CUB 2.6 Series Fully Loaded Trailer Owner’s Manual

CUB 2.6 Series Fully Loaded Trailer

• PLEASE READ AND COMPREHEND this manual before using your 2.6 SERIES for the first time.
• INVEST THE TIME to become familiar with all the standard fittings and options on your 2.6 SERIES.
• IF IN DOUBT or feel you are doing something wrong, please call your local CUB dealer for advice.

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PACKING THE CAMPER TRAILER

WEIGHTS & LOADS
Before packing your vehicle and trailer, it is important to know and understand the following terms and load limitations imposed upon your TOW- VEHICLE by the vehicle manufacturer.

1. GROSS VEHICLE MASS (GVM): The maximum allowable weight of the vehicle when it is fully loaded. (This includes everything: the driver, passengers, accessories fitted to the vehicle such as roof racks and bull-bars, luggage, fuel, weight on the tow-ball etc.)

2. GROSS COMBINATION MASS (GCM): The maximum allowable COMBINED weight of the loaded tow-vehicle AND the loaded trailer.

3. TOWING CAPACITY: The maximum weight of a fully loaded trailer that the tow-vehicle can legally tow. NOTE: If the tow-bar fitted to the vehicle is a factory-fitted or dealerfitted item, it will inevitably match this rating. If however the tow-bar is a non-genuine after- market fitment, it would be prudent to check the plaque fitted to the tow-bar to verify what the Towing Capacity of the tow-bar in this case actually is.

4. TOW BALL MASS (TBM): The maximum downward weight that can be applied to the towball (or equivalent).
   NOTE: It is also important to verify that the TBM rating of the towbar can comfortably accommodate a ball weight of at least 12% of the trailer’s ATM.
   Similarly, know and understand the following terms and load limitations imposed upon the TRAILER by the trailer manufacturer (i.e. in this case Cub Campers):

5. TARE MASS: The weight of a trailer as it is generally delivered (i.e. with no water or gas in their respective tanks.)

6. ATM (AGGREGATE TRAILER MASS): The maximum permissible weight of a free-standing, fully loaded trailer (i.e. unhitched).

7. GTM (GROSS TRAILER MASS): The maximum permissible weight of a fully loaded trailer as applied to the ground by the main wheels only (i.e. hitched to the vehicle).

NOTE: All these loading limits must be adhered to, particularly the GCM! If the GVM and TOWING CAPACITY add up to a higher figure than the GCM, the loads on the Tow-Vehicle, Trailer or both must be reduced to comply with the GCM limit.
Failure to comply with these load limitations may risk safety, risk police penalties and may void prospective insurance claims. Ultimately, it is the responsibility of the user to ensure that the camper-trailer is used for its intended purpose and that it is never over-loaded.

OPENING THE CAMPER TRAILER

1. After unhitching from the tow vehicle and positioning the camper trailer in a generally level location, free from any overhead obstructions, set the camper trailer parallel with ground (this can be done simply by marking the front of the trailer roof against yourself and then leveling the rear of the trailer roof using the jockey wheel.

2. Release the red handle by pulling the handle towards you to position wind down leg vertically. Lock back into place. Using winder supplied, Wind down wind down each leg until they are in firm contact with the ground. Note: these legs are not designed to be used as a jack or as the means of lifting the trailer off the ground. They are designed to stabilize the trailer when stationary.

3. Release the 2 springs from the rear door/hatch. It is important that the 2 springs are released during the opening of the 2.6 series, as this will reduce any wear on the weather seal, and help retain good sealing of the hatch to the trailer body

4. Starting from the rear of the trailer body and working towards the front, open the lock down latches which will release the roof/hard floor from the main trailer body, releasing the front two (2) latches last.

5. If the camper has a rear utility swing arm, unlatch and open it away from the rear of the camper.

6. Lift the winch strap from behind the roller bracket, then commence unwinding the winch strap and continue until the white “stop” mark appears.

7. The roof/hard floor will begin to rise but may need some assistance in raising it to vertical – the white stop line on the winch strap allows for the roof/hard floor to be raised to vertical only. The winch is self-braking and will prevent the roof/hard floor from further opening. (It is important that the winch strap winds on and off from the top of the winch spool, and NOT from under or the bottom of the winch spool).

8. Return to the winch and continue to wind out the roof/hard floor section until it reaches the ground, then continue to unwind the winch ensuring the winch strap is quite loose at this point (there needs to be some slack in the strap to allow for the extension of the rear tent bow). 12 unwinds will do the job!

9. The gap between the hard floor and the trailer body should be minimal and reasonably parallel. You can now adjust the four (4) adjustable legs on the hard floor. The roof of the trailer has now become the hard floor of the opened Cub.

10. Lift the canvas over the trailer body at the side where the trailer body angles downwards at approximately 45 degrees, ensuring care is taken to raise the canvas above and over the weather seal to avoid any unnecessary damage to the weather sealing of the trailer.

11. Walk around the Cub and affix all bungee loops on the canvas tent to the corresponding knob on the Cub body.

12. Release the grey snap lock adjusters on either side of the rear tent bow and push the rear tent bow outwards firmly with both hands. Secure the adjusting screws to lock into position, then insert the two support poles into the two rear corners of the Camper.

13. Release the locking screw on the slide bracket just inside the zip door (this is the fitting that secures the rear diagonal bar to the centre upright bar). Release the adjusting screw on the doorway side of the rear tent bow to temporarily take the tension off, then raise the diagonal bar upwards until it reaches a horizontal position above the doorway

14. Tighten the locking screw on the slide bracket to lock this bar in a horizontal position above the doorway, and gently push the rear bow outwards (if it has slackened off), then retighten the tent bow adjusting screw.

Refer to separate instructions for awning/annexe set-up.

Connection to 240-volt electricity
A 15-amp extension cord is required if connecting to a 240-volt supply (e.g. at a Caravan Park). This is connected to the inlet on the driver’s side of the camper.

Connecting gas & water
Connect the gas and water from the access point on the rear of the kitchen. Open gas and water valves.

Filling the water tank(s)
To unlock the water filling cap, insert and turn key, press cap inwards, with some force and rotate anti-clockwise until cap releases and can be pulled out.

To lock the water filling cap – push cap inwards, with some force and rotate clockwise, insert and turn key.
NOTE: If cap is rotating freely without pressure, the cap is locked.

If you wish to use your tanks water for drinking and cooking purposes, use a food grade hose (not your garden hose) to fill the tank(s).

CLOSING THE CAMPER TRAILER

1. Ensure that all lights/appliances are unplugged from the power source before the camper is closed.

2. Ensure the internal bed has been lowered (in the down position) and that all windows are closed. If there are pillows on the bed, move them to the foot of the bed.

3. Close the rear door zip, leaving the front zip open to allow exit.

4. Remove the two (2) rear tent bow support poles and stow on to the bed for use when next setting up the Cub.

5. Release the locking screw on the slide bracket and lower the doorway bar down to the stopper at the bottom of the centre upright bar, then tighten the locking screw.
   IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE SLIDE BRACKET LOCKING SCREW IS TIGHTENED AFTER LOWERING THE DOORWAY BAR. YOU CAN DO THIS AFTER EXITING THE CAMPER IF IT IS EASIER.

6. Release the two adjusters on the rear tent bow. Allow the rear bow to collapse in (within approximately 15 cms of the adjusters), then re-tighten the adjusters making sure it is even on both sides.

7. Step out of the camper (lifting slide bracket and retightening if preferred to allow easy exit from camper). Close the front zip, leaving about 25cm open to allow air to escape.

8. Walk around the camper and unclip all press studs/shock cords from the trailer body and tent lifting the canvas back into the trailer body on both sides where the trailer body angles downwards at approximately 45 degrees. Ensure care is taken to raise the canvas above and over the weather seal to avoid any unnecessary damage to the weather sealing of the trailer.

9. IT IS IMPORTANT that the canvas tent is pulled out and away from the tent bow junction point before you start closing the camper. This will avoid any possibility of the canvas being caught or catching on the tent bow junction point. FAILURE TO TAKE CARE WITH HOW THE CANVAS IS FOLDED INTO THE TRAILER AT THIS POINT MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE CANVAS.

10. Commence winding the winch.

11. When the camper trailer roof/floor is “about” two thirds closed, walk around the camper, and ensure that all the canvas is pushed inside the body of the camper. It is safe to do this when the last tent bow is flat on the camper.

12. Position the winch strap behind the roller, this changes the direction of the pull of the winch strap on the hard floor/roof and allows for greater ease in closing the roof/floor onto the trailer body.

13. Continue winding, but do not fully close with the winch. Stop winding when there is a gap of approximately 25mm to 50mm, then engage the two-rear lock down latches. This will preserve the weather seal of the camper.

14. Commencing from the rear of the trailer, close the latches finishing with the front latches, ensuring that no canvas is protruding over the seal.

15. Wind the 2 stabiliser legs back up, release the red locking handle, and swing up underneath the body and release the red handle to lock into place.

16. Re-affix rear springs to the rear hatch/door to secure.

17. If the camper has a rear utility swing arm, close and latch it securely.

18. As the Cub is fitted with a self-braking winch, the winch strap should be reasonably “tight” so that the winch handle is not left to swing freely in transit.

19. The Cub is now ready to be attached to the towing vehicle.

PROBLEM SOLVING

• GAP BETWEEN THE HARD FLOOR/ROOF SECTION AND THE TRAILER BODY IS QUITE LARGE/SIDE AND CANNOT CLOSE THE GAP

Check the ground level, and if needed, adjust the floor/roof support legs to allow the floor/roof section to be lowered down further. If the support legs cannot be shortened any further, then some minor digging out of the ground where the legs meet the ground may be required.
Is the trailer set level? The trailer should be set up on reasonably even ground and should be set reasonably level.
Are the rear stabiliser legs on the camper trailer sinking into the ground (this may happen on soft or sandy surfaces)? If so, tile size pieces of ply or similar should be used to prevent the stabiliser legs sinking into the ground.

• CAN’T CLOSE THE DOOR ZIP WITHOUT USE OF FORCE (DO NOT FORCE THE ZIP AS THIS MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE ZIP WHICH IS EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR)

Look at the tent set up, is the front (draw bar end) of the tent sagging? Is there a large crease on the side windows running from the tent bow junction up to the top of the tent bow at the drawbar end? If yes to either of these questions, a full tent setting is recommended as follows:

RESETTING THE TENT

1. Ensure the camper is set reasonably even/level.
2. Affix all external press studs/shock cords on the trailer tent to the trailer body.
3. Ensure the door slide bar is in the down position.
4. Roll up the front & rear external window cover (if weather permits).
5. Release the Velcro fixing on the roll-up side wall (if your trailer has one).
6. Release the Velcro fixing on the door to the trailer floor.
7. Close the door zip or zips, if possible.
8. Release the adjusters on the front tent bow (drawbar end) and relax the tent bow fully, leave it loose.
9. Release the centre tent bow adjusters and leave the adjusters loose.
10. Release the rear tent bow adjusters and push the tent bow outwards firmly and hold out firmly and tighten the two adjusters.
11. Position the two corner support cup poles into the rear corners of the rear tent bow.
12. Raise the centre tent bow until the canvas prevents raising the tent bow any higher. This tent bow should be raised equally on both sides, and then tighten the adjusters.
13. Extend the front tent bow (drawbar end of the trailer) outwards, using sufficient force to square up the side windows. The front tent wall should now be quite taut.
14. If looking better, but still requiring some adjustment, try the previous steps again, but use a little more force on step No. 10 as this will pull more canvas from the front of the trailer to the rear.

This is only done, when necessary, not every time you open the camper. The above steps are to return the canvas to original factory settings. If you continue to have difficulty opening and closing the doorway zipper, please call your local CUB agent for further assistance.

NO GAS FLOW AT GAS APPLIANCES

1. Check that the gas bottle has gas; it is supplied empty from the factory.
2. Turn on the gas at the bottle by fully turning the wheel on.
3. Check that the isolation tap to the non-working appliance is turned on – this is a red tap on the gas line. It should be parallel with the gas line when on, and it must cross it when turned off. There is one red tap for each gas appliance.
4. With outside kitchens or BBQ, make sure the flexible gas hose from the appliance has been plugged into the gas bayonet correctly. To get gas flowing on the cooktop, the dark plastic heat adjustment knob needs to be depressed, then turned to the highest setting for the jet you want lit, then light with mechanical or electric starter, keeping knob depressed for a few seconds. When lighting for the first time, allow time for the gas to reach the appliance. It can take a minute or two.
5. If problem continues, call your local CUB dealer for further assistance.

CAMPER TAIL LIGHT ISSUES
If your tail lights do not seem to be working, make sure you check your 7 pin plug to ensure no pins are touching. If needed, separate pins.

REAR TENT BOW DOES NOT EXTEND FULLY
Check that the winch strap has been extended to allow full extension of the rear tent bow when setting up. This can be shortened or tightened after set up has been completed.
Check that the adjusting clamps have been released.
Are you using sufficient force when pushing outwards on the rear tent bow? If the winch strap has been sufficiently released, push outwards until the canvas stops you extending outward any further.

AWNING & ANNEXE SET UP INSTRUCTIONS

SUPPLIED EQUIPMENT

EXTENDED DELUXE AWNING

• 1 x Extended Deluxe Awning
• 5 x Upright Spigot Poles with wing nut
• 5 x Cup Spreader Poles
• 3 x Velcro Spreader Poles
• 7 x Large Pegs
• 7 x Ropes
• 7 x Springs

ANNEXE WALLS
If additional walls & draught skirt have been purchased, small pegs will be supplied to correspond with the total number of eyelets in these walls, for securing to ground.
Please check your hardware to ensure that you have been supplied correctly. Any claim for short supply of poles, walls or awnings will NOT be considered after the handover/delivery, as all poles, walls and awnings must be checked and set up during handover/delivery of your new CUB, to ensure a basic knowledge of set up procedures is gained.
DO ensure all canvas is dry when stored for any extended period and reference to long term canvas care instructions (supplied) is advised.

SETTING UP YOUR AWNING AND ANNEXE

Deluxe Awning Set-Up

1. Check that all required hardware is on hand, including a suitable hammer or mallet (not supplied) for driving the pegs into the ground.

2. Position large pegs (2 per pole) suitable for anchoring the Upright Spigot Poles.(TIP: Take 3 good size paces out from the Velcro patches on the side of the camper tent and position a large peg with spring and rope attached. Take a diagonal step back towards the camper, but away from the awning and this should give an approximate 90° angle for the two end ropes when attached to the upright spigot pole. In most cases, just one peg, rope and spring is sufficient on the centre upright pole, and the spare peg, rope and spring could be used elsewhere if required.)

3. Taking an Upright Spigot pole, remove the wing nut from the spigot, place the spigot through the eyelet of the awning and place the wing nut back onto the spigot. This will secure the awning to the Upright Spigot pole. Then place the ropes (with a loop tied into one end) over the spigot and wing nut and apply some tension to the rope. The Upright Spigot pole will now be quite stable. Move onto the next Upright Spigot pole and continue until all are positioned.

4. Set up the 2 additional Upright Spigot poles that extend the Extended Deluxe awning further forward of the trailer body. TIP: Set the Extended Deluxe awning in line with the 3 Velcro pole settings first, and after setting up this area of the awning, the extended section will be easier to set up.

5. Raise the centre (or high point) Upright Spigot pole but keep it within a manageable height to attach further poles.

6. Affix the Velcro Spreader Poles to the Velcro patch on the trailer tent by aligning it with the Velcro where you can feel the tent bar behind the canvas. Snap the cup
   end onto the Upright Spigot pole (above the collar).
   Open the snap lock adjuster and spread the pole outwards tightly and close the snap lock adjuster to prevent the spreader from closing inwards. Secure the awning to the Velcro Spreader Poles with the Velcro ties sewn on to the inner side of the awning.

7. Snap the Cup Spreader Poles (Cup at both ends) on to the Velcro Spreader Poles forward of the collar, loosen the snap lock adjuster and extend outwards firm firmly and then close the snap lock adjuster to prevent the Cup Spreader Poles from closing inwards and finally secure the Cup Spreader Poles to the awning with the Velcro ties sewn on to the inner side of the awning.

8. Starting with the centre (high point of awning pitch roof) Upright Spigot pole, loosen the snap lock adjuster, and raise the pole to suitable height. Close the snap lock adjuster to secure the Upright Spigot pole, then follow with the other Upright Spigot poles. Now tighten the securing ropes to hold the awning frame in position.
   NOTE: Ensure the front (outer edge) of the awning is NOT higher than the awning zip where affixed to the trailer tent section and this will allow water run-off to be away from the zippered join.

9. Fitting of removable walls is as easy as zipping one side of the front and rear walls to the trailer tent section, and Velcro fixing the top edge of the wall to the Velcro edge of the Extended Deluxe awning. Use the small pegs provided to fix the bottom edge of the wall to the ground, a hammer/mallet will be required to drive the small pegs into the ground through the eyelets at the base of the wall.
   NOTE: If the ground is reasonably level, the hang or fall of the wall will be a good indicator as to whether the height of the awning from the ground is correct and if needed, the height of the awning from the ground can be adjusted simply by loosening off the ropes and adjusting the Upright Spigot pole as required.

10. Affixing the front Extended Deluxe awning wall to the trailer body will require press studding the Velcro strip that is supplied with all CUBs. This minimises the gap between walls and the hard trailer body, the wall will Velcro to this strip. After first use, this removable Velcro strip can be left attached to the front wall for future use and easy finding when needed.

11. If you have been supplied with a Draught Skirt, this will press stud on to the bottom section of the trailer body and both ends of the draught skirt will Velcro fix to the front and rear walls (if included) to maximize the sealing effectiveness against weather/insects. You may notice holes in the draught skirt, these are to allow the draught skirt to fit over press studs on the trailer body that are for the trailer tent press stud fixing.

12. Note, if setting up camper for a quick overnight stop, and you don’t want to set up the awning, you can secure the awning eyelets to the corresponding eyelets on the driver’s side of the tent to stop the awning moving/blowing around.

Ezy Awning/Extended Ezy Awning Setup
The Ezy Awnings are set up simply by attaching the Velcro on the awning to the Velcro that is located on the tent, underneath the flap above the doorway, then securing with poles and ropes.

To Pull Down Awnings
Pull down or removal of the Add-A-Room or awning walls is simply a reverse of the set-up, i.e., what you did last, you now do first. Always remember though, the awning (roof section), can remain affixed to the trailer tent, and never require removal. The CUB camper can still be closed fully with the awning still attached. Leaving the awning attached will eliminate the hardest part of any Add-A-Room/Awning set up and is recommended for ease of camper use.
When packing away walls for storage, ensure they are stowed dry to avoid possible water damage (Refer to Canvas Care instructions)

CANVAS CARE

SETTING AND PROOFING INSTRUCTIONS
PRE-CONDITION YOUR NEW CANVAS TENT
Before going on holiday, you should pre-condition your new canvas tent section by following this simple procedure.

1. Fully set up your camper – ensure all poles, clips etc are in place and all zippers fully closed.
2. Thoroughly wet canvas using a hose on medium pressure from about 1.5m. Canvas should be wet evenly over entire surface as if it had been raining for at least 10 minutes.
3. It is not unusual for canvas to leak when it is first wet down, usually at the seams.
4. Allow to dry completely. Leave erected for 24 hours is possible.
5. Hose down again. Do this procedure 10 to 12 times, or until canvas stitching holes have shrunk.
6. Check for any water drips and treat leaks, if any, with silicone solution as per manufacturer’s instructions. (Seam Sealer from any camping store).

To obtain the maximum life from outdoor products incorporating Wax Converters Canvas, the following points should be noted:

1. Keep the fabric clean by brushing regularly, both inside and outside with a soft brush and by hosing occasionally with clean cold water aiming at the lower edge of fabric working upwards.
2. Do not apply soaps, detergents, cleaning fluids or insecticides.
3. Do not allow aerosol spray to come in contact with canvas
4. Keep petrol, oil, solvents, kerosene, and other similar fluids away from the fabric.
5. Do not allow bird droppings, earth, sand, or vegetable matter to remain in contact with the fabric.
6. Ensure that the canvas is thoroughly dry before stowing it away.
7. Should mildew spots appear, brush them off before they become attached.
8. Persistent moulds or mildew growth should be treated with White King solution, strictly in accordance with the Instructions outlined below.
9. Canvas which has been cleaned extensively may require reproofing with REPROOF.

Reproof™ – Reproofing Compound
Reproof™ reproofing compound is the recommended product to restore the waterproofing and mildew resistant properties of weathered Dynaproofed™ canvas. Reproof™ is a formulation modelled on the high performance Dynaproofed™ formulation and is available in 2 Litre, 4 Litre, 20 Litre and 200 Litre containers.

USE OF BLEACH AS MILDEW REMOVER
Bleach is effective in removing mildew growth on canvas and killing mildew spores.
Safety: Read the safety directions on the bleach label and follow these directions carefully. Wear rubber gloves and avoid contact with skin and eyes.

Preparation
Read all directions thoroughly before commencing.

• As some tenting fabrics are not colourfast, an inconspicuous section of the tent should be tested with the solution before proceeding. Wax Converters tenting fabrics are colourfast to this treatment.
• The treatment is best performed outdoors, and best results together with easier application are achieved when the canvas is in a taut position – tents, annexes, etc should be fully erected: where this is not possible, spread on a clean surface.
• Remove dust and dirt by lightly brushing. Heavy soiling should be washed off with clear, warm water – do not use soap, detergents, or other cleaning agents.

Application

• White King should be diluted with water, 1 part of White King to 4 parts of water. It should not be mixed with other chemicals or cleaners.
• Apply this solution evenly to the outside at a rate that will penetrate the fabric, working the solution into the canvas with a stiff brush or broom.
• Hose the solution off thoroughly after 15 minutes, continuing to hose down until run off is clear.
• If mildew is not completely removed, allow canvas to dry, and then repeat the application.
• Do not allow the solution to remain on the canvas for more the 20 minutes without thoroughly rinsing or damage may occur.

Working Qualities

• Properly applied. White King solution will remove mildew and kill spores.
• Care must be taken that the solution does not come in contact with anything other than the canvas being treated. Any splashes or spills should be thoroughly washed off immediately with water.
• The solution will yellow lawns, however this will grow out.
• White King solution will remove mildew, but not obstinate stains. It is designed as a pre-treatment to Reproof Proofing Compound which should not be applied until fabric is completely dry.

Clean Up

• Wash applications with clean water

Coverage

• 5 Litres of White King solution will treat approximately 10 square metres of canvas, once.

BOAT LOADER INSTRUCTIONS

1. Undo loader catches on passenger side of trailer.

2. Remove 2 roof rack legs on driver’s side to allow loader to clear.

3. Attach chain in top plate hole.

4. Standing at rear of trailer, lift the boat and loader to the side of the camper and over.

5. Assist the boat to the full drop position.

6. The size and weight of boat will determine the final resting position of the suspended boat and loader.

7. At this time, the chain should be connected to the second hole on plate.
   If the boat is sitting on the ground, simply connect the chain. If the boat is off the ground and two people are available, one person should push down on the outside rail of the boat, towards the ground. If one person only and the boat is off the ground, it can be lowered further by sitting on the edge of the boat nearest the camper while the chain is connected. THE CHAIN MUST BE CONNECTED TO UNLOAD THE BOAT

8. The boat can now be removed from the loader. The chain must stay in place to keep the loader in the “down” position.

9. To “re-pack” the boat, simply slide under the loader, attach strap to attachment points and tighten.

10. Lift the loader up and over, back onto the roof and attach the catches.

NOTE:
For ease of 1 person operation, it is recommended that 1 gas strut from each arm be removed when no boat is fitted to boat loader.
The ideal operating load for the Cub boat loader is for a boat weighing between 60kg and 75 kgs, allowing the boat loader to operate at its optimum.

ZIPPER CARE

The zippers are an important part of your camper and with a little care will give you many years of service. Remember, it is very costly to replace a zipper on the main tent body of your camper. It is not just the cost of the zipper, but the many hours required to take the tent off the body of your camper to allow a new zipper to be sewn in and put back on again. This runs to several hundred dollars!
A zipper is designed to work easily. If you have to force it, something is wrong.
If the door zip is getting tighter to open/close, STOP….and see what is causing it. The most likely cause is that the tent setting is out of adjustment and needs to be re-set. This is a normal part of the campers’ operation from time to time, depending on the weather, amount of use etc. and takes just a couple of minutes to rectify. Other indicators of this problem are creases across the windows or walls. See the section on “re-setting the tent”.
Another cause is dirt getting into the teeth or slider of the zipper. A clean zipper is a happy zipper! Travelling in the outback usually involves a lot of dust and dirt. Do keep the zippers as clean as possible to avoid jamming the slider as this can damage the slider. A damaged slider is usually the cause of teeth not closing properly. The ‘throat’ of the slider opens up under pressure. This can be closed again by very carefully using a pair of long nose pliers to coax it closed a step at a time.
Lubricants for the zippers are often recommended but many lubricants (like wax) attract and retain dust and dirt. Some of the silicone-based products are better. If you can, just cleaning the zipper from time to time with soapy water and an old toothbrush will do the trick.

SERVICING YOUR CUB CAMPER
Important – Please Note: It is essential that wheel nuts be re-torqued after an initial run-in period. The wheel nut tension must be re-checked after the first 100 km of operation and every 100kms for the first 400kms and thereafter check wheel nuts before each trip. The recommended torque is 145Nm.
Regular servicing of your camper trailer should be undertaken at no less than 12- month intervals, but it is highly recommended that you have your camper serviced after any extended journey, prior to any further extended travelling. Regular servicing should include checking tyres for wear and correct pressure, bearings (inspect, re-pack or replace), suspension, brakes (if fitted), tail lights, safety chain/s, tow hitch, all other fixings.
Details regarding Alko Periodic Maintenance Schedule can be found in the back of the “Electric Braked Axles” booklet, but after the initial 300km to 1000km service they are recommended every 10,000 kms or annually.
Servicing should only be undertaken by suitably qualified technicians.
If any guidance is required, please contact your local Cub Campers dealer.
WARNING: IF THERE IS EVER A NEED TO REPLACE THE GAS STRUTS ON YOUR CAMPER, THIS SHOULD ONLY BE UNDERTAKEN BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN.

ALLOY & STEEL WHEEL CARE

A well-maintained pair of wheels will be vital to making your camper trailer look its best.

There are a number of basics to keep in mind, including: –

• Wash your wheels regularly to prevent build-up of dirt and brake dust. Use warm soapy water and if needed, tar and bug remover.
• Never use abrasives such as steel wool or polishing compounds.
• Never use hot steam cleaning, as this can also damage the finish on your wheels.
• Never clean your wheels when they are still hot from driving as the water will evaporate too quickly leaving soap streaking.
• Wash your wheels one at a time to ensure you do a thorough, detailed job. Use a different sponge on your wheels to the one you use on your camper bodywork.

If you follow the tips above, you will maintain the appearance of your camper’s wheels as well as assist them in lasting longer. Since wheels often represent a large financial outlay, it is worth spending a little extra time on cleaning them. Always treat them with respect, and your camper will continue to look great for a long time, regardless of whether the wheels are steel or alloy.

LOWERING THE WIND DOWN SPARE WHEEL

1. Locate the spare wheel release handle, located on the side of the pantry (if fitted), or in the fridge box attached to the front wall.
2. Insert the “t” section end of the handle through the chain link located behind the mud flap, and slide to engage in receiver, located above the centre of the spare wheel.
3. Turn handle anti-clockwise to lower the spare wheel down on it’s chain.

CUB RECOMMENDED JACKING POINTS

These are the details of the Cub recommended jacking points.
Please ensure when using a jack that the area is safe, nobody is under the trailer, and that the other wheel is securely chocked.

1. For Off Road models with independent suspension – Jack to be positioned on angle at rear of suspension (see below photos)
2. For Off Road models with beam axle/leaf spring suspension (see photo across). Jack to be positioned on axle
3. For on road slipper spring models (prior to 2018), jack to be positioned in fixed jacking point (see below photos)

© CUB CAMPERS • 2.6 OWNER’S MANUAL V5 • 04/06/2024

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