Atlantic Technology 444SB-BLK 12″ Powered Subwoofer Operational Guide

Atlantic Technology 444SB-BLK 12″ Powered Subwoofer

Specifications

• TYPE/FEATURES: Powered subwoofer, sealed enclosure
• BASS DRIVER: 10” (254mm) long-throw composite cone
• OUTPUT POWER: 180W RMS
• DISTORTION (AMPLIFIER): <0.5%
• FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 34Hz – 250Hz ±3 dB
• INPUT IMPEDANCE: 10k ohm
• PEAK OUTPUT: 102dB SPL into 1500 cubic Feet
• DIMENSIONS (WXHXD) INCLUDING GRILLE: 14¼ x 13¼ x 15-3⁄8 in / 368 x 337 x 391mm
• WEIGHT: 31lbs/14.1kg
• POWER REQUIREMENTS: 110-120/220-240V, 50-60Hz, 300W Max

Introduction

The last one and a half octaves of sound, or the deep bass, must be reproduced with ease by any high-quality home theatre or music system. A powered subwoofer, the 224 SB adds drama to movie action sequences and brings music to life with its powerful bass. What distinguishes an excellent sound system from a simply mediocre one is clean, strong deep bass. It consists of strong low- distortion amplifiers and low-resonance, long-throw speakers that are enclosed in a robust, non-resonant sealed housing. This “acoustic suspension” method is used because it guarantees even, smooth bass down to the lowest audible frequencies without any unwelcome peaks or dips.

Safety Precautions

CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electric shock, do not remove the cover (or back). No user serviceable parts inside. Refer to qualified personnel.

WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire or electric shock, do not expose this appliance to rain or moisture. This device generates a fair amount of heat. Make sure nothing blocks the ventilation openings on the top and bottom of the unit.

The lightning flash with arrowhead, with in an equilateral triangle, is intended to alert the user to the presence of uninsulated “dangerous voltage” within the product’s enclosure that may be of sufficient magnitude to constitute a risk of electrical shock to persons.

The exclamation point within an equilateral triangle is intended to alert the user to the presence of important operating maintenance (servicing) instructions in the literature accompanying the appliance.

224, 334 and 444 SB Subwoofer Rear Panel

1. Low Level Output The outputs allow daisy chaining of multiple subwoofers, or as a return path back to the processor.
2. Low Level Input Use the input to connect to the subwoofer or LFE line out from your  processor/receiver.
3. Crossover Switch When in the NORMAL position, adjustment of the crossover can be made by the Crossover Control. If being fed a pre-filtered or THX signal, place the switch at the BYPASS position.
4. Crossover Control An adjustable (40Hz to 160Hz) @ 18dB per octave low-pass crossover.
5. Phase Switch This switch allows precise acoustic matching with satellite speaker systems whose output may be phase reversed.
6. Status LED This will be green for “on” condition, amber for “standby”
7. Standby Switch When in ON position, the amplifier will always be on. When in the AUTO position, the amplifier will be in Automatic Standby Mode. (pages 4 and 8)
8. Product Serial Number Write this number in the space provided on page 2 for future reference.
9. Voltage Select Switch Voltage switch for use in different countries. This switch will be set when you receive the unit. Change this setting only when you are sure your application requires it. For US, the switch should be set to the 110-120V position.
10. On/Off Switch Use this switch to turn the amplifier completely on or off.
11. AC Input Use the included power cord to connect your amplifier to a wall outlet.
12. Front Mounted Variable Level Control and Status LED Shown in greater detail on page 8.

Clear Filter™ Technology and Other Features

Your Atlantic Technology powered subwoofer has been engineered using the latest technology and finest components available. It features:

Exclusive – Atlantic’s Clear Filter Technology

Clear Filter Technology™ is an exclusive Atlantic design feature that ensures the cleanest, most articulate bass possible from a subwoofer. The small cabinet of a powered subwoofer—any subwoofer—has a deleterious effect on the subwoofer’s sound. The dimensions of the cabinet conspire to produce audibly intrusive interference, leading to colored, ‘slow,’ and muddy bass response.

Therefore, we have developed Clear Filter Technology ™. Unlike conventional “limiters” and “feedback loops,” CFT incorporates special circuitry into the subwoofer amplifier that actually eliminates the negative effects that the enclosure itself has on the sound. That’s why other subwoofers, regardless of their power ratings or their limiters, can’t match the sound of an Atlantic subwoofer for detail and accuracy. This benefit is found in all Atlantic subwoofers, regardless of size, price or configuration.

A long-throw composite cone driver with a vented motor structure and 2” high temperature voice coil

This powerful driver has a very stiff cone that acts like a piston throughout its operating range. Its massive magnetic motor assembly and high temperature component parts deliver exceptional performance and reliability.

Sealed enclosure design for low distortion and deep bass output

Sealed enclosure woofer designs are inherently low in distortion, and deliver deep smooth bass response with a gradual and predictable roll-off below resonance. As with all Atlantic Technology subwoofers, we have paid close attention to providing accurate musical bass reproduction along with terrific special effects.

High-current amplifiers

The output stage of these amplifiers are capable of very high cur-rent delivery for exceptional driver control and cool operation.  They have been precision matched and equalized to our rugged drivers. Together they deliver powerful, controlled bass with great articulation and authority.

A useful in room working frequency range of 25Hz to 150Hz

Many subwoofers offer specifications that look great on paper, but in real world use deliver less than promised. Atlantic Technology sub-woofers are over-designed to ensure that they will deliver their rated performance in your room, when properly placed and adjusted.

An adjustable (40Hz to 140Hz) @ 18dB per octave Low-Pass crossover

The steep upper end roll-off slope of 18dB per octave allows for much better bass integration with the satellite speakers while making the woofer less localizable.

NOTE: If you are using a surround Processor/Receiver that includes its own filtered subwoofer output (or a THX Certified Processor/Receiver), we recommend that you set the crossover control to the Bypass position.

Two low level inputs, two low level outputs

The outputs allow daisy chaining of multiple subwoofers, or as a return path back to the processor.

A Phase Invert switch (Normal/Invert)

This switch allows precise acoustic matching with satellite speaker systems whose output may be phase reversed. This switch also allows you to compensate for unusual room acoustics that occur when the woofer is physically separated from the main speakers. Be sure to try the Phase switch in both positions when you set up your subwoofer. Even if you’ve simply changed the built-in Low-Pass crossover set-tings it’s a good idea to try the Phase switch in both positions, since the crossover control and the Phase switch acoustically interact with each other. Pay particular attention to the transition of bass from the woofer to the satellites, listening for smooth and well defined bass throughout the range.

Convenient front panel mounted Level Control

Automatic standby operation, LED indicator

Automatic standby features signal sensing turn-on with 7-10 minute turn-off delay. There’s a multi-color LED status indicator that lets you know when the unit is on or in standby. Automatic Standby can be defeated by placing the rear mounted switch in the ON position.

An AC cord power input socket

Your subwoofer comes supplied with a heavy-duty detachable power cord.

Designed and built to meet all current US, Canadian and European safety requirements

Connecting Your Subwoofer

Use the low-level (RCA jack) subwoofer line out of your surround sound receiver/processor. Simply connect your subwoofer with a high quality shielded cable as shown in the diagram on page 7. Please consult your processor/receiver manual for further information.

WARNING: To prevent risk of electrical shock or damage to your equipment, always unplug all component AC cords before proceeding with speaker and component connections! The last step in wiring your system should be plugging in the AC cords!

Subwoofer Line Out to Low Level In

Run an RCA cable from your receiver’s Sub Out jack to the L/Mono input jack on the back of the subwoofer (Figure 3). If your receiver/processor has stereo subwoofer outputs, connect these to both the L/Mono and R jacks on the back of the subwoofer (Figure 4).

Using the Low Level Output

If desired, you can run a low level signal through the subwoofer and out to another unit. This way you can add an additional subwoofer with minimal additional wiring. The signal that comes out of the output jacks is identical to the input signal.

Power Connection

Connect the power cord to an AC outlet only after making all other connections to the subwoofer. This will avoid any chance of accidentally activating the subwoofer while wiring. Atlantic Technology does not recommend plugging the subwoofer into the switched outlet of an amplifier, preamplifier, or receiver. The power demands of the sub-woofer amplifier may exceed the power rating of the switched outlet and may damage the equipment.

Your subwoofer is totally automatic in its operation. The automatic on/off circuitry will only activate the subwoofer in the presence of an audio signal from your system. After 7-10 minutes with no signal detected from the rest of the system, the amplifier will shut itself off and go back into standby mode. When the sub is in operating mode, the status LED will glow green. The LED will glow amber in the Standby mode and power consumption in this mode is negligible. Standby operation can be completely bypassed by placing the standby switch on the rear panel to the ON position.

Low Level Connections with One Subout/LFE Output

Low Level Connections with Two Subout/LFE Outputs

Placement and Operation

Generally speaking, the best location for your new subwoofer is the front of the room, close to a corner (Figure 5). Every room has its own unique sound characteristics, and flexibility in the exact placement of the sub-woofer is always desirable. The closer the subwoofer is placed to a wall and especially a corner, the more and deeper the bass response you will hear. Because of an acoustic phenomenon known as “room gain,” a well-designed wubwoofer playing in an acoustically-favorable room may well deliver low bass deeper than its rated response. However, in some rooms, corner placement can produce a “one note” boomy effect. Under such circumstances the subwoofer may work better away from the corner. Experiment to find the best position in your room.

HELPFUL HINT: A particularly useful experiment is to place the subwoofer right at the prime listening position (move your couch or chair out of the way and put the sub in its place). Then play something with good bass content (preferably music), and walk around the room, listening to the subwoofer’s response. When you locate an area that has an ample amount of well-defined bass, you’ve found a good place to locate the sub.

System Set Up

When setting up a complete home theater we strongly recommend that you use a Sound Pressure Level meter. Radio Shack® has a good one that is very affordably priced (approximately $50). To use this meter, turn on your system, put the Processor/Receiver in the Test Mode and set its main volume control to 0dB. Sit in the prime listening position, set the SPL meter to the 70dB scale, Slow Response, and C Weighting. Now, holding the meter pointed up and in front of you, let the system cycle its test tone from speaker to speaker and set every speaker to 75dB using the individual level settings in the Processor/Receiver. As tempting as it may be to set the subwoofer and/or surround speakers higher than 75dB, listen again after calibration and see if you can acclimate to these levels. Try watching several different movies and keep in mind that the goal is to have a system that sounds like you’re actually “in the movie.” When using the latest discrete digital electronics which include internal level controls for all channels, we recommend setting the front mounted Level Control to its preset position and using the Processor/Receiver’s built-in subwoofer level control.

If you decide not to use an SPL meter try to set all the speaker levels the same using the Test Tones. Of course, this will be much more difficult without the meter, especially for the subwoofer.

Subwoofer Tuning Without an SPL Meter or Test Tones

Start your listening with the subwoofer Crossover control set at around 100Hz or in the Bypass position if you’re using a THX Certified processor or one with a built-in crossover. Set the phase switch to Normal, and the front panel variable level control (Figure 6) to the Preset position. Play some music that you know has good bass content, and turn the level control up until you just start to hear the subwoofer working. Now, from your normal listening position, determine whether the subwoofer is playing loudly enough and filling in the bass frequencies of the music evenly. If adjustment is necessary, start by changing the setting in the processor or with the sub’s level control if your processor lacks a sub-woofer level adjustment.

If the bass seems too ponderous, boomy, or heavy, no matter how you set the level, try moving the subwoofer away from the wall/corner. If the bass seems too thin, try moving the subwoofer closer to the wall/corner. Small differences in positioning can make big differences in bass response. When you find a position that seems to work well, try switch-ing the phase switch between its two settings, listening particularly to the transition from the subwoofer to the satellites.

How Much is Enough?

Sometimes people prefer more bass impact for movies. Using the movie setting for music can result in overpowering and unnatural  bass reproduction. You may wish to determine both a video level and an audio level if you find yourself falling into this camp. Remember however, the most common error people make when setting up their system is to play the subwoofer (and surrounds) too loudly. Of course, the Home Theater Police will not arrest you for this act. But should you desire the most accurate overall reproduction, a well-balanced sound from deepest bass to highest treble is the best way to get it. Have fun. Experiment. Enjoy.

Dual Subwoofer Placement

When two subwoofers are used, you may wish to place them asymmetrically; that is, in slightly different positions in the room (Figure 7). This will reduce common mode room resonances that occur with symmetrically positioned subwoofers. You can also try placing the subwoofers in the same corner, if you wish. Experiments have shown this to be a viable means of producing smooth bass response in many rooms.

Using the Low-Pass Crossover Control

When used with the System 1400 or 2400, the Crossover control should be set at around 100Hz unless you are using a processor with its own built-in crossover. The goal is to optimize the performance of the system by ensuring that the subwoofer and satellites produce a cohesive and well integrated sound “picture.”

Many surround sound receivers and processors offer a choice of crossover settings, typically between 80 Hz and 120 Hz. If yours does, we recommend using the 100Hz setting when using small speakers such as those in the System 1400 or 2400. Consult your electronics owner’s manual for more details. Higher crossover frequencies pass more bass to the sub but can sound boomy and may be more easily localized to the subwoofer.

Higher crossover frequencies may be suitable, however, when using very small satellites that have no real low frequency performance. Settings lower than 80Hz should be employed if you are using larger speakers that have extended bass response. This way, the subwoofer will only reproduce the very lowest bass frequencies that are in the range where the large main speakers begin to roll off.

It’s generally undesirable to have the main speakers and the subwoofer overlap too much. Larger speakers means a lower Low-Pass crossover frequency, smaller speakers means a higher Low-Pass crossover frequency. Consult the manufacturer’s specified low frequency response for your main speakers to determine the appropriate Low-Pass setting on your subwoofer. In the end, however, a little time spent experimenting will generally result in dramatically better bass response.

The Phase Invert Control

A subwoofer operating out of phase with the rest of the system won’t provide optimum low frequency performance. To correct for this, a switch that will reverse the phase of the subwoofer is provided on the amplifier panel. Listen to a monaural musical source with strong bass content. (For example, you can use the mono switch on an FM tuner or preamp, or use a Y-connector on the outputs of one of your source components to get a mono signal.)

Experiment with the position of the phase switch to get the smoothest bass. It should be obvious which the correct setting is. In particular, there will be a more integrated transition between the satellites and the subwoofer when they are properly phased.

A Word About Bass, Center Channel Modes and System Set Up

Many surround processors and receivers feature a “Wide” and “Normal” mode for the center channel speaker. Atlantic Technology recommends that the center channel be operated in the “Normal” mode when using a powered subwoofer. The center channel speaker will sound more dynamic and the intelligibility of the system will generally be improved when in the “Normal” mode.

With discrete digital systems (Dolby Digital, DTS, etc.) many controllers provide a Bass Management option, which lets you set the front and rear speakers in a limited bandwidth (Small) or full range (Large) mode. When using a subwoofer with Atlantic Technology speakers we recommend setting such a controller to the Small position for all the speakers in the system.

Care of Your Subwoofer

The 224 SB, 334 SB and 444 SB are constructed from Medium Density Fiberboard. MDF is a non-resonant material ideal for speaker system enclosures. To clean the cabinet you may use a soft cloth either dry or slightly dampened with clean water. Be careful not to wet the cabinet or allow any water to enter the cabinet seams. Avoid placing your speakers in direct sunlight or near a source of heat that may, over time, damage the finish.

IMPORTANT: Save Your Boxes! If you can do so, save the carton, packing pieces and plastic bags that came with your subwoofer. They will be useful in case you move or have to ship your subwoofer for any reason. In any case, save all packing materials until you are certain that the system has suffered no damage in shipment. If you find such damage, either visible or internal, contact your dealer immediately for the proper return procedure.

Subwoofer Troubleshooting Guide

Once your subwoofer is set up, you should have many years of maintenance free enjoyment from your system. However, if you should encounter a problem, refer to the following guide to help you find the solution. If a problem persists, you should contact your local authorized Atlantic Technology dealer.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

How much power does this subwoofer require?****

It requires 325 watts of power.

Can I leave the powered subwoofer on all the time?****

Yes, if your subwoofer has an automatic standby mode, you may leave it on all the time. Subwoofers that are on standby consume less energy and last longer.

Are you a fan of 12 or 10 bass?****

Choose a 10″ model if you want a small, uncomplicated subwoofer that produces precise bass without distortion.

What subwoofer size has the best bass?****

10 inch subs are effective at generating precise bass without taking up much room. 12 inch subs offer greater power and are perfect for deeper bass. If you want heavy bass and both of them operate together, choose the 12-inch sub.

How long does it take to break in a subwoofer?****

20 to 24 hours is an extended period of time. It may be configured to have a strong signal all night long. After setting everything up, you may install and continue your trip.

What is the lifespan of a subwoofer?****

A subwoofer may last anywhere between five and fourteen years. The typical individual should be able to get 10+ years out of their subwoofer if it is properly maintained and not misused.

Does my sound system require a bigger alternator?****

You will gain from upgrading to a higher output alternator if your sound system requires more power than the original alternator can provide.

How long can a car’s battery run a subwoofer?****

If your music system uses additional speakers, subwoofers, or amplifiers, your battery may deplete more quickly. For example, a subwoofer may cut the battery life to one to two hours. Using your lights will cause your battery to discharge more quickly.

What may damage a subwoofer?****

One of two things has happened when a subwoofer is damaged or partially blown: either it got too much power or too much signal.

How does an overpowered subwoofer sound?****

It’s nice to turn it up, but doing so causes the sound to be distorted. In addition to sounding bad, doing this repeatedly can harm your speakers and subwoofers.

Can loud bass damage speakers?****

It’s nice to turn it up, but doing so causes the sound to be distorted. In addition to sounding bad, doing this repeatedly can harm your speakers and subwoofers.

How can I make my subwoofer sound stronger?****

To determine which area of the room has the deepest bass, try relocating the sub there. Placing the sub closer to the wall’s center would be an alternative and may produce a bass response that is smoother and more precise.

Does bass quality increase with wattage?****

Like most things, bass necessitates a comparison of quantity and quality. It’s not necessarily true that more bass means better bass. A subwoofer’s wattage indicates how strong it is; a greater wattage indicates a more potent subwoofer.

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