HUMMINBIRD 1100 Series HD Sonar Installation Guide

: June 3, 2024
: Humminbird

HUMMINBIRD 1100 Series HD Sonar

INSTALLATION OVERVIEW

Inside the boat there is often a channel or conduit used for other wiring, this can be used to route cables. Be sure to route the cable as far as practical from the antenna cable of VHF radios or tachometer cables to reduce the possibility of interference. The transducer cable should not be cut, and care should be used not to damage the cable insulation.

Basic installation tasks that you must perform include the following:

Install the control head (choose gimbal or in-dash mounting)
Install the transducer (choose the installation method that matches your transducer)
Install the optional-purchase accessories. See the guides included with each accessory.
Test the complete installation

NOTE: To purchase accessories or any additional equipment for your control head configuration, go to humminbird.com or contact our Customer Resource Center at 1-800-633-1468.

NOTE: The following accessories are not compatible with your unit: CannonLink™, InterLink™, Remote Sonar Link™ (RSL), SmartCast®, WeatherSense®, and XM WX Satellite Weather®. See our Web site at humminbird.com for the latest compatibility information.

NOTE: Accessories connected to the RS 232 connector require a separate power source.

NOTE: Due to the wide variety of hulls, only general instructions are presented in this installation guide. Each boat hull represents a unique set of requirements that should be evaluated prior to installation. It is important to read the instructions completely and understand the mounting guidelines before beginning installation.

NOTE: When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and use progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating.

CONTROL HEAD INSTALLATION

You have two choices for mounting your 1100 Series™ control head, Gimbal mounting, where you use a surface on the boat, such as the dash, to mount the control head so that it can be tilted up or down, or In-dash mounting.

Gimbal Mounting the Control Head
If you are gimbal mounting the Humminbird® 1100 Series™, you can pre-assemble the unit in order to plan the best mounting location.

Supplies: In addition to the hardware supplied with your control head, you will need a powered hand drill and various drill bits, various hand tools, including a Phillips head screwdriver, a socket wrench and a flat head screwdriver, a marker or pencil, safety glasses and dust mask, and marine- grade silicone sealant.

Place the control head into the gimbal bracket. Make sure that the straight side of the gimbal arm is against the back side of the control head.
Place a 1″ (25 mm) diameter black washer on the gimbal knob and then thread the knob and washer into the housing. Tighten the gimbal knob to secure the control head to the mount. Repeat step 2 for the other side.
You can now place the control head in various locations to decide which is best for mounting. Rotating the mounting bracket to the top of the control head will allow for overhead mounting. The chosen mounting area should allow for sufficient room so the control head can pivot through the full tilt range and allow for easy removal and installation.
NOTE: You can drill the cable pass hole underneath the gimbal bracket, allowing you to thread the cables through the hole in the center of the mount. However, if you cannot drill the hole directly under the mounting bracket, then you will need to drill the cable pass hole behind the bracket, and will need to mount the hole cover there instead.
NOTE: When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and use progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating. Fill all holes with marine grade silicone sealant.
NOTE: You must have underside access to the mounting location to pass the cables through to the surface. Also, make sure that the mounting surface is adequately supported to protect the control head from excessive wave shock and vibration and to provide visibility while in operation.
Go to the installation instructions applicable to your transducer and accessories. Make the required installations and then run the cables to your control head mounting location. Do not cut any cabling (except the power cable). If your cables are too short, extensions are available from your local dealer or online from humminbird.com.
After the mounting location has been determined, loosen the gimbal knobs and remove the control head from the gimbal bracket.
NOTE: Alternate hole patterns are available on the gimbal mounting bracket, and may match existing holes on the boat. You may choose to use one of these alternate hole patterns.
Place the gimbal bracket in the chosen position on the mounting surface and mark the four mounting screw locations using a pencil or center punch.
Set the gimbal bracket aside and drill the four mounting screw holes using a 5/32″ (4.0 mm) drill bit.
a. If the cables must pass through a hole directly beneath the mounting bracket, mark and drill an additional 1″ (25 mm) hole centered between the four mounting holes. Route the cables through the 1″ hole. Place the gimbal over the mounting surface hole, then use it to mark the position of the two mounting screws, closest to the center large hole. Remove the gimbal and drill the two mounting holes using a 9/64″ (3.5 mm) bit. Do not install the hole cover at this time.
or…
7b. If the cables cannot be routed directly beneath the mounting bracket, mark and drill a 1″ (25 mm) hole that will allow you to run the cables close to the bracket. Pass the cables through the 1″ (25 mm) hole, routing the cables through the grommet and pressing the grommet into place. Place the hole cover over the mounting surface hole, then use it to mark the position of the two mounting screws. Remove the hole cover, drill the two mounting holes using a 9/64″ (3.5 mm) bit, fill them with marine-grade silicone sealant, then replace the hole cover and insert the #8 Phillips countersink wood screws. Hand- tighten only.
Place the mounting bracket on the mounting surface aligned with the drilled holes and fill the mounting holes with marine grade silicone sealant. Insert the four #10 Slotted-Hex wood screws into the mounting holes. Hand-tighten only.
If the cable pass through hole is beneath the mounting bracket, you will need to install the hole cover after you have routed all cables. Place the hole cover over the mounting bracket cable pass through hole and align with holes drilled in step 7a. Insert the #8 Phillips countersink wood screws. Hand tighten only.
NOTE: Be sure that the cables pass through the slots on the hole cover and that there is enough cable slack to allow for the control head to pivot through its full tilt range. Extra cable slack will also help when connecting or disconnecting the cables.
Thread the cables through the opening in the back of the cable collector cover.
Proceed to Installing the Cable Collector Insert.

In-Dash Mounting the Control Head

If you are in-dash mounting the control head, start by placing the components on the surfaces where you intend to install them before installation. Make sure that the surfaces you have chosen provide adequate protection from wave shock and that all cables can reach the control head.

NOTE: If a cable is too short for your application, extension cables are available. For assistance, contact the Customer Resource Center at humminbird.com or call 1-800-633-1468 for more information.

Parts and tools specific to In-dash mounting are:
- Threaded rods and hardware
- In-dash mounting foam pads
- In-dash mounting template
- Reciprocating saw for cutting dash material
- Masking tape to hold mounting template in place
Locate a suitable, flat area of the dash to mount the control head. The control head requires a depth of at least 4 inches (102 mm).
Tape the paper In-Dash Mounting template to the desired in-dash mounting location.
At a location inside the dotted line on the template, drill a hole large enough to insert blade of reciprocating saw. In addition, drill the 4 mounting hole locations using a 3/16″ drill bit. Carefully begin cutting toward the dotted line, then follow the dotted line around the template. Remove the template when finished.
Insert and tighten the four threaded rods into the four threaded inserts located on the back side of the control head. Peel off the adhesive-backed foam pads and place them on the back of the control head; make sure you notice the difference between the longer top/bottom and shorter side pads.
Insert the control head through the mounting hole from the front side of the dash. Place a washer, lock washer, and wing nut onto each threaded rod and tighten fully.
Go to the installation instructions applicable to your transducer and accessories. Make the required installations and then run the cables to your control head mounting location. Do not cut any cabling (except the power cable). If your cables are too short, extensions are available from your local dealer or online from humminbird.com.
Thread the cables through the opening in the back of the cable collector cover.
Proceed to Installing the Cable Collector Insert.

Installing the Cable Collector Insert

NOTE: You may wish to dress the cabling with nylon wire ties in order to hold the cables together and create a cleaner assembly.
NOTE: It is very important that the cable collector is used and secured in place in the In-Dash installation.

Insert cable connectors into the proper recesses on the cable collector insert. The cable connectors are keyed to prevent reverse installation, so be careful not to force the connectors into the wrong slots. If you don’t have a cable for every hole in the insert, install the blank plugs to protect the control head from the weather.
Inserting the Cables into the Cable Collector Insert
Line up the cable collector insert and cover, with the keying feature, then slide the cover into place on the insert.
Attach the cable collector insert to the cable collector cover using the two #6 Phillips screws provided.
Plug the assembled cable collector into the back of the control head, pushing gently but steadily until you feel the collector snap into place. Cable connectors and cable sockets are keyed to prevent reverse installation, so be careful not to force the connectors into the wrong sockets.
Plugging the Assembled Cable Collector into the Back of the Control Head
Gimbal Mount: Place the control head back onto the mounting bracket.
Adjust the control head to the desired viewing angle and secure by tightening the gimbal knobs.

Connecting the Control Head Power Cable to the Boat
A 6′ (2 m) long power cable is included to supply power to the control head. You may shorten or lengthen the cable using 18 gauge multi-stranded copper wire.
CAUTION! Some boats have 24 or 36 Volt electric systems, but the control head MUST be connected to a 12 VDC power supply.
The control head power cable can be connected to the electrical system of the boat at one of two places: a fuse panel usually located near the console, or directly to the battery. CAUTION! Make sure that the power cable is disconnected from the control head at the beginning of this procedure.
NOTE: Humminbird® is not responsible for over-voltage or over-current failures. The control head must have adequate protection through the proper selection and installation of a 3 Amp fuse.

a. If a fuse terminal is available, use crimp-on type electrical connectors (not included) that match the terminal on the fuse panel. Attach the black wire to ground (-), and the red wire to positive (+) 12 VDC power. Install a 3 Amp fuse (not included) for protection of the unit. Humminbird® is not responsible for over-voltage or over-current failures.
or…
1b. If you need to wire the control head directly to a battery, obtain and install an inline fuse holder and a 3 Amp fuse (not included) for the protection of the unit. Humminbird® is not responsible for over-voltage or over-current failures.

NOTE: Your unit will detect when your battery voltage is too low or too high, and will display either Input Voltage Low or Input Voltage High messages if these limits are exceeded. If you turn the Low Battery Alarm on using the Alarms Main Menu, your unit will use your settings. If you do not turn the Low Battery Alarm on, the unit will use these limits: 7.5 to 7.9 VDC for the low end, and 21 to 21.2 VDC for the high end.

NOTE: In order to minimize the potential for interference with other marine electronics, a separate power source (such as a second battery) may be necessary.

TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION OVERVIEW

Proceed to the installation section that matches your transducer type. Your choices are as follows:

Transom Mount
Trolling Motor Transducer Installation

NOTE: Due to the wide variety of hulls, only general instructions are presented in this installation guide. Each boat hull represents a unique set of requirements that should be evaluated prior to installation. It is important to read the instructions completely and understand the mounting guidelines before beginning installation.

TRANSOM TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION

Supplies: In addition to the hardware supplied with your transducer, you will need a powered hand drill and various drill bits, various hand tools, including a ruler or straightedge, a marker or pencil, safety glasses and dust mask, and marine-grade silicone sealant.

The Side Imaging® transducer has some special requirements because of its side viewing capabilities:

The Side Imaging® transducer must NOT have anything obstructing the ‘view’ of the side looking beams, i.e. nothing can be in the line of sight of these beams (not a hull, motor, or other transducer, etc).
NOTE: You may need to tilt the motor up and out of the way when using the side looking beams.
In order for the side beams to be displayed accurately, the transducer must be mounted so that it is looking straight down in the water when the boat is in the water.

Transducer Mount Position

Unobstructed View: The jack plate gives the transducer safe distance from the motor and turbulence. The Side Imaging® has a clear view side-to-side.
Obstructed View: The transducer is too close to motor turbulence, and the Side Imaging® view is blocked by the motor. The view cannot extend from side-to-side.

NOTE: When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and use progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating.

OVERVIEW

If you will be installing a transom mounted transducer, use the procedures in this section. There are two pieces to the transducer mount assembly: the pivot and the bracket. Your transducer comes with a two-piece metal and plastic bracket assembly. There are several procedures you will have to perform in order to install a transom-mounted transducer. They are as follows:

Determine transducer mounting location
Mount the bracket to the boat
Attach the pivot to the transducer
Mount the transducer pivot assembly to the bracket
Adjust the running position of the transducer
Route the transducer cable
Perform a final test of the transom transducer installation

Locating the Transducer Mounting Position

NOTE: If transom mounting is not possible because of a stepped hull or cavitation noise, trolling motor installation may be an option. See Trolling Motor Transducer Installation for more information.

Turbulence: You must first determine the best location on the transom to install the transducer. It is very important to locate the transducer in an area that is relatively free of turbulent water. Consider the following to find the best location with the least amount of turbulence:

As the boat moves through the water, turbulence is generated by the weight of the boat and the thrust of the propeller(s) – either clockwise or counter-clockwise. This turbulent water is normally confined to areas immediately aft of ribs, strakes or rows of rivets on the bottom of the boat, and in the immediate area of the propeller(s). Clockwise propellers create more turbulence on the port side. On outboard or inboard/outboard boats, it is best to locate the transducer at least 15″ (380
mm) to the side of the propeller(s) (Figure 4).
The best way to locate turbulence-free water is to view the transom while the boat is moving. This method is recommended if maximum high-speed operation is a high priority. If this is not possible, select a location on the transom where the hull forward of this location is smooth, flat and free of protrusions or ribs (Figure 1).
The hydrodynamic shape of your transducer allows it to point straight down without deadrise adjustment.
On boats with stepped hulls, it may be possible to mount the transducer on the step. Do not mount the transducer on the transom behind a step to avoid popping the transducer out of the water at higher speeds; the transducer must remain in the water for the control head to maintain the sonar signal (Figure 2).

If the transom is behind the propeller(s), it may be impossible to find an area clear from turbulence, and a different mounting technique or transducer type should be considered (see Trolling Motor Transducer Installation).
The Side Imaging® transducer must NOT have anything obstructing the ‘view’ of the side looking beams, i.e. nothing can be in the line of sight of these beams (not a hull, motor, or other transducer, etc).

Mounting the Transducer Bracket to the Boat

Remove the transducer mounting template from this manual (see Transducer Mounting Template: XHS 9 HDSI 180 T).
Hold the template on the transom of the boat in the location where the transducer will be installed. Align the template vertically, matching the lower edge of the transom with the bottom corner of the template. If your propeller moves clockwise as the boat moves forward, mount the transducer on the starboard side, and use the bottom left corner of the template. If your propeller moves counter-clockwise as the boat moves forward, mount the transducer on the port side, and use the bottom right corner of the template.
Using a pencil or punch, mark the three mounting holes on the transom. Do not mark or drill any other holes at this time.
Using a 5/32″ (4.0 mm) bit, drill the three holes to a depth of approximately 1″ (25 mm). On fiberglass hulls, it is best to use progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating. Use a marine-grade silicone sealant to fill the drilled holes.
Align the metal mounting bracket with the mounting holes. The center slot should be above the two outer slots. (This bracket and all other hardware supplied is top quality stainless steel for maximum strength and corrosion protection.) Insert the three 1″ (25 mm) flat head wood screws into the drilled holes, but do not completely tighten.

Attaching the Pivot to the Transducer

Attach the pivot to the transducer body, using the two 1/4″-20 x 5/8″ (16mm) machine screws, toothed washers, and square nuts. The toothed washers must fit on the inside of the transducer knuckle, between the pivot and the knuckle. The square nuts will be prevented from rotating by the pocket in the back of the pivot. An Allen wrench is provided which fits all the 1/4″-20 screws, but do not fully tighten the screws at this time.

Mounting the Transducer Pivot Assembly to the Bracket

Slide the assembled transducer into the metal bracket from the bottom, aligning the large hole at the top of the bracket with the hole in the pivot.
Insert the headed pin through the pivot holes in the bracket and pivot. The headed pin can be inserted from either side of the bracket.
Place the nylon washer over the opposite end of the headed pin. Place the stainless washer over the 1/4″-20 x 5/8″ (16 mm) screw threads, then insert into the opposite end of the headed pin and finger tighten only. The screw has a thread locking compound on the threads to prevent loosening, and should not be fully tightened until all adjustments are made.

NOTE: The running position of the transducer is now completely adjustable. Subsequent adjustment may be necessary to tweak the installation after high speed testing.

Adjusting the Running Position of the Transducer

The transducer mounting bracket allows height and tilt adjustment, while the pivot bolt allows angular adjustment. These adjustments will help reduce cavitation. Initially, adjust the transducer as described in the following paragraphs. Further adjustment may be necessary to refine the installation after high-speed testing.

First, adjust the pivot angle of the transducer body, so it is parallel with the length of the hull of the boat.
Fully tighten the two pivot screws, using the supplied Allen wrench. Access to the pivot screws is provided by the lower holes in the side of the mounting bracket. It may be necessary to re-tighten the pivot bolt after initial use as the plastic may still be conforming to the pressure from the lock washers.
Adjust the height of the assembly so the face of the transducer is 1/8″ (3 mm) to 1/4″ (6 mm) beneath the bottom of the transom, and fully tighten the three mounting screws.
In order to gain access to the mounting screws, the transducer assembly must be pivoted up in the bracket as shown. Be careful not to alter the running angle as some force is necessary to pivot the assembly.
If access to the top mounting hole is not possible due to the selected height of the transducer, fully tighten the two lower screws, then simply remove the headed pivot pin and the transducer assembly, and tighten the top screw, then reassemble.
Confirm that the pivot angle has not changed and that all mounting screws are fully tightened.5. If access to the top mounting hole is not possible due to the selected height of the transducer, fully tighten the two lower screws, then simply remove the headed pivot pin and the transducer assembly, and tighten the top screw, then reassemble.
Confirm that the pivot angle has not changed and that all mounting screws are fully tightened.

Routing the Transom Transducer Cable

The transducer cable has a low profile connector that must be routed to the point where the control head is mounted. There are several ways to route the transducer cable to the area where the control head will be installed. The most common procedure routes the cable through the transom into the boat.

NOTE: Your boat may have a pre-existing wiring channel or conduit that you can use for the transducer cable.

Unplug the other end of the transducer cable from the control head. Make sure that the cable is long enough to accommodate the planned route by running the cable over the transom.
CAUTION! Do not cut or shorten the transducer cable, and try not to damage the cable insulation. Route the cable as far as possible from any VHF radio antenna cables or tachometer cables to reduce the possibility of interference. If the cable is too short, extension cables are available to extend the transducer cable up to a total of 50′ (15 m). For assistance, contact the Customer Resource Center at humminbird.com or call 1-800-633-1468 for more information.
CAUTION! Do NOT mount the cables where the connectors could be submerged in water or flooded. If cables are installed in a splash-prone area, it may be helpful to apply dielectric grease to the inside of the connectors to prevent corrosion. Dielectric grease can be purchased separately from a general hardware or automotive store.
NOTE: Since the transducer may need to pivot up to 90° in the bracket if it strikes an object, make sure there is sufficient cable slack to accommodate this motion. It is best to route the cable to the side of the transducer so the cable will not be damaged by the rotation of the transducer.
a. If you are routing the cable over the transom of the boat, secure the cable by attaching the cable clamp to the transom, drilling 9/64″ diameter holes for the #8 x 5/8″ wood screws, then skip directly to procedure 5, Connecting the Cable.
or…
2b. If you will be routing the cable through a hole in the transom, drill a 5/8″ diameter hole above the waterline. Route the cable through this hole, then fill the hole with marine-grade silicone sealant and proceed to the next step immediately.
Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole and use it as a guide to mark the two escutcheon plate mounting holes. Remove the plate, drill two 9/64″ diameter x 5/8″ deep holes, and then fill both holes with marine-grade silicone sealant. Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole and attach with two #8 x 5/8″ wood screws.
Route and secure the cable by attaching the cable clamp to the transom; drill one 9/64″ diameter x 5/8″ deep hole, then fill the hole with marine-grade silicone sealant, then attach the cable clamp using a #8 x 5/8″ screw.
Plug the other end of the transducer cable back into the control head connection holder.

NOTE: If there is excess cable that needs to be gathered at one location (as shown in the illustration), dress the cable routed from both directions so that a single loop is left extending from the storage location. Doubling the cable up from this point, form the cable into a coil. Storing excess cable using this method can reduce electronic interference.

Test and Finish the Transducer Installation

When you have installed both the control head, the transducer, and accessories and have routed all the cables, you must perform a final test before locking the transducer in place. Testing should be performed with the boat in the water.

Press the POWER/LIGHT key once to turn on the control head. There will be an audible chirp when the key is pressed correctly. If the unit does not power-up, make sure that the connector holder is fully seated and that power is available.
If all connections are correct and power is available, the control head will enter Normal operation. If no transducer is detected (or one is not connected), the unit will go into Simulator mode and will indicate this by displaying the word Simulator on the control head display.
NOTE: The transducer must be submerged in water for reliable transducer detection.
If the bottom is visible on-screen with a digital depth readout, the unit is working properly. Make sure that the boat is in water greater than 2 ft (.6 m) but less than the depth capability of the unit, and that the transducer is fully submerged, since the sonar signal cannot pass through air.
If the unit is working properly, gradually increase the boat speed to test high-speed performance. If the unit functions well at low speeds but begins to skip or miss the bottom at higher speeds, the transducer requires adjustment. Angling the rear of the transducer downward and/or lowering the transducer farther into the water will help achieve depth readings at high speeds. If the left side of the fish arch is longer than the right side, then the back of the transducer is angled too far downward. If the right side of the fish arch is longer than the left side, then the back of the transducer is angled too far upwards.
NOTE: Due to the wide variety of boat hulls, it may not always be possible to get symmetrical fish arches and high speed depth readings at the same time.
NOTE: It is often necessary to make several incremental transducer adjustments before optimum high speed performance is achieved.
Once you have reached a consistently good sonar signal at the desired speeds, you are ready to lock down the transducer settings.
Mark the transducer bracket location on the transom with a pencil, then pop up the bracket to reveal the mounting screws. Tighten the stainless steel mounting bracket screws to secure in place. Hand-tighten only!

TROLLING MOTOR TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION

Several styles of the transducer are compatible with trolling motor mounting. If you have a trolling motor bracket, refer to the separate installation instructions that are included with the bracket.

TROLLING MOTOR

TRANSDUCER OPTIONS

You may purchase a Trolling Motor Adapter kit that will allow you to mount the transducer on the trolling motor.
You may also exchange your NEW and UNASSEMBLED transducer (with mounting hardware included) for a trolling motor transducer.
There are also several transducer switches available that support the following configurations:
Two control heads with one transducer
Two transducers with one control head

TEST THE SYSTEM INSTALLATION

After you have completed the installation of the control head and any other accessories, and have made all the required cabling connections, you must test the installation before using the system.

Press the POWER/LIGHT key on the control head. If the unit does not power up, make sure that power is available.
While the Title screen is shown on the display, press the MENU key to display the Start-Up Options menu. Press the UP or DOWN Cursor keys to choose System Status, and press the RIGHT Cursor key to select it.
Self Test displays results from the internal diagnostic self test, including unit serial number, Printed Circuit Board (PCB) serial number, software revision, total hours of operation and the input voltage.
NOTE: If you wait too long, the system will default to whichever menu mode happens to be highlighted, and you will have to start again.
Press the VIEW key once. Review the accessory connections on the Accessory Test View.
NOTE: The speed will be detected only if the paddlewheel has moved since the control head has been powered up.
Press the VIEW key once. Review the GPS receiver status on the GPS
Diagnostic View. GPS Diagnostic View shows a sky chart and numerical data from the GPS receiver. The sky chart shows the location of each visible GPS satellite with its satellite number and a signal strength bar (dark gray bar = satellite in use, light gray bar = satellite monitored but not used).
You are ready for on the water operation.
See your operations manual for more information about each System Status View.

TRANSDUCER MOUNTING TEMPLATE:

XHS 9 HDSI 180 T

WARNING! Disassembly and repair of this electronic unit should only be performed by authorized service personnel. Any modification of the serial number or attempt to repair the original equipment or accessories by unauthorized individuals will void the warranty.
WARNING! This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
WARNING! This device should not be used as a navigational aid to prevent collision, grounding, boat damage, or personal injury. When the boat is moving, water depth may change too quickly to allow time for you to react. Always operate the boat at very slow speeds if you suspect shallow water or submerged objects.
WARNING! Do not travel at high speeds with the unit cover installed. Remove the unit cover before traveling at speeds above 20 mph.

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WEEE DIRECTIVE: EU Directive 2002/96/EC “Waste of Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive (WEEE)” impacts most distributors, sellers, and manufacturers of consumer electronics in the European Union. The WEEE Directive requires the producer of consumer electronics to take responsibility for the management of waste from their products to achieve environmentally responsible disposal during the product life cycle.

WEEE compliance may not be required in your location for electrical & electronic equipment (EEE), nor may it be required for EEE designed and intended as fixed or temporary installation in transportation vehicles such as automobiles, aircraft, and boats. In some European Union member states, these vehicles are considered outside of the scope of the Directive, and EEE for those applications can be considered excluded from the WEEE Directive requirement.

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CONTACT HUMMINBIRD®
Contact the Humminbird® Customer Resource Center in any of the following ways:

Web site:
humminbird.com
E-mail:
service@humminbird.com

Telephone:
1-800-633-1468

Direct Shipping:
Humminbird

Service Department
678 Humminbird Lane
Eufaula, AL 36027 USA

Hours of Operation:
Monday – Friday
8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Central Standard Time)