TBMBRAKES 001-0208 Afco/Menscer Santhuff 8° and 15° Strut Front Spindle Mount Drag Brakes Instruction Manual
- June 13, 2024
- TBMBRAKES
Table of Contents
WWW.TBMBRAKES.COM 800-878-9274
AFCO/MENSCER/SANTHUFF 8° & 15° STRUT FRONT SPINDLE MOUNT DRAG BRAKES
(001-0208)
Parts List
| 2| Revolution Rotors – 10.75 / 0.280 / 5 on 6.25”
Part Number: 3-107531255625D
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| 2| Hat, Spindle Mount, .795 HT
Part Number: 204-0211
| 2| DR-1 Caliper, 1.75” Diameter Piston, .3125” Rotor
Part Number: 002-0044SSP-1 & 002-0044SSP-2
| 2| DR-1 to 10.75” Spindle Mount Caliper Bracket
Part Number: 16-0219-1 & 16-0219-2
| 4| F1 / DR-1 Replacement Pads (full set) – #1
Part Number: 6-1019
Hardware List 011 – 0208
| 10| Bolt, 3/8-16 X 1, 12 PT, Plated
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| 10| Bolt, 5/16-18 X 5/8”
| 4| Bolt, 3/8-24 X 1
| 4| Flat Washer, 3/8”
| 4| Lockwasher, 3/8”
| 10| Shim, Steel, .010TK, 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD
| 10| Shim, Steel, .031TK, 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD
| 4| C-Sunk Flat Head Allen, 3/8-24 x 1”
| 2| C-Sunk Flat Head Allen, 3/8-24 x 1/2”
| 2| Nut, 3/8-24, HI GR 8, Plain
| 2| Spacer 1.93” OD X 1.25” ID, .125”
| 6| Spindle Mount Hat Shim .032”
Step 1. Mount the rotor hat using the 3/8-16 12 PT Bolts then torque to factory wheel manufacures spec.
Note: If caliper to wheel clearence is needed use supplied hat shims (.032″). Often found on 17″ wheels
Step 3: Lay the wheel face down and place the flat side of rotor on the hat.
Step 4: Apply Red Loctite to the 5/16-18 X 5/8″ Hex Head Bolts, torque to 18 ft-lbs. (Important: Do not Loctite or torque bolts until proper fitment is achieved)
Step 5: Pack inner bearing with grease and insert into back side of wheel, Place the bearing spacer on the bearing and install Strange style seal supplied with your wheels.
Step 6. Mount the caliper bracket using the 3/8-24 Flat Head Allen in the lower hole and 3/8-24 Flat Head Allen and Nut in the upper hole, then torque to factory spec.
Step 7. Pack outer bearing and install in wheel. Install wheel and rotor assembly onto the spindle and secure with the washer and castle nut.
Step 8: Slide the caliper as a whole over the rotor and mount it to the bracket. Snug the 3/8-24 bolts, lock washer, and washer. Check for proper radial and horizontal clearance between the rotor and the caliper. Also check for parallelism with the caliper to rotor face, some struts (especially struts with welded caliper mounts) require different shimming between the upper and lower caliper bolts to achieve parallelism.
Step 9: Remove the pad retainer bolt (if already inserted). Insert the
brake pads from the top of the caliper and reinsert the pad retainer bolt.
Hold the pads against the caliper housing. Spin the rotor assembly to check
for contact between the rotor and brake pads. There should be no contact
between the rotor and pads. Be sure to tighten the pad retainer bolt once pads
are installed.
Step 10: If there is pad to rotor contact, determine which side is causing the interference. Shim the caliper or the bracket as needed using the supplied shim kit to center the caliper and ensure the caliper is parallel to the rotor. What is required for one side of the car may not be the same as the other side. Check each side individually
Step 11: Verify the pad material is sitting in the proper location in relation to top of the rotor. [Flush +/-.06″]
Step 12: Go back and torque the caliper mounting hardware to 37 ft-lbs and verify that the bleeder screws are mounted in the top position. (See image below)
Step 13: Connect the brake lines check for interference with any suspension or driveline components. (All caliper fittings are -3AN)
Step 14: Bleed the entire brake system and verify proper caliper operation and release.
NOTE: This kit will have addional hardware leftover that is used on other brand spindles.
If technical support/info is needed, please contact us at
800-878-9274 or
info@tbmbrakes.com
TBM Brakes · 1906 59th Terrace E · Bradenton, FL 34203
Updated: 12/22
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More Info
Caliper Direction: Calipers are labeled -1 and -2 with bleeders and fittings mirrored of each other. These don’t indicate left or right; please ensure that the bleeder is mounted at the highest point.
- 002-0044SSP-1
- MOUNT WITH BLEEDERS UP
- 002-0044SSP-2
Acceptable Pad Thickness: Any time pads are <.100″ thickness, we advise replacing them.
Rotor Replacement: Our main concern is rotor flatness. This dictates the performance of the rotor. For rotor thickness concerns please reach out to us directly at 800-878-9274 as rotor thickness varies on each rotor style.
Fluid: We recommend using TBM Extreme 6 High Performance DOT 5.1 brake fluid on any and all TBM brakes. This fluid is compatible with Dot 3 and Dot 4 fluid without having to drain your fluid system if you are not able to get your hands on TBM brake fluid. DO NOT ever use DOT 5 brake fluid as it is silicone based and will cause the seals to swell, hindering brake performance and life.
Bearing Grease: If your TBM Brakes utilize a hub that uses greasable bearings, we suggest using any Premium Moly style grease. Our brakes ship with standard Timken bearings which are able to be used with normal bearing grease. Using this grease will still promote our no drag benefits.
Replacement Bearings: We use standard readily available Timken Part Number bearings in our kits to make replacement and servicing easy. In the event you need replacement bearings, use the part numbers listed in the kit instructions for reorder.
Loctite Hardware: We recommend Red Loctite on any and all hardware used in brake applications. Please follow proper procedures in cleaning and drying hardware and surfaces before applying to ensure proper results.
Flipping Rotors: Our rotors are designed to be flipped either direction when mounting; they are non-directional. Flipping the rotors allows you to utilize the offset either direction for properly centering/spacing the rotor and caliper package.
Replacement Hardware: Please note we only sell hardware as complete kits. The hardware kit number listed in the instructions above.
Cleaning Brakes: The unique color and finish on TBM Brakes is an Electroless Nickel process that is extremely durable. Cleaning electroless nickel parts is easiest by using household stainless steel appliance cleaner. Spray parts, let sit for 60 seconds, and wipe off. We recommend removing pads prior to using this cleaner and cleaning rotors off with brake cleaner after you’ve finished cleaning electroless nickel parts to avoid any chemicals that can adversely affect braking conditions.
Caliper Maintenance: Our calipers are engineered, designed, and built to be the most durable calipers on the market. We have customers with over 30 years of abuse on calipers with several reseals and rebuilds throughout. We recommend sending calipers used heavily in every 2 seasons for a cleaning, inspection, and rebuild process. During this time we pressure and leak check the calipers. Any caliper sitting more than 1 year with fluid should be sent in for reseal as seals can become compromised. Please contact us directly to arrange maintenance at 800-878-9274.
Rotor Maintenance: Over time, pad transfer will build up unevenly on the rotor face. This can result in high spots on the rotor, excessive pad knock- back, inconsistent pedal feel, and/or a decrease in brake torque. It is good practice to routinely clean the pad swept face of the rotors with 80 grit on a dual-action sander or with one of our rotor hones. This can be done as part of a pre-race weekend routine, or something you keep an eye on and work into your mid-season routine. After cleaning the rotor face you will want to follow the bedding procedure to lay a new transfer layer of material down onto the rotor.
Bedding Procedures: When bedding a new set of pads and rotors you are looking to transfer an even layer of pad material onto the rotor. At the drag strip, this can be done by making 2-3 passes and getting on the brakes as you would on any other pass. Getting firmly on the brakes for a second or two to scrub-off speed then off them completely. Get back on them firmly to make the turn, then try your best to come to a stop on the return road without applying a lot of brake. With the rotors hot, coming to a complete stop with a heavy foot can result in high spotting the brake material on the rotors. If trying to bed new pads and rotors away from the racetrack, it is recommended to do so in a safe and controlled environment. Decelerate quickly 4-5 times from roughly 35-5 mph. Trying not to come to a complete stop. Then, decelerate quickly 4-5 times from 50-15 mph. Trying not to come to a complete stop. If the area permits, drive a 1/4 mile dragging the brakes slightly at safe speeds. Then drive an equal distance or more without getting on the brakes, giving the rotors time to cool before coming to a stop. From here, you should notice pad material starting to evenly lay across the pad swept face of the rotor.
Proper Caliper Shimming: Every TBM brake kit comes with several mil-spec
shims. These are available to you for a couple of reasons:
1. They can be used to shim the caliper off of the bracket or the bracket
off of the spindle in order to get the rotor centered in the caliper. Getting
the rotor perfectly centered in the caliper is desired but can be offset
slightly inboard or outboard. Making sure the pads fall in the caliper freely
and there is no caliper to rotor clearance issues is the most important.
2. The next important use of the shims is to shim the caliper so it is
perfectly parallel with the rotor. This may result in having more shims behind
one of the fasteners to achieve this.
3. With the potential tolerance stack up across all the components
getting mounted to the spindle, it can be common to need to shim the caliper
to make it parallel to the rotor. (What might be required on one side of the
vehicle may differ on the opposing side.) *This is a critical step. If a
caliper is mounted off parallel, the pistons will bind under load, and will
not be able to retract properly.
Tip: Once you have the calipers where you think they should be, bleed the brake system. Once bled, loosen the caliper mounting bolts so the caliper can “float”. Apply pressure to the brake pedal and if the caliper moves/ twists, that is where the caliper wants to be under load. It is making itself parallel with the rotor. Shim the caliper off of the mounts so it stays there and tighten everything back up.