StewMac Sun Fuzz Pedal Kit Installation Guide
- August 4, 2024
- StewMac
Table of Contents
- Sun Fuzz Pedal Kit
- Specifications:
- Product Usage Instructions:
- Tools and Supplies Required:
- Tools and Supplies Helpful:
- Assembly Instructions:
- Powering On:
- Q: Can I use a different power supply with the pedal?
- Q: What is the purpose of the Tone control on the SunFace
- Q: Are all parts interchangeable if needed?
Sun Fuzz Pedal Kit
“`html
Specifications:
-
Based on the Analogman SunFace
-
Uses Silicon BC-108 transistor for brighter tone, higher gain,
and temperature stability -
Features Volume, Fuzz, and Tone controls
-
Requires standard 9V DC center-negative power supply (not
included) consuming less than 100mA
Product Usage Instructions:
Tools and Supplies Required:
- Soldering Iron #0502
- Solder Wick #0504
- Solder #0505
- PC Board Holder #0500
- Guitar Tech Wrench Set #3691 or nut drivers/sockets
- Wire Cutter #1607
- Long-Nose Pliers #1610
Tools and Supplies Helpful:
- Fine-Gauge Wire Stripper #1606
- Multimeter PM16B #3607
- Magnifying glass or OptiVISOR #1685
- Pedal Building Tool Set #2318
- Soldering Aids #0521
Assembly Instructions:
-
Sort all parts and check off according to the provided parts
list. -
Follow the step-by-step instructions in the user manual for
soldering components onto the PCB. -
Use the required tools and supplies to ensure a successful
build.
Powering On:
-
Connect a standard 9V DC center-negative power supply to the
pedal. -
Ensure the power supply provides less than 100mA of
current. -
Turn on the pedal using the power switch.
FAQ:
Q: Can I use a different power supply with the pedal?
A: It is recommended to use a standard 9V DC center-negative
power supply with less than 100mA output for optimal performance.
Using a different power supply may affect the pedal’s
functionality.
Q: What is the purpose of the Tone control on the SunFace
pedal?
A: The Tone control allows you to further adjust the desired
tone of the pedal, giving you more flexibility in shaping your fuzz
sound.
Q: Are all parts interchangeable if needed?
A: While electrical properties remain the same, the appearance
of parts may vary based on availability. If you are unsure about
part compatibility, please contact us for assistance.
“`
1
BASED ON THE ANALOGMAN SUNFACE
This kit finds its roots in the classic Fuzz Face, which while very popular,
isn’t the most easy-to-get-along-with fuzz pedal on the market. Eventually,
Analogman’s Mike Piera went about fine-tuning the original circuit to make it
more friendly and consistent with a little bit of work from the player dialing
in the pedal with their guitar and amp. Mike calls this pedal the SunFace.
Based on the BC-108 version Analogman SunFace, the Silicon BC-108 transistor
provides a brighter tone, higher gain, and temperature stability that
Germanium transistors do not have. And at a lower cost to boot. This
transistor first started appearing in the Fuzz Face around 1969 as a
replacement for the finicky Germanium components. In addition to the standard
Volume and Fuzz controls, the Sun Fuzz also features a tone control to further
dial in the desired tone.
The SunFace is still being made by Analogman but is subject to long lead times
and high resale prices. Currently listing on the used market at around $500 as
of 1/22.
FIRST TIME BUILDING A PEDAL? Kick back and watch our 4-part series where we
show you the basics of pedal building. Even if you’re a complete beginner
don’t worry! We go over everything from unboxing, to choosing the right
soldering iron, to making every connection. We also give tips on painting your
pedal. Visit: stewmac.com/pedal-build
2
Not pictured: #1 Phillips screwdriver,
and supplies to paint your pedal, clear
silicone adhesive, spray finish.
Soldering Iron #0502
Solder Wick #0504
Power: Model 12252 requires a standard 9V DC center-negative
Solder #0505
power supply (not included) and
consumes less than 100mA.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES (REQUIRED OR RECOMMENDED)
PC Board Holder #0500
Guitar Tech Wrench Set #3691
or nut drivers/sockets
Wire Cutter #1607
Long-Nose Pliers #1610
3
Fine-Gauge Wire Stripper #1606
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES (HELPFUL)
Multimeter PM16B #3607
Magnifying glass or OptiVISOR #1685
Our Pedal Building Tool Set #2318 is the perfect companion for new pedal
builders who do not already have a lot of tools and supplies.
Soldering Aids #0521
4
Note: While electrical properties remain the same, the appearance of parts may vary based on availability. If you are ever unsure, please contact us via the information on the back of this manual.
We know you are excited to get started building. That said, one of the keys to a successful build, is
PARTS LIST
taking the time to get to know all of your parts. Sort all of your pedal’s
parts and check off according to the parts lists that follow. If you are not
familiar with what they do, the next section will give you a little primer.
100K resistor (1) #7365
Brown Black Black Orange Brown
1K resistor (1) #7357
Brown Black Black Brown Brown
33K resistor (1) #7409
Orange Orange Black Red Brown
470 resistor (1) #7355
Yellow Violet Black Black Brown
4.7K resistor (1) #7359
Yellow Violet Black Brown Brown
1uF
1µF capacitor (1)
7337
22uF
22µF capacitor (1)
7311
5
WIMA 0,01 100-
47uF
1N5817 rectifier diode (1)
7522
47µF capacitor (1)
7478
10nF capacitor (1)
7331
PARTS LIST (CONT)
5K trim pot (1)
502
100738
50K trim pot (1)
503
100739
BC-108 Transistor (2)
101123
30″ of 22 gauge lead wire (1)
101978
5mm white LED (1)
7422
5mm LED mounting bezel (1)
7432
6
2.1mm DC power connector (1)
7468
B1K linear taper pot (1)
7451
B5K linear taper pot (1)
7452
A250K audio taper pot (1)
7531
3PDT latching footswitch (1)
1611
1/4″ mono jack (2)
4652
Control knobs (3)
7501
Circuit board [PCB] (1)
IN GND SW OUT
Breakout board (1)
7
PARTS LIST (CONT)
Pre-drilled enclosure (1) Sticker sheet (1)
1
PAINTING YOUR PEDAL
HOUSING
Give your pedal a custom paint job by painting and adding the stickers provided in this kit (or custom decals that you can create on your own). Doing this pre-build is not only fun, but it’s much easier than disassembling the pedal to paint it once you put it together. Don’t forget to order quality primer and lacquers from stewmac.com.
1. To minimize redoing steps, make sure you have a solid idea of the look and
feel you’re going for.
2. Lightly sand housing with a P240 grit sandpaper and wipe clean any debris.
3. Cover the holes from the inside with masking tape.
4. On a large piece of cardboard, elevate the housing top and bottom on a
couple of small blocks of wood.
5. With long, slow strokes, spray one light coat of primer or primer/ paint
on top and bottom. Allow 45 minutes of drying time between next two to three
coats.
6. If you’re using primer followed by paint method, paint 3 coats with 45
minutes between coats.
7. Now, add your Sun Fuzz sticker and any other desired decoration (paint
pens, acrylic paint, Sharpie etc.). Allow drying time.
8. Add 3 coats of clear coat glaze with 45 minutes between coats. Wait at least 2 hours before adding parts.
8
UNDERSTANDING ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
A number of different components are used to make an effects pedal. Here’s an
overview of what they do..
RESISTORS A resistor is used in an electrical circuit to present an opposition
to current flow. It resists the amount of current that can pass through it.
A resistor’s value–the amount of resistance it creates–
Band 1
BLACK
0
BROWN 1
RED
2
ORANGE 3
YELLOW 4
GREEN 5
BLUE
6
VIOLET 7
GRAY
8
WHITE 9
GOLD
SILVER
Band 2 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Band 3 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Multiplier 1 10 100 1,000 10,000 100,000 1,000,000 10,000,000 100,000,000 1,000,000,000 0.1 0.01
Tolerance
+/- 1% +/- 2%
+/- 0.5% +/- 0.25% +/- 0.10% +/- 0.05%
+/- 5% +/- 10%
5-band code:
4 7 0 x10 ±1% = 4.7K ±1%
K = 1,000
is rated in ohms (). The higher the ohmic value, the greater the resistance to this flow of current. For example, a 100 resistor creates ten times as much
4-band code: read Bands 1 and 2 same as above, then Band 3 is the Multiplier and Band 4 is the Tolerance.
resistance as a 10 resistor.
Resistor values are indicated by colored bands, read from left to right. The first color in the code is usually the one painted closest to a lead. When a gold or silver band is present, it’s always one of the last colors in the code. If
you’re having trouble reading the color bands, there are apps that make easy working of identifying them. Or, try using a multimeter to read a resistor’s value. Just set your multimeter to ohms and connect the test leads on each side of the resistor.
99
CAPACITORS The two main uses of capacitors are to store electricity and to block the flow of DC current.
Capacitor values are typically printed on the component. The key values with caps are their voltage and capacitance.
1u F
.1J63
110001VJ
102J
The voltage spec for a cap refers to how much DC voltage it can handle at any given time. If this rating is exceeded, the capacitor will fail.
Resistors and capacitors may also be referred to with shorthand notation on
the printed circuit board when there is a decimal in the value. For example,
the place on the board for the 4.7K resistor will read 4K7 and the spot for a
2.2nF capacitor will read 2n2. This is done to save space on the board and
make the labels as clear as possible.
Some capacitors have polarity and some don’t. It’s extremely important to
install polarized caps correctly in a circuit. The negative lead will often be
indicated by a band of arrows pointing to the negative lead and will be
shorter than the positive lead. The positive lead of an electrolytic cap will
be longer and won’t have any arrows pointing to it.
Capacitance, measured in farads, refers to how much electricity a capacitor can hold. One farad (1F) would be much too large for use in a pedal. Caps for pedals are rated between millionths of a farad, called microfarads (F), billionths of a farad, called nanofarads (nF), or trillionths of a farad: picofarads (pF). .001F = 1nF = 1,000pF.
- Installing capacitors with the polarity backwards will make the circuit malfunction and quickly destroy the capacitor– even causing it to explode. 100
DIODES Diodes are used where you want electricity to flow in only one direction, such as power rectification, and also to limit how much current can flow, to create “clipping” distortion.
TRANSISTORS Transistors are used to amplify electrical signals. They have a square tab on one side. Be sure to match the tab to the outlined tab shown on the circuit board when installing.
Diodes are also polarized, so they need to be installed in the correct orientation. The stripe around one end marks the negative (minus) lead of the diode. On the circuit board, the printed outline of the diodes also shows this stripe. Install each diode so that its stripe matches the direction shown on the circuit board.
INTEGRATED CIRCUITS Integrated circuits are
complex, tiny, self- TL072CP
contained collections of components that contain a complete circuit. Op-amps,
audio processors, and linear voltage regulators are three kinds of integrated
circuits.
1111
POTENTIOMETER A potentiometer, or pot, is a variable resistor. This means as
the knob shaft is rotated, the DC resistance will change. There are three lugs
or soldering terminals on a conventional potentiometer. The outside two are
the ends of the resistive strip, and the center lug is connected to the
“sweeper.” The sweeper allows you to vary the DC resistance relative to its
position along the resistive
strip, or relative to the outer two lugs.
Potentiometers come in two varieties, linear-taper and audio-taper. The
lineartaper pot’s taper works at a 1:1 ratio. Audio taper, has a special
logarithmic ratio.
Audio taper is used because our ears don’t hear changes in volume in a linear
fashion as you might expect. As the volume increases, a greater change in
signal or sound-pressure is required to perceive a smooth transition.
LED LED stands for Light Emitting Diode, and functionally LEDs are very
similar to regular diodes. LEDs are most often used as indicator lights in
pedals. They are polarized just like diodes and electrolytic capacitors and
must be installed in the correct orientation to work. The positive (anode)
lead of the LED will be longer and the anode side of the LED housing will be
round. The negative (cathode) lead of the LED will be shorter and the cathode
side of the LED housing will be flat. LEDs are mounted inside of a bezel,
which protects the LED and insulates the leads from shorting against the
enclosure or any internal components.
122
SOLDERING The solder joints you’ll make on the circuit boards are very small,
and too much heat can damage the
board. The idea is to make joints quickly, without scorching the holes.
1. Hold components in place for soldering by threading the leads through the
board and bending them apart on the reverse side. You will be making your
solder joints on the reverse side of the board.
2. Tin the iron by melting a small amount of solder onto the tip of the iron.
3. Insert the tip into the hole and let it heat for 4-5 seconds before
touching it with solder. This heats the contact enough for the solder to flow
nicely without damage. Feed the solder to the hole, not the iron, and you
don’t need much solder, just enough to fill the holet. Keep the iron on the
connection for a second longer; this pause gives time for all of the flux to
cook out of the joint. After the joint has cooled, trim away the excess lead
wire.
133
Here’s a few more soldering tips that might be helpful:
· Keep your soldering tip clean by wiping it often on a damp sponge.
· Also keep it tinned by occasionally melting a little solder onto it.
· Don’t blow on the hot solder or touch anything until the joint has cooled
completely. A good solder joint is shiny a sign that it was left to cool
undisturbed.
· Plan so each joint is only soldered once. Resoldered joints are messy and
more likely to fail.
2
INSTALL 1 DIODE & 2 TRANSISTORS
Insert the diode leads through the component side (the side with the component’s info silkscreened in white). In many cases, components must be inserted in a specific direction due to polarity, so follow the graphics carefully. For example, diodes are polarized, so they must be installed in the correct orientation. Solder the diode and transistors on the opposite side of the board, known as the solder side.
1N5817 rectifier diode (1)
7522
BC-108 Transistor (2)
101123
Note the stripe around one end of the diode. This marks the negative (minus)
lead. On the PCB, the printed outline of the diodes also shows this stripe.
Install each diode to match the direction shown. Place all diodes with the
wires pointing down, through the component side.
14
Next, we’re going to add some resisitors to our PCB. Like in the previous step, you’ll find an outline of each resistor and its value printed in their proper location on the PCB. Resistors are not polarized, so it doesn’t matter which lead goes in which hole. Match resistors to the values on the PCB, a few at a time, and solder in place. Clip the leads close to the board, but not touching the board so you don’t damage the solder pads.
3
INSTALL 5 RESISTORS
100K resistor (1) #7365
Brown Black Black Orange Brown
1K resistor (1) #7357
Brown Black Black Brown Brown
4.7K resistor (1) #7359
Yellow Violet Black Brown Brown
33K resistor (1) #7409
Orange Orange Black Red Brown
470 resistor (1) #7355
Yellow Violet Black Black Brown
15
4
INSTALL 3 POLARIZED CAPACITORS
The three types of capacitors shown below are polarized and have to be installed in the correct orientation. Note the stripe running the length of each cap; this identifies the negative (minus) lead. On the circuit board, the circle for this cap’s location has a round through hole on one side, and a square through hole on the other: insert the capacitors with their stripe facing the round hole side. (On polarized caps of this type, there’s a second way to identify the negative lead: it is the shorter of the two leads).
22uF 1uF
47uF
22µF capacitor (1)
7311
1µF capacitor (1)
7337
47µF capacitor (1)
7478
16
C6 C1
1
WIMA Q2 0,01 100-
C3 R2 R3
The remaining capacitor below is not polarized. However, best practice is to solder this cap in place with text facing the bottom of the PCB.
5
INSTALL 1 CAPACITOR
WIMA 0,01 100-
17
6
INSTALL 2 TRIM POTS
The internal trim pots featured on the Sun Fuzz allow the user the fine tune the overall “feel” the pedal will have when engaged. The Clean trim pot adjusts the amount of fuzz in the signal. The Bias trim pot adjusts the amount of voltage being routed to the transistors. Both controls have a significant impact on the sound.
CLEAN
503
502 BIAS
50K trim pot (1)
503
100739
5K trim pot (1)
502
100738
Carefully insert the legs of the trim pots into the PCB and solder in place on
the back of the PCB.
Use a phillips head screwdriver to adjust the high end frequency. Turn it to
the right for more high end, to the left to remove high end.
About the trim pots: When you are finished with the build, the two BC108
transistors will need to be dialed in using these internal adjustable trim
pots. One of them is labeled “clean” and the other “bias”.
18
7
INSTALL 8 LEAD WIRES
Q1
R4 R1 R10
BIAS CLEAN C2
C6 C1
D1
503 502
Q2
C3 R2 R3
StewMac’s PCB Holder (#0500) is perfect for soldering tiny parts and wires. With two free hands and the ability to rotate the board, you’ll easily find the perfect angle to work.
This kit comes with 30″ of 22 gauge lead wire. Using the correct 22AWG slot on
your wire stripper cut the wire into eight, 2.5″ sections. Strip around 3/32″
off both ends of all wires.
The first four 2.5″ sections will attach the in, out and DC jacks at the top
of the PCB and the other four 2.5″ sections will attach the breakout board to
the bottom center of the PCB.
Insert the stripped ends of the wires into the holes on the component side of
the PCB and solder them on the back.
19
8
SOLDER BREAKOUT BOARD TO
THE PCB
Now we’re going to attach the breakout board to the PCB, as well as attach the wires to the breakout board that will connect to the pots. Have a small piece of masking tape on hand.
Align the PCB and breakout board component side up. Guide the leads of the
2.5″ wires coming from the bottom of PCB through the holes in the breakout
board.
Next, cut two 4″ pieces of the remaining 22 gauge wire and strip 3/32″ off
both ends of both wires. Insert one end of each wire into the remaining holes
on the breakout board and tape the leads to the breakout board on the
component side to prevent them from slipping out of the holes.
Carefully flip the PCB and breakout board over and solder all the wires in
place on the solder side of the boards. Once the solder has cooled, remove the
tape.
20
R10
R3
IN GND SW OUT
Locate the three pots.
FUZZ (B1K)
VOLUME (A250K)
If any pot has an index pin protruding from it,
break it off with a pair
TONE (B5K)
of needle nose pliers.
This will allow the pot to mount
flush in the housing.
Before mounting the tone pot to the circuit board, place one section of the included double foam adhesive tape squares on the back of the tone pot to insulate it from the mounted electronic components.
Protect your painted housing by laying a piece of paper or light cardboard with holes in it for the pots and footswitch on the housing before temporarily attaching the components.
Remove the nuts and washers from the three pots and insert their threaded
shafts into their coordinating holes on the OUTSIDE of the pedal housing.
Reattach nuts and washers inside housing and lightly tighten. Remove the nut
and washer from the footswitch and insert threaded shaft into the footswitch
hole from INSIDE the housing. Add nut and washer to footswitch and thread only
a few threads .
21
10
SOLDER POTS TO PCB
Temporarily attaching the pots and footswitch to the pedal housing will help
to keep things steady for soldering them to the PCB.
Lay the PCB/breakout board component side up over the pots. The shaft of the
foot switch will help to support the PCB. Manuever the lugs of the pots and
the PCB until the lugs of the pots slip into their appropriate holes in the
PCB. Once all the lugs have popped through the board, solder them in place.
Remove the nuts and washers on the pots to free the PCB group of parts from
the housing. Reattach the nuts and washers to pots and switch.
22
C2 CLEAN C6
C1
D1
Q2
503
Exactly like we did in step 10, we’re going to use our housing to help with
attaching the footswitch.
Insert the threaded shaft of the footswitch into the OUTSIDE of the housing
and reattach the nut and washer in the INSIDE.
11
ATTACH THE FOOTSWITCH
TO THE BREAKOUT
BOARD
Align the holes in the breakout board with lugs on the footswitch. Rotate the PCB/pots/breakout board and footswitch until the pots rest somewhere comfortably on the outside of the housing and solder.
Making sure all the lugs are through the holes in the breakout board and breakout board is flat against the foot switch, solder the lugs to the breakout board.
Once the solder has cooled on the lugs, remove the washer and nut from the
footswitch and remove the PCB/breakout board/pots/footswitch group from the
housing. Reattach the washer and nut so they don’t get lost.
23
12
INSTALL LED INDICATOR
LIGHT
Like some of the caps and diodes, the LED is polarized and has to be installed in a specific direction. The negative lead of the diode has a flat edge and is shorter than the positive.
The LED mounting bezel consists of two main parts: A ring that the LED fits into, and a plastic plug that goes over the LED from the back side to keep it in place.
Install the mounting bezel through the front of the enclosure. From the inside, slip a lock washer and nut
case
on and tighten it up using a 3/8″ wrench. Insert the LED
into the bezel so that the two leads are parallel with the
top and bottom of the housing and the shorter lead is
closest to the outside of the enclosure. Feed the leads
through the plastic plug, press the plug down until it’s tight in the bezel. The LED will be held in place when
you solder the leads to the switches and circuit board.
For a more secure mount, you can run a bead of clear
silicone adhesive around the plastic plug.
24
Remove the nuts and
washers again from the pots and footswitch and lay the pedal housing face down. With the
13
INSTALL CIRCUIT BOARD
component side of the
PCB facing up, carefully insert the shafts
of the pots and footswitch into their holes.
Reattach the washers and nuts using a 10mm wrench
for the pots, and 14mm wrench for the switch.
503
To connect the LED, thread the longer positive lead
through the hole marked “A” and the shorter negative
lead through the hole marked “K” on the component
502
side of the PCB and solder in place. Use care to make
sure these bare leads are not touching one another or
the LED will malfunction.
Twist the pot shafts all the way counter-clockwise and install the knobs pointing at “7 o’clock” indicating their “zero” position.
25
14
INSTALL THE DC JACK
Insert the DC jack into the top of the housing making sure the longer of the
two lugs is on the left.
Using a 14mm wrench or needle nose pliers and 14mm nut, secure jack into
housing just enough to allow the jack to rotate.
Solder the left wire to the longer lug of the DC jack.
Solder the right wire to the shorter lug of the DC jack.
Once solder joints have cooled, tighten the nut with a pair of needle nose
pliers. Be careful not to tighten to tightly because you can crack the bushing
of the jack.
26
SLEEVE
TIP LUG
SLEEVE LUG
Model 12252 comes with two mono jacks. One will be your input jack and the other your output jack. Insert the jack into the left side of the housing with the tip connection facing up, as
15
INSTALL THE INPUT JACK
shown in the diagram. Add the washer and thread the nut on to the shaft enough so that the pot can rotate freely. TIP
Solder the right wire at the top of the PCB to the input jack lug that corresponds with the sleeve connection. The sleeve lug should be the one closest to the DC jack.
Solder the left 4″ wire from the breakout board to the lug of the input jack
that corresponds with the tip connection. The tip lug should be the one
closest to the outside wall of the enclosure.
Once the solder has cooled, orient the jack as shown in the diagram, make sure
none of the connections on the jack are shorting to any other components, and
tighten the nut on the jack.
27
Insert the output jack into the
16
right side of the housing with the tip facing down, as shown
SLEEVE
LTUTIiPpGlu
INSTALL THE in the diagram. Add the washer
Ti
OUTPUT JACK and thread the nut on to the
shaft enough so that the pot can
rotate freely. You may need to rotate the jack to provide
easier access to setting the solder joints.
SLEEVE LUG
Solder the left wire at the top of the board to the output
jack lug that corresponds with the sleeve. The sleeve lug
TIP
should be the one closest to the DC jack.
Solder the 4″ wire from the right side of the breakout board to the lug of the output jack that corresponds with the tip. The tip lug should be the one closest to the outside wall of the enclosure.
Once the solder has cooled, orient the jack as shown in the diagram, make sure none of the connections on the jack are shorting to any other components, and tighten the nut on the jack.
28
17
FINE TUNING TRIM POTS
Trim Pots Adjustments With the main controls AND trim pots set to the noon
position on the dial, play your instrument and adjust the internal trim pots
until you achieve a sound that is pleasing to your own ears.
Tone is a highly subjective topic, what sounds good to others may not sound
good to you. Experiment with the trim pots to find your ideal settings.
CLEAN
Clean control adjusts the intensity of the fuzz sound from
light to heavy.
503
502
BIAS
Bias control adjusts the sound of the signal from thin and brittle
to thick and heavy
29
D SF
C6 C1
C2 CLEAN
D1
Q1
Q2
503
BIAS
R4
C3
R1
502
R2
R10
R3
IN GND SW OUT
18
COMPLETED VIEW
With all parts in place, this is what your pedal should look like.
Congrats, on a job well done!
Now, simply attach the back of the pedal, pop on the knobs, plug this thing in
and bend some tone!
30
HERE’S HOW THE CONTROLS WORK
POWER Use a standard 9 volt DC power supply with a 2.1mm negative-center
barrel (not included). We always recommend pedal-specific, transformer-
isolated, wall-wart power supplies or supplies with separate isolated outputs.
Some switching supplies, as well as some linear (non-switching) pedal power
supplies can be noisy. Switching-type power supplies, daisychains, and non-
pedal specific power supplies do not filter dirty power as well and let
through unwanted noise. Do not run at higher than 9V DC voltages!
FUZZ This controls the amount of fuzz you hear in the signal.
TONE Controls the voltage going to the transistors. Which can alter the sound
greatly from thin and sputtery, to fat and very full.
VOLUME This controls the output of the pedal.
31
Built to last a lifetime.
Our promise to you is simple and uncomplicated. If any of our products ever
break, wear out, or fail to exceed your every expectation simply return it for
a replacement. Quality you can trust. For life.
TECHNICAL SUPPORT: If you have any questions before, during, or after your
build, please reach out
to our Tech Support Team by email at service@stewmac.com.
stewmac.com
©2024 StewMac. All rights reserved. · #12252 Updated January, 2024 32
References
- Everything for building and repairing stringed instruments! - StewMac
- How to Build a Pedal Kit Step-by-Step - StewMac
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