Groen 122192 Water Level Control Board User Manual
- June 13, 2024
- groen
Table of Contents
Groen 122192 Water Level Control Board
Product Information
Product Name: All Electric Models and Voltages
Part Number: 158632 REV C (10/22)
Table of Contents:
- Beeper, 120V-240V
- Heater, 208V, 14.4kW (new ver.)
- Heater, 240V, 14.4kW (new ver.)
- Check Valve Assembly
- 1/4 X 4 Long Aluminum Tube
- Hose 5/16 28 Long EPDM
- Hose 3/4 16.75 Long EPDM
- Hose 5/16 12 Long EPDM
- Brass Tee- 1/2 FP
- Brass Elbow Fitting- Hose Barb X 90 Degree Male
- Blockstyle Fitting Compression 90 1/8NPT X 1/4CC Elbow Female 90 Deg
- Gasket, Door HY-5 Silicone
- L1, L2, L3, MC, GND, SSR2, XFMR T1 (480 Unit Only), WHITE, RED, ON PB1, BLK, MC OFF PB2 YEL, OT1, OT4, BRN (Used on 14.4kW Units Only), MC CR1 (Master Contactor), SSR1 (Control Relay 1), TB1 (Heating Element Configuration Select Model Below), CONNECT TO F1 for Auto-Fill Option, VIOLET, CR1 or FUSES (FRN-R5) GRAY, OT2, RED GRAY, OT3, FB F1 F2, BROWN, LT BLUE, AWR (Not Used on 14.4kW), RED AWR (Optional Auto-Fill Control Circuitry)
Product Usage Instructions
-
Before servicing the product, disconnect the AC incoming power to prevent electrical shock.
-
This product does not have any user-serviceable parts inside. Refer servicing to qualified service
personnel only. -
Troubleshooting Guide:
No Lights When ON Is Pressed: Possible causes include facility main breaker, unit ran dry with no water in chamber, F1/F2 fuse, hi-limit (OT-1), MC, CR-1, or N.O. contact ON pushbutton.
Unit Turns ON When ON Pushed
Turns OFF When Released: Possible cause is an auxiliary contact on MC or N.C. contact-OFF pushbutton.
Add Water Light On: Possible causes include not enough water in chamber, build-up (lime) on chamber bottom, OT-2/OT-3 or AWR.
Unit Won’t Heat Up: Possible causes include PS-1, SSR-1/SSR-2 not working in cook mode or steam orifice is blocked.
Heat Stays On (Light Stays On): Normal when the door is open, PS-1, SSR-1/SSR-2 (if door is leaking steam-adjust first).
Heat Stays On (Light Cycles): SSR-1/SSR-2. -
Operating Summary:
- When the timer is at the HOLD position, heat is controlled by the HOLD Thermostat.
- When the timer is at any other position, heat is directly controlled by PS-1 (pressure switch).
- The Convection Fan (CFM) is only on during the cooking cycle.
-
Refer to the wiring diagram for additional information.
-
Important: Do not connect power to L3 on single-phase units. This leg is removed on single-phase units.
-
Disconnect AC incoming power before servicing the product. Refer servicing to qualified personnel only.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
OPERATING SUMMARY
- When the timer is at the HOLD position, heat is controlled by the HOLD Thermostat. When the timer is at any other position, heat is directly controlled by PS-1 (pressure switch). Note: Both COOK and HOLD Mode heat outputs are directed through PS-1.
- It is normal for the Heat Indicator Light to cycle ON and OFF.
- The Convection Fan (CFM) is only on during the cooking cycle.
- REFER TO WIRING DIAGRAM FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
SYMPTOM
- No Lights When ON Is Pressed
- Unit Turns ON When “ON” Pushed- Turns OFF When Released “Add Water” Light On
- Unit Won’t Heat Up:
- w/ Steam Out Exhaust
- w/o Steam Out Exhaust
- Heat Stays On (Light Stays On)
- Heat Stays On (Light Cycles)
POSSIBLE CAUSE
- Facility Main Breaker, Unit Ran Dry- No Water In Chamber, F1/F2 Fuse, Hi-Limit (OT-1), MC, CR-1 or N.O. Contact- ON Pushbutton
- Auxilary Contact on MC, N.C. Contact- OFF Pushbutton
- Not Enough Water In Chamber, Build-Up (Lime) On Chamber Bottom, OT-2/OT-3 or AWR.
- PS-1, SSR-1/SSR-2, CR-2 Not Working In Cook Mode
- Steam Orifice Is Blocked
- Normal When Door Open, PS-1, SSR-1/SSR-2 (If Door Is Leaking Steam- Adjust First)
- SSR-1/SSR-2
DESCRIPTION
WARNING
REFER SERVICING TO QUALIFIED PERSONNEL ONLY. DISCONNECT AC INCOMING POWER BEFORE SERVICING
WIRING DIAGRAM
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Part No. | Description | Part No. | Description |
---|---|---|---|
NT1009 | Heater, 208V, 12kW | NT1096 | Thermocouple |
NT1011 | Heater, 240V, 12kW | NT1037 | Shelf Bracket, Stand |
NT1012 | Heater, 208V, 6.24kW | NT1027 | Pan Bracket- Steamer Bottom |
NT1013 | Heater, 240V, 6.24kW | 170908 | HARNESS, INTEK ELECTRIC, MANUAL FILL |
NT1045 | Heater, 208V, 8.5kW | NT1117 | Steamer Foot, flanged |
NT1046 | Heater, 240V, 8.5kW | NT1104 | Screw, 10-24 x 1/2 SS |
NT1269 | Heater, 208V, 14.4kW | NT1217 | Nutsert |
NT1270 | Heater, 240V, 14.4kW | NT1202 | Brass Reducer, 1/2 x 1/8 |
NT1797 | Heater, 208V, 14.4kW (new ver.) | 161017 | 1/4″ X 4″ LONG ALUMINUM TUBE |
NT1798 | Heater, 240V, 14.4kW (new ver.) | 161100 | HOSE 5/16″ 28″ LONG EPDM |
161099 | BEEPER,120V-240V | 161101 | HOSE 3/4″ 16.75″ LONG EPDM |
NT1067 | DP Contactor, Main Power | 161118 | HOSE 5/16″ 12″ LONG EPDM |
NT1070 | Relay, 220V, Control | NT1200 | BRASS TEE- 1/2 FP |
NT1072 | Fan, Convection (Includes Blade Assy.) | NT1555 | BRASS ELBOW FITTING- |
HOSE BARB X 90
NT1073| Fuse, 5 Amp| | DEGREE MALE- BLOCKSTYLE
NT1075| Thermostat, Hold 100-212 Degrees| Z004584| FITTING COMPRESSION 90
1/8NPT X 1/4CC
NT1076| Lamp, Red| Z050500| ELBOW FEMALE 90 DEG
NT1077| Lamp, Blue| |
NT1078| Lamp, Amber| |
NT1079| Thermostat, Bi-Metal, 325°F| |
NT1080| Thermostat, Bi-Metal 410°F| |
NT1083| Plug, Angle 250V 3PH| |
NT1085| Timer, 60 Minute| |
NT1086| Operator, Switch, PB, On| |
NT1087| Operator, Switch, PB, Off| |
NT1088| Mounting Latch, On/Off Switches| |
NT1089| Contact, NC, Off Switch| |
NT1090| Contact, NO, On Switch| |
NT1091| Switch, Pressure, 1/8″ NPT| |
NT1092| Solid State Relay, 75A, AC Input| |
NT1093| Terminal block, 3-pos.| |
NT1098| Thermometer, Analog 100-220 Degrees| |
NT1155| Aux. Contact, DP Contactor| |
125907| GASKET, DOOR HY-5 SILICONE| |
NT1115| Hinge, one pair| |
NT1144| Magnetic Door Latch| |
NT1175| Stand Caster, 5” Locking| |
NT1176| Stand Caster, 5” Non-locking| |
NT1178| Knob| |
NT1335| Nutplate| |
NT1127| Drain Valve| |
NT1022| Shell/Top| |
NT1023| Right Side, Shell| |
NT1151| Left Side Shell, Louvered| |
161061| Door Assembly, Intek| |
NT1137| Auto Fill Control Board with Probes| |
NT1028| Control Panel Overlay| |
174322| Check Valve Assembly| |
NT1116| Heat Sink| |
NT1132| 3/4 Inch Hose| |
NT1001| Galvanized Bottom Plate| |
NT1003| Heater Plate, Aluminum| |
NT1120| Insulation, Chamber bottom| |
NT1135| Lens, Thermometer| |
NT1537| Inner Door Panel Assembly| |
Extreme Steam Element Field Replacement Instructions
Please Read and Follow the Instruction Below
- Safely remove all power connections, drain lines, and fill lines (if applicable). A stacked unit must be removed from its location (top or bottom) in order to change the element.
- Disconnect the element wires connected to the terminal block.
- Due to the location of the element and the limited space available, you must turn the unit upside down.
- Remove the two side panels.
Removing the Extreme Steam Heating Element
- Step 1:
- Turn the unit upside down and remove the legs using a Crescent Wrench as shown above
- Step 2:
- Remove the drain cover Part# NT1048 and two screws Part# NT1105
- Step 3:
- Remove the (5) drip rails Screws Part# NT 1104
- Step 4:
- Remove the bottom and back panel as seen above
- Step 5:
- Remove insulation Part #1162 shown above
- Step 6:
- Remove sheet insulation Part# 1120
- Step 7:
- Remove the U-Brackets and note tall bracket is in the rear and the short bracket in the front
- Step 8:
- Remove the (6) u-channels Part# NT1014 as seen above
- Step 9:
- Remove Insulation Part# NT1120 from bottom of unit
- Step 10:
- Remove bottom Galvanized Heater Plate Part# 1001
- Step 11:
- Remove the Element and the First Heater Plate
Installing the Extreme Steam Heating Element
- Step 1:
- The heater plate Part #NT1003 needs to be coated on one side withone side with Thermal Transfer compound using a roller brush.
- Step 2:
- Turn the unit upside down and install the first Heater Plate Part# NT1003
- Step 3:
- Slightly bend the element to improve the fit, making sure the edge of the turns are not Hanging over the heater plate and the element isn’t touching the studs at any stud locations
- Step 4:
- Install the galvanized bottom heater plate Part# NT1001
- Step 5:
- Install the red, jumper, long brown, short brown and black wires as seen above
- Step 6:
- Zip tie as seen above
- Step 7:
- Install the left drip rail Part# NT1051 and the right drip rail Part# NT1052. Set in place but do not attach
- Step 8:
- Place the insulation Part # NT1120 as seen on the bottom of the unit
- Step 9:
- Insert (6) u-channels Part# NT1014 as seen above
- Step 10:
- Add insulation and install (4) Part# NT1016 as seen
- Step 11:
- Install the short and tall U-Brackets towards the front of the unit
- Step 12:
- Use LocTite on all the studs prior to tighten the nuts Part# NT1101 Nuts should be tighten with a torque wrench to 80 in/ibs
- Step 13:
- Add Part# NT1120 insulation sheet over the previously tightened brackets
- Step 14:
- Place the back insulation Part# NT1162
- Step 15:
- Place the bottom back on the unit as shown above
- Step 16:
- Install the two pan holders Part# NT1027 and install the legs through the pan holders after applying Loctite. Leave the feet slightly tighten for future adjustment
- Step 17:
- Secure the drip rails using (5) screws Part# NT1104
- Step 18:
- Install the drain valve cover Part# NT1048 using two screws Part# NT1105
- Step 19:
- Complete assembly by tightening the feet using a Cresent Wrench
- Step 20:
- Return unit to its normal upright position and wire elements per wiring diagram
REPLACING NT1098 THERMOMETER ON INTEK XTREME STEAM
- Step 1: Safely remove all power connections
- Step 2: Remove left side panel and remove existing thermometer from front panel
- Step 3: Cut the insulation in halves and slide the bottom half out to expose the bulb and bracket
- Step 4: Remove damaged bulb, replace the thermometer bulb 1098 and apply heat sync compound to the bulb. If bracket is replaced apply heat sync compound to the backside of bracket (Compound does not come with the temperature gauge)
- Step 5: Secure the bracket and bulb using two the 1102 nuts as shown above
- Step 6: Replace the Insulation; install the gauge, and the left side panel. Reconnect power supply
Watlo Heater Amp Reading During Operation
- To receive the proper Ohms per element, disconnect all heater leads from the three position terminal block and test 1L1 to 1L1 – 2L2 to 2L2 – 3L3 to 313
- To read the Amps per unit during normal operation, connect the Amp meter to the incoming power cord leads connecting to the Main Contactor. Amp out each lead.
References
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