ZAPCO STXDSP2021 Studio Series DSP Amplifiers Owner’s Manual
- June 4, 2024
- ZAPCO
Table of Contents
- MISSION STATEMENT
- A new level of Sound Quality
- Before you start your installation
- Planning your power connections
- Wire Size
- Mounting your ST-X DSP amplifier
- Speaker Wiring of the ST-X DSP Amplifiers
- The ST-X DSP GUI Program
- Tuning – The Simple Rules
- Technical Specifications
- References
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
STXDSP2021 Studio Series DSP Amplifiers
Owner’s Manual
MISSION STATEMENT
Committed to Excellence
ZAPCO is dedicated to the pursuit of audio fidelity. Our prime objectives are
to design and manufacture audio products of unsurpassed quality, to provide
unparalleled support and service for these products, and to conduct business
in a manner that will enhance the quality of life for all involved.
Experience
(Knowledge from doing)
There is absolutely no substitute for experience; that is a simple fact of
life.
Another simple fact is that ZAPCO has, for over forty years, been the leader
in defining quality standards for the car audio industry.
These years of experience have led to a thorough understanding of the
challenges that are unique to the world of car audio. ZAPCO’s relentless quest
for sonic purity consistently yields imaginative designs that utilize the most
innovative technologies. The resulting products set the criteria by which all
others in the industry are judged.
A new level of Sound Quality
Zapco has a reputation for sound quality that is unsurpassed. It is our
dedication to sonic purity and our passion for performance that built that
reputation. With all the new amplifiers coming into the market, none has been
any threat to Zapco’s standing as the premiere amp and processor company for
pure sound quality.
Just check out the audio competition scene. The pros know what to use to win.
Competition amps, however, do not come cheap, and not everyone wants to
compete. The challenge then was to put Zapco’s 40-plus years of experience to
use in the development of an amplifier that would bring Zapco sound a line of
products for everyday use and that everyone could afford. And the studio line
is just that amplifier. In the time it has been out it has built a reputation
as the best-sounding amp in the class.
Of course, not everyone buys strictly by sound (although they should). Maybe
it’s the wrong color, maybe it’s too big… or too small. But one thing is
constant. Everyone who hears the studio amps agrees; it sounds better than any
other product in the class.
History of the Studio Series
Perfection cannot be achieved. But that does not make its pursuit less
valuable.
Zapco is committed to making every product we make better than the last.
We introduced the ST-X amps in 2013. In 2015 we improved the PCB design and
upgraded components to make the sonically improved ST-X II. For 2018 we
developed of the Studio X SQ amplifier to take affordable sound quality to a
new level. We added the proprietary RCA connectors from the Z-LX amplifiers,
changed the capacitors to a higher-end audio cap, and made a few other small
changes. All this takes to take the Studio sound to a new level of sonic
performance for an affordable amplifier.
For 2019, we brought digital processing to the studio line in DSP/AMPs that
can be controlled by PC or by iOS or Android mobile apps.
For 2021 we have upgraded the ST- DSP with new features and functions to improve your listening experience. And developed a new fan-cooled aluminum heat sink for improved efficiency and reliability under extreme temperatures and hard play.
History of the Studio Series
Perfection cannot be achieved. But that does not make its pursuit less
valuable.
Zapco is committed to making every product we make better than the last.
We introduced the ST-X amps in 2013. In 2015 we improved the PCB design and
upgraded components to make the sonically improved ST-X II.
For 2018 we developed the Studio X SQ amplifier to take affordable sound
quality to a new level. We added the proprietary RCA connectors from the Z-LX
amplifiers, changed the capacitors to a higher-end audio cap, and made a few
other small changes. All this takes to take the Studio sound to a new level of
sonic performance for an affordable amplifier.
For 2019, we brought digital processing to the studio line in DSP/AMPs that
can be controlled by PC or by iOS or Android mobile apps.
For 2021 we have upgraded the ST-DSP with new features and functions to
improve your listening experience. And developed a new fan-cooled aluminum
heat sink for improved efficiency and reliability under extreme temperatures
and hard play.
Main features of the Studio-X DSP amplifiers
- 4-Ch or 6-Ch Full Range, Class A/B Amplifier
- On-Board, Full Function, 8-Ch Digital Signal Processing
- High-pass and low-pass filters
- Signal Delay
- Phase (Polarity) control
- 15 channels of parametric equalization on each channel
- Optional BT Streaming (Bluetooth Port for external APTX HD Module)
- And of course, Zapco sound quality
New for 2021
- Analog input level controls with 2-stage clip indicators for accurate, distortion-free gain settings
- Toslink Optical input for both the models
- 6-Channel speaker-level input connections
- New high-efficiency finned heat sink with fan cooling
- Both models have an 8-Ch digital processor to provide processed outputs for external amplifiers
Before you start your installation
ZAPCO highly recommends that a fuse or circuit breaker be placed within 18″ of
the battery. Although you will add a fuse or fuse block near the amplifier it
is still a possibility that a pinched power wire between the component fuse
and the battery could result in a short or even a fire. The protection device
should be placed where it can be accessed easily and all wiring should be
routed safely and correctly according to the following guidelines:
Do not run wiring close to hot or spinning objects.
Always use wire grommets when routing wire through the firewall or any other
metal panels.
Make sure that the potential for pinched wiring is avoided by routing all
wires away from moving hinges and seats. This also includes brake, gas and
clutch pedals, hood and trunk hinges, etc.
Continuous exposure to excessive sound pressure levels may cause permanent
hearing loss. ZAPCO strongly advises that you use common sense when setting
volume levels. If you experience ringing in the ears, it could cause permanent
hearing damage!
When connecting our amplifiers to pre-wired stock speakers, care must be taken
that there are no common connections between left and right speaker wires,
i.e. two or more speakers using the same ground connection (very common in
pre-85 cars), as this will cause the amplifier to go into immediate protection
or may cause damage to the amplifier. Output connections are not common
chassis ground. Please follow the hookup instructions in this owner’s manual.
Any questions should be directed to your local ZAPCO dealer.
Upgrading a Factory Stereo
If you are upgrading a factory stereo the ST-X DSP amps have a separate
speaker level input plug that senses current, so you do not need to run a
turn-on wire. However, auto- on is not useful in all cars as the amplifier can
come on when you do not want it on, because of the car’s electrical system.
The ST-X DSP amps have a switch that allows you to defeat the auto-on if you
find you do not want to use that function.
Planning your power connections
The power end plates of the Zapco ST-X DSP amplifiers carry the power
connections and the speaker connections and vary somewhat by the number of
channels.
For example, the power end of the ST-4X DSP below has (of course) speaker
connections for four channels. The ST-X DSP amps all have onboard fuses and
the fuse rating as printed above the fuses. The main 12-volt power input, the
12-volt turn-on wire, and the main Ground connection are common to both
models.
- The large connection at the interior of the end plate is the main power input. This must be connected to the vehicle battery’s positive (+) terminal, and a main system fuse should be placed close to the battery
- The large connection at the outside of the end plate is the main ground or negative connection. This must be securely attached to bare metal at the vehicle frame, or another heavy chassis component with a direct connection to the frame
Note: Seat bolts and seat belt bolts are NOT good ground points
- The small terminal between the main power and ground is the +12 turn-on input and can be connected to the head unit turn-on output wire.
If none is available it can be connected to an accessory (ACC) terminal.
You should avoid using any ignition-on (IGN) wire, as they can be noisy
Note: The ST-X DSP amplifiers have terminals that do not require connectors. You simply insert a bare portion of wire and tighten the connection with the supplied Hex tool. As the wire conforms to the connector the connection can loosen. You should re-tighten the connection after about a week.
Some words about Power and Ground
Note: The second most common cause of underperforming amplifiers is
insufficient to power current or a pour power connection. The most common
cause of underperforming amplifiers is insufficient ground current or a bad
ground connection.
12-volt current: Battery Power works only if it travels in a complete circuit
from the battery positive terminal to the battery negative terminal. The main
power input, of course, is attached to the battery-positive terminal. Ground
current is returned to the battery through the chassis to the point where the
battery is grounded.
The current available for your amplifier to use to produce power will be
restricted by the smallest gauge of wire in the circuit and by the weakest
physical connection in the circuit.
Wire Size
It’s often surprising how many people will obsess about signal wire but
routinely provide the amplifier with only a fraction of the current it needs
to do its job.
The most common wire gauge used in car audio is 10-gauge, and the most common
location for amplifiers is in the trunk.
Wire Sizing Chart
0-20 amps
20-35 amps
35-50 amps
50-60 amps
65-85 amps
85 -105amps
105-125 amps
125-150 amps
Let’s look at a fairly small system. If you use a 50 watt/ch amp (25 amps) for
the highs and a 100 watt/ch amp (40 amps) for the woofers, you need at least a
4-gauge and maybe a 2-Guage wire to provide 65 amps at the trunk.
Anything less and your car won’t go boom. It’ll just go Blap!
Note: It takes lots of currents to make lots of power!
Remember! An electrical circuit is just that… a complete circuit. For the current to travel, you must complete the circuit from the positive terminal to the negative terminal (which is connected to the vehicle frame). So whatever Gauge wire you use for power (B+) you must also use for ground (B-).
Note: A 4-gauge power wire needs a 4-gauge ground wire!
Use the Wire Sizing Chart! Add up the fuse values on the amplifier(s) then
choose the proper size wire based on the distance from the car battery to the
amplifier location. Again, always use the same gauge wire for the main ground
as you do for the main power. Always make your ground as short as possible and
secure it to a clean solid surface, preferably the vehicle frame.
Mounting your ST-X DSP amplifier
Mounting your Zapco amplifier is easy. Just keep in mind a few guidelines:
- The amplifier can be mounted in any direction, on wood, metal, or carpet
- The metal chassis of the amp can be grounded or left isolated
- The amplifier requires adequate ventilation. Creating power creates heat, and cooling requires air. Position the amplifier with the sufficient surrounding area for air supply and keep the end plates clear for future access
- Keep the amplifier out of the engine compartment or other locations that may cause excessive heat or moisture
- Do not mount the amplifier to a subwoofer box or other place that may have excessive vibration
Setting Input Gains: Gain pots are not volume controls. Before you first turn on your system, you should make sure all gain controls are set to a minimum (counterclockwise). After the system is installed and all components are connected; play a loud track with your head unit at 3/4 to 7/8 volume. While watching the 2stage clip LEDs… turn the input gain controls up on the channels you are using for input until the channel’s LED indicators turn from green to red, then back off just slightly. If you reach a volume that you consider too loud before you see the red LED, that’s OK too. Leave the controls at that level. After you have set the controls just watch them through the rest of the song to be sure the red clip lights don’t come back on.
ST-4X DSP Input/Controls Ends
The ST-4X DSP is a 4-Channel amplifier with onboard Digital processing. The input functions are described below:
- 4 Channels (1/2 and 3/4) of RCA level inputs for the internal amplifier
- 4 Channels (5/6 and 7/8) of processed RCA outputs for external amplifiers
- High-level OEM input plug
- USB Port for the PC control connection
- Auto turn-on Switch to turn the system on by signal sensing
- Toslink Port for digital input
- Comm Port for expansion
- Analog input gain controls with clip indicators
OEM Speaker level Input plug
ST-6X DSP Input/Controls Ends
The ST-6X DSP is a 6-Channel amplifier with onboard Digital processing. The input functions are described below:
- The ST-6X DSP has RCA inputs for 6-channels
- The processed RCA outputs let you run an active 3-way system and still have an output for a sub amp
- The 6X DSP has 6 channels of high-level input
- USB port for the PC control connection
- Auto-on Switch to turn the system on by signal sensing
- The Toslink connector provides a SPDIF digital input
- Comm Port for expansion
- Analog input level (gain) controls with 2-stage Clipping indicators
Speaker Wiring of the ST-X DSP Amplifiers
The Very Basics
-
No speaker wires can be shorted to, or touch either ground or each other.
This will put the amp into protect and may damage the amplifier -
When bridging the left and right channels of any ST-X DSP amplifier, you use the left channel (Ch1) positive and the right channel (Ch2) negative, as indicated on the chassis by the speaker terminals
NOTE: If you bridge channels be sure to make all adjustments identical between bridged channels
The ST-X DSP GUI Program
Before beginning the setup be sure all signal sources are turned fully down
so there is no volume until after the crossovers are set.
The control program (GUI) for the ST-X DSP amplifiers is the same functionally
for both the 4-Ch ST-4X DSP and the 6-Ch ST-6X DSP except for the number of
channels. Both will have a default system in the channel designation column
but since you have complete control over all functions, you can use all
channels as they best suit your individual system.
Loading the GUI
Download the GUI (Graphic User Interface) from www.zapco.com > Downloads, if
you have not already done that, and load the GUI from the .exe file.
Connecting the PC: Connect the PC to the ST-X DSP amp using the supplied USB
cable. NOTE: The ST-X DSP GUI is very forgiving about PC Screen resolution.
However, the ideal resolution is 1600 x 900 optimal on most PCs.
Working with the GUI
Navigation bar: At the very top of the Screen you will find the Navigation
bar.
At the left is the connection indicator. When you open the program while you
are connected to the DSP it will automatically link so you can use the GUI.
If the connection is lost it will show Not Linked so you can check the
connections.
Next is Channel Setup, which is where you will tell the program what inputs and outputs you are using.
To begin you need to define your system. Fixed 2-Ch inputs (Toslink and
Digital BT) will apply left channel information to all odd number output
channels and right channel information to all even-numbered output channels.
The analog input is for Aftermarket head units and OEM (factory) head unit
adaptions.
These can be 2-Ch, 4-Ch, or 6-Ch RCA inputs. There are also 4-Ch of speaker-
level inputs for OEM Integration. The SUM button will combine highs and lows
from a 2-way factory system to make a single full-range signal for
processing.
The Custom/Sum lets you determine your configuration. After you have chosen
your input you can move on using the GUI.
Save, lets you save to a file on the PC or to a preset in the Processor. After you spend valuable time setting up and tuning the system, you won’t want to lose the setup, so you always want to save your setup to one of the available presets. And for a backup and to keep extra presets you should save all your setup and tunes to a file on your PC.
When you Save to File you will be taken to a folder on the PC so you can
choose a name for the tune and click Save.
Load, of course, works just the opposite. Click load from file and you will go
to the same folder, pick the desired preset, and click Open.
At the right side of the Navigation, bar is the setting button. This will only
be used if there is a firmware upgrade at some future point in time.
The Main GUI Screen
The main screen has upper and lower sections. The upper section is where all
the original system setup will take place, while the lower section contains
the equalization controls and the frequency graph.
Delay: At the left of the main GUI Screen is the Delay section. Since you can
not sit directly in the center of the car, the program can delay the arrival
time of near speakers so it will sound as though you are right in the middle
of the car.
Setting delay is quite straightforward. The purpose is to make every speaker
the same distance from you, so you are in the middle.
a. Measure the distance between each speaker and where your ears will be in
the actual listening position.
b. Identify the farthest speaker.
c. Add distance to each of the other speakers so that ALL speakers have the
same distance. You do this by subtracting each of the shorter speaker
distances from the longest (see example below).
In this example, the longer speaker distance is 70” so we subtract each of the
other speakers from 70 and enter the results in the Delay chart.
After you have entered the distances in cm or inch you can click ms to see the
delay in milliseconds.
The next section holds the Channel Selection and Crossover.
You can select a channel to tune by clicking on the desired speaker in the car
diagram/Delay section or by clicking on its box in the DSP Channel column. You
can pick channels on at a time or you can pick them by pair. Double-clicking
the dot between a pair of channels links that pair. Similarly, if one channel
is already chosen and active, then clicking on the dot will pair them.
This is important as you should always set crossovers by channel pair so the
left and right speakers will be the same. It is also easiest to do initial
equalization by channel pair.
Each channel has a High Pass (HP) and a Low Pass (LP) filter. You can control
the frequencies of the filters by highlighting the FREQ box and typing in a
value or by using the keyboard up/down arrows. You can choose the Shape of the
crossover from Butterworth, Linkwitz-Riley, or Bessel and the Slope using the
drop-down menus. The default crossovers are all 24dB/Octave Linkwitz-Riley.
The best source for information on the proper crossovers for your own speakers
is the speaker maker. He can tell you what crossover to use and also how much
power the speakers can handle at different slopes and frequencies.
Phase/Level: The next section is for adjusting levels and checking Polarity to be sure all speakers are in phase with each other.
There are a number of systems for checking the System Phase. If the system’s
speakers are not all in phase there will be issues you can not fix by tuning.
You can see the section on System Phasing to see one method of Phase
checking.
The MUTE buttons allow you to turn off any speakers that you do not want to
hear while you are tuning other speakers.
You will also find a master level control here and a system MUTE button.
Equalizer: The lower section of the GUI is devoted to equalization.
Here are 15 bands of parametric equalization for each output channel and you
can vary Frequency, Gain, and Q (the shape of the adjustment) for each band in
several ways.
Frequency: Each band is numbered. You can simply click on a band button and
drag it to where you want it. When you click on a band there is a “Heads-up
display” of the frequency, gain, and Q of the band. Any band that has been
adjusted from 0dB is highlighted by the green dot under the band’s slider.
Band # shows in Red, as do the Gain, Freq, and Q. The green squares show the width (Q) of the filter.
You can click into the Gain or Q value box of any band and adjust using the up/down arrow keys.
Gain: Gain can be adjusted by using the up/down arrows when the band’s EQ dot
is highlighted. You can also click into the gain or Q rows of any band and
adjust with the up/down arrows. You can move from one band to the next with
the right/Left keyboard arrows.
Q Setting: Q can be set as above using the keyboard arrows. You can also make
rough adjustments by dragging one of the green boxes in the EQ graph to make Q
wider or narrower to affect a smaller or larger group of frequencies with your
EQ adjustment.
To aid the tuning process you can temporarily bypass a channel’s equalization.
You can also the reset function to reset one channel or to reset all channels
to default positions with no equalization.
System Phasing: Before you start the equalization you want to be sure the
system is phased properly. Below we offer one system to help you phase the
system.
You were promised more on polarity. Before equalization, you should assure
that all speakers are in phase as a system at the listening position. All
speakers need to have the same polarity so they move in the same direction at
the same time. If they are not, you will not be able to get a proper tune.
There are a number of methods for doing this. We offer one.
Tweeters: (A) Mute all speakers except the tweeters and play a high
female vocal soloist. You should hear the voice at a single point near the
upper middle of the windshield. If the speakers are out of phase the voice
will not be localized but will seem to come from everywhere. To test, using
the Phase buttons, change the phase of the right speaker and listen for the
difference. Do this a couple of times as needed. The position that puts the
voice in a small single location on the window is the correct phase. (B) Note
where the Tweeter center is located. It should be just slightly above and to
the left of the center of the windshield (for left-hand drive cars). If it is
off to the opposite side of the center or too far to the left, and if you have
measured correctly, then you have a gain difference and you can correct it by
a slight level adjustment reduce the right tweeter to bring it left or reduce
the left channel to take it right. No more than 1dB or 2dB. Now the tweeters
are set. From here on out you cannot change the levels or phase of either
tweeter.
Mids, Mid-bass (woofers), and subs: Now mute the tweeters and unmute the
midranges. The process is the same for each pair of speakers. The sound should
come from a single focused point near the center of the windshield. For
midranges and larger drivers, you want to use a deeper male vocal. The larger
drivers are much easier to tell the differences between in-phase and out-of-
phase. Also, with the larger speakers, you will hear a dramatic reduction of
bass if the speakers are out of phase. So, for midrange and larger speakers
you will look for a focused sound source in the windshield with stronger bass.
NOTE: Once each channel pair is adjusted, they cannot be separated. Any
change of phase must be done by the pair.
Phasing the pairs: Again, listening to a single vocalist. Mute all
channels again except the tweeters. Then bring in the midranges. If these
pairs are in the proper phase the sound should be near the center in the upper
part of the windshield. If they are not in phase the sound will be pulled down
lower. You can reverse the phase of BOTH mids now and listen for the
difference in the sound location. Choose the phase position that puts the
sound high near the center.
Once you have these phased you can bring in the mid-bass with the same
process. Again, the focus should be high in the dash. If the mid-bass is out
of phase with the tweeters and mids then they will pull the sound down toward
the floor.
Woofers or Subs: There will be bass! You have phased the woofers, so we
know there will be bass. What you need to listen for here is location, and
mid-bass (something with kick drums is ideal). Proper woofer phasing will work
with the mid-bass drivers to give good solid, crisp mid-bass. Out of phase
will result in a soft, low-impact mid-bass. Bass out of phase with the mid-
bass will also be more located in the back of the vehicle while a properly
phased bass will blend better into the front soundstage.
Tuning – The Simple Rules
Before you can get what, you want you to need to know what you want. In the
graphs below, we look at some different response curves and what they mean and
sound like.
Keep in mind that these illustrations are NOT what your EQ graph looks like.
They are what your RTA looks like. If you have a flat response like below on
your RTA, your EQ graph will have lots of high spots and low spots to make
the RTA graph look like that.
Flat is not the goal: Generally, a flat response will give a sound lacking in
bass and will sound harsh on the high end and a little “thin” without a lot of
body.
An Excellent response curve: Here is a curve that will almost always sound superb in a vehicle. The bass area as 3 to 4dB above the midrange and the highs slope off smoothly. This will have good solid bass and a smooth sound through the midrange and highs.
Problem Curve: Here is a problem curve. The small variations in blue are
OK.
They are 2dB or less and you likely will never hear them. However, the
variations in the red circles are bad. While the ear is not so sensitive to
dips in the response, it is very sensitive to peaks. The response peaks are
what make a speaker sound “harsh” and cause “ear fatigue” (You listen for a
while then turn it off because it starts to irritate your ears). With this
curve, you want to pull down those peaks to put them in line with the rest of
the signal response. Once that is done the system should sound just about
right.
Technical Specifications
| ST-4X DSP| ST-6X DSP
---|---|---
Power @ 4Ω:| 4 x 65 watts| 6 x 100 watts
THD @ Rated Power:| < 0.5%| < 0.5%
Power @ 2Ω:| 4 x 90 watts| 6 x 130 watts
Power Bridged @ 4Ω:| 2 x 180 watts| 3 x 250 watts
Signal to Noise Ratio:| > 90dB| > 90dB
THD + Noise:| < 0.2%| < 0.2%
Channel Separation:| > 60dB| > 60dB
Input Sens. Low:| 1V/4V| 1V/4V
Input Sens. High:| 4V/8V| 4V/8V
Digital Input:| Toslink Optical| Toslink Optical
Freq. Response ±1dB:| 15Hz – 30KHz| 15Hz – 30KHz
Dimensions (WxHxL):| 160 x 57 x 284 mm| 160 x 57 x 450 mm
Overall (WxHxD):| 160 x 57 x 309 mm| 160 x 57 x 475 mm
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