installation.
For Retrofit Installations
For retrofit installations remove the old door and contact your local waste management entities for proper disposal or recycling of products being removed.
3. TITLELL SLAB
IMPORTANT: The door slab should be finished (painted or stained) on all six sides with an equal number of coats after all routing, trimming, boring and touch-ups have been completed.
NOTE: If hinges are already installed on the slab, DO NOT remove hinges for finishing. Failure to finish on all six sides and install into a square, level and plumb condition could result in denial of warranty claims for operational or performance problems. See our finishing document at www.jeld- wen.com for finishing requirements and details.
Prepare Jambs and Slab
1. Measure the existing frame (not the stop) from floor to head and from side
to side in several places to verify the slab will fit. The frame should be
3/16″ wider
than the slab (1/16″ clearance on the hinge jamb and 1/8″ Frame clearance on
the strike jamb) and tall enough (usually 3/8″-1/2″ taller) to allow 1/8″
clearance on the head jamb and allow the slab Stop to operate without rubbing
on any flooring.
NOTICE
Trimming any other type of slab is NOT recommended.
2. A hollow or solid core molded and flush slab can be trimmed, if needed. A maximum of 1/4″ can be trimmed from each edge. For the best appearance, trim an equal amount from opposite sides. To minimize chipping, stick masking tape along the cut line to each face of the slab. Make the cuts with a fine-toothed circular saw (height) and wood plane (width). Trimming beveled edges may require re-beveling.
3. The latch stile/edge
may have a pre-cut Stop 2˚ or 3˚ bevel. This bevel maintains a 1/8″ Bevel clearance between the strike jamb and latch stile/edge, improving the fit when the Slab slab is closed. If the latch stile/edge is not beveled, and a bevel is preferred, use a wood plane or fine-toothed saw to cut a bevel so that the slab face that rests against the stop becomes slightly narrower than the opposite face.
Test Slab Fit in Jambs
Before installing any hardware, fit the slab into the frame and verify it will fit properly. Looking at the hinge side of the slab when it is closed, there should be a min. of 1/16″ and a min. of 1/8″ between the slab and the head and strike jamb.
Lock Block Identification
NOTICE
Markings indicate the top edge and which side of the slab should be positioned towards the strike jamb.
If installing a hollow core door that does not have a lock set hole, refer to
the top edge of the door. There will be an inked stamp with either “<LB, LB>
or
Lock Block Locations
Install Hinges
NOTICE
Three hinges are recommended for slabs up to 84″ in height and four hinges for slabs over 84″.
1. If re-using the existing frame, verify the existing hinge locations are plumb, or all in a straight line vertically. Position the new hinges in the existing locations and modify the hinge routes as necessary. Match the slab to the jambs using the following instructions (skip to step 3).
2. If installing a new frame, measure down from the underside of the head jamb 7″ to position the top of the top hinge. Measure up from the bottom of the slab 10″ to position the bottom of the bottom hinge. Place the middle hinge halfway in between.
3. When marking the slab for hinges, make sure the measurement from the top of the slab to the top of the hinge route is 1/8″ smaller than the distance from the head jamb to the top of the top hinge. This will allow 1/8″ gap between the slab and head jamb.
4. When marking the slab, the distance from the inside face to the back of the hinge route should be 1/16″ less than the depth of the hinge route on the hinge jamb.
5. Using a template, mark the hinge jambs and slab where the hinges Stop will be mounted. Using a chisel or router, notch the jamb and slab for the outline of the hinge leaves and no deeper than the thickness of the leaves.
6. Using the hinge as a template, mark screw hole locations and drill pilot holes for all screws. If possible, it may be easier to remove the hinge pin to separate the hinge leaves. Use a hammer and a punch to drive the pin from the open end. Install the hinge leaves separately on the jambs and slab (we recommend using a hand screwdriver when installing screws into the slab to prevent stripping). Then, hang the slab in the frame by aligning the hinge leaves and re-install the hinge pins.
4. COMPLETE INSTALLATION
Install Lock Set and Finish Installation
1. The center of the hole for the lock set is usually 36″ from the bottom edge of the slab and either 2 3/8″ or 2 3/4″ on-center from the latch edge, depending on the lock set. For slabs that have a rail (horizontal member) across the center of the slab, the lock set should be centered on this rail.
Generally, a 2 1/8″ diameter hole is needed for the lock set. Drill a 1″ latch hole through the edge of the slab into the center of the lock hole to accommodate the latch for the lock. Some latches have a radius (rounded corners) or rectangular face plate that will require the slab edge to be chiseled for fit. Drill pilot holes for attachment screws. Other latches are round (contractor drive-in) and can be tapped into place with a hammer.
2. Close the slab and check for proper operation. Adjust as necessary.
3. Finish all surfaces of the slab if not already done.
4. If installing a solid core, premium composite or stile and rail slab,
install a #9 x 2 1/2″ screw in the center hole (as shown) in the top two
hinges (through the leaves toward the jamb).
Specifications:
- Product: Interior Door Slabs (JII110)
- Material: Wood
- Finish: Unfinished
- Dimensions: Standard door size
Please visit jeld-wen.com for warranty and care and
maintenance information.
Thank you for choosing
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licensed to JELD-WEN, Inc. or its affiliates or third parties, and are
protected by copyright, trademark, and other laws. Unauthorized use or
duplication is prohibited. JELD-WEN reserves the right to change product
specifications without notice. Please visit our website at jeld-wen.com for
current information.
All rights reserved
FAQ:
Q: Should I finish the door slab before installation?
A: Yes, it is recommended to finish the door slab on all six sides before installation to prevent potential distortions and ensure warranty coverage.
Q: What should I do if I notice warping or bowing in the door slab?
A: If you notice distortions in the door slab, do not proceed with installation. Contact the supplier for guidance on how to address these issues.
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>