snabb S60-V70 Ultimate Volvo Intercooler Kit Instruction Manual
- June 2, 2024
- snabb
Table of Contents
snabb S60-V70 Ultimate Volvo Intercooler Kit Instruction Manual
Included in Kit
½” Drive socket set (recommended)
1/8th Drive socket with wobble extensions
7/16th deep socket for Tbolts
Black Spray Paint (optional to conceal A/C Dryer)
Chanel Locks (large)
Drill and drill bits up to 3/8”
Impact Driver (If available though not necessary)
Marker
Measuring tape
Metal File, Angle Grinder or
Dremmel with grind wheel (ideal)
Metric socket set
Plastic Bone Tool (bumper trim)
Screw drivers
Torx driver set
Thread sealant
Zip Ties
Abbreviations:
CLP – Cold Lower Pipe
DS – Drivers Side
IAT Sensor– Intake Air Temperature Sensor
IC – Intercooler
MAP Sensor – Manifold Absolute Pressure
PS – Passenger Side
TB – Throttle Body
UCP – Upper Charge Pipe
WD-40 or soapy lubricant will aid in the positioning of pipes and silicone.
Without lubricant it will be difficult to position the parts for correct
assembly.
Included in Kit
Piping & IC
(1) 22”x 13”x 2.75” Bar and Plate Intercooler or
(1) 22”x 9”x 3” Bar and Plate Intercooler
(1) polished 2.75” 6061 Aluminum straight pipe
(3) polished 2.5” 6061 Aluminum pipes
– upper charge pipe
– cold side S-pipe
– hot side 9.5” straight pipe Silicone
(1) 2.5” silicone hump hose coupler
(1) 2.5” 180° silicone coupler (Hot side to end tank)
(1)2.5” 90° silicone coupler (Cold Side from end tank)
(1) 2.75”>2.5” silicone reducing coupler
(1) 3”> 2.75” silicone coupler (Throttle body) Clamps
(8) 2.88” Tbolt clamps
(2) 3.25” Tbolt clamps
(1) 2.25” Tbolt clamp (Not with K24 V-band turbo)
(1) #48 worm clamp (throttle Body)
Hardware
(2) Stainless Steel Support Brackets
(2) M8 X 14mm bolts (brackets to IC)
(2) Stainless 5/16th lock washers
(4) #12×1” Self Tapping Screws (For IC Brackets, upper/lower)
(1) 1/8th NPT nut (H20 injection port plug)
(4) M6x30mm bolts (replaces longer mounting bolts)
(1) M6x12mm bolt with washer (early, dual sensor adapter) or
(1) M5x20mm bolt with washer (late, combined adapters)
Turbo Coupler Options (Depending on Style)
2.5”>2” angled coupler (Mitsubishi TD04Hl Turbo) or
2.5”>2” straight coupler (K24- 06+ R, TDO4l turbos – 13t 14t) or
K24 V- Band Flange Adapter Setup (Extra Charge)
(1) Aluminum Billet Flange Adapter
(1) 2.5 > 2” Silicone Coupler
(1) 2.5” Oeticker spring Worm Clamp
(1) Viton O Ring
BEFORE STARTING WORK -Remove negative terminal from battery
Jack up the front of your car. Always use a floor jack plus 2 jack-stands to
make sure you have three points of contact for safety in case the jack fails.
You will want to place the jack-stands under the side rails of the sub frame
so that they are not in the way for your installation. Preliminary Details.
Note: Where applicable, 01-04 vehicles use 12mm and 10mm bolts, while 05-09
vehicles have downsized spec to 8mm bolts.
It is recommended that you remove the hood insulation to eliminate potential
rubbing on the UCP. Although not necessary for installation this will
eliminate rubbing on the UCP. Remove tabs (below left) and lift insulation off
hood (below right).
Remove (4) 13 mm strut bar mount bolts; two on each side which connect the
strut bar mounting bracket to the strut tower. Remove 15 mm bolt and 18 mm nut
from stabilizer bushing on engine head (below left). Lift bar and remove from
engine bay. This will give access to turbo housing and stock UCP. On later
cars remove the (2) bolts securing the air guide to the underside of the cross
brace (below right).
Remove existing intercooler piping and hoses. Remove (2) T-25 Torx screws securing factory UCP to front of intake manifold. On R cars there are (3) T-25 Torx screws with the extra one towards the rear of the engine head.
Loosen 7mm clamp from lower side of UCP (Below Left). Lift factory UCP from engine and remove. Loosen 7mm clamp from hot (PS) of IC and remove coupler from IC (Below Right).
Carefully remove clips holding MAP and IAT sensors from factory CLP. Note: 01-02 vehicles have separate sensors (see below left), while 03-07/09 vehicles have a combined sensor mounted on the factory IC, (see below right)
NOTE: For throttle body pipe removal the clamp is typically facing forward
(toward the fan shroud) on a factory vehicle. We recommend using a 7mm socket
to get to this. The space is tight you have to reach under the intake manifold
to get to this clamp. It is very helpful to have a mirror to locate the clamp
head before you get started.
Some vehicles may have throttle body clamp oriented facing towards DS tire.
Throttle body clamps in this situation can be accessed from the side of the
intake manifold with a 1/8″ drive socket and 14″ extension, as seen on the
next page (below left).
Remove Bumper Cover. Note: A helper is recommended and will make removing the
bumper cover much easier
Remove (2) 12mm or 10mm bolts accessed behind trim pieces on the front of the
bumper cover, one on each side (below right). It will help to gently pry the
trim piece out at the corner with a plastic trim tool or bone tool to get a
finger hold, the trim will then unsnap from the bumper cover(below left).
Using a flat plastic tool will help to prevent damaging the surface of the
bumper.
(01-04 vehicles) Loosen (2) T-25 bolts, one in each fender well, turn screw
counterclockwise to loosen the retaining clips (below left). Remove (2) 8mm
nuts from the headlamp wipers, remove the washer fluid hoses and take off the
wipers (below right). Pull out bumper cover corners, away from fender wells
and slide bumper cover off vehicle.
(05-09 vehicles) Remove (2) bolts, one on each side, from the top of the fender wells which secure the top tips of the bumper cover (pic 1). Slide the bumper cover forward just enough to access the headlamp washer jet assembly (pic 2). Remove the retaining clips (pic 3) and slide the bumper cover off the vehicle (pic 4).
Remove Headlight Bolts. Remove (6) 10mm or 8mm headlight bolts, (2) on top of cross brace (below right) and (1) behind grill for each headlight (below left). Full removal of headlights is optional though not necessary to remove factory IC. Note: If full headlight removal is not desired continue on to Cross Brace Removal.
Cross Brace Removal. Remove (10) bolts securing cross brace to frame. (8) on top, (2) on the face (see below)
Disconnect the wiring harness for the horns behind DS headlight (Below Left). Remove (4) 10mm or 8mm hood latch bolts, two on each side of cross member face (Below Right). Pull Cross brace forward and away from securing pins on bumper, then up and off. Hold in position.
Next, on underside of cross brace (DS mounted at the top), disconnect hood latch wiring harness (below left) and remove the hood latch cable from the clips (below right) freeing the cross brace from hood latch assembly. Remove the cross brace from the vehicle. Note: It is a good idea to temporarily zip- tie the hood latch assembly to the front of the bumper reinforcement bar to keep it out of the way.
Next, un-clip the rubber tabs from the cross brace at the four corners of the auxiliary shroud (see below). Swing the coolant line and shroud out towards PS and secure away to headlight frame with zip tie.
Splash Guard Removal. Remove (2) 10 mm bolts securing each side of the splash guard to the frame (below left). Disengage the two tabs from the slots on the bottom of the bumper and remove the guard from the vehicle (below right).
Cooling Fan Shroud. Disconnect (2) wiring harnesses, one on top (below left) and one on PS of cooling fan shroud (below right).
Remove coolant hose and loom from tabs on top of shroud, clip or disconnect any ties holding wiring to shroud and set coolant hose and loom out of the way (below left). On older cars remove (2) Torx screws holding EVAP valve to DS of shroud (below right).
Remove (2) 10mm or 8mm bolts securing top corners of shroud to the radiator (below left). Once free of all wiring and hoses, lift shroud up and out of tabs on bottom of radiator and set aside (below right).
Note: On automatic vehicles the DS AC condenser line will have to be bent to create clearance for the lower transmission cooling line once the factory intercooler is removed. You will only need to compress the line to create sufficient clearance from the lower transmission cooling hard line. To do this compress the line just enough so that the A/C condenser sits tight against the radiator. A large set of channel locks is very effective for this (see below).
Before installing any hoses the corner tab on the PS of the A/C condenser will have to be rounded off with a file or grinder. We have found that a Dremmel tool equipped with a grinding wheel to be very effective for this (see below).
Factory IC Removal. Disconnect A/C dryer harness. Note: There are three types of A/C condensers; If car is equipped with the early silver A/C dryer with black lines (Bottom left), it will have to be slightly rotated forward (below right), to allow it to sit tightly against the radiator when the factory IC is removed. This is most easily accomplished by grasping the mounting clamp which secures the dryer to the A/C condenser with a large pair of channel locks and bending it forward towards the bumper.
The black hard line protruding in front of the space where the hot inlet side of the factory IC was located (as seen below) will have to be bent towards the A/C condenser to make room for the new Snabb 180° coupler.
On Cars equipped with the auxiliary IC (as shown below) the clearances are
extremely tight as there is an extra intercooler elbow. Removal is only
possible in one configuration. Keep working at it and it will come out.
Removal sequence is the same for all factory IC’s, PS side first, then up and
out from DS. It’s helpful to have the radiator and condenser very loose for
this process. The condenser has to be pulled toward the front of the car and
the radiator has to be pushed toward the rear of the car. Keep manipulating
the three pieces to free the IC from the assembly. This can be quite
challenging and requires effort to get out for this style. Having an extra set
of hands to move the condenser and radiator around really helps.
Reconnect radiator to condenser with provided M6x30 bolts. Reinstall radiator
mounting bolts to frame underneath.
Note: Only tighten radiator mounting bolts half way. This will allow for ease
of installation of new piping. Reinstall fan shroud, loom, cooling hose and
wiring harnesses. Install New IC Piping. Note: Use WD 40 or soapy water to
lubricate pipe ends for ease of assembly Assemble TB coupler, 2.75″ pipe and
2.75″ > 2.5″ reducing coupler with 2.88″ and 3.25″ clamps and ½ tighten (below
left). Install TB coupler onto TB with # 48 worm clamp and 1/2 tighten (below
right).
Note: It is recommended to install #48 throttle body clamp with worm gear nut
facing DS tire with a 1/8″ drive socket and 14″ extension as seen in removal
pic on page 4.
Install 90° IC coupler to bottom of S-pipe with 2.88″ clamp and ½ tighten.
Snake S-shaped 2.5″ cold pipe through opening on DS between radiator and frame
(below left). Note: It is a good idea to wrap S-pipe with foam to prevent
scratching the pipe when it is guided through the opening. Once in place
remove wrapping. Connect top of S-pipe to TB reducing coupler with 2.88″
clamps and ½ tighten (below right).
Note: Make sure fan shroud wiring harness is located above S-pipe before
connection is made.
Slide 180° coupler through PS opening, between frame and radiator, with the
long leg towards the inside of the engine bay (below left).
Note: Lubricate outside of 180 ° coupler to allow it to slide more freely
through opening (below right). Place a 2.88″ clamp on the engine side of the
180° coupler.
Now tighten mounting bolts on underside of radiator the rest of the way (see below).
Install 9.5″ straight pipe in to engine side of 180° coupler and ½ tighten
clamp (next page, pic 1). Install hump hose coupler to top of 9.5″ straight
pipe (next page, pic 2). Install UCP to Turbo coupler with 2.88″ clamps ½
tighten. Install top section of UCP to Turbo with the 2.25″ clamp and bottom
section to hump hose coupler with 2.88″ clamp, ½ tighten (next page, pic 3).
Note: If using K24 Turbo with V-band clamp, insert flange adapter into turbo
outlet and secure with original factory V-band clamp. Then attach turbo
coupler to flange adapter with Oeticker worm clamp.
Next, align UCP and re-install T-25 bolt through bracket on UCP and into
mounting point on top of engine (next page, pic 4).
Install New IC. Place a 2.88″ clamp onto the 90° coupler and one onto the IC
side of the 180° coupler. Lift new IC into space behind bumper from below and
connect upper hot side to 180° coupler first (below left), then cold
lower side to 90° coupler (below right), ½ tighten clamps (note orientation of
clamps below).
Note: If working alone it may help to support IC from below while making coupler connections.
IC Bracket Installation.
Bolt upper brackets to IC using M8 x 14mm bolts and 5/16 lock washers and
center IC so that each side is roughly 2″ from the sides of the A/C condenser.
Drill a hole through each bracket approximately at the location shown above
and into the bumper and fasten bracket to bumper with (2) 12×1 self- tapping
screws (below left). Mark location of lower A/C condenser bracket bolts onto
lower IC mounting tabs. Drill holes through lower IC mounting tabs and fasten
lower IC to lower condenser with (2) 12x 1 self-tapping screws, one on each
side (below right).
Now fully tighten all T-bolts and worm clamps.
Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Refer back to pictures to help identify
wiring harness hook-ups and bolt sizes. Note: For 01-02 IAT & MAP sensors
(early style), IAT clips in while MAP sensor is secured with M6x12 bolt and
lock washer. For 03-09 (late style) the MAP sensor is secured with M5x20 bolt
and M5 split ring lock washer.
Note: On cars equipped with the A/C dryer that was adjusted forward, you will
need to trim a small section of the splash guard as seen in the pictures
below, (PS around A/C dryer, below left) and (DS below right).
Note: Orientation of A/C Condenser is now closer to radiator (See Below). Before bolting cross brace back to frame check to see if A/C charge port is accessible. If it is not, trim cross member around charge port hole with a grinder, hole saw or dremmel tool to make charge port accessible.
Note : The (2) mounting bolts that secure the top of the radiator to the cross
brace may no longer line up, (seen below left/right). This is of no concern as
the radiator is now secured to the bumper reinforcement bar via the upper and
lower IC brackets.
Note: On S60’s the gasket on the outer edge of the splash guard will have to be trimmed to make room for the new IC. Note: S60 R bumpers will require a .75″ to 1″ section to be trimmed of the rear edge of the bumper to make room for the Snabb IC (see picture below). There are multiple bumper styles on the market and additional trimming of inside of bumpers may be necessary.
Note: Finally, you may wish to spray the A/C dryer or any other visible metal parts with black spray paint prior to installing bumper. Note: Re- check and tighten all clamps as necessary. Check for leaks and test drive. Thank you for your purchase and we hope you enjoy your Snabb FMIC kit!