1:32 SlurryKat 3500G Tandem Axle Slurry Tanker Instruction Manual

: June 16, 2024
: SlurryKat

Table of Contents

Installation Instructions
Customer Support
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Download This Manual (PDF format)

1:32 SlurryKat 3500G Tandem Axle Slurry Tanker

CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER

The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting.

Installation Instructions

This is a rough guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are not in the instructions should be carried out.
Paint: Components can be painted at any time in the build, it is a case of what suits the builder. We tend to use Automotive spray paints such as Halfords or Hycote or Hobby Paints like Humbrol, Revell or Tamiya.
Glue: Recommended glue is contact adhesive or super glue. Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue is what we prefer.

Step One. Remove parts from the sprue, remove the plastic backing and sand the parts.
Take care when removing parts, acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap with too much pressure. To remove parts from the sprue gently apply pressure to the sprue attachment points with a craft knife until the part pops out.
Peel the plastic off the back, this is best achieved by nicking a corner with a craft knife and peeling. To improve the adhesion of glue and paint we recommend sanding all parts with 220 grit or finer sand paper. This removes any burs created in the cutting process and improves surface adhesion. Do the same for the clear tube parts.
Step Two. Begin by constructing the chassis. Glue 7 and 8 back to back, aligning with the bottom straight edge. Repeat for the other side ensuring you glue them the opposite way round
Step Three. Construct the drawbar cross member. Glue the two brackets 11 into the slots on 9. Glue 12 to the back of 9. Then glue them to one side of the chassis rail. They should slot in to the front as illustrated.
Step Four. Build the rear member by gluing 34 to 29 as pictured. Then glue this to the rear of a chassis rail. Add the suspension cross member 33 to complete a side.
Step Five. Add the second chassis rail aligning the cross members with their correlating slots. Cap off the front of the chassis with 6 and support this at the rear with 2x 26.
Step Six. The drawbar consists of two 10’s glued back to back. The drawbar eye 30 glues in the front slot and the flat plate 17 into the top slot. This can then be glued into the chassis. The front glues in the slot and the rear is pinned in place with a small length of wire. Test fit the wheels to determine what drawbar pin position to use with your chosen tractor.
Cap off with the resin spring detail (may require flash trimming off to fit) and on the underside the two 24’s
Step Seven. Glue the mudguards to the chassis. 4’s glue to the front and 5’s to the rear. Ensure the two ends of 4 and 5 are glued together in the middle.
Step Eight. Begin the construction of the barrel. Glue the front end cap to the barrel front. This should have 2 rectangular holes and 2 circular. It glues to the end furthest from the mudguard cutouts. Align the notch at the bottom and glue in place. Repeat for the rear which should have 1 circular hole, 3 rectangular and two stubs sticking out. Please make sure to wash the resin dishes thoroughly in warm soapy water before fitting to avoid any reactions with the paintwork later.
Step Nine. Attach the barrel to the chassis, it should glue to the chassis rails, cross members and around the mudguards. It will naturally locate itself via the mudguards.
Step 10. Begin adding details. On the rear the two brackets 31 and the bottom bracket 32. On the front add the pressure gauge to the top corner and the hose holder made of 22 and 23 to the centre. You can also glue the sight glass brackets in place but they are easier to paint and fit with the glass later.
Step 11. Mark the barrel for hose holders. Position a ruler flat against both mudguards and draw a straight line along the slope created. Mark out the location of the holders 39 as pictured and glue in place. Repeat for the other side.
Step 12. Glue the laser cut handles to the gate valves as pictured. Make sure to remove the paper backing from both sides first. The gate valves can then be glued to the rear. The long shaft one glues into the centre hole of the rear, the two shorter shaft ones glue to the stubs on each side of the dish.
The gauge glass glues to the hole at the top of the dish.
Step 13. Glue the inspection hatch to the nearside just above the chassis rail. Add the sweeping tube forward of the hatch and glue the gate valve with no shaft to the tube. The pump can be glued to the plate on the drawbar and the pto socket glued to the front of the pump.
Step 14. The inlet can be glued to the top, it is shaped to wrap around the tube. Glue the pipe connector to the top as illustrated.
Step 15. Add the light brackets level on either side of the tube. If fitting the overhedge boom mark a centre line and mark a line 11mm from each side of the centre.
Glue the brackets 44 to the rear using the lines as the marker. If fitting the spreader plate do this now
If fitting additional kits; boom, umbilical pump or lazy arm refer to their instruction manuals now.
Step 16. The tanker is now ready to paint.
Paint is a personal choice, all information is provided as a recommendation. Please paint in the way you are most comfortable or familiar with.
We recommend beginning paint by ensuring the clear and white plastic parts have had a light sand with high grade sand paper (220-600 Grit is suitable) and that all the cream resin and grey printed parts have been thoroughly washed with warm soapy water.
All paints used are aerosol spray cans, you can brush paint but the finish will not be as good. Once prepped we recommend a grey plastic primer. We use Halfords or Hycote Grey Plastic Primer but any primer is suitable.
Depending on which colour you are painting the tanker you may wish to apply additional coloured primer. For red tanks apply a red primer (Halfords offer a Red Plastic Primer which can be used without a grey undercoat).
For lighter colours and whites apply a white plastic primer, we always recommend a grey primer under a white primer to give all the components a uniform base colour.
Once the primer is dried you can apply the top coat. In our photos the red paint is Halfords Peugeot Cherry Red and the blue is Sky Blue RAL5015 mixed at a local car body supply shop. Apply coats lightly, allow to dry inbetween coats and build up until you are satisfied with the colour finish. Allow to dry in a warm dust free place.
To give an extra shine to the model you can apply a lacquer such as Halfords Clear Lacquer. This should be warmed before applying and the model kept warm while drying. Sat ontop of a radiator is a good spot!

Allow the paint to fully cure for a couple of days before handling the model. When dry the detailing paint can be applied. To add extra details we have painted parts of the model like the gate valves and spreader plates sliver. To do this we have first applied with a brush a matt black modelling paint such as Tamiya XF Flat Black and then applied a silver paint such as Tamiya Silver, again painting on with a brush. The mudguards are done by first placing a thin strip of masking tape 5mm in from the edge and then painting the black followed by silver.
Step 17: Add the decals. The SlurryKat decals are supplied with the kit. Other brand decals are available on the website. To use the decals first carefully cut them out from the sheet they are supplied on. Cut as close to the outline of each sticker as you are comfortable with. Then simply peel of the backing paper and stick the decals down ensuring no air bubbles are trapped beneath. See the later photos of the finished models to see where all the decals go.
Step 18: Add the hoses. Push fit the black hose onto the top fill point as pictured. Route it to the pressure valve, mark and cut to length, then push fit to the valve. Repeat from the valve to the pump. You may also wish to add a short length to the pump overflow, gluing the loose end to the side of the drawbar.
Step 19: To fit the sight glass we recommend painting the two fittings first. Here we have mixed a colour using Grey and Orange Tamiya model paints, you may wish to buy a colour that already matches. Fit one of the fittings in place with a small amount of glue, be careful to avoid the paintwork if using superglue as it will fog.
For any gluing after paint we recommend Deluxe Materials Glue ’n’ Glaze. You may need to trim away any excess paint or give the ends of the fittings a quick sand to fit in the holes. Then cut the clear pipe to length (30mm) and push fit to the installed fitting. Push fit the second fitting to the other end of the tube then glue onto the tanker
The side pipes can also now be cut to length (160mm) and a quick connect fitting pushed in the end. The internal dimeter of the pipe may need a quick trim with a knife to get a nice fit.
Paint the fitting silver.

To fit the wheels dab a small bit of glue to the end of an axle, then push fit into one of the rim/tyres, cut small spacers (approx. 3mm long) from the straw or remaining black tube and slide one onto the axle. Then slide the axle through both sides of the suspension, put a second spacer on and glue the other rim/tyre on. Check the tread patterns are running the same way!