AVASTA BIKES A003 Populus Road Hybrid Bike Owner’s Manual

AVASTA BIKES A003 Populus Road Hybrid Bike

Specifications

• Product Name: EZ Z Stem
• Model Number: ZZZZ
• Color: Black
• Material: Steel

BICYCLE OWNER’S MANUAL

• This manual is used for multiple product models, contains important safety, perfor­mance and maintenance information. Read the manual before taking your first ride on your new bicycle, and keep the manual handy for future reference.

ROTATE STEM AND FORK

• There are many different shape of forks, we illustrate two typical type here to help you understand. The forks should be curving slightly forwards Fig. 3.2.1, or the fork dropout facing forward. Fig.3.2.2, 3.2.3

WARNING

• Most of the models are packed with the fork turned inverted. If the fork is still installed inverted after completely assemble, the front wheels may contact with the frame and pedals when riding, which will be really dangerous. Be su to rotate the front fork and stem before starting assembly.

STEM INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT

• There are two different types of stem. Quill stems and ‘A’ head (or thread less) stems. Which ever type you have, make sure that when you install the stem / handlebar you don’t twist the cables. They run in a smooth arc from the  shifter or brake lever to the front brake or cable stop on the frame. Important! If they are twisted or kinked, the shifting and braking will not work.

HEAD OR THREADLESS STEMS

• To install or remove a handlebar you need to release the clamping bolts on the front of the stem (there are usually either 2 or 4), then insert the handlebar and tighten EACH NUT A LITTLE AT A TIME, ensuring that the gap between stem and clamping clamp stays
• even. Take care to centre the handlebar in the stem If you need to adjust the angle of the handlebar you can do this by loosening the clamping bolts slightly, turning the handlebar to the desired angle ensuring it stays centred, and tightening again.

This stem is open ended and wraps around the steerer tube with pinch bolts and has a top cap also.

To adjust this stem you need to loosen the top cap and the pinch bolts by turning anti-clockwise with an Allen key. If you are completely removing the cap to either install or change the stem, be sure to have the fork on the ground or if not that you are holding on to it, as once

1. you release the top cap, it is liable to fall through, causing you to lose parts of the head set
2. Once these are loose, you can adjust the stem and make sure it is in line with the front wheel
3. When tightening, you should start with the top cap and tighten it until the stem and fork are held in place, but the stem will rotate left to right. Then tighten the pinch bolts evenly with the stem in line with the forks it may be easier to re-adjust this with

Note. stem higher can not be clouted met tie type or stem. should you require a noon do segment you should vat o qualia dicycle mechanic for cocoon Note: Stem height can not be adjusted with this type of stem.

Should you require a height adjustments you should visit a qualified bicycle mechanize for advice on different types of stem to suit your style of riding. 51¼ •

WARNING
You MUST make sure the stem & handlebar is inserted beyond the minimum insertion mark. If you don’t you may damage the bike or the stem. You may also lose control and fall, which could cause you serious injury. Once you have finished assembling you should test the stem by holding the front wheel between your leg and trying to turn the handlebars. If these turn without turning the front wheel you need to line the handlebar back up and re-tighten.

QUILL STEMS

This type of stem has a wedge on the bottom which fits into the fork steerer tube.

1. To adjust or install this type of stem, you need to loosen the center bolt enough so that the stem will fit / become loose in the steerer tube, by turning it anti-clockwise with an Allen key.
2. You can then insert or adjust the step You can rotate it left to right and you can also adjust the height. It is very important that you observe the minimum insertion mark and that you insert the stem beyond this. This must not be visible once the stem is installed.
3. Once your stem is in place and in line with the forks, tighten it up by turning the Centre bolt clockwise (it may be easier to re- adjust this with the front wheel fittest the stem is in line with it.

Handlebar rotation

• If you need to adjust the angle of your handlebar, you can do this by loosening the clamping nut. The handlebar will then rotate freely in the stem. Adjust to desired angle, and ensuring the bar is still centred in the stem, tighten the clamping bolt.

SADDLE INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT SADDLE HEIGHT

As mentioned earlier, saddle height is very important in order to make your cycling experience more enjoyable and of course safer.
The correct saddle height should not cause your knee to lock out with your foot on the pedal in the downward most position, however your knee should only be slightly bent.

• To insert saddle or to adjust saddle height, you need to release the seat clamp. This will require either a spanner or an Allen key, or in some cases may be a quick release mechanism, which can be released by hand.
• Once the seat clamp is released, the seat post will become loose and you will be able to move the saddle up and down.
• Once your saddle is at the desired height, tighten up the seat clamp again as shown.

• Note : With a quick release lever, to apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers around the bicycle frame for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand. When adjusting the saddle, always be aware of the insertion mark and always make sure this is not visible above the frame, or you risk damaging your bicycle or losing control and causing yourself serious injury or worse.

SADDLE FORE AND AFT ADJUSTMENT

• Your saddle can also be moved backwards and forwards. For optimal riding position you should be able to comfortably reach the handlebars and use the breaks and gears whist riding with your arms slightly bent at the elbows.
  To adjust your saddle just unfasten the nut under the saddle using either a spanner or an alley key and turning anti-clockwise.

1. You can then adjust your saddle backwards and forwards, ensuring that only the flat part of the Sadie rail is in the clamp
2. Tighten the nut under the saddle back up by turning clockwise

WHEEL INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT

• The wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in the fork and frame. Examples below

• Dropouts come in way too many different shapes and sizes to be able to illustrate them all here, but these examples should guide you to identifying where your dropouts are. There are two types of wheel fastening systems, and your bike may have one, the other, or in some cases one of each. It is important that you know which Tung of custom le your hieuelo is banned with and that wonder stand how, thane work

How does it work?

• The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release lever pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut against the other dropout.
• The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force. You should tighten the tension adjusting nut until it is finger tight before closing the quick release lever.

Installing and adjusting a front wheel with a quick release system

• If your bike comes with a quick release front wheel, this will usually come separate to the wheel and will look something like the picture below.

1. You need to remove the tension adjusting nut and one spring from the skewer by turning but anti-clockwise.
2. You should then insert the skewer through the wheel axle, put the spring back in place (always with the narrow end of the spring facing the wheel) and screw the tension adjusting nut back on very loosely, just a couple of turns will do.
3. For this step, as long as your saddle and handlebar are installed, it helps to turn the bike upside down. You should then insert the wheel into the dropouts as shown, ensuring that the springs are to the outside of the dropout. The quick release lever should be on the opposite side to the the chain side. You may need to release the brakes to get the wheel through. If this is the case, go the brakes section of this manual where you will find instructions on how to do this. Important! Some tire tread patterns have a direction, so compare your front tire and rear tire of the bicycle so that both tread patterns face the same way.
4. Once the wheel is in place in the dropouts, hold the quick release lever in the open position, and turn the tension adjusting nut in a clockwise direction until it is finger tight. Once it is finger tight, move the quick release lever to the closed position, so that it is parallel with the fork.

• Should you need to remove your wheel to replace it or to repair it, simply reverse these steps.

WARNING

• If you disengaged your brake to get the wheel in, it is very important that you now re-engage it. Visit the brakes section of this manual for instructions on how to do this.

Removing or adjusting a rear wheel with a quick release system

• This step is easier with the bike upside down, resting on the saddle and the handlebars. For that purpose, the images here show what these steps look like with the bike upside down.

1. Should your bike have gears, shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
2. You then may need to release the brakes to get enough clearance for the wheel to pass through. Should this be the case, see the brakes section in this manual for instructions on how to do this.
3. Open the quick release lever, then push the wheel forward far enough to be able to remove the chain from the rear sprocket.
4. Should your bike have gears, pull the derailleur body back with your right hand to release the tension on the chain and hold it there for the next step.
5. You can now remove the wheel out of the dropouts.

When you come to replace your wheel, simply reverse these steps.

WARNING

• It you disengaged your brake to get the wheel in, it is very important that you now re-engage it. Visit the brakes section of this manual for instructions on how to do this.

NUTTED WHEEL SYSTEM

How does it work?

• The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the nuts against the dropouts. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tightness of the nuts. Turning the tnuts clockwise increases clamping force; turning them counterclockwise reduces clamping force. Both nuts need tightening to correct torque, available at the rear of this manual

Installing and adjusting a front wheel with a nutted system

If your bike comes with a nutted front wheel, the nuts will usually come already on the front wheel.

1. Make sure the wheel nuts are loosened by turning anticlockwise, exposing as much of the thread as possible.
   Important! Some tire tread patterns have a direction, so compare your front tire and rear tire of the bicycle so that bot tread patterns face the same way.

2. it For this step, as long as your saddle and handlebar are installed, it helps to turn the bike upside down. You should then insert the wheel into the dropouts as shown, ensuring that the locking washers are on the outside of the fork as shown. You may need to release the brakes to get the wheel through. If this is the case, go the brakes section of this manual where you will find instructions on how to do this.

IF YOU HAVE A TRADITIONAL BASKET A

If your bike comes with a traditional basket the bracket for this needs be installed before we can secure the wheel in place. You will need to remove the nuts completely from the front wheel before sitting the wheel in the front dropouts.

• a With the wheel sat in the fork, insert the locking washers on to the axles, securing the pin in place as shown.
• b Then insert the basket bracket, with the flat part facing towards the bike frame as shown.
• c Finally, screw the nut on clockwise. You should only screw this on finger tight for the time being, we will tighten it once the basket is installed.
• Place the pointed side of the locking washer into the hole in the fork as shown, then ensuring the gap between the wheel and the fork is equal on both sides, tighten the nut by turning clockwise using a spanner. Recommended torques can be found at the back of this catalogue

WARNING

• If you disengaged your brake to get the wheel in, it is very important that you now re-engage it. Visit the brakes section of this manual for instructions on how to do this.

PEDALS

• Pedals are marked wither they fit in the left or the right. It is very important to insert the correct pedal into the correct crank arm, as if you don’t you could cross thread them and cause irreparable damage not covered by warranty.

1.  Stickers indicate the left and right pedal. If these have dropped off, look at the end of the thread where it is imprinted.
2. The correct pedal needs to be attached to the matching side of the bike i.e. left pedal to left side and right pedal to right side. By hand, slowly turn the spindle the correct direction. Clockwise for right side pedal, counterclockwise for left side pedal.
3. Important! Stop if you feel resistance! This may be an indication the spindle is entering the hole at an angle. Tighten pedals with spanner provided.

BRAKES

• It’s very important for your safety that you learn and remember which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. Traditionally, the left brake lever controls the rear brake and the right brake lever controls the front brake; but, to make sure your bike’s brakes are set up this way, squeeze one brake lever and look to see which brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same with the other brake lever. Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your local bike shop before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.
• How brakes work The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the braking surfaces.
• To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake pads free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes. Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tyre skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel.
• The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you generate the appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces.
• To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks. When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars).
• A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front braking force.
• This is even more important on descents, because descents shift weight forward.
• Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer.
• This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking, increasing the weight transfer. Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions. Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather.
• It will take longer to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.

RIM BRAKES

• Rim brakes work by squeezing brake pads (usually made out of rubber) against the rim in order to slow the wheel down. Brakes are a very important part of your bike, and you need to familiarize yourself with which type of brake you have. It is important that you keep these serviced. You may need to adjust your brakes, and you may need to release and engage them in order to replace a wheel. In this manual you will find a guide on how to do these. However if you are unsure about anything to do with your brakes or their functions, you should consult a qualified bicycle mechanic before riding your bike.
• You should regularly check these points and adjust accordingly (these rules do not apply for disc brakes). If you are unsure, consult a qualified bicycle mechanic:

• Both brake pads should be parallels and equal distance from the rim (1-1.5mm). As brake pads begin to wear you can fine tune the distance from the pad to the rim by turning the cable adjuster screw on the brake lever. Your brake arms may also have an adjuster on them, see this section to determine which type of brakes your bike has.

The brake pads should not be worn beyond the wear line.

Also

Both brake arms should move the same distance when you squeeze the brake lever. The rim should run freely through the brake pads with no contact when the brake is open. The brake pads should touch the rim before the brake lever is 1/3 of the way to the handlebar.

V Brakes

• To release your V brakes in order to fit or replace your wheel, pull back the black rubber protector and squeeze the to brake arms together. Whilst holding these you can pull the brake out by the noodle as shown.
• To re-engage your brakes once wheel is fitted, you need to squeeze the brake arms together again and reverse step ii.

Note:

1. Turing the screw clockwise moves the pad away from the rim.
2. Turing the screw counterclockwise moves the pad towards the rim.

CALIPER BRAKES A
If you need to release your caliper brakes to install or replace a wheel, slightly loosen the cable pinch bolt. Turn it anti-clockwise with the spanner provided as shown. This will open up the break pads so the wheel fits through.

Once the wheel is in place and tight, squeeze the brake arms together until there is a 1 – 1.5 mm gap between the brake pads and the rim. Both sides should be equal. Whilst holding in place you then need to pull the brake cable tight, and tighten the cable pinch bolt by turning clockwise using the spanner provided as shown.

CALIPER BRAKES B

To release the brakes in order to install or remove a wheel you need to move the quick opener lever to the open position.

Once your wheel is in place you can re-engage your brakes by bringing the lever back down to the lower-most position.

U BRAKES

If you need to release your U brakes to install or replace a rear wheel, squeeze the brake arms together, and slot out the right hand brake cable. This will allow the wheel to pass through. Once you have the wheel securely in place, reverse these steps to engage the brakes.

CABLE TENSION SCREW

• Turn anti-clockwise to fine tune the distance from the brake arms to the wheel when brake pads begin to wear. Once adjusted, tighten locking nut below.

DISC BRAKES

Disc brakes work by squeezing brake pads against a disc in order to slow the wheel down. It is important that you keep these serviced. You may need to adjust these brakes from time to time. If you are unsure about anything to do with your brakes or their functions, you should consult a qualified bicycle mechanic before riding your bike.

You should regularly check these points and adjust accordingly. If you are unsure, consult a qualified bicycle mechanic:

• The wheel should run freely through the brake with no contact with the brake pads when the brake is open.
• The disc should be centered in the slot between the brake pads, as shown.
• Worn brake pads should be replaced immediately.
• The brake pads should touch the rotor before the brake lever is 1/3 of the way to the handlebar.

Be aware that disc brakes will get hot after use. You could severely injure yourself through contact with a hot disc so mind your legs as well as your hands! They also have sharp parts. If you make contact with any part of the brakes whilst the wheel is turning you could also injure yourself.

Before you first ride your bike with disc brakes, give that a clean using rubbing alcohol. NEVER USE OIL TO CLEAN YOUR DISC BRAKES. When you first ride your bike with a disc brake performance may be less than perfect. We recommend riding the bike gently for around 13 – 15 miles to break these in before riding down hills / slopes etc.

avastabikes.com
Point your phone’s camera at the QR code to see the assembly video.

GEARS
Before riding your bike make sure your gears are properly adjusted and that you are happy with how the controls work. If your bike is equipped with gears, it will have either one or two shifters.

The shifter fitted to the right hand side of the handlebar controls the rear gears. These are where you have a number of cogs on the rear wheel, and the chain is moved across them by way of a derailleur. The LARGEST cog is the LOWEST gear and therefore the most easy to pedal, and the SMALLEST cog is the HIGHEST gear, and the hardest to pedal.

The shifter fitted to the left hand side of the handlebar if you have one, will control the front gears. These gears work the opposite to the rear gears, and the SMALLEST cog is the LOWEST gear.

You should select a lower gear to set off and a higher gear once you get going. Most gear shifters have a number indicator to show which gear number you are in. Try not to leave it until you are struggling before you change gear as this will cause you to lose speed and control. Never change gear whilst the bike is not moving or the pedals are not turning, as you could damage your gears and move out of adjustment.

Bikes come with the gears set from the factory, but slight adjustment may be needed before you ride the bike. In this section we will detail the different type of gear changers, and we will also explain how to make slight adjustments to these. Gears should change easily and quietly.
If they don’t, here you will find basic instructions on how to adjust them. You will need to work out from the images which type of gears you have. There are so many brands and models of gears it is impossible to illustrate them all, but they all have similar functions which you will find in the following pages.

IF YOU ARE UNSURE OR DON’T UNDERSTAND ANY OF THESE STEPS CONSULT A QUALIFIED BICYCLE MECHANIC

Derailleurs
Gears are usually controlled by derailleurs, which are the mechanisms that move the chain up and down the cogs. The rear derailleur is controlled by the right hand gear shifter, and the front derailleur by the left shifter.

Setting gears on a rear derailleur

1. Turn the pedals and shift the gear on the right hand gear shifter to the highest number / lowest cog.
2. Look at the derailleur and the cog and these should be in line. If this is not the case, then you can adjust the ‘L’ screw slightly with a Phillips screwdriver until they are.
3. Change the shifter one position and see if the chain moves up one cog easily. If whilst changing gears the chain will either not change cogs, or changes two cogs at a time, you can adjust the cable tension screw. Each derailleur model is different, so we recommend giving it half a turn one way and testing and then adusting accordingly until you achieve the desired result.
4. Now turn the pedals and change the shifter to the lowest number and largest cog.
5. You can now check if the chain and derailleur are in line. If it’s not, or if the derailleur has excessive play towards the wheel, adjust the ‘H’ screw slightly until they are in line with no play.

IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS OR ARE UNSURE ABOUT ANY OF THESE STEPS, CONSULT A QUALIFIED BICYCLE MECHANIC

Setting gears on a rear derailleur

1. Whilst turning the pedals, set the left hand gear shifter to the lowest gear (smallest cog at the front), and the right hand shifter to the highest gear (smallest cog at the back)
2. You should check that the chain is running freely through the cage on the front derailleur without catching. If it catches you can move the cage by slightly adjusting the ‘L’ screw.
3. Leaving the left hand gear shifter where it is, set the right hand shifter to the lowest gear (largest cog) and repeat step 2.
4. Change the left hand shifter up one gear. If the gear doesn’t change smoothly onto the next cog, you can adjust the cable tension screw. For the front derailleur this is found either on the gear shifter (check which one you have in the following section), or on certain road bikes it is found on the downtube of the frame, just above the gear cable guide. Turn slightly and keep testing until you have achieved the desired result.
5. Once the gears are changing correctly shift the left hand shifter on the highest gear and check that the chain cannot clear the cage and come off the cog over the top. If it can, you can adjust it by slightly turning the ‘H’ screw with a Phillips screwdriver.

CABLE TENSION SCREW

• Turn anti-clockwise to fine tune the distance from the brake arms to the wheel when brake pads begin to wear. Once adjusted, tighten locking nut below.

EASYFIRE

EASYFIRE POD

TWIST GRIP

BUTTERFLY

FLIGHT DECK TYPE

Please note that with such a vast selection of brands and models of gears, we cannot illustrate every single type. We have however tried to illustrate all the main types. If you can’t work out which type of gears or how your gears work from this manual, please visit a qualified bicycle mechanic who will be happy to help.

FLIP FLOP REAR HUB (FIXED BIKES)
IF your bike is equipped with flip flop hub, please read the information below.
Your bike had been equipped with a very unique feature a “flip flop” or double sided hub. A flip flop has sprockets on either side of the hub, there is a fixed gear sprocket on one side and a single freewheel on the other side.

When you purchase your bike the fixed gear sprocket will be on the right (chain) side of the bike. Most of the time you will use the fixed gear but if you find yourself tired of the constant pedaling, simply flip the wheel and use the freewheel.

There are two benefits from using the freewheel:

1. The loser gear will make it easier to climb hills.
2. The freewheel will let you coast on descents.

![AVASTA-BIKES-0A003-Populus RoadHybrid-Bik-45]](https://manuals.plus/wp- content/uploads/2023/12/AVASTA-BIKES-0A003-Populus-RoadHybrid-Bik-45.png)

WARNING
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO USE THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKES WHEN THE FREEWHEEL IS USED.

How to flip the wheel.

1. Remove the axle nuts from the rear axle.
2. Slide the wheel forward so that the axle is free of the frame dropouts, and slip the chain off of the sprocket.
3. Flip the wheel around and slide the chain onto the new sprocket.
4. Slide the wheel back into the frame dropouts, until the axle is in the proper location and the chain is tight.
5. Attach the axle nuts and tighten securely.

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