UNDERFLOOR V0922 Heating World Instructions

UNDERFLOOR V0922 Heating World

Welcome To Underfloor Heating Worldwww.underfloorheatingworld.co.uk.
Underfloor Heating World underfloor heating systems are suitable for use under virtually any type of floor covering. They can also be used as a primary heat source, with no radiators required, or for just floor warming (this assumes sufficient coverage and insulation is installed). For further information on all underfloor heating systems and ancillary products please visit www.underfloorheatingworld.co.uk.

Frequently Asked Questions.

• Can I use this as a primary heat source; do I still need radiators?
  All our underfloor heating systems have been designed to be suitable for use as the primary heat source (no radiators required). This is providing you install a minimum of 150w/m2 system over 70%+ of the floor area. Also, the floor and room must have suitable insulation levels which will then mean no additional heating will be required.

• Can I cut the cable or mat if I have too much?
  When considering what size system you require it is important not to over- order as the heating cannot be cut down to fit. A good rule of thumb is to order approximately 80% of the total floor area. This will allow you to easily fit the heating system leaving only a small unheated border around the room edge. The heating cable must never be cut or reduced in length.

• Do I need insulation? How long will it take to warm up?
  Although not always a necessity over wood subfloors, insulation will still greatly increase the response rate and overall efficiency of all underfloor heating systems. When installing heating over a concrete subfloor suitable insulation must be installed as uninsulated concrete will drain the heat downward away from the heating system. The table opposite shows some approximate timings.

• Is underfloor heating expensive to run?
  Underfloor heating is the most efficient way to heat an area due to the large area and even heat distribution from the floor up. This helps to keep the heat at a low, effective and usable level. Studies have shown that when a person’s feet are warm they perceive the environment to be warmer than when their feet are cold. Because of this, the ambient temperature of the room can then be lowered without the person feeling cold which reduces the running cost of the heating but still provides the occupant with a more consistent and comfortable heat distribution.

• Can I fit the heating and will it require maintenance?
  Electric underfloor heating does not require any specialist labour or equipment to install or maintain the system (other than a qualified electrician to make the final connections to the main power). With a little patience and common sense most competent DIY enthusiasts would be able to install our underfloor heating systems with ease. Unlike other forms of heating, electric underfloor heating requires no maintenance once installed. With no moving parts, no excessive heat or leaks to consider, once installed and protected by the floor covering our underfloor heating systems are designed to provide a lifetime of hassle-free heating.

• How do you control the heating?
  All our underfloor heating systems must be controlled with a suitable thermostat. There are various thermostat options but all options control the heating through the same principle. Mains 220-240v power is fed through the thermostat or snubber to the heating system as and when heat is needed. The user will set a desired temperature and the thermostat will switch the power on and off according to the heating system as and when needed to achieve and maintain the set temperature.

Thermostats.
All our thermostats are suitable for use with all Underfloor Heating World heating systems. Our thermostats are rated to switch a maximum of 15 amp or 16 amp loads, (please see individual thermostat ratings for exact maximum loads). If larger heating loads are being installed, either additional thermostats or a snubber switch (sometimes known as a relay or contactor) should be installed to carry large loads. Examples of our thermostats are below.

Impact Plus Thermal Insulation

Impact plus thermal insulation is designed for use directly under wood, laminate and carpet-type floors.

Impact Plus insulation is 6mm in depth and comes in 0.8m & 1m wide rolls x the length you require. The next steps are listed to help guide you through the installation process. Please note that tiles or stone flooring is not suitable for this insulation. If tiles or stone are to be fitted then hard insulation, (HIB) or cementitious tile backer boards (CEM) should be used. Please refer to HIB and CEM instructions within this guide.

1. The sub-floor, whether concrete or wood should be made suitable for the chosen floor covering before any insulation is fitted. The sheets are designed to provide increased insulation levels, not structural rigidity or floor levelling.

2. Make sure the floor is clean, dust and debris-free. Start by using either a double-sided tape or spray contact adhesive on the floor area where insulation is to be laid. You only require sufficient adhesive/tape to hold the insulation in place while the floor covering is being fitted. In small areas, the insulation can simply be laid loose over the floor and held in place with small weights.

3. Working in manageable-sized areas, lay the insulation over the floor area. Each run should be butted together \and edges taped together if needed. The insulation can be cut using a sharp Stanley knife or scissors neatly around the edge of the room making sure to achieve a full floor coverage.

4. Once the insulation is fitted the heating mats and floor probe can be fitted directly onto the insulation. See Alu Foil Fitting instructions.

5. 5A: Wood & Laminate Flooring (See Fig 1 Above).
   Floating Wood and laminate floors can now be fitted directly over the heating mats and insulation. Note: we recommend removing a thin strip of insulation in door thresholds and replacing it with a 50mm x 6mm strip of MDF or PLY. This will stop point loading along the edge of the floor and also allow the floor fitter to nail or screw threshold or finishing trims to finish the floor off.

   • 5B: Carpet & Sheet Vinyl Flooring (See Fig 2 Above).
     Before fitting carpet and vinyl flooring duo overlay should be fitted over the entire floor area. It is also advisable to remove a 50mm strip of insulation around the perimeter of the room and door thresholds. This will allow a 50mm wide x 6mm deep MDF or PLY strip to be fitted in the gap left prior to fitting the duo overlay. This will provide a solid edge flush with the top of the insulation which will help the floor fitter to nail or screw the carpet gripper around the perimeter of the room. Once the duo overlay is fitted the carpet or vinyl can be fitted.

NOTE:
When fitting underlay and carpet the underlay should have a maximum tog rating of 0.8 and the carpet should have a maximum tog rating of 2.0.

Hard Insulation Boards. (HIB)

Underfloor hard thermal insulation boards (HIB) are designed for use directly under tile, stone, wood and laminate floors. It can also be used under mosaic, vinyl and carpet flooring but must first have a suitable 9+mm layer of flexible self-levelling installed over it before the vinyl or carpet is fitted. The insulation comes in 6, 10, 20 and 30mm depths. The steps below are to help guide you through the installation processes depending on what floor covering is being installed.

1. The sub-floor, whether concrete or wood, should be made suitable for the chosen floor covering, (ie tiles) before any boards are fitted. The boards are designed to provide increased insulation levels, not structural rigidity.

2. 2A: HIB Under Wood, Laminate, Carpet & Vinyl Flooring.

   • Make sure the floor is level, clean, dust and debris-free. The boards can then be laid directly over the subfloor making sure to butt the boards tightly together so as not to leave gaps between boards and around the edge of the room. This will help prevent movement and maximise the floor insulation. Once the floor is fully covered with insulation the heating mats (see ALU heating instructions in this guide) and or wood/laminate flooring can be fitted directly over the insulation boards.
   • If carpet or vinyl is to be fitted, an overlay duo must first be fitted over the insulation and heating.
   • We recommend removing a 50mm wide strip of insulation across all door thresholds and around the perimeter of the room and replacing this with a 50mm wide x depth of insulation fitted MDF or PLY strip. This will allow the floor layer to nail or screw carpet gripper or finishing trims easily across doorways and around the perimeter of the floor
   • 2B: HIB Or CEM Boards For Use Under All Other Floor Types.
     Make sure the floor is level, and clean, and dust and debris are as only then the boards can be laid. A suitable floor primer should be applied to provide a good fix for the adhesive (refer to your chosen adhesive fitting instructions).

3. Using a flexible floor tile adhesive, suitable for use with the subfloor construction, (ie wood or concrete) spread a thin full bed of adhesive over the floor. It is advisable to work in board-size areas at a time and rather than using a typical floor tiling trowel, to use a smaller notched trowel such as a 6mm notch size which will increase the coverage of adhesive per bag.

4. Once the adhesive is spread lay the insulation boards over the freshly spread adhesive using a large, rigid, flat trowel or board to press the insulation boards down flat into/onto the adhesive. Care should be taken to make sure the boards are fully pressed into the adhesive and no air pockets or gaps are left under the boards. All boards should be butted tightly together making sure to achieve a full floor coverage. It is good practice to stagger joints between boards and if necessary the flexible floor adhesive can be used to fill any small gaps or damage.

5. If boards need to be cut to size this is easily done with a sharp Stanley knife.

6. Once the boards are laid and the adhesive is set, care should be taken not to apply excessive point loads to the insulation until the tiles or levelling has been installed. Small dents and damage caused to the surface of the boards are quite normal and of no concern. If however the boards are to be left exposed for long periods or other work is to be carried out over the boards they should be covered with sheets of ply or other hard sheet material to minimise the chance of damage.

7. It is advisable to fit the final floor covering as soon as possible once the insulation has been installed. When fitting the chosen final floor covering it is advisable to work on top of a hard board. This will help prevent damage to the insulation when the work is being carried out.

8. 8A: Wood and laminate flooring. (If not following step 2A) Both underfloor heating and wood-type tongue and grove flooring can now be fitted directly over the insulation. Please also refer to the ALU heating instructions in this guide.
   8B: Tile & Stone Flooring. Tiles measuring 150x150mm or bigger can be fitted directly over the insulation and suitable heating system. A flexible tile adhesive should be used as directed by the adhesive manufacturer. The tiling should be carried out in the normal way making sure to fit the tiles with a full bed of adhesive. All heating cables must be fully encapsulated in levelling or tile adhesive, (never dot and dab tiles).
   8C: Fitting vinyl, carpet or mosaic flooring. When fitting small, thin or non-interlocking sheets, strips or tiles over the insulation boards a 9+mm layer of flexible levelling compound should first be fitted over the insulation and heating system. This will protect high-point loads. It will spread the heat from the heating cables evenly up through the floor and also provide a smooth flat surface for the subsequent layers to be fitted over. The levelling and heating should be fitted per the manufacturer’s instructions.
   NOTE: All dos and don’ts in this brochure and on our website must be followed.

CEM-Cementitious Tile Backer Boards

CEM-Cementitious Tile Backer Boards, (Walls & Floors)
Backer Board Pro is a cementitious tile backer board (CEM) designed to insulate and waterproof walls and floors. Ideal for wet room installations, the boards can be used directly under tiles & stone walls & floor coverings. The boards can also be plastered or rendered directly over to provide a watertight insulated wall.

Backer Board Pro can also be used under mosaic, vinyl and carpet flooring but must first have a 9+mm layer of flexible self-levelling installed before the vinyl or carpet being fitted. The insulation comes in 6, 10, 20 & 30mm depths. The steps below are listed to help guide you through the different installation process.

1. 1A: If you are fitting tile backer board to a floor loosely or with tile adhesive please follow the instructions for Hard Insulation Boards 2B, (HIB).
   1B: If you are screwing the boards back to a wall or floor or tanking a room please follow the instructions below.

2. The sub-floor or walls, whether concrete, wood or plasterboard, should be made suitable for the chosen covering (ie tiles) prior to any boards being fitted. The boards are designed to provide increased insulation levels, not structural rigidity.

3. Tile backer boards can be screwed to walls and floors using Backer Board Pro galvanised fixing discs. The discs must be located at a maximum of 400mm centres or closer. On a standard 1200x600mm board this equates to a minimum of 15 fixings discs per board. If the boards are to be screwed directly to stud walling the supporting studwork must be fitted at a maximum of 400mm centres or less. 6mm boards are for floor only and not suitable for walls.

4. Fit the boards to the wall or floor making sure to butt the boards tightly together to achieve maximum coverage. It is good practice to stagger joints between boards and if necessary a flexible floor adhesive can be used to fill any small gaps between boards. The boards must be fixed securely to walls and consideration given to the weight of subsequent wall coverings. On floors, the boards are not designed to bridge gaps or voids. The boards must be screwed down tight to the floor surface to avoid any bounce as this could adversely affect subsequent layers. It is also important to check all fixing discs are pulled down flush with the board surface to eliminate any high points. If the fixing discs are not flush with the board surface they could affect the ability to fit the final covering accurately and also increase the chance of damaging the underfloor heating system.

5. If boards need to be cut to size this is easily done with a sharp Stanley knife or fine tooth saw.

6. If the boards are to be used to tank a room then Backer Board Pro waterproof corners, jointing band or self-adhesive tanking tape must be applied to all joints and corners to create a watertight seal (see Backer Board Pro jointing band/tape instructions).

7. The underfloor heating system can now be fitted along with the final floor covering. It is advisable to fit the underfloor heating and final floor covering as soon as possible once the insulation has been installed.

8. Care should be taken not to apply excessive point loads to the uncovered insulation until the subsequent surfaces have been installed. Small dents and damage caused to the surface of the boards are quite normal and of no concern. When fitting the chosen final floor covering it is advisable to work on top of a protective layer such as a kneeling pad. This will help prevent damage to the insulation and heating cables when the work is being carried out. If however the boards are to be left exposed for long periods or other work is to be carried out over the boards they should be covered with sheets of ply or other hard sheet material to minimize the chance of damage.

9. 9A: Floor Tiles & Stone Coverings.
   All types of tile and stone flooring can be fitted directly over the insulation boards. A suitable flexible tile adhesive must be used as directed by the adhesive manufacturer. The tiling should be carried out in the normal way, making sure to fit the tiles with a full bed of adhesive (never dot and dab tiles). If mosaic tiles are to be fitted over the floor a scrim tape should be fitted over all insulation board joints. This should be followed by a 9mm layer of flexible levelling compound installed over the insulation before the mosaic floor tiles are laid.
   9B: Vinyl & Carpet.
   When fitting non-rigid sheet material over the insulation boards such as sheet vinyl, first a minimum 9mm layer of flexible levelling compound should be fitted over the insulation. If underfloor heating is being installed the depth of levelling should be a minimum of 6mm above the top of the cable or 9mm, whichever is the greatest depth. This will provide a flat-level protective layer for the final floor covering to be fitted over. It will also spread the heat from the underfloor heating evenly over the floor surface and spread the weight of high-point loads. The levelling should be fitted by the manufacturer’s instructions. (In high traffic or commercial areas, all board joints should also have a scrim tape applied over them before the levelling is fitted).
   9C: Wall Tiling, Plastering, Rendering.
   Tiles should be fitted in the normal way making sure to use a full bed of adhesive. The adhesive must be a suitable flexible wall adhesive and applied/mixed per the manufacturer’s instructions. The boards can also be plastered and rendered directly over.

NOTE: When fitting the boards vertically a maximum weight of 28kg per m2 can be fitted directly to the board surface.

Under Tile & Stone Heat Mats

1. The sub-floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering before laying the heating. Suitable insulation must be used over concrete and uninsulated subfloors.

2. Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating mat is a suitable size for the area. The mat size and wattage can be found on the outer box and heating mat label. The mat should also be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings should be noted down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)
   IMPORTANT If the mat is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box or mat labels within 10%, stop and return the mat for the correct size. Once the mat is unrolled over the floor it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternative size.

3. Start the heating close to the thermostat location if possible. If this is impractical the cold tail can be easily extended with a suitable electrical wire. Slowly unroll the mat, as you proceed the mat must be firmly pressed onto the floor making sure the heating element is not twisted or stressed at any point.

4. To turn the mat in any direction or return it to itself the installer can cut through the mesh backing, (DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE) to allow the mat to be redirected in any direction (See Fig 3).

5. Alternatively, if the area to be covered is an irregular shape or an obstacle has to be avoided, the heating cable can be detached from the mesh backing and laid loose. This will allow the cable to be laid in any direction and a suitable fixing tape can then be used to hold the cable in position ready for the subsequent floor covering to be installed. When laying the heating cable loose a consistent spacing between cable runs must be maintained (the same spacing as when attached to the mesh backing) to achieve an even heat output across the floor. Cables mustn’t be laid too close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cables get too close, touch or overlap at any point the cable may overheat (See Fig 3).

6. Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

7. The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. Some installers fit a second probe as a fail but probes, once fitted correctly very rarely fail. The probe must be installed between two heating wires but no closer than 20mm and no further than 30mm away from any heating cable (See Fig 4). Make sure when fitting the probe that no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card.

8. If multiple mats are to be installed all mats can be connected in parallel into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur runs to the thermostat location and is left ready to be wired in (See Fig 5).

9. The heating system must be run via a residual current device (RCD), fitted under all current electrical regulations at the time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

Loose Wire Under Tile & Stone Heating Cable

1. The sub-floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering before laying the heating. Suitable insulation must be used over concrete and uninsulated subfloors.

2. Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating cable is suitably sized for the area to be heated. Typically most domestic loose wire systems (depending upon your requirements) will be fitted with 140w-200w/m2. To work out your floor/system wattage, simply divide the heating system total wattage by the total floor area m2 to be heated. The end figure should ideally be between 140 – 200w/m2. The length of the cable and total system wattage can be found on the outer box, end of the cable and cable spools.

3. Before the cable is unrolled it must be tested for continuity and resistance. Mark this reading down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)
   IMPORTANT, If the cable is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box or cable labels within 10%, stop and return for the correct size. Once the cable is unrolled over the floor it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the cable can not be returned for an alternate size.

4. Using the figures worked out in stage 2, the spacings between cable runs are worked out by:

   • A: Divide 1000 by the length (metres) of the heating cable.
   • B: Multiply result A by the size of the area you are heating in m2.
     The final figure is the spacing in mm the cables should be spaced out at. Please note the figure should be somewhere between 50 – 80mm. This figure is a guide required for the final spacings to achieve the best coverage. The cable must NOT be cut or reduced in length. The spacings between cables are either increased to increase the heated area or reduced to reduce the heated area. Only the black cold/connection end can be reduced or lengthened if required.

5. Before the cable is unrolled and fitted it is advisable to mark the floor accurately using the results from stage 4 showing precisely where the heating cable is to be laid. This will allow the installer to accurately design the floor layout to best use the available cable making sure to keep even spacings between cable runs (See Fig 3).

6. If possible start laying the cable working away from the thermostat location. Using small tabs of fixing tape, accurately lay the cable. Do not cover the entire cable with fixing tape as will affect the performance of the adhesives or levelling to adhere to the subfloor and envelope the cable. The tape is only required to maintain a consistent spacing between cable runs until the levelling/adhesive is applied. Cables mustn’t be laid too close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cable is set too close, touched or overlapped at any point the cable may overheat.

7. Once the heating is fitted the insulation resistance, electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 3. The heating should also be tested and results recorded after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded (See Fig 2).

8. The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. The probe must be installed between two heating wires but no closer than 20mm or further than 30mm away from a heating cable, (see fig 4). Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. Some installers fit a second probe as a failsafe at this point but this is very rarely required and not a necessity.

9. If multiple cables are to be installed, all cables can be connected into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur runs to the thermostat location and is left ready to be wired in (See Fig 5).

10. The heating system must be run via a residual current device (RCD), fitted under all current electrical regulations at the time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.
    NOTE: All dos and don’ts in this brochure and on our website must be followed.

Under Laminate, Wood, Vinyl & Carpet Aluminium Foil Heating (ALU)

1. The sub-floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. Impact Plus 6mm insulation or hard insulation boards must then be installed over the sub-floor prior to fitting the heating (see insulation fitting instruction pages).

2. Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the room or area. Once measured make sure the heating mat is a suitable size for the area. The mat size and wattage can be found on the outer box and heating mat. The mat should also be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings should be noted down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2).
   IMPORTANT  if the mat is incorrectly sized for the area/room or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box or mat label within 10%, stop and return the mat for the correct size. Once the mat is unrolled it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternate size.

3. Start the heating as close to the thermostat location as possible. If this is impractical the heating mat cold tail can be easily extended with a suitable electrical cable. Slowly unroll the mat using the cloth/gaffa tape to hold the mat in place were necessary. All exposed heating cables (see fig 3) must be covered with the foil tape provided. As you proceed, the mat must be laid flat making sure the heating element is not twisted or stressed at any point.

4. To turn the mat in any direction or turn it back on itself the installer can cut through the mesh/foil backing (DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE) to allow the mat to be redirected in any direction (See Fig 3). Alternatively, if the area to be covered is an irregular shape or an obstacle has to be avoided the mat can be cut several times into strips (the cable must never be detached from its foil casing.) This will allow the thin strips of cable enveloped in the foil to be laid in any direction or in small areas. The foil tape must then be used to cover any exposed wire and join all strips and mat runs together. Overlap the foil tape onto the heating mat by a minimum of 10mm to make sure all exposed cable is fully covered. Exposed wire can cause hot spots and also disrupt the earthing continuity between heating sections. Cables mustn’t be laid too close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cables get too close, touch or overlap at any point the cable may overheat (See Fig 3).

5. Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

6. The floor probe supplied with the thermostat must now be fitted. The insulation board should be scored to create a groove to accept the floor probe (See Fig 4), and taped in place (DO NOT TAPE OVER END OF PROBE). The probe must be installed under the foil and between two heating wires no closer than 20mm but no further than 30mm away from any heating cable. Make sure when fitting the probe, that no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. When heating wood, laminate or other floor coverings, the manufacturer’s recommended maximum floor temperature should be programmed into the thermostat. The thermostat must also be set to regulate floor temperature only, NOT air temperature. Although not a necessity it is a good practice to fit a second probe at this point as a backup.

7. If multiple mats are to be installed all mats can be connected into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur runs to the thermostat location and is left ready to be wired in (See Fig 5).

NOTE: All dos and don’ts in this brochure and on our website must be followed.

In-Screed Heating Cable

In-Screed Heating Cable (for all floor coverings)

1. The sub-floor must be clean, sound and fully insulated with a suitable insulation. The subfloor needs to be made ready to receive the screed covering before the heating cable being installed.

2. Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating cable is suitably sized for the area to be heated. Typically most domestic in-screed floors (depending upon your requirements) will be fitted with 160w-220w/m2. To work out your floor/system wattage, simply divide the heating system’s total wattage by the total floor area to be heated in m2. The end figure should be between 160 – 220w/m2. The length of the cable and total wattage can be found on the outer box or heating cable.

3. Before the cable is unrolled it must be tested for continuity and resistance. Mark this reading down on the back warranty page of this manual (See Fig 2).
   IMPORTANT  if the cable is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box or cable labels within 10%, stop and return for the correct size. Once the cable is unrolled it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the cable can not be returned for an alternative size).

4. Using the figures worked out in stage 2, the spacings between cable runs are worked out by:

   • A: Divide 1000 by the length (metres) of the heating cable.
     B: Multiply result A by the size of the area you are heating in m2. The final figure is the spacing in mm the cables should be spaced out at.
     Please note: the figure should be somewhere between 70 – 110mm. This figure is a guide and small adjustments may be required to the final spacings to achieve the best coverage. The cable must NOT be cut or reduced in length. The spacings between cables are either increased to increase the heated area or reduced to reduce the heated area. The black cold/connection ends can be reduced or lengthened if required (See Fig 3)

5. Before the cable is unrolled and fitted it is advised to mark the floor accurately showing precisely where the heating cable is to be laid. This will allow the installer to accurately design the floor layout to best use the available cable making sure to keep even spacings between cable runs (See Fig 3).

6. If possible, start laying the cable away from the thermostat location using small tabs of fixing tape or fixing clips to accurately lay the cable. It is inadvisable to cover the entire cable with fixing tape as this will affect the screed’s ability to fully envelope the cable. The tape is only required to maintain a consistent spacing between cable runs to achieve an even floor covering until the screed is applied over. Cables mustn’t be laid too close together. A minimum of 60mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cable is set too close, touches or overlaps at any point the cable may overheat.

7. Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 3. The heating should also be tested after the screed has been laid. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the covering screed has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

8. The floor probe supplied with the thermostat must now be fitted. The probe must be installed between two heating wires but no more than 40mm away or closer than 30mm from any one cable (see fig 4). Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. A second probe can also be fitted at this point as a backup but this is not a necessity.

9. If multiple cables are to be installed all cables can be connected into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur runs to the thermostat location and is left ready to be wired in (See Fig 5).

10. The heating system is now ready to have either a flexible 20-70mm self-levelling compound or screed installed per the manufacturer’s instructions. The heating must be run via a residual current device (RCD) and connected to the mains power under all current electrical regulations at the time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

NOTE: All dos and don’ts in this brochure and on our website must be followed.

Warranty Card

Terms and Conditions

• Underfloor Heating World provides a limited warranty on all heating systems (see website for details).
• In the case of a defective heating mat supplied by Underfloor Heating World, Underfloor Heating World will either repair or replace the defective heating mat.
• Faults caused by incorrect installation or fitting procedure, misuse or damage caused by others, will not be covered under this warranty. This warranty does not cover installations completed by unqualified electricians.
• Under no circumstances is Underfloor Heating World liable for any consequential damages or losses (materials or monetary) associated with the underfloor heating system.
• To complete and activate the warranty your electrician must fill in all details on the form below during each stage when fitting the heating system. Once completed log onto www.underfloorheatingworld.co.uk and click on warranty registration. Transfer the information recorded on this form below onto the online warranty and click submit.

NOTE
Please use and attach separate sheets if multiple systems are being installed formatted as above.

PLEASE RETAIN THIS FORM WITH YOUR UNDERFLOOR HEATING SYSTEM
To activate your free warranty log onto www.underfloorheatingworld.co.uk /warranty-registration within 3 months of purchase and 30 days of installation date and complete the online form.

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