QUICK MILL ALEXIA EVO Automatic Espresso Machine Instruction Manual
- June 6, 2024
- QUICK MILL
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- First Time Set Up
- First Time Set Up, Continued
- Before Each Use
- Normal Operation
- Normal Operation, Continued
- Brewing Espresso
- PID Controller
- PID Controller Advanced Settings
- Steaming Milk – Basics
- Steaming Milk – Basics
- Steaming Milk – Technique
- Steaming Milk – Technique
- Hot Water Wand Operation
- Maintenance
- Troubleshooting
- Warranty
- We Are Here To Help
- References
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Alexia Espresso Machine
Diagrams
1. Power Indicator Light | 12. Steam/Hot Water Knob |
---|---|
2. 3 Position Power Switch | 13. Pump(brew) Pressure Gauge |
3. Heating Indicator Light | 14. E61 Group Head |
4. Hinged Reservoir Door | 15. Brew Lever |
5. PID | 16. Drip Tray Cover |
6. Cup Warming Tray | 17. Drip Tray |
7. Pump Switch | 18. Single Portafilter |
8. Steam Mode Switch | 19. Double Portafilter |
9. Steam Mode Indicator Light | 20. Cleaning Brush |
10. Brew Switch | 21. Backflush Disc |
11. Steam/Hot Water Wand | 22. Coffee Tamper/Scoop |
Introduction
First of all, thank you for your business! You are going to love your new
Alexia espresso machine. It combines classic beauty, value, and great
performance for making the best
espressos, cappuccinos, and lattes you’ve ever tasted! These instructions
include tips that will help bring out the Barista that’s hidden within! Enjoy
your new machine!
First Time Set Up
-
Before using your machine, test your water for hardness using the provided test strips. Fill a glass with cold tap water; dip the tip of the test strip into the water for one
second, then pull the strip out of the water and hold it horizontally for fifteen seconds. After fifteen seconds, compare the color of the strip to the chart on the side of the
package to determine how many grains of hardness is in your tap water. Three grains/50 ppm or less of hardness is acceptable to be used in the machine. -
Note : Should your water’s hardness level exceed three grains/50 ppm, then it is strongly recommended that an in tank softener be used or a different source of water
that has been tested for hardness. Some bottled water can be extremely hard and should always be tested before using. Using a Brita or PUR style pitcher or faucet
filter does NOT remove any hardness from the water and should only be used in the machine if your water source is under 3 grains of hardness. Using hard water in the
machine will affect its performance and may cause damage to the machine which is not covered under warranty. -
Open the hinged reservoir door on the top of the machine and remove the water reservoir. Rinse the water reservoir out and fill with cold softened water and then
install it back into the machine being careful not to spill any water inside the machine.
First Time Set Up, Continued
-
Before plugging the machine in, verify the steam knob is closed and the brew lever is in the down position. Also make sure the power switch is in the center off “
**O**
” position and the drip tray is in place. -
Plug the machine into the outlet and then turn the power switch to the fill “I” position.
-
Raise the brew lever for at least 30 seconds until water comes out of the group head and then lower the brew lever.
-
After filling the boiler insert the portafilter into the group head so it heats up with the machine.
-
Turn the power switch to the “
**II**
” position which will activate the heater. -
The heating indicator light will illuminate and the machine will start heating up. You will hear some gurgling noises as it heats up which is normal.
-
The machine should reach temperature in approximately 15 minutes, but to make delicious espresso with thick rich crema it is necessary to allow the machine to be
heated for 30-45 minutes with the portafilter kept in the grouphead. -
The electrical outlet must be a 3 prong 120V grounded outlet. No adaptors or extension cords should be used. A timer may be used to turn the machine on and off, but it must be a 3 prong grounded timer rated for 15 amps. A GFCI outlet is recommended but is not necessary.
-
The fill position on the power switch only needs to be used on the first time setup or if the boiler has been emptied. The fill switch position allows the boiler to fill without the heater being activated to protect it during the fill process. Once the boiler has been filled the machine can be turned on normally to the on “II” position.
Before Each Use
- Verify the steam knob is closed and your brew lever is pointing straight down.
- Fill the reservoir with cold softened water.
- Place whichever portafilter you intend to use into the group head and then turn the power switch to the on “II” position.
- Let the machine warm-up for 30-45 minutes for optimal performance.
Normal Operation
Gauge
- The gauge is for your pump (brew) pressure. When sitting idle the gauge is reading trapped pressure and may vary. To get an accurate pump pressure reading to install the backflush disc in the portafilter and lock it into the grouphead and raise the brew lever. After a few seconds, the pressure should rise to about 9-10 bar. When you make espresso the pressure will be slightly less which is normal. This can be helpful in setting your grind. If your pressure is 9-10 bar with the backflush disc, but when you make espresso it is less than 8 bar then you need to go finer with your grind which will create more resistance to raise the pressure. Should you need to adjust the pump pressure please refer to the maintenance section of the owner’s manual. Lights
- On the front of the machine, there are 3 indicator lights. The green power light on the left will illuminate when the machine is in either the “I” FILL mode or “II” ON mode.
- In the center of the machine is the red heating light. The light will illuminate every time the heater comes on and will cycle on and off to maintain temperature.
- On the right side of the machine is the red steam mode indicator light. This light will stay illuminated whenever the steam mode switch is activated.
Switches
-
There are 3 switches on the front of the machine. On the left is a 3 position power switch. The “I” position is for filling the boiler. This enables the pump to work, but
keeps the heater off to protect it during filling. This position is only for the first time set up or if the boiler has been drained. The “O” position is off and the “II” position is the “ON” mode for normal operation. -
The center toggle switch is to activate the pump if you want to use the steam wand to get hot water for tea or Americanos. NOT TO BE USED IN STEAM MODE.
-
The switch on the right is to activate the steam mode. This allows the machine to heat to a higher temperature to generate steam for steaming milk. When in steam mode the water in the boiler will expand so it may be necessary to open and close the steam knob a few times to get rid of the excess water before steaming milk.
Normal Operation, Continued
Pump
- The machine is equipped with a 52W vibratory pump. Vibratory pumps can be loud by nature and their tone may change during the course of a shot which is normal.
- The pump (brew) pressure is regulated by the expansion valve. To learn how to set the pump pressure please refer to the maintenance section of the owner’s manual.
- The pump is equipped with a klixon thermal fuse. Should the pump run for an extended period of time the klaxon will kill power to the pump until it has cooled off.
Water Reservoir
-
The water reservoir can be accessed by opening the hinged reservoir door on the top of the machine. It is recommended that the reservoir be removed prior to filling to
prevent the spilling of water inside the machine which can cause damage to sensitive electrical components. Should water accidentally get spilled inside the machine then
immediately turn the power switch to the off position and unplug the machine from the electrical outlet? Do not plug the machine back in until it has had at least 1 full day to dry out. If it does not operate after that time then unplug the machine and refer to the troubleshooting section of the owner’s manual. -
The reservoir must be installed properly for the machine to function.
-
The reservoir should be cleaned at least once a week with mild dish detergent and rinsed thoroughly before use. DO NOT PUT IN DISHWASHER!!!
Water Reservoir continued
- Depending on your water quality it may be necessary to periodically sanitize the reservoir or if you are using hard water and have a mineral build up inside. White vinegar can be used to sanitize and will also remove the mineral deposits that can accumulate. Fill the reservoir with white vinegar and then let it sit for an hour and then rinse and clean the reservoir thoroughly. If the reservoir still has a vinegar taste or odor you can mix some baking soda and water in the reservoir to remove the taste and odor and then clean it normally.
Brewing Espresso
First, let me begin by explaining the three main variables of preparing great espresso.
- Quantity of ground coffee
- Tamping
- The grind
Quantity of ground coffee
– Loosely fill the basket slightly mounding over the top. Then lightly run
your finger arched across the basket from left to right, right to left, front
to back, and then lay your finger flat on the basket and go from back to front
to remove any excess coffee. This technique helps fill any voids in the basket
to help achieve an even extraction.
Tamping – After filling the basket with coffee then use your tamper to apply
30lbs of pressure evenly on the coffee bed. Then without applying any pressure
lightly twist the
tamper on the bed of coffee to “polish” the loose grounds on top. Then lock
the portafilter firmly into the group head and then raise the brew lever to
start the extraction. When it has reached the desired level, lower the brew
lever to stop the shot. It is very important to tamp consistently with the
same pressure each time or your shot quality and timing will vary.
Brewing Espresso
The grind – Adjust your grind so that when you activate the pump, the flow of
coffee coming out of the portafilter spout looks like the tapered tail of a
mouse. It should take
approximately 25 seconds for a 2 oz. double shot. If it is coming out quicker
then the grind needs to be adjusted finer, if it is coming out slower or not
at all then the grind should be adjusted coarser. The grind particle size
should look in between powder and salt. Not as fine as powder, but not as
coarse as salt. Getting the right grind is crucial to making delicious
espresso with a thick rich crema.
Consistency – The quantity of ground coffee and tamping pressure should always
be the same. Using more or less coffee or tamping lighter or harder will
greatly affect the outcome and timing of the shot. If the shots are not coming
out properly then the only variable that should be changed is the grind.
Cleaning Tip: Get into the habit of disposing of the spent grounds immediately
after brewing espresso. After disposing of the grounds, return the portafilter
to the group head
and raise the brew lever for a few seconds to rinse away excess oils and loose
grounds. By regularly following this procedure, you will greatly reduce the
tar-like buildup on the shower screen that occurs if you allow coffee oils to
dry and bake on the hot group. A cleaning brush has also been included to
clean the group screen and gasket.
PID Controller
-
The PID controller uses the latest technology to provide a more stable and accurate brewing temperature to bring out the best taste characteristics of the coffee you are
using. It also gives you the option to easily change the brew temperature to match different coffee blends and experiment with the different tastes that are brought out at various temperatures. -
The PID controller has been configured for optimum performance and should not require any adjustment other than the temperature. The default temperature has been set to 200, but can be easily changed to match the coffee blend you are using
-
The temperature shown on the display may vary from the set temperature while heating or pulling a shot and is normal. As long as the machine has had adequate time to warm up then the temperature hitting the coffee will be consistent with the set temperature despite the variance shown on the display.
Changing Brew Temperature
- To change the brew temperature with the machine on, press and release the down arrow key. When the display reads PrG, press and releases the up arrow key to display the set temperature. Use the arrow keys to change to the desired temperature. After a few seconds, the display will revert back to normal operation.
- The recommended brew range is between 195°- 205° Fahrenheit or 90°- 96° Celsius.
- The hotter the temperature the more it will bring out the bittersweet chocolate tones. Going too hot may make the shots taste very bitter.
- The colder the temperature the more it will bring out the fruity tones. Going too cold may make the shots taste sour. Feel free to experiment with different temperatures to bring out different tastes in the coffee you are using.
PID Controller Advanced Settings
-
These instructions will allow the user to change the temperature from Fahrenheit to Celsius as well as other advanced settings. It is not recommended to change the
advanced settings unless the user has a thorough understanding of how a PID controller operates. -
To change the advanced settings, with the machine turned off hold down both arrow keys and then turn the main power switch on. When F.03 appears on the display then release the arrow keys.
-
Press the up arrow key to select and change the existing setting.
-
After changing a setting you must wait a few seconds for the display to revert back and then you can press the down arrow key to cycle to the next setting.
-
To save the new settings turn the machine off and then back on again.
-
The PID calculation algorithm involves three separate constant parameters, the proportional, integral, and derivative values. These values can be interpreted in terms of time: P depends on the present error, I on the accumulation of past errors, and D is a prediction of future errors based on the current rate of change. These 3 settings work together to determine when and how to apply power to the heating element.
-
The PID controller allows for a more precise temperature control than a traditional thermostat or pressure stat controlled system. It also enables you to quickly and
easily change the brew temperature to match your personal tastes. -
The offset is the difference between the temperature drop from when the water leaves the coffee boiler and then hits the coffee. This setting has been calibrated
using a Scace device and should not be changed. -
To learn more about PID controllers please visit the link below. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PIDcontroller
ADVANCED SETTINGS | DISPLAY | DEFAULT SETTINGS |
---|---|---|
Fahrenheit Or Celsius Mode |
F.03
| F| C
Proportional Value| P| 1.5| 3
Integral Value| I| 0| .05
Derivative Value| D| 1.5| 2
Offset (temperature between boiler and group)| F.04| 18|
12
Shot Timer – The PID has an intergraded timer for your short duration.
When the timer is activated the counter begins to increase and is displayed on
the PID.
The timer is activated when the lever is lifted to the brew position and the
pump is on. When the lever is returned to the start position the timer ends
the counting cycle and the finish time duration is displayed on the PID for 5
seconds.
Steaming Milk – Basics
First, let’s talk about some of the things you need to learn in order to
become ‘barista-like’ in your techniques.
Milk – Whole milk works best to steam, both in technique and in flavor!
Lower fat milk contains mostly water which will not foam well and will be
almost tasteless when steamed. After all your hard work you will be left with
a less than desirable tasting beverage.
Temperature – Your whole milk needs to be as cold as possible to ensure
the creamiest, sweetest, and best-tasting micro-foam. Once the milk has
reached a temperature between 150-160 degrees, you must stop the process. The
longer amount of time you have with the cold milk gives you that extra time to
continue making the milk creamy and sweet tasting. Milk heated above 160
degrees will be burnt and taste terrible. Frothing Pitcher – Keeping your
pitcher in the freezer is another tip that helps keep the milk
its’ coldest. The size of your pitcher is relative to the size and number of
drinks you will be preparing at the time.
Steaming Milk – Basics
Amount of Milk – Too little milk in your frothing pitcher will cause splashing
when you turn on the steam arm; too much milk will cause overflow and make a
huge mess. The pitcher must be filled between 1/3 to 1/2 full to have the
maximum capacity for properly steaming milk. If your pitcher has a spout, fill
it to half an inch below where the spout starts.
Stretching the milk – Refers to the initial heating of the milk and the
forceful introduction of air. The stretching continues until the milk reaches
an approximate temperature of 100 degrees or “body temperature”
Texturizing the milk – Refers to the next phase of frothing whereby the steam
wand is submerged in the milk and the pressure continues to roll the milk.
This process breaks down the large air bubbles into tiny air bubbles which
then creates the smooth and creamy texture that is most desirable.
Steaming Milk – Technique
- As you face your espresso machine, point the steam arm over your drip tray and open up the steam valve in order to purge out any unwanted water that may have collected inside the wand due to condensation – you do not want that added to your delicious beverage!
- Next, position the steam arm so it is facing directly towards you and slightly angle it 45 degrees from the base. Holding your half-filled steam pitcher with the handle facing you, submerge the tip of the steam wand approximately an inch below the surface of the cold milk. Your pitcher bottom should be parallel with the countertop. The steam arm should gently rest in the spout of the steam pitcher. Now slightly tilt the pitcher left, keeping the arm away from the side of the pitcher. Open the steam valve completely and position the pitcher so the tip is just below the surface of the milk. This action creates the ‘stretching’ of the milk – in other words, adding air to the milk. When done properly, the sound you hear at this point resembles ‘sucking’. You continue this until the milk reaches an approximate temperature of 100 degrees or “body temperature”.
- After your milk has reached this ‘body temperature’, submerge the tip of the steam arm approximately one inch below the surface of the milk to get the milk spinning. This process continues to roll the milk over itself again and again – breaking the large air bubbles into tiny air bubbles – resulting in a new creamy and sweeter texture of the milk. When your milk has reached approximately 155 degrees or the bottom of the pitcher becomes too hot to hold then turn the steam valve off.
Steaming Milk – Technique
- Using a steaming thermometer is helpful when you are learning to steam milk. As you gain more experience and become more comfortable with the process you will be able to steam milk without the help of a thermometer. If you notice in the procedure above we mention temperatures and we also mention “body temperature” and the pitcher being “too hot to hold” We mention this because body temperature is 98.6 which is real close to 100 degrees and when the pitcher becomes too hot to hold the milk will be around 150 degrees. This makes it very easy to steam milk without a thermometer. You will “stretch” the milk until the
pitcher becomes body temperature and then you start the “texturizing” of the
milk until the pitcher becomes too hot to hold on the bottom and then you’re
all done.
Important: When you are done steaming milk the steam mode switch should be
turned off and then raise the brew lever until you have water coming out of
the group head to refill the boiler. This is important to protect the heating
element from getting exposed from a low water level in the boiler.
Helpful Tips and Information
-
When turning the steam valve off, always keep the tip under the surface of the milk for approximately 3 seconds. If you pull it out too soon, you will destroy the nice velvety micro-foam.
-
After removing the steam wand from the milk, position it over the drip tray and then open the steam valve for 1-2 seconds to clean out any trapped milk inside the tip and
then wipe it down with a damp cloth immediately or the milk will dry out on the steam wand and will be difficult to clean. -
While texturizing the milk, if you lower the tip too far into the milk you create turbulence rather than rolling. Turbulence will not make micro-foam.
-
If there are a few bubbles in the milk after you have finished, wait 5-10 seconds to allow all the remaining bubbles to surface, then simply tap the edge of the pitcher on the counter and swirl the milk slightly and they will disappear.
-
Be sure to keep your steamed milk moving/swirling until you are ready to pour since milk has a natural tendency to separate.
Hot Water Wand Operation
- To use the steam wand for hot water for tea or Americano’s the machine must be in coffee mode.
- Position the container under the steam wand and open the steam knob and then activate the pump switch. When the water has reached the desired level then turn off
the pump switch and close the steam knob.
Warning: The water from the steam wand comes out under pressure, using too shallow of a container can cause the hot water to splash out and burn the user so extreme caution is advised.
Maintenance
Backflushing is a vital maintenance procedure you must follow to help keep
your machine running flawlessly for years to come. There are two types of
backflushing; one with plain water, and the other with an espresso machine
cleaner. Plain water backflushing should be done at least once a week,
however, if you are so inclined, feel free to backflush with plain water as
often as you like. It won’t harm the machine and keeps the shower screen
clean.
To backflush, you use the portafilter’s backflush disc. To remove your single
or double portafilter basket, use the blank portafilter insert. Turn it upside
down and use its edge to
pry the basket out of one of your portafilters. (If you always make double
espressos, you may choose to keep the blank portafilter insert in your other
portafilter so you always have one ready.) Next, place the blank insert into
the portafilter and slap it hard with the palm of your hand to secure it into
the portafilter.
To perform a plain water backflush, place the portafilter into the group head.
Then raise the brew lever all the way up for 15 seconds, and then lower it.
Water will forcefully discharge out of the bottom of the group into the drip
tray; this is normal. Repeat three to five times.
Backflushing with espresso machine cleaner is the same procedure as above
with a few minor differences. The first difference is backflushing with
espresso machine cleaner only needs to be done approximately once a month or
every 35-50 espressos. I don’t recommend backflushing with a cleaner more
often than once every three weeks since overuse will remove oils that
lubricate the brew lever and valves.
To begin, place 1/4 of a teaspoon of espresso machine cleaner into the
backflush disc in the portafilter and then lock the portafilter into the
grouphead. Now follow the same procedure as above until the cleaner is
dissolved and the water runs clear (about 5-10 flushes). Remove the
portafilter from the group and rinse thoroughly. Then take a damp
cloth and wipe the underside of the group. After you have finished this
procedure, I recommend you pull a shot of espresso and dispose of it to cure
the group. You’re finished
and ready for another month of espresso.
Maintenance – Continued
Setting Pump (Brew) Pressure
- To set the pump pressure, install the backflush disc into your portafilter and then lock it into the group head.
- Remove the top cup warming tray to expose the expansion valve adjustment screw shown on the picture to the right.
- Raise the brew lever and then wait a few seconds for the pressure to rise. After the pressure has risen, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the expansion valve adjustment screw. Turning clockwise will increase the pressure, counterclockwise to decrease the pressure.
- The recommended setting with the backflush disc is 9.5 – 10bar. When you make espresso the pressure will be slightly less. If the machine puts out 9.5 – 10 bar of pressure with the backflush disc, but then when you make coffee the pressure is less than 8 bar then the machine is fine, it’s the grind that needs to be adjusted finer.
Setting Pump Pressure On Older Models
- The older machines have a different style expansion valve which requires removing the outer shell. The old-style expansion valve will be located on the bottom of the boiler and may be positioned facing up or down as shown to the right. The adjustment nut is the one that is attached to the soft silicone hose and is shown in the picture to the lower left.
- To set the pump pressure turn the adjustment nut shown in the picture to the left.
- Turning clockwise will increase the pressure, counterclockwise to decrease.
- Be sure the attached silicone line does not get twisted or this can cause the pressure to rise.
Group Gasket And Shower Screen Replacement
-
The group gasket is a black rubber gasket that makes the seal between the portafilter and the group head. We recommend replacing the gasket on a yearly basis which will
make the replacement procedure much easier. The Alexia uses an E61 8.5mm gasket. They can be purchased from our website at the link below.
https://www.chriscoffee.com/Group_Gaskets_p/groupgasketg.htm -
Replacing the group gasket requires the removal of the shower screen as well so we also recommend replacing the shower screen at the same time. The E61 shower screen
can be purchased from our website at the link below. https://www.chriscoffee.com/Group_Shower_Screens_p/groupshowerg.htm -
If water is leaking around the portafilter while brewing then the group gasket should be replaced.
-
Before replacing the group gasket and shower screen the machine should be turned off and cooled down so that the grouphead is cool to the touch. Group Gasket and Screen Removal
-
There are two ways to remove the group gasket and shower screen depending on how old they are. If you replace the group gasket yearly then the first method shown is
recommended. If the gasket is older and dried out then the second method shown will be necessary. -
Method 1
In the picture to the right shows an indent that goes around the perimeter of the screen. Insert either a flat blade screwdriver or a spoon into the indent and then carefully pry the gasket and screen down. You may have to do this on a few spots to remove them. -
Method 2
If the gasket and screen will not come out using the previous method then you will need a scratch awl or ice pick to remove them.
Using the scratch awl or ice pick, deeply pierce the gasket and then pry it down. If the gasket is old and dried out then it will be more difficult to remove and will come out in pieces. Repeat until all remnants of the old gasket are removed.
Cleaning The Group
- Before installing the new gasket and screen it is very important to clean the group head. Make up a solution of hot water and backflushing cleanser. Using the provided cleaning brush and cleanser, clean the group head and be sure the groove that the gasket sits in is completely free of any residual gasket material and coffee grounds or the new gasket will not seat properly.
Group Gasket And Screen Installation
-
- Step 1
With the writing or beveled side of the gasket facing up insert the screen into the gasket as shown to the right. It is also recommended to use a little bit of food-grade lubricant around the perimeter of the gasket to make installation easier.
- Step 2
Remove the insert basket from one of your portafilters and then insert the screen and gasket into the portafilter as shown to the right.
Group Gasket And Screen Installation
- Step 3
With the gasket and screen in the portafilter, press the portafilter into the group head as shown. Apply equal upward pressure on the portafilter so the gasket goes in evenly. Once
the gasket is up far enough then lock the portafilter into the group head and
turn as far right as possible. Then remove the portafilter and re-install the
insert basket and then
work the gasket up further into the grouphead using the portafilter with the
basket installed. If you are having trouble then remove the portafilter and
press the screen up
further by hand and then try using the portafilter again.
Maintenance Tip: Replacing the gasket on a yearly basis will make the
replacement procedure much easier. There are also benefits to having a new
gasket. It will provide a
better seal for better espresso extraction and it also enables you to be able
to remove the shower screen without ruining the gasket to provide for better
cleaning which will
result in better tasting shots.
Descaling
- Descaling is the process of running a descaling agent such as citric acid through the machine to remove the accumulation of mineral deposits.
- If you are using softened water then it should not be necessary to descale the machine.
- Often times descaling can cause more problems than it solves. It can react to the minerals and foam over ruining electrical components. If the solution is too strong it can
cause the chrome plating inside the group to flake off and get in the coffee or if it’s too weak it can dislodge minerals and cause a blockage. For liability reasons we strongly
discourage descaling and will not provide any instructions on the process.
Troubleshooting
No steam from steam wand
- Make sure the machine has been turned on for at least 15 minutes with the power switch in the “II” heating position and the steam switch in the on position.
- Check the steam tip for a blockage. Clean steam tip holes with a paper clip.
- Check the steam wand for a blockage by unscrewing the steam tip from the wand.
- Check the inside of the steam tip for dried-up milk and then also check the wand for dried-up milk inside.
- Refer to the “Not Heating” section of the troubleshooting manual.
No Water From Hot Water Wand
-
Make sure the machine has been turned on for at least 15 minutes with the power switch in the “II” heating position and the steam switch in the on position. The pump
the switch also must be on for hot water. -
Check the steam tip for a blockage. Clean steam tip holes with a paper clip.
-
Check the steam wand for a blockage by unscrewing the steam tip from the wand.
Check the inside of the steam tip for dried-up milk and then also check the wand for dried-up milk inside. -
Refer to the “Not Heating” section of the troubleshooting manual.
Not Heating
-
Verify the machine is plugged into the outlet and the outlet has power. Verify the power switch is in the “
**II**
” heating position. -
Check the resettable hi-limit switch on the boiler.
Unplug the machine from the outlet and remove the outer body panels. Locate the resettable hi-limit switch on top of the boiler shown in the picture to the upper right. Press the small center button down firmly to reset. Re- install the outer body panels and then plug the machine back in and turn the power switch to the “II” heating
position. Wait 15 minutes for the machine to heat up. -
Make sure the water reservoir is filled with water and is fully seated as far down into the machine as it can go.
Espresso Coming Out Too Slow Or Not At All
- Install the backflush disc into your portafilter and then lock it into the group head. Raise the brew lever to check the pump pressure. Recommended setting with the backflush disc is 9.5-10 bar. Adjust the pump pressure if necessary. Please refer to the maintenance section of the owner’s manual for instructions.
- If pump pressure is good then try adjusting the grind coarser.
- Make sure the longer silicone water line in the reservoir is at the bottom of the reservoir below the water level.
- Make sure the screen on the end of the silicone water line in the reservoir is not clogged with debris.
- Be sure the insert basket is not overfilled with coffee and you are tamping with no more than 30lbs of pressure.
Espresso Coming Out Too Fast
-
Install the backflush disc into your portafilter and then lock it into the group head.
Raise the brew lever to check the pump pressure. Recommended setting with the backflush disc is 9.5-10 bar. Adjust the pump pressure if necessary. Please refer to
the maintenance section of the owner’s manual for instructions. -
If pump pressure is good then try adjusting grind finer.
-
Be sure the insert basket is filled with the proper amount of coffee and you are tamping with 30lbs of pressure.
Warranty
The Alexia comes with a 2-year parts and labor warranty starting from the original date of purchase to protect against defects in materials or workmanship. The warranty is void if the product has been damaged by abuse, neglect, or modification. The warranty is provided by the seller of the machine. Contact your distributor for more information.n
We Are Here To Help
Enjoy your new espresso machine and remember, should you have any questions,
either visit our FAQ section at the bottom of our website or contact my staff
or me by phone at 518-452-5995 or by
email at support@chriscoffee.com
Please remember: Save the shipping carton and all the packing material that
came with your machine. This is very important should you need to return your
machine to us. If you do need to send your machine back for any reason, you
must first call our service department and obtain a Return Authorization
number prior to shipping. Be sure to insure
your machine and pack it securely. We can’t be responsible for any damage that
might occur while in transit to us. Properly packing your machine with the
original carton and
packing material minimizes this possibility. Should it be necessary for you to
file a damage claim with the shipper, we will of course be happy to assist you
with the required forms.
Thank you again for your business,
References
- Proportional–integral–derivative controller - Wikipedia
- Group Gaskets | Chris' Coffee
- Shower Screens, Espresso Machine Parts | Chris' Coffee