iRacing NASCAR XFINITY Series Car User Manual
- June 13, 2024
- iRacing
Table of Contents
iRacing NASCAR XFINITY Series Car
DEAR iRACING USER
Congratulations on your purchase of a NASCAR XFINITY Series car! From all of
us at iRacing, we appreciate your support and your commitment to our product.
We aim to deliver the ultimate sim racing experience, and we hope that you’ll
find plenty of excitement with us behind the wheel of your new car! The NASCAR
XFINITY Series is the final step on the stock car ladder to the NASCAR Cup
Series Chevys, Fords and Toyotas raced in the NASCAR
iRacing.com Class A Series, the NASCAR iRacing Series
and the eNASCAR Coca-Cola iRacing Series. These cars have been updated with an
all-new build reflecting their performance in the current NASCAR XFINITY
Series season.
Like their NASCAR XFINITY Series counterparts, these cars are powered by a 358
cu in (5.8 liter) pushrod V8 putting out 650-700 hp (450 hp with restrictor
plates) and sports non-adjustable nose “splitters” and rear spoilers along
with a variety of safety features including double frame rails aligning with
front and rear bumpers to improve protection in side impacts.
The following guide explains how to get the most out of your new car, from how
to adjust its settings off of the track to what you’ll see inside of the
cockpit while driving. We hope that you’ll find it useful in getting up to
speed.
Thanks again for your purchase, and we’ll see you on the track!
FABRICATED STEEL TUBE CHASSIS
DOUBLE WISHBONE INDEPENDENT FRONT, LIVE AXLE TRUCK ARM REAR
NATURALLY ASPIRATED STEEL BLOCK PUSHROD V8
Introduction
The information found in this guide is intended to provide a deeper
understanding of the chassis setup adjustments available in the garage, so
that you may use the garage to tune the chassis setup to your preference.
Before diving into chassis adjustments, though, it is best to become familiar
with the car and track. To that end, we have provided baseline setups for each
track commonly raced by these cars. To access the baseline setups, simply open
the Garage, click iRacing Setups, and select the appropriate setup for your
track of choice. If you are driving a track for which a dedicated baseline
setup is not included, you may select a setup for a similar track to use as
your baseline. After you have selected an appropriate setup, get on track and
focus on making smooth and consistent laps, identifying the proper racing line
and experiencing tire wear and handling trends over a number of laps.
Once you are confident that you are nearing your driving potential with the
included baseline setups, read on to begin tuning the car to your handling
preferences.
GETTING STARTED
Once you load into the car, press the clutch and select 1st gear. Give it a bit of throttle and ease off the clutch pedal to get underway. This car uses an h-pattern transmission, but only requires the clutch pedal to get the car rolling and when coming to a stop in gear. To upshift, simply let off the throttle and select the next higher gear. To downshift, give the throttle a blip while selecting the next lower gear. Upshifting is recommended when the red RPM warning light illuminates. If you downshift too early, or don’t blip the throttle sufficiently, the wheel speed and engine speed will be mismatched, leading to wheel hop at the rear and a possible spin.
LOADING AN iRACING SETUP
When you first load into a session, the iRacing Baseline setup will be
automatically loaded onto the car. If you would like to try any of the other
iRacing pre-built options, you may select it by going to Garage > iRacing
Setups > and then selecting another option that fits your needs. Because this
car uses slightly different chassis and body configurations on different types
of tracks, it will be necessary to load a setup from the same track type to
pass tech inspection. For example, a setup for Talladega will pass at Daytona,
but likely will not pass at Bristol.
If you would like to customize the setup, simply make the changes in the
garage that you would like to update and click apply. If you would like to
save your setup for future use click “Save As” on the right to name and save
the changes. To access all of your personally saved setups, click “My Setups”
on the right side of the garage. If you would like to share a setup with
another driver or everyone in a session, you can select “Share” on the right
side of the garage to do so. If a driver is trying to share a setup with you,
you will find it under “Shared Setups” on the right side of the garage as
well.
Dash Configurations
Each manufacturer has its own unique dash and gauge cluster configuration, but each provides the same information, with the exception that the Toyota does not include cooling system pressure. Oil temperature and water temperature are important gauges for ensuring the engine is running in its optimal temperature range and preventing damage to the engine. These will turn red when the values are in a dangerous range. If they turn red in normal driving, it may be necessary to reduce tape on the grill opening, or make a gear change to reduce RPM. If they turn red while drafting in a pack, it will be necessary to pull out of the pack and cool the engine. If this happens too often, reducing the tape may be necessary to run in the pack competitively.
CHEVROLET CAMARO DASH
For the Chevrolet, the two gauges to the left are oil temperature and water temperature respectively, with the cluster of four gauges including the charging system volts, water pressure, oil pressure, and fuel pressure, and the large gauge being the tachometer. The tachometer includes an array of LED lights in the center that illuminate yellow when approaching pit speed limit, green when running at the limit, and red when the limit is exceeded. When green and red, the RPM numbers and increments also illuminate. This light sequence is calibrated for the speed of the car when it is running in 2nd gear. The RPM numbers and increments alone will illuminate red when the RPM limit is approached.
FORD MUSTANG DASH
For the Ford, the smaller gauges in order from left to right are the water temperature, cooling system pressure, charging system volts, oil temperature, oil pressure, and fuel pressure. The large central gauge is the tachometer. The tachometer includes an array of LED lights in the center that illuminate yellow when approaching pit speed limit, green when running at the limit, and red when the limit is exceeded. When green and red, the RPM numbers and increments also illuminate. This light sequence is calibrated for the speed of the car when it is running in 2nd gear. The RPM numbers and increments alone will illuminate red when the RPM limit is approached.
TOYOTA SUPRA DASH
For the Toyota, the two gauges to the left are oil temperature and oil
pressure, the two gauges to the right are water temperature and charging
system volts, and the lone gauge in the center of the car is fuel pressure,
with the large gauge being the tachometer.
The tachometer includes an array of LED lights around the rim that illuminate
yellow when approaching pit speed limit, green when running at the limit, and
red when the limit is exceeded. When green and red, the RPM numbers and
increments also illuminate.
This light sequence is calibrated for the speed of the car when it is running
in 2nd gear. The RPM numbers and increments alone will illuminate red when the
RPM limit is approached.
TACHOMETER (MUSTANG & CAMARO)
NASCAR does not allow the use of either a speedometer or a pit speed limiter, thus the pit road speed limit can only be followed by running a specific RPM in a given gear. To help the driver maintain proper pit road speed without having to look at the tachometer, the Spek Pro tachometer features Pit Speed lights, which illuminate either yellow, green, or red to show whether the vehicle is traveling too slowly or speeding on pit road. These lights are accurate to a track’s pit road speed limit only when the transmission is in 2nd Gear, and are set automatically when loading a track in the sim.
PIT SPEED INDICATOR
If the vehicle is below the pit road speed limit, the tachometer will
illuminate the speed lights in yellow, with 1 light being farthest from pit
road speed and all 7 being moderately slower than the pit road speed limit,
usually just a few miles-per-hour slower than the limit.
APPROACHING PIT SPEED LIMIT
As the vehicle’s speed approaches the pit road speed limit (but is not
exceeding the speed limit), the pit lights will turn green, with 1 green light
being the farthest from the pit road speed limit and 6 lights being just
underneath the pit road speed limit.
AT PIT SPEED LIMIT
When the vehicle is traveling at the pit road speed limit, the 7th light will
illuminate in green and the backlight color will change to green, illuminating
the entire gauge with a green light.
EXCEEDING PIT SPEED LIMIT
When the pit road speed limit is exceeded, the entire gauge backlight will
turn red and the speed lights will also change from green to red. Similar to
the other modes, 1 red light is just above pit road speed limit and each
additional light signals the vehicle is exceeding the speed limit. If the
vehicle continues accelerating after the 7th red light, all speed lights will
turn off and the backlight will return to its standard color.
SHIFT LIGHT
The tachometer is also equipped with a Shift Light mode, which turns the gauge
backlight to red. This is distinguishable from the pit road speeding mode by
the speed lights being off, and will be enabled just before the engine reaches
the rev limiter.
TACHOMETER (SUPRA)
PIT SPEED INDICATOR
If the vehicle is below the pit road speed limit, the tachometer will
illuminate the speed lights in yellow, with 1 light being farthest from pit
road speed and all 10 being moderately slower than the pit road speed limit,
usually just a few miles-per-hour slower than the limit.
APPROACHING PIT SPEED LIMIT
As the vehicle’s speed approaches the pit road speed limit (but is not
exceeding the speed limit), the pit lights will turn green, with 1 green light
being the farthest from the pit road speed limit and 9 lights being just
underneath the pit road speed limit.
AT PIT SPEED LIMIT
When the vehicle is traveling at the pit road speed limit, the 10th light will
illuminate in green and the backlight color will change to green, illuminating
the entire gauge with a green light.
EXCEEDING PIT SPEED LIMIT
When the pit road speed limit is exceeded, the entire gauge backlight will
turn red and the speed lights will also change from green to red. Similar to
the other modes, 1 red light is just above pit road speed limit and each
additional light signals the vehicle is exceeding the speed limit. If the
vehicle continues accelerating after the 7th red light, all speed lights will
turn off and the backlight will return to its standard color.
SHIFT LIGHT
The tachometer is also equipped with a Shift Light mode, which turns the gauge
backlight to red. This is distinguishable from the pit road speeding mode by
the speed lights being off, and will be enabled just before the engine reaches
the rev limiter.
ADVANCED SETUP OPTIONS
This section is aimed toward more advanced users who want to dive deeper into the different aspects of the vehicle’s setup. Making adjustments to the following parameters is not required and can lead to significant changes in the way a vehicle handles. It is recommended that any adjustments are made in an incremental fashion and only singular variables are adjusted before testing changes.
Tires
TIRE SETTINGS (ALL FOUR TIRES)
COLD PRESSURE
Air pressure in the tire when the car is loaded into the world. Higher
pressures will reduce rolling drag and heat buildup, but will decrease grip.
Lower pressures will increase rolling drag and heat buildup, but will increase
grip. Higher speeds and loads will require higher pressures, while lower
speeds and loads will see better performance from lower pressures. Cold
pressures should be set to track characteristics for optimum performance. For
typical road courses or for oval left side tires, lower tire pressures are
recommended. For oval right side tires, the greater loads experienced by the
tires require higher starting pressures.
LAST HOT PRESSURE
Air pressure in the tire after the car has returned to the pits. The
difference between Cold and Hot pressures can be used to
identify how the car is progressing through a run in terms of balance, with
heavier-loaded tires seeing a larger difference between Cold and Hot
pressures. Ideally, tires that are worked in a similar way should build
pressure at the same rate to prevent a change in handling balance over the
life of the tire, so Cold pressures should be adjusted to ensure that similar
tires are at similar pressures once up to operating temperature. On ovals, the
right front and right rear would be similar, and the left front and left rear
would be similar. On road courses, the left front and right front would be
similar, and the left rear and right rear would be similar.
LAST TEMPS
Tire carcass temperatures, measured via Pyrometer, once the car has returned
from the pits. Wheel Loads and the amount of work a tire is doing on-track is
reflected in the tire’s temperature, and these values can be used to analyze
the car’s handling balance. Center temperatures are useful for directly
comparing the work done by each tire, while the Inner and Outer temperatures
are useful for analyzing the wheel alignment while on track. These values are
measured in three zones across the tread of the tire. For ovals, the left
sides of the tires should typically be the most heavily loaded and hottest, so
the outsides of the left side tires and insides of right side tires. For road
courses, the insides of each tire should carry the greatest loads and
temperatures.
TREAD REMAINING
The amount of tread remaining on the tire once the car has returned from the
pits. Tire wear is very helpful in identifying any possible issues with
alignment, such as one side of the tire wearing excessively, and can be used
in conjunction with tire temperatures to analyze the car’s handling balance.
These values are measured in three zones across the tread of the tire.
Chassis
FRONT END
BALLAST FORWARD
To meet minimum weight requirements, tungsten blocks are installed within the
lower frame rails on the chassis. These blocks can be moved fore and aft in
the chassis, directly influencing the car’s Nose Weight value. The Ballast
Forward value is simply a measurement of the location of these tungsten blocks
relative to a reference point in the frame rail. Moving ballast forward in the
car raises Nose Weight, moving it rearward reduces Nose Weight.
NOSE WEIGHT
The vehicle’s Nose Weight is the percentage of total vehicle weight on the
front tires, directly adjustable through the Ballast Forward adjustment. Nose
Weight represents a rough approximation of the longitudinal Center of Gravity
location in the vehicle and has a direct influence on the high-speed stability
of the vehicle. Higher Nose Weight values result in a more directionallystable
vehicle, good for low-grip tracks and situations where the vehicle is set up
with extra front downforce. Conversely, lower Nose Weight values are good for
high-grip tracks and configurations with high rear downforce levels. Smaller
tracks will also see benefits from lower Nose Weight values, as it will allow
the rear of the vehicle to rotate easier.
CROSS WEIGHT
Cross weight is the amount of weight on the car’s Left-Rear and Right-Front
tires relative to the entire weight of the car, displayed in percent. This is
adjusted via the corner Spring Perch Offset adjustments as well as Front ARB
preload and, to a very small extent, the Truck Arm Preload. For an oval car,
Cross Weight is one of the most influential settings for grip level while the
vehicle is in a turn. Higher Cross Weight values will add weight to the left-
rear and right-front, both stabilizing entry and helping drive-off on corner
exit. Lower Cross-Weight values will help the vehicle rotate and keep it
“free” in the corner to prevent speed from being lost, however too low can
result in unstable entry and exit.
STEERING RATIO
The Steering Ratio is a numerical value for how fast the steering response is
in the vehicle’s steering box. This ratio can be thought of as the degrees of
steering input needed to produce one degree of turn on the steering box output
shaft. For example, a 12:1 steering ratio will require 12° of steering input
to rotate the steering output shaft 1°. A steering box with a lower ratio will
feel more responsive to steering inputs and will require less steering input
to reach the amount needed to navigate a corner. A steering box with a higher
ratio will feel less responsive and will require more steering input to reach
the amount needed to navigate a corner.
STEERING OFFSET
Degrees of steering wheel offset, achieved with a combination of installing
the steering wheel into the quick release mechanism off-center and adjusting
front tie-rods. This can be used to compensate for chassis settings which
place the wheel off center and is primarily a driver comfort adjustment.
FRONT BRAKE BIAS
Brake Bias is the percentage of braking force that is being sent to the front
brakes. Values above 50% result in more pressure being sent to the front,
while values less than 50% send more force to the rear. This should be tuned
for both driver preference and track conditions to get the optimum braking
performance for a given situation.
TAPE CONFIGURATION
Percentage of grill opening blocked off by tape. Increasing the percentage
reduces aerodynamic drag and increases downforce while shifting the downforce
balance forward, but reduces air flow to the cooling system and increases
engine heat. Decreasing percentage increases cooling but also increases drag
and reduces downforce. Too much tape may risk engine damage over more than a
short number of laps.
FRONT ARB
DIAMETER
The ARB (Anti-Roll Bar) diameter influences the stiffness of the front
suspension in roll, such as when navigating a corner. Increasing the ARB size
will increase the roll stiffness of the front suspension, resulting in less
body roll and improved aerodynamic stability but increasing mechanical
understeer. This can also, in some cases, lead to a more responsive steering
feel for the driver. Conversely, reducing the ARB size will soften the
suspension in roll, increasing body roll and reducing aerodynamic efficiency
but decreasing mechanical understeer. This can result in a less-responsive
feel from the steering. ARB diameter can be used as a fine tuning adjustment
for dynamic wheel rate, and to control roll angle for optimal ride heights and
aerodynamic performance.
ARM ASYMMETRY
The difference in length between the left and right sway bar arms can be
altered via the Arm Asymmetry settings. The “None” setting will set the two
arms at equal length, while increasing the setting will increase the
difference in length of the two arms.
This can be used to produce multiple effects, primarily serving to produce a
higher anti-roll force on the right-front suspension than on the left-front,
effectively rolling the chassis to the left when under load. This can be used
to correct excessive roll without increasing the ARB diameter. A knock-on
effect of asymmetry is a slight increase in front end heave stiffness, or
resistance to vertical travel. Since the two different lengths of arms cause
the bar to be twisted at different rates, vertical travel will load the ARB,
possibly leading to higher front ride heights on straights.
LINK SLACK
The left-side sway bar linkage can be adjusted to either delay bar engagement
or apply a static load to the bar. The linkage itself is a slider-type
linkage, and any positive link slack will require the left-front wheel to
travel prior to the ARB experiencing any load. This adjustment directly
affects the bar’s Preload, outlined below.
PRELOAD
The ARB Preload is the static load in the bar while the vehicle is in the
garage. Preload adjustments can be used to alter the dynamic loads in the bar
while on track, and can be used to remove or add bar load in the corners and
on the straights.
ATTACH
A quick way to unhook the anti-roll bar to allow for static suspension
adjustments without bar twist confusing things; increase link slack and unhook
the ARB before making spring/ride height adjustments; attach and reduce link
slack (ARB preload) when done. If the ARB is attached with any preload while
making adjustments, this will influence all other adjustments and quickly lead
to improperly adjusting the chassis in compensation for the preload.
FRONT CORNERS
CORNER WEIGHT
The weight distribution on each tire under static conditions in the garage.
Correct weight arrangement around the car is crucial for optimizing a car for
a given track and conditions. Individual wheel weight adjustments and cross
weight adjustments are made via the spring perch offset setting. Once ride
heights and corner weights are set, any change to a spring rate will typically
require a corresponding spring perch offset adjustment to maintain static
corner weight.
RIDE HEIGHT
Distance from ground to a reference point on the chassis. Front heights are
measured at the bottom of the chassis frame rail just behind the wheel well
and can be roughly identified via the skirt rivets at the bottom of the door.
Since these values are measured to a specific reference point on the car,
these values may not necessarily reflect the vehicle’s ground clearance, but
instead provide a reliable value for the height of the car off of the race
track at static values. Adjusting Ride Heights is key for optimum performance,
as they can directly influence the vehicle’s aerodynamic performance as well
as mechanical grip.
SHOCK DEFLECTION
Shock Deflection is how much the shock has compressed from its fully extended
length while under static conditions in the garage.
This is useful for determining how much shock travel is available before the
shock springs and packers are engaged on the shock body.
SPRING PERCH OFFSET
Spring perch offset is used to adjust ride height and corner weight. Adjusting
this setting changes the preload on the spring under static conditions.
Decreasing the value increases preload on the spring, adding weight to its
corner and increasing the ride height at that corner. Increasing the value
does the opposite, reducing height and weight on a given corner. These should
be adjusted in pairs (left and right, for example) or with all four spring
preload adjustments in the car to prevent cross weight changes while adjusting
ride height.
SPRING RATE
Spring Rate changes how stiff the spring is, represented in force per unit of
displacement. Primarily responsible for maintaining ride height and
aerodynamic attitude under changing wheel loads, stiffer springs control the
chassis attitude better (less roll or pitch change) which is good for
aerodynamics and camber control, but mechanical grip is often better with
softer springs which allow for more track surface compliance but reduce
aerodynamic control.
SHOCK SPRING RATE
The shock spring is a small metallic coil spring mounted on the shock body
that keeps the shock from bottoming. If a car’s suspension compresses into the
shock spring while on track, the stiffness of the shock spring will affect the
handling in the same way the regular corner spring rates do.
PACKERS
Packers are shims inserted between the shock springs and shock body to change
the amount of shock deflection at which the shock spring is engaged in
compression. This allows fine control over dynamic ride heights which can
improve the aerodynamic downforce and alter the mechanical balance.
BUMP STIFFNESS
Bump stiffness affects how resistant the shock is to compression (reduction in
length), usually in chassis movements as a result of driver input (steering,
braking, & throttle) and cornering forces. Higher values will increase
compression resistance and transfer load onto a given tire more quickly. Lower
values reduce compression resistance and transfer load onto a given tire more
slowly.
Differences between left and right bump stiffness influence dynamic cross
weight on corner entry and result in a dynamic shift in balance while the
shocks are being compressed, with greater right front bump shifting the
balance toward understeer.
REBOUND STIFFNESS
Rebound stiffness affects how resistant the shock is to extension (increase in
length), typically during body movement as a result of driver inputs. Higher
rebound values will slow extension of the shock, lower values will allow the
shock to extend faster. Higher rebound values can better control aerodynamic
attitude but can result in the wheel being unloaded when the suspension can’t
extend enough to maintain proper contact with the track. When tuning for
handling, higher front rebound can increase on-throttle mechanical understeer
(but reduce splitter lift, maintaining downforce) while lower values will
maintain front end grip longer, helping to reduce mechanical understeer, but
will allow more splitter lift and reduce downforce. Differences between left
and right front rebound influence dynamic cross on corner exit, with greater
right front rebound shifting the balance toward oversteer.
Excessive front rebound can lead to unwanted oscillations due to the wheel
bouncing off of the track surface instead of staying in contact.
CAMBER
Camber is the vertical angle of the wheel relative to the center of the
chassis. Negative camber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the chassis
centerline than the bottom of the wheel, positive camber is when the top of
the tire is farther out than the bottom. Greater camber angles will increase
the cornering force generated by the tire, but will reduce the amount of
longitudinal grip the tire will have under braking. Excessive camber values
can produce very high cornering forces but will also significantly reduce tire
life, so it is important to find a balance between life and performance. For
ovals, set the left side positive and the right side negative. For road
courses, all four wheels should be set with negative camber.
CASTER
How much the steering axis is leaned back (positive) or forward (negative),
which influences dynamic load jacking effects as the car is steered. More
positive caster results in a heavier steering feel but decreases dynamic cross
weight while turning, as well as adding straight-line stability. Running less
caster on the left-front will cause the vehicle to pull to the left, a
desirable effect on ovals.
TOE-IN
Toe is the angle of the wheel, when viewed from above, relative to the
centerline of the chassis. Positive toe-in is when the front of the wheel is
closer to the centerline than the rear of the wheel, and negative toe-in (toe-
out) is when the front of the wheel is farther away from the centerline than
the rear of the wheel. On the front, negative toe-in is generally preferred.
More negative toein typically provides better turn in and straight line
stability, but at the cost of increased tire temperature and wear.
REAR CORNERS
CORNER WEIGHT
The weight underneath each tire under static conditions in the garage. Correct
weight arrangement around the car is crucial for optimizing a car for a given
track and conditions. Individual wheel weight adjustments and cross weight
adjustments are made via the Spring Perch Offset setting.
RIDE HEIGHT
Distance from ground to a reference point on the chassis. Since these values
are measured to a specific reference point on the car, these values may not
necessarily reflect the vehicle’s ground clearance, but instead provide a
reliable value for the height of the car off of the race track at static
values. Adjusting Ride Heights is key for optimum performance, as they can
directly influence the vehicle’s aerodynamic performance as well as mechanical
grip. Increasing rear ride height will increase rear downforce as well as
slightly increasing overall downforce and drag. Conversely, reducing rear ride
height will reduce rear and overall downforce and reduce drag.
SHOCK DEFLECTION
Shock Deflection is how much the shock has compressed from its fully extended
length while under static conditions in the garage.
SPRING PERCH OFFSET
Used to adjust ride height and corner weight, adjusting this setting applies a
preload to the spring under static conditions. Decreasing the value increases
preload on the spring, adding weight to its corner and increasing the ride
height at that corner.
Increasing the value does the opposite, reducing height and weight on a given
corner. These should be adjusted in pairs (left and right, for example) or
with all four spring preload adjustments in the car to prevent cross weight
changes while adjusting ride height.
SPRING RATE
Spring Rate changes how stiff the spring is, represented in force per unit of
displacement. Primarily responsible for maintaining ride height and
aerodynamic attitude under changing wheel loads, stiffer springs control the
chassis attitude better (less roll or pitch change) which is good for
aerodynamics and camber control, but mechanical grip is often better with
softer springs which allow for more track surface compliance but reduce
aerodynamic control. For ovals, a softer left rear spring (relative to the
right-rear) is desired to prevent the dynamic cross from being too high in the
corners, which will result in a balance shift towards understeer through a
run.
TRAVEL TO COIL BIND
For all tracks over a mile in length (excluding Super Speedways), the option
to bind the right-rear spring is available when the spring is 350 lb/in or
softer. When the car is at speed, aerodynamic loads will compress the spring
enough that it will bind and gain a significant amount of rate over a short
amount of travel. How much travel is available is adjustable in the “Travel to
Coil Bind” setting, representing how much the spring must travel from tech
heights before it binds. Smaller numbers bind the spring sooner (higher rear
heights) while larger numbers will allow more travel and bind later (lower
rear heights). This is an extremely effective way to reduce drag and control
rear heights while on track when compared to a linear-rate spring.
For smoother or longer tracks, binding the rear spring can be very helpful to
keep the rear of the car down and increase straight line speed, and can also
help to keep rear heights consistent through travel. However, since a bound
rear spring has a very high spring rate, bumpier tracks may require less
aggressive bind settings or cause it to be disadvantageous. Similarly, low-
grip tracks may cause a bind rear spring to be too slippery, so it’s important
to work with the travel amount, spring rate, and cross weight to fine-tune
this setting for optimum performance.
BUMP STIFFNESS
Bump stiffness affects how resistant the shock is to compression (reduction in
length), usually in chassis movements as a result of driver input (steering,
braking, & throttle) and cornering forces. Higher values will increase
compression resistance and transfer load onto a given tire more quickly. Lower
values reduce compression resistance and transfer load onto a given tire more
slowly.
Differences between left and right bump stiffness influence dynamic cross
weight and result in a dynamic shift in balance while the shocks are being
compressed, particularly on corner exit, with greater right rear bump shifting
the dynamic balance toward oversteer.
REBOUND STIFFNESS
Rebound stiffness affects how resistant the shock is to extension (increase in
length), typically during body movement as a result of driver inputs. Higher
rebound values will slow extension of the shock, lower values will allow the
shock to extend faster. Higher rebound values can better control aerodynamic
attitude but can result in the wheel being unloaded when the suspension can’t
extend enough to maintain proper contact with the track. When tuning for
handling, higher rear rebound can increase off throttle mechanical oversteer
while lower values will maintain rear end grip longer, helping to reduce
mechanical oversteer off throttle, but will allow more rear deck lift and
shift the aero balance forward. Differences between left and right rear
rebound can influence off throttle dynamic cross weight on corner entry, with
greater right rear rebound shifting the dynamic balance toward understeer.
CAMBER
Camber is the vertical angle of the wheel relative to the center of the
chassis. Negative camber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the chassis
centerline than the bottom of the wheel, positive camber is when the top of
the tire is farther out than the bottom. Due to suspension geometry and corner
loads, negative camber is desired on all four wheels on road courses, but on
ovals positive camber is desired on the left sides. Higher camber values will
increase the cornering force generated by the tire, but will reduce the amount
of grip the tire will have on throttle. Excessive camber values can produce
very high cornering forces but will also significantly reduce tire life, so it
is important to find a balance between life and performance.
TOE-IN
Toe is the angle of the wheel, when viewed from above, relative to the
centerline of the chassis. Positive toe-in is when the front of the wheel is
closer to the centerline than the rear of the wheel, and negative toe-in (toe-
out) is the opposite. On the rear end, adding toe-in will increase straight-
line stability but may hurt how well the car changes direction. The left and
right toe can be adjusted independently, which can be useful for slight
adjustments of the vehicle’s yaw attitude on ovals.
TRACK BAR HEIGHT
The rear axle is held in place laterally via a Track Bar, mounted to the left
side of the rear axle housing and to the chassis frame on the right side.
Overall height of the track bar dictates roll center location for the rear
suspension and thus affects roll stiffness, with a higher track bar increasing
rear roll stiffness and shifting the chassis balance to oversteer. Lower track
bar settings will increase lateral traction due to a reduction in roll
stiffness and roll center height. The track bar end heights can also be set to
different values, known as “rake” or “split”. A positive track bar rake, with
the right-side mounted higher, will increase oversteer on corner exit, as well
as adding skew through vertical travel. Negative track bar rake will increase
traction on corner exit, but will remove skew through vertical travel.
TRUCK ARM MOUNT
The rear axle is held in place longitudinally with two truck arms, mounted to
the bottom of the chassis underneath the driver compartment. The forward
mounts can be adjusted up and down, resulting in various anti-squat and rear-
steer configurations.
Higher truck arm mounts will reduce rear end grip, increase rear steer, add
anti-squat, and reduce wheel hop under heavy braking. Lower truck arm mounts
will increase rear end bite, decrease rear steer, reduce anti-squat, and
increase the chances of wheel hop under heavy braking.
TRUCK ARM PRELOAD
Due to the truck arm mounting design on the rear axle, most chassis
adjustments will result in the truck arms applying a torque to the rear axle
housing. This preload has an extremely small effect on the chassis balance,
but can be removed to eliminate any potential issues. It is good practice to
reset this value to as close to zero as possible after making adjustments.
REAR END
REAR END RATIO
The Rear End Gear Ratio is the ratio between the driveshaft pinion and the
differential ring gear. For all ovals with NASCARsanctioned events, this value
is either locked to one ratio or there is a choice of two ratios. Higher
number values produce better acceleration but reduce top speed, lower number
values reduce acceleration but result in a higher top speed.
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>