J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Specifications

• Brand: Real Good Toys

• Product: Moss Creek Log Cabin Dollhouse Kit

• Recommended Age: Not suitable for children under 13 years of
  age

• Compliance: California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase
  2

Product Information

Congratulations on choosing a Real Good Toys product! The Moss
Creek Log Cabin Dollhouse Kit is meticulously crafted with
high-quality materials, ensuring durability for years to come. This
dollhouse offers the opportunity for heirloom care and attention
during assembly, making it a cherished possession for
generations.

Product Usage Instructions

1. Preparing Your Space

Before starting the assembly process, ensure you have a large
flat tabletop, several boxes for organizing parts, trays lined with
waxed paper for small parts, and a snap-lid box for tools and
supplies.

2. Preview the Overview

Refer to page 5 of the manual to plan and organize your build
effectively. Understanding the overview will streamline the
assembly process and make it more enjoyable.

3. Measuring and Identifying Parts

Label and organize the parts as per the Parts List provided in
the kit. Use sticky notes to identify parts and check them off the
list to ensure you have everything required for assembly.

4. Tools and Supplies

Ensure you have the necessary tools and supplies, including
paint, stain, sandpaper, trays or box-tops, hot-melt glue gun,
Aleene’s Tacky Glue, and other items listed in the manual. Visit
www.realgoodtoys.com for specific items.

FAQ

Q: Where can I find accessories for the Moss Creek Log

Cabin?

A: Accessories such as Gingerbread Flower Boxes, Foundation
Stucco Grit, Octagonal Shingles, Fancy Windows and Doors, Turnposts
and Spindles, Wiring Wallpaper, Interior paint colors, Flooring
options, Banister & Landing Rails, Window and Door trim,
Baseboard and Crown, Fancy Stairs, L-Log Material, Coarse
Double-Cut File, Red Cedar Shingles, and Turntables are available
at your local dollhouse shop or www.realgoodtoys.com.

Instructions for Real Good Toys’

Moss Creek Log Cabin

Kit #J535 ©5/24

Congratulations on your choice of a Real Good Toys product. Your kit has been precision made with meticulous care by our craftspeople using carefully selected materials. This Dollhouse will last for years, even generations, if heirloom care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time and read the instructions completely. If you have questions, ask the experts at your local Dollhouse store or at info@realgoodtoys.com

Before you begin – You have already opened the box and see all the parts organized in boxes and bundles. For the moment, keep them that way. There are important things to do before you open your glue bottle.

Prepare your space: This dollhouse will spread out over a large area while it is being built. You will need a large flat tabletop for the house, several boxes to keep parts organized until they are needed, and several trays lined with waxed paper for holding small parts. A snap-lid box will keep your tools and supplies handy between building sessions.
Preview the Overview (page 5) to plan and organize your build; this helps make it fun and fulfilling.

Measure and identify the parts: The kit is packed in groupings that protect the parts, and that is how the Parts List is organized. As you measure and identify the parts, label them with sticky notes using the names from the parts list, and check them off the parts list so you know you have everything. Taking the time now to identify and organize the parts also makes them familiar so you will understand what the instructions intend as you read ahead.
· Plan ahead so you know where you are going · Read ahead so you know how to get there · Paint ahead so the parts will be ready when you need them

Items used in this build that are available at www.realgoodtoys.com: Dye-1 (reddish brown), Dye-3 (dark grey) for shingles or logs 5408-10 Double-Cut Coarse File for shaping logs and window cutouts Mini Paint Roller for interior painting Aleene’s Tacky Glue for housebody construction #6888 Best1 Wiring Set: it has what you need to wire this house

Other tools and supplies used in this builds:

Paint, stain, and painting supplies: 1″ foam brushes for each color of paint or stain,

Sandpaper: 120/150 and 220/320 grit, 3-5 sheets, Trays or box-tops (see your local office supply store for 4 or 5 lids from the boxes reams of paper come in)

www.realgoodtoys.help

Hot-melt glue gun and glue or solvent-based cement for Logs and Shingles (see page 12)

Masking tape: ¾” or 1″ – select high-adhesion masking tape; #19 rubber bands Razor saw, utility knife (also called “drywall knife”), 24″ ruler and a pencil.

Not suitable for children under 13 years of age California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase 2

Real Good Toys · 122 Gallison Hill Rd · Montpelier, VT 05602 · 802 262-6018 · www.realgoodtoys.com

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Accessories page 2

Accessories for the Moss Creek Log Cabin
See your local dollhouse shop or www.realgoodtoys.com

Accessories: Gingerbread Flower Boxes Foundation Stucco Grit Octagonal Shingles Fancy Windows and Doors Turnposts and Spindles
Interior: Wiring Wallpaper
Interior paint color: Ceilings Painted walls Interior trim
Flooring: Applied wood, tile, or carpet
Banister & Landing Rails Window and Door trim Baseboard and Crown Fancy Stairs

L-Log Log Material

5408-10 Coarse Double-Cut File

Hand-Split Octagonal Shingles Red Cedar: HOC350

T250 Assembled Turntable

T10: 12″ Turntable T250: Assembled Turntable ET250: Wired Turntable

Stucco Mix

White Pine: HOW500

Shingle Dye
Dye-1: Reddish Brown Dye-3: Dark Grey

JM66 Conservatory 12 x 12 x 14T

Windows: Openings fit standard-size; working or non-working* (requires interior trim customization)

JM44 Extension

JQ13W
Doors*: Exterior

5042-C

5041-C

5025 Louvered Shutters

Interior

6002-C

6018-C

6022-C

1015

Note: I often enlarge an interior door opening to fit the #6022

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Tapewire or Roundwire powered “Light-It-Up” LED Lighting
E224

6888 Real Good Toys’ Best1 Dollhouse Wiring Set

E225

Accessories page 3
6453M: Raspberry Parfait Mini A Dollhouse for your Dollhouse

E226

RGT5 Porch Post

1-WB Variety Stripwood
SW16 7/16″ Stripwood

Wallpaper P2000 HH444
Battery powered LED Lighting

Trim and Stripwood

RGT8 Spindle

Flute24 SW16

B Rail

HW2301

HW2326

J-FK Banister/Newel Turned Landing Rails Baseboard Molding Crown Molding

4017 Pine Stair and Landing Set

6803 Banister & Landing Set

Tools, Accessories, Supplies, and Miniatures: visit www.realgoodtoys.com

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Parts page 4

Identify the parts: Measure each part and find it on the parts list, then label it with pencil or a sticky note.

Labeling the parts will help you use the same names that are used in the instructions.

Drawings are not all the same scale.

Parts: Measurements are approximate (for parts identification only) 1) J0960 Front: (1/4) 109/16 x 23, Window and Door cutouts 1) J0959 Dormer Front: (1/4) 57/8 x 177/8, Window cutouts 2) J0962 Side: (1/4) 185/8 x 107/8, Grooved, Peaked

OnLine Support: There are many photos of this house under construction as well as tips, techniques, and extra help with your dollhouse project at:
www.realgoodtoys.help

2. J0963 Dormer Side: (1/4) 621/32 x 411/16 Triangle

Upper Roof

1. J0835 Base Floor: (1/4) 225/8 x 1015/16

2. J0836 Mid Floor: (1/4) 225/8 x 1015/16, Stair hole 1) J0838 Divider: (1/4) 9 x 107/8, Door cutout

Dormer Roof

1. J0839 Attic Partition: (1/4) 89/32 x 529/32 Shaped

2. J0848 Attic Ceiling: (3/8) 225/8 x 11/16, Beveled

3. J0834 Upper Roof: (1/4) 237/8 x 11/2, Beveled

4. J0840 Front Eave: (1/4) 3 x 91/8

Porch Floor

2. J0841 Rear Eave: (1/4) 11/2 x 93/8

3. J0837 Dormer Roof: (1/4) 195/8 x 57/8, Beveled

4. J0964 Front/Back Foundation: (3/8) 23 x 11/4 Grooves 4) J0965 Middle Foundation: (3/8) 105/8 x 11/4

Porch Roof

2. J0846 Porch F/B Foundation: (3/8) 211/8 x 11/4 Grooves

3. J0847 Porch Mid Foundation: (3/8) 329/32 x 11/4

Chimney

1. J0842 Porch Floor: (1/4) 211/2 x 43/8

2. J0843 Porch Roof: (1/4) 221/4 x 53/8

3. J0849 Chimney: (3/4) 17/8 x 33/4, Angled 5) J0966 Stripwood: (1/8 x 9/16 ) 231/2

Front/Back Foundation

4. J0967 Porch Post: (9/16 x 9/16 rounded) 8

5. J0852 Stair Stringer: (5/32) Shaped

10)J0851 Stair Tread: (3/16 x 3/4 ) 21/4

Porch F/B Foundation

1. J0850 Step: (3/4 ) 1 x 4

2. J0980 Window Frame, Vertical: (L shaped) 53/8

3. J0981 Window Frame, Horizontal: (L shaped) 27/8 8) J0982 Window Interior Vert: (3/32 x 3/8) 53/8 8) J0983 Window Interior, Horz: (3/32 x 3/8) 27/8

Attic Ceiling

4. E8157 Window Pane

5. J0860 Groove Fill: (1/16 x 1/4) 4 1) D0540 Door (Interior trim is with Window Trim)

Divider

Attic Partition

Dormer Side

1. T1004 650 Shingles:

Large Log: (7/32 x 3/4 rounded)

8 J0968 247/32 (two are extra – just in case)

14 J0971 1017/32

Dormer Front

14 J0973 71/16

12 J0974 41/32

14 J0969 1123/32

14 J0970 113/32 24 J0972 83/16

SiSdeide

44 J0979 3/8 “Nubs” Small Log: (7/32 x 9/16 rounded)

Front

3 J0976 231/2 (some is extra – just in case)

1 J0978 201/16

2 J0977 12

Stair Stringer

Base Floor

Electrification slot

Upper Floor

The Electrification Slots in the Floors make it easier to run tape style wiring from floor to floor.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Parts page 5

Overview of the Build:

Slideshows, demos, useful links, details, and photos are all at:

Details of each step will be expanded along the way, but lots

www.realgoodtoys.help

of folks like to see how it all fits together before they start.
Glue the shingles on with glue that doesn’t have any water

Identify and label all of the parts

in it! If the glue says “water clean-up”, it will curl the wooden

Option: Faux-wood floor finish on the floors;

shingles. Look carefully at the glue you intend to use to be

Paint everything that will be painted – one coat only for now; sure it is solvent-based, or use hot-melt glue (use the high

Sand the paint until it is smooth, transparent,

temp version and watch out for the burns). I use fabric glue or

and some of the wood is showing through;

a “Sub-Floor Adhesive” glue which comes in a caulking-gun

Build the housebody up to the Roof;

tube at the hardware or building supply store. It says “Cau-

Apply Logs to the walls;

tion: Flammable” on the front, and that’s how I am sure it is

Mark, paint, and attach the Roofs

solvent based. Check ingredients and warnings!

(don’t glue on the Rear Roof yet); Build the Dormer; Apply Logs to the Dormer; Apply Nubs; Optional: Start the wiring;

If you Wallpaper, use Grandmother Stover’s www.realgoodtoys.com or pre-mixed Roman’s “Border” paste. Brush paste on the wallpaper, then the wall, and finally smooth the wallpaper into position.

Foundation; Porch; Install the Divider and Attic Partition; Optional: Finish the wiring; Assemble, finish, and paint everything else; Finish the inside – attach the Rear Roof and Chimney; Finish the outside – trim and shingles.
Wiring? www.realgoodtoys.help Click the buttons “J535” and then “Wiring” for wiring information specific to this house.

Taking things apart: Heat softens glue. If you have to take things apart, warm the part in the oven at 170o for up to a half hour to let the heat get into the joint where the glue is. Don’t let it get hotter than you can touch or the paint may scorch. Don’t heat window panes. www.realgoodtoys.help has more info.
When glue is drying, skip ahead to up-coming assembly steps and prepare the parts that will be used Before you begin, read the “Finish the Inside” section toward the end of these instructions.

Assembly Tips: A large, clutter-free, well-lighted work area is helpful during assembly, but a flat work surface is essential.
Read the instructions carefully; look at each of the illustrations. !With the parts in your hands!, think the assembly through before you proceed.
Test fit each time you are ready to glue a piece in place…then you’ll know you have it right. If more tape or a helper is needed, it’s good to know that before the parts have glue on them.
Don’t be stingy with glue or tape; use generous amounts. Always wipe off excess glue immediately. Keep one damp rag and one dry rag handy all the time. Have weights available for holding things tight as glue joints dry (stacks of books, gallons of pure Vermont Maple Syrup – anything heavy).
Glue the body of your dollhouse together with white, water clean-up glue that dries clear. Do not use instant-bond (super glue), fast-tack, rubber cement, silicone, or hot melt glues. They are all used in some wood applications (and some will be used for logs and shingles), but they all have some trait that makes them un-desirable for the body of your dollhouse. I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue® for housebody assembly.
Make sure everything is straight and flat as glue dries… That’s the shape that will be permanent.

Q: Can I wallpaper before I assemble the doll house?
A: Yes you can (it’s your house!) Many experienced builders are advocates of papering before construction – I am not.
My biggest objection to papering first is that you are always too skimpy with glue so none will squeeze out and get on the paper. I try to use the amount of glue that fills the joint, so some will squeeze out in every joint and be wiped up. But wiping glue off of wallpaper leaves a streak, so the temptation is to go skimpy, and the joints aren’t as strong.
Second, I can always tell a house that was pre-papered because the corners show a void instead of being continuous (see the slideshows about how to crowd the papers together in the corner… you can’t do that with pre-papered walls).
Third, I have had to replace paper too often that has gotten damaged by glue or tape during construction… that wastes time and paper ($) and can make it so you are left deciding whether to replace a damaged paper or letting it slide because you don’t have any more of that pattern and you’ll have to order it and that takes too much time (running out but then needing another piece is mighty distressing).
Finally, I don’t find pre-papering to be faster. By the time I have done all of the extra planning that getting the papers in the right place requires, I have used up any potential advantage. I have great big blacksmith’s hands, and papering in a finished house is easy for me. All that having been said, I do pre-cut the papers used in the attic and on the Attic Partition before attaching the Roofs.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Assembly Notes page 6

Masking tape is a great universal puller for dollhouse assembly; here’s how to get the best out of it:

a. Use a `high-adhesion’ tape (“high-tack”), not the easy-to-remove painter’s tape.

J

b. Use enough tape so you can start a distance from the joint and rub down several inches on the end, then…

c. Stretch the tape as you pull it across the joint.

Rub the tape down so it will remain tight while the glue dries.

d. For more pull, put on two thicknesses at the same time, or even three.

Wood always reacts to uneven moisture from paint or from having one surface exposed to the open air and the other

facing a table top. It is part of the dollhouse builder’s art to straighten reactive wood as you are building, and masking

tape is your first and best tool. Many layers of tape will tighten or flatten even the most misbehaving panel, and it’s

normal to stretch bands of tape all the way around the house to hold the joints tight as the glue dries.

Don’t be shy when using masking tape!

Stretch

3-way tape on the corners
A: Getting Started: Do these things before the house assembly
Square the corners of the window, door, and stair holes with a utility knife – each cutout has a rounded corner left over from the tool that made it. Make two cuts in each corner from the outside (one from each direction), then cut from each direction on the inside to cut away the rounding in the corner so the window, door, or stairs will fit.
A Double-Cut Coarse file is easier for many people to use when squaring the corners. Make several strokes from each direction in each corner and test the Window or Door to see how it fits.
Stain the Shingles: Our pro uses Real Good Toys’ Shingle Dye (available at www.realgoodtoys.com or through your Real Good Toys miniature dealer) when dying the shingles for this house. Batch dye or stain the shingles and logs several days ahead of time so they will be dry when the time comes to use them (instructions are with the shingle dye). See also Page 8.
Demos and slideshows are at: www.realgoodtoys.help
Can I do it differently? Yes you can – but: The information on these pages is offered as “best practices” advice, and it is what we do when we build this house. But if you are customizing or have something else in mind, go ahead!… just test-ahead to make sure your planning includes everything!

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
B. Pre-Assembly Glue and tape together the Foundation sets.
Front/Back Foundation

page 7

Middle Foundations

Temporary!
Without glue, line up the edges of the Foundation Sets with floors to keep them square as the glue dries.

Porch Foundation

Glue and tape together the Upper Roof and Eave Sets. The Beveled edge of the Upper Roof goes up (away from the Eaves).

Test the Dormer Front between the Front Eaves to make sure the spacing is right

Front Eave

Front Roof Set Upper Roof

Bevel

Rear Roof Set Upper Roof
Rear Eave

Bevel

Glue and tape together the Front and Dormer Front

with the Dormer Front centered (29/16) on the Front.

Note: 29/16 is also the width of the window cutouts:

to mark the position for the Dormer Front, trace a

window cutout on both ends of the Front, then

center the Dormer Front between the marks.

29/16

Trace onto the front

Dormer Front Window cutout

Lined Up 29/16

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

page 8

C: Painting: The order of assembly and painting is a back-and-forth process of test-assembly, marking, painting, and final assembly. There are three things to keep in mind as you do this:
1. The quality of your paint job depends on sanding after the first coat, and sanding is easiest and best while the parts are un-assembled. Sand until the paint is smooth and transparent, and lots of the wood is showing.
2. Glue doesn’t stick to paint. Avoid painting edges, grooves, and areas that will be glued (like the outside of walls and roofs). Glue does, however, stick to a part that has been first-coated and sanded. For this reason, parts that will be the same color can be glued together after one coat and sanding down to the wood, but before the second coat of paint is applied.
3. Where different colored parts will be glued to each other, the neatest result will be achieved if the parts are marked and painted to just cover the mark, leaving the rest of the joint un-painted. That way, when they are glued together, the glue joint will have wood for strength (glue doesn’t stick well to paint), and the joint between colors will be perfect (impossible to achieve with masking for painting). A spot for the Porch Posts will be scraped in the paint on the Porch Floor.

Clean the edges and grooves before assembly. A little paint always builds-out the corner of an edge or groove and will make assembly harder and the glue joint less strong. Test the Floors in their grooves to see that they fit well.

Cleaning a groove with a Cabinet Scraper

Cleaning an edge with the back of a utility knife blade

Cleaning a groove with a knife

J

Do not stack painted parts – even when they feel dry they will stick and damage each other. Keep them spread out or separate them with waxed paper.
Flooring: Applied flooring (wood or tile), carpet, or painted floors are completed after construction, but Faux-Wood Flooring must be done now. See www.realgoodtoys.help for a video.
Stain the Logs Protect your hands and any surface the dye or stain may touch… stain doesn’t wash off of porous materials (like your skin).
My go-to colors are Real Good Toys Dye-1 Reddish Brown dye for the shingles, and Minwax Golden Oak or Early American Penetrating Stain for the logs, but other brands of stain can be equally good (red colors like cherry or redwood of any brand of stain are harder to manage). If you use “water clean-up” rubbing stain, take extra care to completely wipe anything that doesn’t soak in from the surfaces of the logs before laying them out to dry.
Stain the logs several days ahead of time so they will be fully dry when the time comes to glue them to the house. Stain the rounded face and sides, and the ends, but not the flat bottoms of the Logs and Nubs.
Staining the Logs after attaching them to the house is possible, but any glue (any!) that squeezes to the outside will leave a blotch. I always stain first and that’s what I recommend.

Faux-Wood Flooring

Stain the Logs.

Wipe off excess.

Lay them out to dry.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
Assembly Continue on to step 7 before letting the glue dry
“Front” is looking at the house from the street; “back” is the open side of the house; “left” and “right” are as though viewed from the front.
1. Spread glue in all the grooves of both Sides. Stand the Sides and Upper Floor on edge. Press the Upper Floor into the Sides’ upper grooves.
The stair hole can go on the left or on the right, but it must be closer to the front (up).

page 9

2. The Floors stick out 1/16″ past the Sides (this will fit into the grooves of the Front). Tape across the Sides above the front edges.
Tape

The Floors all stick out 1/16″ in front (up).

The Floors all stick out 1/16″ in front (up).

3. The Floors line up in back with the Sides (the edge on the Table). Tape the Base Floor firmly into the Sides’ bottom grooves.
You may need more tape than this (see page 6). Make sure the joints are tight. Note: My tape isn’t sticky enough and didn’t stay stretched for a tight joint so I `tabbed’ the ends to keep them tight.
Continue on to the next steps without letting the glue dry.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
4. Press the Groove Fill into the exposed groove within the Stair Hole. The Front Step is a handy block to push it flat with the surface of the wall.

Stair Hole

page 10

Continue on to the next steps without letting the glue dry.

Groove Fill

5. Attach the Front Spread glue in the grooves of the Front and on the front (up) edges of the Sides.

Press the Groove Fill flat

Spread glue in the grooves

Spread glue on the front (up) edges of the Sides

A. Set the Front on the housebody lined up carefully side-to-side at the base.

Lined up

Line up the Base corners A well taped corner

B. Tape all along the base. Make sure the Floor is all the way to the top of the groove.
Tape inside the door cutout
Continue on to the next steps without letting the glue dry.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

C. Adjust the Housebody so the Sides and the Front line up evenly from bottom to top (this is the step that straightens the house… don’t be shy about pushing the Sidewall back and forth until it lines up well).

Tape the Front firmly to the Sides.

Lined up

D. Tape thru the windows and Door to the back edges of the Floor. Tape the Front to the Sides.

page 11

6. Tape the Sides to the Floors in back. For more pull, tape all the way around the house at each floor’s level.
7. Stand the house on one end and add weights to the other end so there’s good pressure in the middle of the glue joints.
Review: Check all joints to be sure they are tight. Clean up excess glue. Temporarily put the Divider between the Floors as the glue dries.
Let the glue dry! Then take off the tape.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

page 12

Attach the Logs

Glue: Tacky Glue (like “Aleene’s”), Hot Melt glue, Silicone (like “Goop”), Panel Cement (like “Liquid Nails Porch and Deck adhesive)”, or Quick-Grip all can be used. I use a combination of Aleene’s and Hot-Melt.
Hot Melt glue is melted plastic that squirts out of a hot gun. Adhesion occurs when the glue gives heat to the surfaces to be glued, making the primary surface (the wall of your dollhouse), the secondary surface (the log), and the glue all above the melting temperature of the glue all at the same time – the moment the joint is pressed together.
For this reason, high-temperature hot melt glue guns (yes, there are “low temperature” versions) generally stick better as they deliver more heat to the joint.
Additionally, when used for logs, the glue will hold better if applied in plump dots rather than a smear as it will cool less in the time it takes to position the log and press it down, so the glue will carry more heat to give the wall and the log.
Speed counts: Once you’ve put those plump dots where they are needed, the glue begins to cool, and the more heat in the glue, the better. So test the log in position, then put dots of Tacky Glue where the log is going, and then put plump dots of Hot Melt only where they are needed to hold the joint tight while the Tacky Glue dries.
Finally, mixing dots of Tacky Glue and Hot-Melt glue gives the advantages of quick adhesion, permanent strength, economy, and a place to handle parts where you won’t get burned (very important!).

A plump dot of hot-melt glue

Make a cutting board with a backstop: Many of the log sizes are pre-cut, but many more will need cutting to fit the house. It is far easier to hold the log steady while you cut if you have something to push it against. A waste piece of plywood and a block of wood is great – but even a piece of the cardboard box the kit came in and a straight strip of the same cardboard glued to it will make your cutting tasks much easier.

Tacky Glue
Use the layout diagram (at the end of the instructions – detach the page). It tells you not only where the pieces go but where to get the parts you will be cutting for the best yield. There is at least one extra of the longest log so you have a resource if something goes wrong, but start out following the suggestions and use the long log as back-up if necessary.
Organize your logs by length

Backstop Diagram
Razor saw Cutting Board
Now you’re ready.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
8A. Cut four of the 1017/32″ logs to 915/16 to fit between the door and the edge of the Front. The door frame covers the ends of the logs, so the logs can line up with the side of the house, and can be a tiny bit short in the door.
Lines up on the side

915/16

8B. Glue the Log to the Front, lined up carefully along the bottom and on the side.
Dots of glue

A tiny bit short in the door

8C. The left-front is shown but the right-front is the same and should be done at the same time. Each time you glue on a course of logs check the top to make sure they line up with each other.

page 13

Complete and check every course before starting on the next-higher course
9A. Glue an 1123/32 Log (pre-cut) to the Side, lined up carefully at the bottom and in back; the front sticks out 3/8″ past the log glued to the front.

1123/32 Dots of glue

Lined up in back

Plump dots of hot-melt

Sticks out in front

9B. Repeat for the other side.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
Introducing the “Nub”

page 14
This is a preview of Nubs which won’t be glued on yet, but we don’t want you to think these log ends are all done and start rounding them or staining them.

Nub

Nubs glue to the back of the logs that stick out and complete the rounded look.

10A. Glue an 113/32 Log (pre-cut) to the Side, lined up in back and tight to the next lower log. This log should line up or be a tiny bit short in front.
10B. Glue a 1017/32 Log (pre-cut) to the front, lined up in the door and tight to the next lower log. This log should stick out 3/8″ on the side.
Sticks out 3/8″ Check with a Nub

11A. Glue another 915/16 Log (you cut them in step 8) to the front, lined up at the side. This log will cover the bottom of the window cutout (the material in the window will be removed later). B. Glue another 1123/32 Log to the Side, lined up in back and sticking out 3/8″ in front. C. Repeat for the other side, check to be sure the front and side logs are lining up with each other at the corner.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
12. Continue up the wall with the logs sticking out 3/8″ (the length of a Nub) first in front, then to the side… back and forth all the way up the wall for 14 courses.

page 15

Follow the layout diagram (page 29) for the sizes to use (41/32 are pre-cut, 37/8 are cut from 83/16 Logs, and 39/32 are cut from 71/16 Logs

Before you cut:
Do not depend on the ruler alone! Hold the log in place on the house and mark the length. For the logs that stick out, hold a Nub on the log and mark the length to the outside of the Nub. Once you have a length and have tested it to know it’s right, use that piece to guide the saw for the rest of the pieces you need.

Sharp Pencil

Mark

Check with a Nub

Glue

Check

Stop at 14 courses

Locate the 243/16 Logs side-to-side by holding a nub on each end.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
13A. Cut all the vertical logs from 83/16 logs. Mark and cut the first one to fit in the center of the peak Cut the log slightly oversize; glue it in place straight and centered. B. Mark and cut a log to go next to it, slightly oversized. Glue the log in place.

page 16

13C. Cut and attach 3 more logs (5 altogether) from 83/16″ logs; keep the offcuts. D. Mark, cut, and glue on the offcuts. Each of the 83/16 logs used in 13C (above) yields two vertical logs, so log #6 is the offcut from log #5 (“c” in the diagram on page 29), and log #7 is the offcut from log #4 (“b”), etc.

13E. Repeat for the other side of the Peak and for the other Side of the house.
14. File the oversize logs to exactly match the Peaks. Use a coarse double- cut file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a board.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
15. Glue and tape the Attic Ceiling into the groove at the peak; support it in the middle with the Attic Partition.

Attic Ceiling

page 17

16A. Without glue, test the Front Roof set on the house, lined up on top with the peaks.
The Front Roof Set

Lined up

16B. If the logs lift the bottom edge of the Front Roof, file them at the Roof’s angle until the Roof can sit all the way down on the Sidewalls.
Filing the Logs

The Log is holding up the Front Roof

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
17A. Identify the outside of each Roof: the outside is the larger side (the face of the bevel aims in). The Porch Roof is not beveled so either face can be the outside.
B. Draw shingle guidelines on the outside of the Front Roof and Rear Roof sets, on the Dormer Roof, and on the Porch Roof. Draw the first guideline 1/4″ above the bottom edge if you will be using a “Starter Row”, or 1/2″ if you are copper flashing the dripedge (see “Shingle the Roof” page 28); draw the rest of the lines spaced 1″ apart.

This is the outside

Bevel

Painting the interior? I temporarily put the roofs in place and trace the inside, then paint to just cover the tracing. When the paint is dry, sand down to the wood so the Dividers’ glue will hold, then assemble the roofs.
Place the Attic partition in the Dormer space, against the Front. Two people are useful for this step, or you can use the Attic Partition under one end of the Roof while you tape the other end. 18. Glue and tape the Front Roof set onto the house, lined up on top with the peaks. Without glue, tape the Rear Roof Set to the Front Roof Set, with the Rear Roof overlapping the Front Roof. Do not glue the Rear Roof set to the house yet to make wiring and interior finishing easier.
Lined up
Let the glue dry

page 18 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″ 1″
1/4″

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

19A. Wrap plastic film (food wrap) around the Attic Partition so it won’t get glued. Set the Attic Partition against one end of the Front Roof opening, touching the back of the Dormer Front.

Loose

Attic Partition

page 19
Before taping, the Dormer Front does not touch the Attic Partition all the way from floor to the top; after taping it does.
Tight
Attic Partition

Plastic wrap on the Attic Partition – avoid bunches and wrinkles
Tape the Dormer Front as necessary to hold it tight against the front edge of the Attic Partition all the way from the floor to the top.

Dormer Front

19B. Test the Dormer Sides on the Front Roof and Dormer Front. Adjust the position of the Dormer Side (slide it up or down the roof) so that the top of the Dormer Side lines up exactly with the top-front corner of the Dormer Front. Adjust this fit carefully and test it with a block held on top of the Dormer Side.
Check the fit of the front edge. If it is recessed or lined up with the front surface of the Dormer Front, rejoice! If it sticks out in front, file or trim it now.

Many light cuts

If the Dormer Side sticks out in front, file or trim it now

If the Dormer Side is recessed in front, proceed to step 19C

19C. Glue and tape the Dormer Sides to the Front

Roof and to the Dormer Front. Adjust the position

of the Dormer Side so that the top of the Dormer

Side lines up exactly with the top-front corner of the

Dormer Front. Do not be concerned with the fit of

the front edge… that will be covered with Trim.

Only fit the top.

Top-Front Corner

Using the Front Step to test the fit.
Top-Front Corner of the Dormer Front and the Top of the Dormer Side

Dormer Side Top Edge
Tape
19D. Press the Attic Partition sideways so it is tight with the edge of the Front Roof, then push the Dormer Side up against it. Tape the Dormer Side to the Dormer Front and Front Roof.

Attic Partition

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin 19E. Repeat for the other Dormer Side

Let the glue dry – take off the tape

page 20

Dormer Logs
The fit of the next course of logs on the Dormer Front can vary with changes in humidity, tiny variations in manufacture of the logs, or gluing technique. There may be a space between the top log and the bottom of the window, or the top log may cover the bottom of the window (either is OK). The Window Frame will cover up to 1/8″, but if the void here is more than that, cut a long log to fit the entire surface between the Eaves (there’s a section on “Carving Logs in the Windows” later). If the space is less than 1/8″, cut the 213/16″ logs from one 71/16″ log.

the bottom of the Window Don’t attach this log yet
Top Log

20A. Cut and attach logs to the Dormer

A reversed copy of each cutting diagram is on the last page

Use the pattern to cut the back angle the 2nd course

This is how they worked out for me… yours may be different lengths.

Front log is temporary – don’t glue.
Temporary front log shows the height.

Mark and cut

the front Log sticks out one Nub’s length.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
3rd course: The side log sticks out. 20B. Finish logging the Dormer, marking and cutting the logs, alternating the corners. 20C. When the glue is dry, cut and shape the top to fit.
Nub
21A. Glue Nubs to the back (flat) side of every log that sticks out. Let the glue dry.

page 21

21B. File and sand the ends 21C. Re-stain the ends; wipe off excess.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

page 22

22. Carving Logs in the Windows and Door: Cut along the hole to the corner. Carve and file away the material in the

cutout until the window fits. Take small slivers instead of big chunks when you cut for more control and safety.

Saw

Utility knife

Thin slivers are best

File

Window

Door

23. Set the Attic Partition in the center of the Dormer. Glue, tape, and weight the Dormer Roof to the house. Look inside at the front of the Attic Partition to make sure it touches the Front from bottom to top.
Dormer Roof, Centered

Attic Partition is in the center

Tape and Weight

Tape thru the windows, around the Dormer Roof and weights, and across the Front and Back Roofs.

Sight along the top of the Dormer Roof where it meets the house’s Upper Roof: make sure it’s straight. Don’t let the Dormer Roof hump or sag. It doesn’t expect to rest on the Attic Partition (The Attic Partition’s job is holding the Dormer Front straight, not holding the Dormer roof up). The tightness of the tape helps control how straight the joint is.

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

page 23

Wiring?
Now is the best time to run the “main loop” of tapewire from underneath the Base Floor (leave a 2″ flap) thru the electrification slots, up one sidewall, across the Attic Ceiling, down the other Sidewall, and back under the house, all in one piece

with no connections. When you put the house on the foundation, the tapewire will be accessible in the `cellar’ for a Jack or a wired turntable for the most robust, subtle, and convenient connection to house wiring.
see www.realgoodtoys.help for more on wiring this house

Make sure your work surface is truly flat for the next steps.

24A. Glue, tape, and weight the house to the Foundation, lined up in back and centered side-to-side. Check the front: centered side-to-side too. Tape thru the door. Let the glue dry.

Centered

Even front-to-back Tape
Clean up the glue – let the glue dry – take off the tape. 24B. Glue and tape the Porch Foundation to the House Foundation, centered side-to-side (15/16) Let the glue dry.
15/16

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

25A. Glue, tape, and weight the Porch Floor to the Porch

Foundation and the house, centered side-to-side.

Let the glue dry.

B. Set up the Porch Posts lined up with the front edge of the

Porch Floor, 1/4″ from each side, and spaced evenly (61/4″).

Mark the Posts’ positions and scrape

1/4″

a bare spot within the marks for glue.

C. Glue the Posts at the marks,

straight and square.

Let the glue dry.

Lined up

page 24 1/4″

26A. Cut two pieces of Porch Facia from a 1017/32″Log, one with the angles facing right (rounded face up on this diagram), one facing left (rounded face down).
26B. Cut a Front Facia 211/2 from a long log. Glue and tape the Side Facia to the Front Facia, square and lined up on the ends. Let the glue dry. C. Glue and weight the Porch Facia set to the bottom of the Porch Roof, spaced evenly at the sides and front (1/2″), and lined up at the back (diagram below). Let the glue dry.

45/8 on the edge
A copy of each cutting diagram is on the last page

Porch Side Facia
Porch Roof
27. Glue and tape the Porch Roof Set to the house and Posts. Put a double twist in the tape used to hold the Posts to the Roof (make it look like a `bow tie’) to pull the Posts tight to the Front Facia. Check that the Posts are straight. Let the glue dry.
Post Post
glue glue
Turn the Porch Roof set over to locate the glue

Porch Front Facia

Bow Tie

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
Window Assembly: www.realgoodtoys.help has more window assembly photos
28A. Paint (first-coat) the Window Frames. Do not get paint
on the ends, and wipe off any paint that has crept around the corner onto the ends. Sand the Window Frames and paint (secondcoat) only the edge with the groove for the Window Pane. The rest of the Frame will be painted after assembly.
Glue and rubber band together all the Window Frames with the Window Panes in place. The painted mullions are on one face of each pane and should always be on the outside (or on the inside— your choice, but keep it the same in every window). A word about mullions: Painted mullions can be nicked in handling before assembly or at any time in the life of the dollhouse. In use, it is seldom easy to see that a mullion has been nicked, but if you do want to touch-up the mullions, mask the edges of the damaged mullion with “magic” tape, rub the tape down on the edge next to the mullion, and paint between the tape with “white-out”). Let the paint dry before removing the tape.

Illustration #47 Window Frame

page 25

Groove for the Window Pane
These hands are holding the frame parts down against the table (not squeezing them together)

B. Cut and assemble eight sets of Shutters (4 pairs) from 1/8 x 9/16 Stripwood.

C. The Door: Pull the pin from the bottom of the Door and tip out the door panel for painting (tape the pins to the bottom of the threshold so they won’t be lost) Re-assemble in reverse order when painting is done.
Check the fit of the Door in the opening. Trim or file the opening if necessary for a good fit.

Face Down

This is the Inside
Pane Window Frame

D. Glue together the Window Interior Trim and the Door Interior Trim. Window and Door Interior Trim will be attached during interior finishing.

Door Interior Trim Window Interior Trim

Shutter

Paint (second-coat) the Window Frames, but stay well-away from the Window Panes

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
Finish the Inside…Plan Ahead!
Interior finishing involves so many choices! Will this house be a play-house or a display for miniatures? What accessories will be used and where will they go? Wiring? Wallpaper? Tile or carpeting? Every choice makes a difference in the order of finishing. Real Good Toys has provided materials for some basic interior work, but you may choose to do it differently.
Make your choices Get your materials Test your layout With the pieces in your hands, imagine the steps to get to where you want to be. Now you’re ready for your order of interior finishing. Here’s the order that our assembly pro follows for tackling most custom interior finishing: · Start the wiring (using “tape” style wiring) · Divider and Attic Partition · Finish wiring · Wallpaper and paint · Windows and Doors · Flooring · Baseboard and crown moldings · Stairs

page 26
29. Glue in the Window frames and door; glue on the Shutters. (see the page 1 photo). Install the Window Panes, Interior Window Frames, and Door Interior Trim.
Glue the Interior Window Trim to the wall with dots of glue in the corners

30A. Glue and tape a Stair Tread into the stair hole, lined up on top and closer to the front of the house. Let the glue dry. B. Glue a Stair Stringer to the Side Wall, the bottom of the Tread, and the front edge of the stair hole. C. Glue another Stringer in the same position, spaced slightly under 2″ from the wall (1/8″ from the end of the Top Tread). D. Glue the rest of the Treads to the Stringers and to the Wall.

31. The Divider and Attic Partition are an important support for the Floors/Roofs, but they can go anywhere you like. Consider your interior plan and locate the Dividers accordingly. Tip glued Dividers and put them in until they are almost against the front wall, set the base of the Divider down, lift the next higher floor, straighten the Divider, and push it the last bit into position (same for the Attic Partition).

32. Attach the Rear Roof .

Rear Roof set

33. Attach the Chimney

The Rear Roof overlaps the Front Roof

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin
Trim 34A. Measure and cut two pairs (2-left, 2-right) of Eave Trim 11″ from two 231/2″ S-Logs. A log end will have to be shaped for the Eave Trim to fit. Glue the Trim to the Roofs. Let the glue dry.

page 27

Eave Trim Dormer Eave Trim

B Measure and cut a pair (one left, one right) Dormer Eave Trim from a 12″ `S-Log’ (9/16″ wide). Glue them to the Dormer Roof lined up in front and at the top. Glue the S-Log 201/16 to the Dormer Roof front.
C. Knee Braces: File and sand a 12″ S-Log to repeat the rounded shape on the other side. Cut the log into 3″ lengths at 45o. Cut two more 3″ at 45o pieces and round them too.
the Log is up-on-edge 3″
Glue the Knee Braces to the Posts and inside of the Facia. The Knee Braces will come down the Posts just a little less than 13/8″ below the Facia.

A copy of each cutting diagram is on the last page
Rounded Re-staining the Knee Braces

Instructions for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

There is a slideshow of Shingling this house at www.realgoodtoys.help

Shingle the Roof: Glue: Use a thick, solvent-based panel adhesive available in caulking gun tubes at building supply stores. Look for the “Flammable” warning to know it is a Solvent Based adhesive, and follow the manufacturer’s warnings. If there are no warnings or if it says “water clean up”, then it is an acrylic based adhesive and will curl the shingles. Fabric glue or Hot-Melt glue will also work (see “Shingles” on www.realgoodtoys.help).
A. Glue a “starter row” of 1/4″ long Shingles along the bottom edge of the Roof, or “Flash” the edge with a 1/2″ strip of copper (#SC from Real Good Toys) to prepare the bottom edge of the Roof for the first row of shingles
B. Apply a thin line of adhesive just below the lowest guideline, long enough for several shingles. Press the top edge of a Shingle into the line of glue, smearing the excess upward. Hold the first Shingle steady and press another Shingle into the adhesive, tight to the first. Hold the next Shingle and press-in-and-smear-up another… etc. Repeat all the way across the roof, cutting the last Shingle to fit
Continue up the roof one row at a time. Start the next row with a half Shingle so that the seam between Shingles weaves back and forth as you go up the roof. Line up the top edge of each row (except the starters) with the guidelines.
Cut shingles to fit around the Chimney to keep the bottom edge of every row straight.
Cut the top row of Shingles so that the next lower row has 1″ showing. C. Finish the top peak with a “Boston Lap”: pairs of Shingles laid horizontally. Start at the ends of the peak, and, with each pair overlapping the previous pair, work to the middle. Cap the
middle with one pair covering the runs from each direction.

Starters First row

Shingle the Roof page 28
Shingle Guideline One Inch
Line of Adhesive “Starter Row”

Boston Lap at the Peak

Half Shingle

You’re done with the construction part of your project.
Enjoy the Rest!

Layout Diagram for J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin

Layout page 29

Large Log: (7/32 x 3/4 rounded)

The list at left shows not only what logs are used in the

8 J0968 247/32 (two are extra – just in case)

diagram but what log they get cut from. For instance:

2 used as is 2 23
1 1917/32 1 Porch Facia (211/2 see page 24) 13 J0971 1017/32
4 Used as is 4 915/16 4 used for Dormer Sides 1 Porch Side Facia

8 J0968 247/32 (this is how they come)

2

used as is (247/32)

2 23

(cut from 2 of the 247/32)

1 1917/32 (cut from 1 of the 247/32)

1 Porch Facia (211/2) (cut from 247/32)

· Logs with part-numbers come pre-cut in the kit

· Indented sizes are cut from the logs with part-numbers

that are above them on the list.

14 J0973 71/16

7 used as is 3 (6) 39/32 3 (6) 31/32 1 (2) 213/16

12 J0974 41/32 used as is

14 J0969 1123/32 used as is

14 J0970 113/32 used as is

24 J0972 83/16 18 Sidewall Peak vertical logs (pg 16) 3 (6) 37/8 3 (6) 35/8
44 J0979 3/8 “Nubs” Small Log: (7/32 x 9/16 rounded)
3 J0976 231/2 (some is extra – just in case) 2 (2pr) Eave Trim part (2) 3@45o Knee Brace
1 J0978 201/16 used as is
2 J0977 12 1 (pr) Dormer Side Trim 1 (4) 3@45o Knee Brace

31/32 35/8 31/32 35/8 31/32 35/8 213/16
1017/32

1917/32 +
71/16
71/16 71/16 71/16 71/16 71/16 71/16
243/16 +
23
243/16 +
23

31/32 35/8 31/32 35/8 31/32 35/8 213/16
1017/32

39/32

41/32

41/32

39/32

37/8 39/32

41/32 41/32

41/32 41/32

37/8 39/32

37/8

41/32

41/32

37/8

35/16-1/32

41/32

41/32

39/32

37/8

41/32

41/32

37/8

915/16

915/16

109/16 -1/32

1017/32

915/16

915/16

Approximate

83/16
711/16
65/8 A
59/16 B 47/16 C
33/8 C
25/16 B
11/4 A
113/32
1111/16 +
113/32
1111/16 +
113/32
1111/16 +
113/32
1111/16 +
113/32
1111/16 +
113/32
1111/16 +
113/32
1111/16 +

Dormer Eave Trim Eave Trim

Porch Facia

Cutting Diagram J535 Moss Creek Log Cabin 45/8 at the edge

Dormer Side
This is how they worked out for me… yours will probably be different lengths.

9/16″ Logs

Knee Brace

the Log is up-on-edge 3″

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