Shaw Floors DH41101087 Repel Water Resistant Hardwood Flooring Installation Guide

Shaw Floors DH41101087 Repel Water Resistant Hardwood Flooring

IMPORTANT INFORMATION BEFORE YOU BEGIN
IT’S EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you read and understand this information completely prior to starting since improper installation can void the warranties.

INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY

Carefully inspect ALL material prior to installation for defects. Materials installed with visible defects are not covered under warranty. Remember – Wood is a natural product that can vary in color, and grain, and contains natural characteristics that vary from plank to plank and are to be expected. We do not warrant against these natural variations from plank to plank or variations from sample to plank. Remember – If you are not satisfied with the flooring prior to installation, contact your dealer – DO NOT INSTALL the flooring. Accepting or rejecting the material must be done on full shipment of quantities only, not carton by carton or plank by plank. Material is manufactured to exceed industry standards (ANSI/HPVA EF 2009).

• We urge you, as the final inspector to inspect for proper color, finish, style, and quality PRIOR to installation.
• Verify that the flooring is the correct material. Care should be taken at this time to remove or repair particular characteristics you do not desire.
• The manufacturer declines responsibility for any costs incurred when plank(s) with visible defects have been installed.
• The use of stain, filler, or putty stick for the correction of minor defects during installation should be accepted as a normal procedure.
• 5% cutting allowance, depending on layout, must be added to the actual square footage amount needed.
• (Diagonal, herringbone, or bordered installations will require a higher percentage).
• Install cabinets prior to looking to prevent damage to the flooring. Shaw is not responsible for the removal of cabinets in the event of a claim.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED

• Broom or vacuum
• Tape Measure
• Chalk Line & Chalk
• Hammer
• Moisture Meter
• Hand Saw
• Electric Miter
• Pry Bar
• Safety Glasses
• Color Wood Filler
• Saw/Table Saw
• NIOSH designated
• Dust Mask

CAUTION: WOOD DUST
The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen. The sawing, sanding, and/or machining of wood products can produce wood dust that can cause respiratory, eye, and skin irritations. Equipment should be equipped with a dust collector to reduce airborne wood dust. Wear an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask to reduce exposure to airborne wood dust. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes. In cases of severe irritation; seek immediate medical attention. For further technical or installation questions or to request a Product Specification Data Sheet contact the manufacturer.

WARNING
Drilling, sawing, sanding, or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.govtwood

PRE-INSTALLATION & JOBSITE CONDITIONS

It is the installer/owners’ responsibility to ensure that the Jobsite conditions and Jobsite subfloor are environmentally and structurally acceptable prior to the installation of any hardwood flooring. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for failures or deficiencies of hardwood flooring resulting from or related to sub-floor, sub-surface, or job- site environmental conditions. All substrates must be clean, flat, dry, and structurally sound.

• Subfloors must be clean and free of dirt, curing compounds, sealers, drywall mud, paint, wax, grease, urethane, or other materials that may affect the integrity of the flooring material or adhesives used to install the flooring.
• All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer’s recommendations. Local building codes may only establish minimum requirements of the flooring system and may not provide adequate rigidity and support for the proper installation and performance of a hardwood floor. Whenever possible install the planks perpendicular to the floor joists for maximum stability. Our warranties DO NOT cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures.
• Test wood subfloors and wood flooring for moisture content using a pin-type moisture meter. Take readings of the subfloor – minimum of 20 readings per 1000 sq. ft. and average the results. In most regions, a “dry” subfloor that is ready to work on has a moisture content of 12% or less and the wood should be within 4% of the subfloor moisture content.
• ASTM F-2170 – in-situ relative humidity – 85% RH or less is acceptable. ASTM 1869 – 5.0 lbs. or less is acceptable.
• Readings greater than 85% RH or 5.0 lbs. require the use of a proper vapor retarder or adhesive/moisture abatement system
• Before moisture testing begins, the slab must be cured for a minimum of 30 days.
• Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. The use of 6 mils black polyethylene is required to cover 100% of the crawl space on earth. Crawl space clearance from ground to underside of the joist to be no less than 18” and perimeter vent spacing should be equal to 1.5% of the total square footage of the crawl space area to provide cross ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations prevail.
• The subfloor must be at, meeting a minimum of 3/16” within 10’ or 1/8” in 6’.

Concrete/Wood subfloors – Grind high spots or use gypsum-based patching and/or leveling compounds that contain Portland or high alumina cement and meet or exceed the compressive strength of 3,000 psi is acceptable. Follow the leveling compound manufacturer’s instructions.  Leveling compounds must be allowed to thoroughly cure and dry prior to the installation of wood flooring.

• All “wet” work – i.e. – paint, drywall, concrete, masonry, and plumbing must be complete and dry well in advance of delivery of hardwood flooring
• Gutters and downspouts should be in place and the exterior grade complete to allow for proper drainage of water away from the building’s exterior perimeter.
• Flooring should not be exposed to extremes of humidity or moisture.
• Permanent HVAC should be on and operational for a minimum of 5 days and maintained between 65 – 75 degrees and relative humidity of 35%- 55% prior to delivery, during, and after installation of the flooring.
• If HVAC is not possible at the time of installation the environmental conditions must be at or near normal living conditions between 60 – 80 degrees and at
  the average yearly relative humidity for the area.

It is the Installer/Owner’s responsibility to ensure that the conditions are acceptable prior to the installation of the hardwood floors. The manufacturer declines any and all problems with the hardwood flooring that are related to or attributed to improper Jobsite conditions.

RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES

Concrete Sub or Guidelines
Concrete slabs should be of high compressive strength and constructed to prevent groundwater from permeating the concrete. Engineered hardwood |ooring can be installed on, above, or below grade. In addition, it can be installed over above-ground, suspended concrete floors. The suspended concrete must be a minimum of 1 1/2 inches thick and must be structurally sound. The exception to this is lightweight concrete (which usually contains high amounts of gypsum) having a density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot. Test for lightweight concrete by using a nail to scratch the surface of the concrete. If the concrete crumbles or turns to powder, it is not sound and you should NOT install the hardwood flooring.

Wood Subfloors Guidelines
Subfloor panels should conform to U.S. Voluntary Product Standard PS1-07, Construction and Industrial Plywood and/or US Voluntary PS 2-04 and/or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325.0-92 Construction Sheathing. Other CSA standards also apply.

• Acceptable Panel Subfloors: Truss/joist spacing will determine the minimum acceptable thickness of the panel sub|ooring.
• On truss/joist spacing of 16” o/c or less the industry standard for single panel sub|ooring is a minimum of 5/8” 19/32”, 15.1 mm) CD Exposure 1 sub|oor panels, 4×8 sheets.
• On truss/joist spacing of more than 16”, up to 19.2” (488mm) o/c, the standard is nominal ¾” (23/32”, 18.3 mm) T&G CD Exposure 1 Plywood sub|oor panels, (Exposure 1) or nominal ¾” 23/32”, (18.3mm) OSB Exposure 1 sub|oor panels, 4’x8’ sheets, glued and mechanically fastened.
• Truss/joist systems spaced over more than 19.2” (488mm) o/c up to a maximum of 24” (610mm) require a minimum of 7/8” T&G CD Exposure 1 Plywood subfloor panels, (Exposure 1), or a minimum of 7/8” OSB Exposure 1 sub|oor panels, 4’x8’ sheets glued and mechanically fastened – or two layers of sub-flooring or brace between the truss/joist in accordance with the truss/joist manufacturer’s recommendations and with local building codes. Some truss/joist systems cannot be cross-braced and still maintain stability.
• For existing wood floors install new flooring at right angles to the existing flooring.
• Do not glue down hardwood flooring over particle board.
• Do not install over existing glue-down hardwood floors.

WARNING: DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEAD BLAST, OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT ASPHALTIC “CUTBACK” ADHESIVES, OR OTHER ADHESIVES.

These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm.  Unless positively certain that the product is a no asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal and disposal of material.  See the current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.rfci.com

Ceramic tile and terrazzo: All wax and sealers must be removed with an appropriate cleaner/stripper. Ceramic tile and terrazzo should be abraded to allow for proper adhesion. Check for loose tiles by tapping and re-adhere. Fill grout lines with a cementitious latex fortified leveling compound.

Resilient tile, resilient sheet vinyl: Material must be fully spread and secured to the subfloor. Do not install over perimeter glued floors. Do not install over more than one layer that exceeds 1/8” in thickness.

Glue Down Only – Do not install over more than one layer that exceeds 1/8” in thickness. Clean flooring with an appropriate cleaner and allow to thoroughly dry. If necessary deg loss the floor using an abrasive pad to enhance the bonding of the adhesive, if wax or other coatings are present, completely remove the material with a quality stripper, rinse the floor and allow it to dry. Always check for proper adhesion bond prior to installing.

CAUTION: DO NOT SAND any existing resilient tile, sheet vinyl flooring, or flooring felt as they may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause serious bodily harm. Check local, state, and federal laws for handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

Acoustic Cork Underlayment: (Glue Down Only) – Install the cork underlayment according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The cork underlayment must fully adhere to the subfloor. The cork underlayment should be of pure granulated cork combined with a polyurethane binder with a minimum density of 11.4 lbs. per cubic foot and not to exceed 13 lbs. per cubic foot.

PRE-INSTALLATION/JOB PREPARATION

Inspect the Flooring: Inspect material for color, finish, milling, and grade. Hold out pieces that may not be acceptable once installed. PLEASE NOTE: We do not accept responsibility for any costs incurred when plank(s) with visible defects have been permanently installed.

Undercut Door Casings: Undercut all door casings 1/16″ higher than the thickness of the flooring being installed. To do this, use a scrap piece of flooring as a guide. Lay it on the substrate and cut the casing with a handsaw or use a power jamb saw set at the correct height.

Blending of Cartons: To achieve a uniform appearance across the entire floor, we highly recommend that you open and work from several cartons at a time and dry-lay the flooring, mixing the planks from several cartons. This will allow you to blend the planks for maximum aesthetic appearance. Make certain the room is well lit to ensure the color is consistent and that any visual defects can be seen and removed.

Match Transition Moldings: For best appearance blend all transitions and moldings to planks that have similar color and graining. Set them aside for use as needed.

The layout of Flooring: “Racking the Floor” is essential to achieve a random appearance. Start by either using random-length planks found in the carton or by cutting four or {ve planks in random lengths, differing by at least six inches. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance. Never waste materials; the end cuts from starter rows should be used at the opposite side of the room to complete rows or used to start the next row.

Expansion space: Expansion space around the perimeter is required and should be equal to the thickness of the flooring material. For commercial installations use a minimum of ½” expansion

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Additional Tools Material Needed

• Shaw Urethane Adhesive Clean White Rags
• Mineral Spirits/Urethane Adhesive Remover Adhesive Trowel
• Straight Edge

NOTE: REFER TO THE ADHESIVE LABEL FOR PROPER TROWEL REQUIRED, SPREAD RATES, AND INSTALLATION APPLICATION INFORMATION.

INSTALLATION FOR THE GLUE-DOWN METHOD REQUIRES THE USE OF SHAW 35MC OR DMC 140. ADHESIVE MUST BE APPLIED WITH THE ATTACHED BLADE AT THE 30-35 SQ. FT. SPREAD RATE WHEN INSTALLING OVER CONCRETE SUBFLOORS

Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre- Installation Job Prep information above.

Getting Started

1. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it’s most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the width of two planks including the tongue plus the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion.
2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
3. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece of lumber or a piece of flooring. Alternatively, the first row can be face-nailed with finishing nails into the wood subfloor or sprig nailed into a concrete floor.

Spreading the Adhesive
Using the proper trowel, hold the trowel at a 45° angle to ensure the proper spread rate of adhesive. Apply pressure to allow the trowel to leave ridges of adhesive on the substrate with little adhesive left between the ridges. This will help to achieve the proper spread rate of the adhesive. Temperature and air flow across the adhesive can have an effect on the open time of the adhesive. Urethanes) will have a longer open time in areas of low humidity and will have a shorter open time in areas of high humidity. (See Adhesive label for further information). Installing the Floor

• Spread adhesive from the chalk line/straightedge out to approximately the width of two planks. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure them into position with the tongue facing the starter wall.

NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring. When you have the starter rows complete, you can begin the next row

• When you are certain the first two starter rows are straight and secure, spread adhesive 2 to 3 feet wide across the length of the room. As a general rule, never spread more adhesive than can be covered in 30 to 45 minutes. If the adhesive has skinned over remove the dried adhesive and trowel the new adhesive.
• Continue to install planks and push them into place. Place the tongue of the board into the grooves of installed boards and press it into the adhesive. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.

NOTE: Never strike a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This practice can damage the flooring and/or the finish.

• Remove the adhesive from the surface of the installed flooring as you work – this will help to save time. A damp rag with water or mineral spirits will remove the adhesive. Frequently change towels to avoid leaving a haze on the flooring surface. DO NOT use water to remove Urethane adhesives from the finish.
• As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion space along the end wall. Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.
• After the floor is complete remove the straight edge and glue down the first two boards.
• Restrict foot traf{c for a minimum of 6-8 hours and wait 24 hours before permitting moving of furniture onto the floor.
• Clean any wet adhesive from the flooring with a lightly dampened clean cloth. If the adhesive has dried, use mineral spirits on a clean cloth. For Urethane, adhesive use the recommended urethane adhesive remover.
• If specified in the adhesive instructions roll and cross roll floor with 100-150 lbs. (45-70 kg) roller at the end of the installation to ensure proper transfer of adhesive.
• When installing un{nished wood |ooring, wait a minimum of 72 hours before sanding.

NAIL OR STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Additional Tools and Material Needed

• Drill
• Air Hose
• 15 lb. Roofers Felt
• Tapping Block
• In-line Air Regulator
• Compressor
• Pneumatic Nailer/Stapler

Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre- Installation Job Prep information above.

NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping, or crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. Some squeaking, popping, or crackling is normal and possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions.

SET UP AND USE OF PNEUMATIC STAPLERS AND NAILERS

Minor occasional noises within the flooring are inherent to all staple/nail- down installations and can change as environmental changes occur. This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered under our warranties (see warranty brochure for complete warranty coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation. You should also be sure that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct nailing schedule. For products greater than 5” in width, it is recommended to use a combination glue down assist when using mechanical fasteners. Apply a urethane-based adhesive to the subfloor prior to installing the planks. Follow the standard fastener schedule. *This installation method doesn’t require the use of a traditional vapor retarder, which enables the glue to adhere to the subfloor rather than the paper. When used improperly, staples or cleats can damage wood flooring. If the tool is not adjusted properly the staples/cleats may not be positioned at the proper angle and cause blistering, peaking, squeaking, or crackling of the floor. Some models may require the use of an adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the tool on a piece of scrap material set the stapler/nailbrush on the tongue side of the plank and install a staple/cleat. Should the staple/cleat penetrate too deeply reduce the air pressure; if the staple/cleat is not deep enough then increase the air pressure using an in-line regulator. The crown of the staple/cleat should sit within the nail pocket to prevent damage to the flooring and to reduce squeaking. The flooring manufacturer is not responsible for damage caused by the mechanical fasteners.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Only use the manufacturer’s recommended staples or cleats.

• 3/8” PRODUCTS
• For products less than 5” the minimum length staple/cleat is 1”
• For products 5” or wider the minimum length staple/cleat is 1 ¼”
• 18 to 20 gauge staple, narrow 3/8” or less crown
• 20 gauge L-shaped cleat
• ½” PRODUCTS
• The minimum length fastener is 1 ¼” staple/cleat

Glue Assist – For products greater than 5” in width, it is recommended to use a combination glue down assist when using mechanical fasteners. Apply a urethane-based wood |ooring adhesive to the subfloor prior to installing the planks. Follow the standard fastener schedule. *This installation method doesn’t require the use of a traditional vapor retarder, which enables the glue to adhere to the subfloor rather than the paper. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the complete set-up and operation of equipment.

Getting Started

1. After the sub|oor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the sub|oor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the floor clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications).

2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it’s most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the overall width of the plank (board width + tongue + the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).

3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.

4.  Install the {first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure them into position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every 6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure planks with 1” {nishing nails. Countersink nails and {ll with appropriate colored wood {ller – remove excess {ller from the surface.

5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end joints and every 6” in between along the length of the starter boards (Predrill holes to make this easier). Depending on the width of the flooring it may be necessary to do this for the {first few rows prior to using a pneumatic stapler/nailer.
   NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
   Installing the Floor

6. Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and every (3”– 4” staples) or (4” Cleats) thereafter. Make certain the tool is adjusted properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and is used within the nail pocket. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.

7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together until the tongue-and-groove is |ush and tight and no gaps are present between
   adjacent planks.
   NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the |ooring to engage the tongue and groove. This can damage the flooring and/or finish.

8.  As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall. Once the {nal cuts are made set planks into place.

9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the {nal planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-nail through the surface of the {nal planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the |oor and blind nail using l” {nishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face every 6” (try to drill holes in darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” {fnishing nails. Countersink nails and {ll with appropriate colored wood {ller – remove excess {ller from a surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.

FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PRODUCTS 3” OR WIDER ONLY)

Additional tools & materials needed

• Shaw T&G Adhesive
• Terry Cloth towels
• Foam underlayment
• Pry/Pull Bar
• Hardwood Floor Cleaner/Shaw R2X
• 6 Mil Poly Plastic Sheeting
• Tapping Block & Spacers
• 2in1 Underlayment

Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre- Installation Job Prep information above.

• Mil Polyethylene is not required over vinyl, wood, or a wood product sub|oor.
• Mil Polyethylene is required over concrete-type subfloors on grade or below grade.
• Do not install over the carpet. If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the subfloor.
• Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl.
• If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at right angles to the wood floor. Secure creaking and lost floorboards with screws.
• Do not install over wood flooring glued to a concrete subfloor. ½” of expansion space is required at all vertical surfaces.

Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to the width of the expansion space for every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’in length or width – it is recommended to use a T-Molding for proper expansion.

Getting Started

1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of the |ooring and underlayment to be installed. Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a hand saw or power jamb saw set to the correct height.

2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the flooring). The last row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½” wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a narrow last row.

3. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it’s most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each end, the overall
   width of the plank plus ½” for expansion. If the first row requires ripping then measure from the wall the width of the ripped board plus ½” for expansion.

4. Snap a chalk line using (brightly colored chalk) from these points.

5. Install Underlayment: Unroll the 6 mils. Poly sheeting overlapping edges 4” and seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow the poly to run 2” up the wall
   and trim back after installation of |ooring. Install 1/8” foam underlayment.
   Note: Use a floating floor 2 in 1 underlayment may be used. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for application installing the 2 in 1
   underlayment.

6. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter board) inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting
   during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece of lumber or a piece of flooring. This is temporary and will be replaced as the |oor is
   completed.
   Installing the Floor

7. Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and the wall.

8. Before starting to glue planks, dry lay the first two rows of flooring. Working from right to left, install planks so that the groove faces the straight edge (starter board). When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary On the first 4 rows stagger end joints a minimum of 16” and then 8” thereafter.

9. Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second row. If the piece is less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use that piece to start the second row.

10. Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row. Make sure that the rows are straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends. Once you have dry
    laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in order. You are ready to begin.

11. Begin gluing the boards; Run a continuous bead of adhesive along the groove of the short side (width) and the plank’s side groove (length). Proper
    alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.

12. Install the first row of planks with the groove facing the straight edge. Work from right to left. Complete the first row. Make sure there are no gaps between the
    boards. Use a tapping block if needed to close the boards together. Immediately wipe away any excess adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth.
    CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the {nish surface can be dif{cult to remove and may leave a haze.

13. At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the planks tight.

14. Continue to install the floor working right to left, repeating the process until the completion of the floor. Continue to use the spacers on all vertical
    surfaces to maintain the ½” expansion. DO NOT USE laminate straps as they may damage the flooring

15. The last row will most likely require cutting to width but it should be no less than 1 ½” wide. To do this, lay the plank face up on top of the last full row installed. Trace the wall contour on the last plank using a scrap piece of plank and a pencil.

16. Install cut planks and pull them into place with a pry bar. Install spacing wedges between planks and wall.

17. Remove the straight edge (starter row) and install the last row using the pry bar. Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all spacing wedges and allowing foot traffic.

18. Install trim and moldings the following day.

RADIANT HEATED SUBFLOORS

Refer to the Website or Sample board to confirm as an approved product. Non Approved products are not warranted for use over Radiant Heat

• Prior to the installation of flooring over a radiant heat system, it is important that the guidelines are followed in strict accordance. Failure to follow the guidelines may produce unsatisfactory results.
• Floating installation method only, direct glue down is NOT recommended.
• Subfloor must be at to 3/16” in 10’ or 1/8” in 6’
• Prior to installation moisture testing must be conducted and documented per ASTM test method 1869-89 for concrete or using a pin-type meter for wood subfloors.
• The moisture content for concrete subfloors registered after a calcium chloride test must not be greater than 2 pounds per 1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, DO NOT install the flooring.
• Relative humidity of the job site must be maintained between 35-55% relative humidity. The use of a humidor cation system may be required to maintain the proper humidity level. Failure to maintain proper humidity levels can result in excessive dryness of flooring.
• It is highly recommended that the radiant heat system be designed specifically to accept a wood floor.

1. Use of an in-floor temperature sensor as well as a separate thermostat for the individual room is required.
2. An outdoor temperature sensor should be used to adjust water temperature according to anticipated heat loss.

JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS

Prior to the installation of flooring, the radiant system must be installed per the manufacturer’s instructions. Before installation of flooring material the following conditions are required

1. The moisture content of concrete must not exceed 2.0 lbs. per CaCl test method (ASTM1869-89) Wood sub|oors not to exceed 12% and be within 4% of the wood flooring.
2. Concrete must be allowed to properly cure and dry a minimum of 4 weeks prior to the operation of the radiant heat system.
3. Operation of radiant heat system should be set to run at 2/3 maximum output for a minimum of 2 weeks prior to the installation of flooring to further allow moisture from concrete to dissipate and reach a final moisture content. This must be done in both heating and non-heating seasons.
4. Prior to installation (4 days) reduce to a temperature of 65°.
5. Floating Installation: Install flooring according to floating floor installation guidelines. Use of a 2-in-1 underlayment is required.
6. When gluing planks run a continuous bead of adhesive in the groove on both the end and length of the board.
7. Remove any excess glue that squeezes out onto the surface of the planks with a clean damp rag. Change rags and water periodically to avoid leaving a haze
   on surface.

AFTER INSTALLATION & SEASONAL OPERATION

• 48 hours after completion of installation, slowly raise the temperature of the heating system to its preferred operating level over a period of 5 days. Do not allow the surface temperature to exceed 80°.
• The humidity level must be maintained between 35%-55% R.H.
• Seasonal gapping should be expected.
• Surface checking can be expected if the proper humidity level is not properly maintained between 35-55% R. H. or if the floor’s surface temperature exceeds 80°.

COMPLETING THE JOB – ALL INSTALLATIONS

• Sweep or vacuum the floor.
• Clean the floor with proper hardwood floor cleaner.
• Install transition pieces -i.e. – thresholds, t-moldings, baseboards, and quarter round. Nail moldings to the wall, not the floor.
• Inspect the final floor for nicks and or minor gaps all with appropriate color wood putty.
• Unused material should be left with the owner and stored in a dry place in case of future repairs are needed.
• Use plywood or hardboard when moving heavy appliances or furniture across the floor.

Final Inspection: After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches, gaps, or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products. In typical climates, the new floor can accept foot traffic within 24 hours. In areas where additional curing time is required, more time may be needed.

Floor Protection During Construction
After installation, if you choose to protectively cover the |oor, cover the |oor completely, since some species are light-sensitive and uncovered areas may change color. Use a covering material with a vapor permeance (perm rating) of 1 perm or more (tested in accordance with ASTM E-96) to avoid trapping moisture/vapor on or within the floor. Do not use tape to secure floor protection during construction or renovation. Use ram board or similar to protect the floor.

Floor Care and Maintenance
New hardwood floors represent a substantial flooring investment and with proper care, the appearance and performance of your Shaw hardwood floor can be maintained over time.

A total care program consists of key areas:

• Post Construction Maintenance
• Preventative Maintenance
• Routine Maintenance
• Spot and Spill Removal.

Post Construction Maintenance

• Dry mop floor using a microfiber mop pad or appropriate floor vacuum to remove dust particulate from the floor.

• Spray neutral pH cleaner, such as Shaw Hard Surface Cleaner or Bona Wood Floor Cleaner, onto the floor in a manageable area (spray mist will dry
  quickly). Use a microfiber damp mop pad to mop the floor with cleaner. If the pad becomes dirty, be sure to replace the pad with a new microfiber wet mop
  pad. Work floor in sections.

• Always rinse the floor by spray misting water on a microfiber mop pad meant for wet mopping (make sure there is no dripping water).

• In the event that drywall dust/construction dust is mopped with water only, a residue film will appear on the floor after drying. Use the process below to remove the film from the floor.

The process to remove construction residue or cloudy film from hardwood flooring

• Dry mop floor to remove any construction dust or exterior soil tracked onto the flooring. Use micro {ber dry mop pad. If micro {ber dry mop pad gets
  dirty, replace the pad with a clean pad.

• Spray neutral pH cleaner, such as Shaw Hard Surface Cleaner or Bona Wood Floor Cleaner, onto the floor in a manageable area (spray mist will dry
  quickly). Work floor in sections. For embossed or textured flooring, use a cylindrical brush scrubber, such as the Clark MA10 12E Scrubber, and a neutral pH
  cleaner applied to the floor to remove the residue film.

• Spray mist water on a microfiber mop pad meant for wet mopping so it is damp (make sure there is no dripping water). Mop the floor to remove any remaining residue from the flooring. When the wet mop pad becomes dirty, be sure to replace the pad with a new micro ber wet mop pad.

• Repeat steps #2 and #3, if necessary.

• When the hardwood flooring is cleaned properly, the floor will have the same visual as right out of the box!

Preventative Maintenance

• Always protect floors from direct exposure to sunlight that can cause the wood or stain to change colors.
• Warranties do not cover damage from UV exposure. Recommended humidity levels are between 35% R.H. – 55% R.H.
• Protect floors when moving heavy objects to prevent permanent scratches and tears.
• The use of Ram Board or equivalent and cardboard are examples of protective barriers.
• Use appropriate wide floor protectors under tables, chairs, and any other heavy home furnishing to avoid permanent damage.
• As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.
• Walk-off mats should be used at all entrances to absorb soil and moisture.
• The use of appropriate mats will help avoid scratches and damage to the floor.
• It mats are placed directly on top of the hardwood floors, use proper indoor mats.
• Mats that can trap moisture underneath have the potential to cause possible discoloration.
• Latex and rubber backings should not be used. Area rugs are recommended in high traffic and pivot areas.
• Avoid shoes with spiked or damaged heels. Also Keep pets paws and nails cleaned and trimmed.

Routine Maintenance

• Daily removal of dirt and dust is important to prevent particles from abrading the floor’s surface.
• Sweeping, dust mopping, and vacuuming are recommendations to remove soil particles that can result in scratches and worn appearances.
• Do not use vacuums with rotating beater bars on hard surfaces.
• Shaw’s R2x Hard Surfaces Flooring Cleaner and Shaw’s EPA/Dfe Green Formula Hard Surfaces Flooring Cleaner are recommended for general spotting and cleaning.
• Periodic cleaning will be necessary to help maintain the floor’s appearance.
• Always pre-vacuum or dust mop before any type of cleaning.
• Shawe’s Hard Surface cleaner or appropriate hardwood floor cleaning agents (neutral pH cleaners) are recommended.
• Do not use abrasive cleaners or cleaning agents that leave dull residues on the surface of the floors.
• Never wet mop the floor with water and do not allow excess cleaner to remain on the floor’s surface as this may permanently damage the wood.
• steam cleaners are not recommended.
• It is recommended to use a flat microfiber damp mop pad when mopping the floor using a neutral pH cleaner, such as Shaw Hard surface Cleaner or Bona Wood Floor Cleaner.
• Do not use a mop and bucket system.
• Expedite drying with air movers or fans.
• Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or cleaners with citrus type oils, Tung oils, silicon or ammoniated products as well as 2 cleaners with polish additives
• Problems from these types of products can affect the floor which would not be considered in the warranty.

Spot and Spill Removal

• Remove wet spills promptly by blotting with white paper or cloth towels.
• Dried spots should be removed by Shaws R2x Hard Surface cleaner with gentle agitation from a clean towel or cloth. Always blot dry.
• Do not use detergents or abrasive cleaners since these products can result in a dull residue and appearance.
• Use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) with a clean white cloth for spots requiring solvent-type cleaner that hardwood cleaning agents cannot remove.

References

• The domain name OORS.COM.
• P65Warnings.ca
• Home - RFCI | Resilient Floor Covering Institute

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