Crochet Bouquet Week Six Crochet For Beginners Course Instructions

**Crochet Bouquet Week Six Crochet For Beginners Course

**

Welcome!

Welcome to Week Six of your Crochet for Beginners Course. You made it!
This week, your squares will bring together the techniques and stitches you have learned into slightly more complex variants, while also adding in two final decorative stitches: popcorn and bobble stitches.
Bobble stitches have become increasingly popular in crochet designs in the last few years, and add good fun to the designs.
We will also touch on the technique of ‘blocking’ your squares, which requires wetting and pinning your squares to make sure they’re all the same size, ready for assembly.
Finally, we will look at the different ways you can connect your squares together and add a border, the finishing touch for your blanket.

THIS WEEK’S STITCHES

Bobble & popcorn stitches

BOBBLE STITCHES

Bobble stitches essentially use the same technique as the cluster stitch, but you’ll do 5 repeats to create a fuller stitch and, to give it that extra pop, you do a shorter stitch into the next stitch.

1. Yarn over and insert your hook into the stitch.
   

2. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
   

3. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
   

4. Repeat steps 1-3 until you have 6 loops on your hook.
   

5. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on your hook. Keep this quite tight to cause extra bobble.
   

6. Yarn over one more time and pull through the loop to seal the stitch.
   

7. You will double crochet into the next stitch to form a larger pop.
   

POPCORN STITCHES

Popcorn stitches create a similar effect to the bobble stitch, but their pop is a little less pronounced, which is strange given their name.
A little different to the others, a popcorn stitch requires that you complete 4 full treble stitches into the same stitch, then you will remove your hook from your working loop, §insert it into the first treble, then add your working loop back onto the hook to pull it through the top of that first stitch to bring them together. Like the bobble stitch, you’ll double crochet into the next stitch to make it pop.

1. Make 4 treble crochet stitches into the same stitch.
   

2. Remove your hook from your working loop.
   

3. Insert your hook into the top of the first stitch as if you were working a stitch through it.
   

4. Re-insert your hook into the working loop.
   

5. Pull the first loop through the top of the first stitch.
   

THIS WEEK’S TECHNIQUES

Blocking, assembling & finishing

BLOCKING

Blocking is the process of setting your crochet into the shape you require. In this instance, that will be into a square. Wetting and pinning your work can help you to get your squares to the same size, as well as even out any edges.
For some squares, it won’t be necessary, and some projects you won’t feel the need to do it. Often with granny square projects, I don’t worry about it too much.
There are a couple of ways to block your work, but the simplest for your squares is to spray and pin. Using a spray bottle, or a mister, you can spray some water onto your piece until the surface is damp to the touch. You don’t want it to be too wet. You will then want to use some rust-resistant pins – T-Pins are commonly available in craft stores and online.

You want to make sure that you are pinning your work at regular intervals, not allowing your fabric to bow, as when it dries it will do so with these semicircle shapes.
Leave your work to dry, and then unpin.

ASSEMBLING YOUR PROJECT

There are many ways to join your project together. From simply stitching together using a needle and your yarn, or crocheting it together. In terms of crocheting it, you have several options. Using a slip stitch or double crochet on the ‘wrong side’ of your work, or using a double crochet on the ‘right side’, or using a slip stitch in the back loops of the squares from the right side to create a ‘zipper stitch’ seam .

ZIPPER STITCH

Starting with my favourite, if a little more time consuming finish, the zipper stitch. You simply lay your squares facing right-side up, and do a slip stitch through the aligned back loops.

1. Lay your squares next to each other right-side up, lining up the corners and edge stitches.
2. With your slip knot on your hook, holding your yarn to the back of your work, insert your hook into the back loop of each square, one at a time.
3. Yarn over and pull through both back loops, and the loop on your hook.
4. Repeat the process to the corners – I like to alternate each square I go into first – insert your hook into the corner spaces, rather than into the chain stitches.

WHIP STITCH

The whip stitch is a really simple way to sew your squares together. Take a length of yarn and hold your squares together to sew through. You can either go through the loops on the back of the squares facing you as you hold them together, or go through the tops of the stitches as if you were crocheting them.

1. Hold your squares right-side together, lining up the corners and stitches.
2. Take your yarn needle, threaded with your edging colour, and insert into the stitches. Option1 is to go through the tops of the stitches as if crocheting them.
3. Option 2 is to insert into the loop that is facing you on the back of the square.
4. Pull tight, and continue along.
5. When you reach the corners, do your stitch as normal, but instead of coming back into the same square, insert diagonally up into the next square corner, then straight cross to the fourth square, then diagonally back down into the first square. Then insert diagonally back up to the next set of squares and keep going.

SLIP STITCH & DOUBLE CROCHET 

You can also join your squares using crochet stitches on the back side of your work – or in the case of the double crochet on the front too. Working the double crochet stitch forms a ridge on the work, which will often lean in one direction, rather than sitting flat up.

1. Hold your squares right-side together ,lining up the corners and stitches.
2. Start with a slip knot on your hook, then insert your hook into the tops of the stitches, and work along, stitching into the top of each stitch and into each corner-space.
3. For double crochet, you may also want to start with wrong sides together.
4. When you reach the corner joins, decide how you want the crossovers to sit. Working logically and consistently over or under.
   

FINISHING YOUR PROJECT

Now all your squares are joined together, it’s time to decide on how you would like to border your project. Here are a few different stitch combinations you can try.

DOUBLE CROCHET

Insert your hook into the top of any stitch, starting with one chain, then working a double crochet into each stitch. At the corner-spaces, work one stitch into the corner-space, then work a dc2tog across the two corner-spaces.

1. Insert your hook into the corner-space, yarn over and pull up a loop.
2. Insert your hook into the next corner-space and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through all loops on your hook.
   

Like with the edging on your squares, do (dc, ch, dc) into each corner. Finish up each round with an invisible finish.
Work a few rounds in different colours to finish off.

TREBLE CROCHET

Like with the double crochet, join your yarn into any edge space. Start with 3 chains, which count as a stitch, then work a treble into each stitch.

1. Insert your hook into the corner-space, yarn over and pull up a loop.
2. Insert your hook into the next corner-space and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through two loops on your hook, then repeat.
   

LINEN STITCH

Like with Square Three, you will skip stitches and work into the chain-spaces from the second row of your edging.

1. With a slip knot on your hook, insert into any joined corner space. Chain, and do a double crochet into the same space.
2. Chain, then do a  double crochet into the first stitch on the edge of the square (the one that forms a triangle into the corner-space).
3. Continue to chain 1, and skip a stitch to double crochet into the next stitch.
4. When you reach the next corner-space, do one double crochet into the corner space, chain to go over the top of the join, then double crochet into the next corner space.
5. Continue on to the corner-space, and work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the corner space.
6. On your next row, work a double crochet into each chain-space, with a chain between each dc.
   

SCALLOPED EDGE

A scalloped edge is created by using a shell stitch (putting a half-circle amount of stitches into a single stitch) to create a more frilly edging. Into the corners of your blanket, you will work 9 stitches to take it around the 270° angle.
First, do a round of double crochet (follow the previous instructions), then, joining into a stitch 2 away from a corner, then work 9 stitches into the corner space. Skip to the 2nd stitch after the corner-space, and join with a slip stitich. Then skip another stitch and work 6 treble crochets into the same stitch, skipping another double crochet to then slip stitich into the next one. Continue like this to the end.

FIND THIS WEEK’S VIDEOS IN YOUR ONLINE GUIDE:
www.crochetbouquet.co.uk/mulberry-bush

SQUARE TWENTY-ONE: BOBBLE STITCH

Special Stitches

BOBBLE-ST bobble stitch – YO, insert hook in space, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops. Repeat from * 5 times, until you have 6 loops left on your hook. YO and pull through all loops on your hook. Ch to seal the st.

Tension

Approx 17 sts and 12 rows per 10x10cm square.

The Pattern

Using your MC, ch 27.

ROW 1: tr into 4th ch from hook (turning ch counts as st here and throughout). tr into each ch to end. (25 sts)
ROW 2: Ch 1, 3 dc, bobble-st, 5 dc, rep from 3 times, bobble-st, 3 dc.
ROW 3: Ch 3, (counts as tr here and throughout), tr in each st.
ROW 4: ch 1, 6 dc, bobble-st, 5 dc, rep from 3 times, dc into last st.
ROW 5-19 : Rep row 2-3 until you have 19 rows. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Attach to any st in your last row, dc in each st to corner (dc ch, dc) into corner st, roughly place 25-27 sts down the edge.

SQUARE TWENTY-TWO: POPCORN & BOBBLE FLOWER

Special Stitches

POP-ST popcorn stitch – 4 tr into the same st. Remove hook and put into the top of the first tr, then using the working loop, join to the first st. ch to secure st.
BOBBLE-ST bobble stitch – YO, insert hook in space, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops. Repeat from * 5 times, until you have 6 loops left on your hook. YO and pull through all loops on your hook. Ch to seal the st.

Tension

ROUND MEASUREMENTS: Approx 2.5:5:7.5:10:12.5:15: 15.5 cm

The Pattern

Using your CC1, make a magic ring.
RND 1: Ch 3 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), work (pop- st, ch) 6 times into ring. Pull right. Ch into top of 1st pop-st. Join next col into any ch-sp.
RND 2: Ch 3, (pop-st, ch, pop-st, ch) into each ch-sp. Join to top of 1st puff-st with sl st. Join cc2 into any ch-sp.
RND 3: Ch 1, (dc, bobble-st, dc, ch) into each ch-sp. Join into top of bobble-st with sl st. Join MC into any ch-sp from prev rnd.
RND 4: (Ch 3, tr, ch, 2 tr) into ch-sp, dc in top of bobble-st, (2 tr, ch, 2 tr) into next ch-sp, dc into top of bobble-st, rep from 11 times. Join into top of ch3 with sl st. Join into any ch-sp.
RND   5: ch 1, dc into same ch-sp, 4 ch, htr into next chsp, ch 4, (dtr ,ch 2, dtr) into top of next bobble st, ch 4, htr into next ch-sp, ch 4,* dc into next ch-sp, rep from to 4 times. Join to top of dc with sl st. Join into any ch-sp.
RND 6: (ch 3, 2 tr) into same ch-sp, tr into top of st, 3 tr into ch-sp, to corner-sp, (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into cornersp. Join into top of ch 3 with sl st.
RND 7:** ch 2, htr into each st, (2 htr, ch 2, 2 htr) into each corner-sp. Join into top of ch 2 with sl st. Fasten off and finish with an invisible finish.

SQUARE TWENTY-THREE: 3D FLOWER

Special Stitches

POP-ST popcorn stitch – 4 tr into the same st. Remove hook and put into the top of the first tr, then using the working loop, join to the first st. ch to secure st.
CLUSTER STITCH YO, insert hook in space, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops, rep from 3 times. YO, pull through all loops on hook.

Tension

ROUND MEASUREMENTS: Approx 2.5:5:7.5:10:12.5:15: 15.5 cm

The Pattern

Using your CC2, start in the round using your chosen method.
RND 1: Ch 1, 6 dc into ring. Join to top of 1st dc with sl st. Pull ring tight. Join CC1 into top of dc.
RND 2: Ch 3, (pop-st, ch, pop-st, ch) into the top of each st. Join to top of 1st pop-st with sl st.(12 pop) Join MC into any ch-sp.
R ND 3: Ch 3, (cluster-st, ch) into each ch-sp. Join to top of 1st cluster-st with sl st. (12 cluster) Join CC1 colour into any ch-sp.
RND 4 : Ch 1, dc into same ch-sp. ch 6, sk next ch-sp, dc into 2nd ch- sp, ch 6, rep from 5 times. Join to top of first dc with sl st. Do not fasten off.
RND 5 : (Sl st, dc, htr, tr, 4 dtr, tr, htr, dc, sl st) into ch6-sp, rep from 6 times. Rep round 4-5 with CC2, working into the unused chsp from rnd 3. Move prev rnd 4-5, forwards to work sts behind it. Join MC to top of cluster-st from rnd 3.
RND 6: Work only into the top of cluster-sts. Ch 4, htr, ch 2, (dtr, ch 2, dtr), ch 2, htr, ch 2, htr, ch 2, rep from 3 times, (dtr, ch 2, dtr), ch 2 sl st into 2nd ch from start of rnd. Do not fasten off.
RND 7-8: Ch 3, tr in each st to corner-sp, (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) into the corner-sp, rep from to end. Do not fasten off.
RND 9: Ch2, htr in each st to corner-sp, (2 htr, ch 2, 2 htr) into the corner-sp, rep from to end. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

SQUARE TWENTY-FOUR: BRAID CABLE

Special Stitches

FPDTR front post double-treble (US FPtr – front post treble crochet) – yo, insert hook around post of stitch from previous row, starting at the front toback, yo, pull up a loop, complete as normal double-treble.
BPDTR back post treble (US BPdc – back post double crochet) – yo, insert hook around post of stitch from previous row, starting at the back to front, yo, pull up a loop, complete as normal double-treble.
FCFPDTR front-crossed front post treble crochet (US FCFPtr – front- crossed front post treble crochet) – sk, FPdtr around next st, FPdtr around sk st working in front of the fabric.
BCFPDTR back-crossed front post treble crochet (US FCtr – front-crossed treble crochet) – sk, FPdtr around next st, FPdtr around sk st working in back of the fabric.

NOTE: The stitch diagram starts in the opposite corner to usual to allow for less visual confusion.

Tension

Approx 18 sts and 11 rows per 10 cm.

The Pattern

Using your MC, ch 32.
RND 1: tr into 4th ch from hook (turning ch counts as st here and throughout). tr into each ch to end. (30sts)
RND 2: 3 ch, 3 tr, sk 3, 3 FPdtr, work 3 FPdtr into skipped sts in the front of your work, 3 FPdtr, 4 tr, rep from twice. Work last st into top of ch 3.
RND 3: ch 3, 3 tr, 9 BPdtr, 4 tr, rep from twice. Work last st into top of ch 3.
RND 4: 3 ch, 3 FPdtr, sk 3, 3 FPdtr, work 3 FPdtr into skipped sts in the back of your work, 4 tr, rep from twice. Work last st into top of ch 3.
RND 5: As row 3. Rep rows 2-5 until you have 15 rows. Fasten off and finish with an invisible finish.

Customer Support

NEED HELP? Contact me at crochetbouquetbyjen@gmail.com

References

• Crochet for Beginners | The Mulberry Bush, Thatcham – Crochet Bouquet

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