RYOBI RTS23 10 In Table Saw User Manual
- June 9, 2024
- RYOBI
Table of Contents
RTS23 10 In Table Saw
OPERATOR’S MANUAL
MANUEL D’UTILISATION MANUAL DEL OPERADOR
10 in. TABLE SAW
SCIE À TABLE DE 254 mm (10 po) SIERRA DE MESA DE 254 mm (10 pulg.)
RTS23
TABLE OF CONTENTS
**** General Safety Rules …………………..2-3 Table Saw Safety Rules
……………….3-5 Additional Safety Rules …………………. 5 Symbols……………………………………….6
Electrical………………………………………7 Glossary of Terms…………………………. 8
Features…………………………………..9-11 Tools Needed …………………………….. 12 Loose Parts
List………………………….. 13 Assembly ……………………………….14-24 Operation……………………………….25-43
Adjustments …………………………..44-46 Maintenance …………………………..47-48 Accessories
………………………………..48 Troubleshooting ………………………49-50 Parts Ordering / Service …..
Back Page
TABLE DES MATIÈRES
**** Règles de sécurité générales ……….2-3 Règles de sécurité scie
à table …….3-5 Règles de sécurité supplémentaires…….5
Symboles……………………………………..6 Caractéristiques électriques…………… 7
Glossaire………………………………………8 Caractéristiques ……………………….9-11 Outils nécessaires
………………………. 12 Liste des pièces détachées………….. 13 Assemblage……………………………14-24
Utilisation……………………………….25-43 Réglages………………………………..44-46 Entretien
………………………………..47-48 Accessoires ………………………………..48 Dépannage …………………………….49-50
Commande de pièces /
réparation ……………………..Page arrière
WARNING: To reduce the
risk of injury, the user must read and understand the operator’s manual before
using this product.
AVERTISSEMENT :
Pour réduire les risques de blessures, l’utilisateur doit lire et veiller à
bien comprendre le manuel d’utilisation avant d’employer ce produit.
ÍNDICE DE CONTENIDO
**** Reglas de seguridad generales …….2-3 Reglas de seguridad
sierra
de mesa ……………………………………3-5 Advertencias de seguridad
adicionales ………………………………….. 5 Símbolos ……………………………………..6 Aspectos
eléctricos………………………. 7 Glosario de términos …………………….. 8 Características
…………………………9-11 Herramientas necesarias……………… 12 Lista de piezas sueltas
………………… 13 Armado ………………………………….14-24 Funcionamiento………………………25-43
Ajustes…………………………………..44-46 Mantenimiento………………………..47-48
Accesorios…………………………………. 48 Corrección de problemas …………49-50 Pedidos de
piezas /
servicio…………………….. Pág. posterior
ADVERTENCIA: Para reducir
el riesgo de lesiones, el usuario debe leer y comprender el manual del
operador antes de usar este producto.
SAVE THIS MANUAL FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
CONSERVER CE MANUEL POUR FUTURE RÉFÉRENCE
GUARDE ESTE MANUAL PARA FUTURAS CONSULTAS
GENERAL SAFETY RULES
WARNING:
Read all safety warnings, instructions, illustrations and specifications
provided with this power tool. Failure to follow all instructions listed below
may result in electric shock, fire and/or serious injury.
Save all warnings and instructions for future reference. The term “power tool”
in the warnings refers to your mainsoperated (corded) power tool or battery-
operated (cordless) power tool.
WORK AREA SAFETY
Keep work area clean and well lit. Cluttered or dark areas invite accidents.
Do not operate power tools in explosive atmospheres, such as in the presence
of flammable liquids, gases or dust. Power tools create sparks which may
ignite the dust or fumes.
Keep children and bystanders away while operating a power tool. Distractions
can cause you to lose control.
ELECTRICAL SAFETY
Power tool plugs must match the outlet. Never modify the plug in any way. Do
not use any adapter plugs with earthed (grounded) power tools. Unmodified
plugs and matching outlets will reduce risk of electric shock.
Avoid body contact with earthed or grounded surfaces, such as pipes,
radiators, ranges and refrigerators. There is an increased risk of electric
shock if your body is earthed or grounded.
Do not expose power tools to rain or wet conditions. Water entering a power
tool will increase the risk of electric shock.
Do not abuse the cord. Never use the cord for carrying, pulling or unplugging
the power tool. Keep cord away from heat, oil, sharp edges or moving parts.
Damaged or entangled cords increase the risk of electric shock.
When operating a power tool outdoors, use an extension cord suitable for
outdoor use. Use of a cord suitable for outdoor use reduces the risk of
electric shock.
If operating a power tool in a damp location is unavoidable, use a ground
fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protected supply. Use of a GFCI reduces the
risk of electric shock.
PERSONAL SAFETY
Stay alert, watch what you are doing and use common sense when operating a
power tool. Do not use a power tool while you are tired or under the influence
of drugs, alcohol or medication. A moment of inattention while operating power
tools may result in serious personal injury.
Use personal protective equipment. Always wear eye protection. Protective
equipment such as dust mask, non-skid safety shoes, hard hat, or hearing
protection used for appropriate conditions will reduce personal injuries.
Prevent unintentional starting. Ensure the switch is in the off-position
before connecting to power source and/or battery pack, picking up or carrying
the tool. Carrying power tools with your finger on the switch or energizing
power tools that have the switch on invites accidents.
Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench
or a key left attached to a rotating part of the power tool may result in
personal injury.
Do not overreach. Keep proper footing and balance at all times. This enables
better control of the power tool in unexpected situations.
Dress properly. Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry. Keep your hair,
clothing and gloves away from moving parts. Loose clothes, jewelry or long
hair can be caught in moving parts.
If devices are provided for the connection of dust extraction and collection
facilities, ensure these are connected and properly used. Use of dust
collection can reduce dust-related hazards.
Do not let familiarity gained from frequent use of tools allow you to become
complacent and ignore tool safety principles. A careless action can cause
severe injury within a fraction of a second.
POWER TOOL USE AND CARE
Do not force the power tool. Use the correct power tool for your application.
The correct power tool will do the job better and safer at the rate for which
it was designed.
Do not use the power tool if the switch does not turn it on and off. Any power
tool that cannot be controlled with the switch is dangerous and must be
repaired.
Disconnect the plug from the power source and/ or remove the battery pack, if
detachable, from the power tool before making any adjustments, changing
accessories, or storing power tools. Such preventive safety measures reduce
the risk of starting the power tool accidentally.
Store idle power tools out of the reach of children and do not allow persons
unfamiliar with the power tool or these instructions to operate the power
tool. Power tools are dangerous in the hands of untrained users.
Maintain power tools and accessories. Check for misalignment or binding of
moving parts, breakage of parts and any other condition that may affect the
power tool’s operation. If damaged, have the power tool repaired before use.
Many accidents are caused by poorly maintained power tools.
2 – English
GENERAL SAFETY RULES
Keep cutting tools sharp and clean. Properly maintained cutting tools with
sharp cutting edges are less likely to bind and are easier to control.
Use the power tool, accessories and tool bits etc. in accordance with these
instructions, taking into account the working conditions and the work to be
performed. Use of the power tool for operations different from those intended
could result in a hazardous situation.
Keep handles and grasping surfaces dry, clean and free from oil and grease.
Slippery handles and grasping surfaces do not allow for safe handling and
control of the tool in unexpected situations.
SERVICE Have your power tool serviced by a qualified repair
person using only identical replacement parts. This will ensure that the
safety of the power tool is maintained.
TABLE SAW SAFETY RULES
BLADE GUARD, RIVING KNIFE AND ANTI-
KICKBACK PAWLS
Keep guards in place. Guards must be in working order and be properly mounted.
A guard that is loose, damaged, or is not functioning correctly must be
repaired or replaced.
Always use saw blade guard, riving knife and antikickback pawls for every
through-cutting operation. For through-cutting operations where the saw blade
cuts completely through the thickness of the workpiece, the guard and other
safety devices help reduce the risk of injury.
Immediately reattach the guarding system after completing an operation (such
as rabbeting, dadoing or resawing cuts) which requires removal of the guard,
riving knife and/or anti-kickback pawls. The guard, riving knife, and anti-
kickback pawls help to reduce the risk of injury.
Make sure the saw blade is not contacting the guard, riving knife or the
workpiece before the switch is turned on. Inadvertent contact of these items
with the saw blade could cause a hazardous condition.
Adjust the riving knife as described in the instruction manual. Incorrect
spacing, positioning and alignment can make the riving knife ineffective in
reducing the likelihood of kickback.
For the riving knife and anti-kickback pawls to work, they must be engaged in
the workpiece. The riving knife and anti-kickback pawls are ineffective when
cutting workpieces that are too short to be engaged with the riving knife and
anti-kickback pawls. Under these conditions a kickback cannot be prevented by
the riving knife and anti-kickback pawls.
Use the appropriate saw blade for the riving knife. For the riving knife to
function properly, the saw blade diameter must match the appropriate riving
knife and the body of the saw blade must be thinner than the thickness of the
riving knife and the cutting width of the saw blade must be wider than the
thickness of the riving knife.
CUTTING PROCEDURES
DANGER: Never place your fingers or hands in the vicinity or in line with the
saw blade. A moment of inattention or a slip could direct your hand towards
the saw blade and result in serious personal injury.
Feed the workpiece into the saw blade against the direction of rotation.
Feeding the workpiece in the same direction that the saw blade is rotating
above the table may result in the workpiece, and your hand, being pulled into
the saw blade.
Never use the miter gauge to feed the workpiece when ripping and do not use
the rip fence as a length stop when cross cutting with the miter gauge.
Guiding the workpiece with the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time
increases the likelihood of saw blade binding and kickback.
When ripping, always apply the workpiece feeding force between the fence and
the saw blade. Use a push stick when the distance between the fence and the
saw blade is less than 150 mm, and use a push block when this distance is less
than 50 mm. “Work helping” devices will keep your hand at a safe distance from
the saw blade.
Use only the push stick provided by the manufacturer or constructed in
accordance with the instructions. This push stick provides sufficient distance
of the hand from the saw blade.
Never use a damaged or cut push stick. A damaged push stick may break causing
your hand to slip into the saw blade.
Do not perform any operation “freehand”. Always use either the rip fence or
the miter gauge to position and guide the workpiece. “Freehand” means using
your hands to support or guide the workpiece, in lieu of a rip fence or miter
gauge. Freehand sawing leads to misalignment, binding and kickback.
Never reach around or over a rotating saw blade. Reaching for a workpiece may
lead to accidental contact with the moving saw blade.
3 – English
TABLE SAW SAFETY RULES
Provide auxiliary workpiece support to the rear and/or sides of the saw table
for long and/or wide workpieces to keep them level. A long and/or wide
workpiece has a tendency to pivot on the table’s edge, causing loss of
control, saw blade binding and kickback.
Feed workpiece at an even pace. Do not bend or twist the workpiece. If jamming
occurs, turn the tool off immediately, unplug the tool then clear the jam.
Jamming the saw blade by the workpiece can cause kickback or stall the motor.
Do not remove pieces of cut-off material while the saw is running. The
material may become trapped between the fence or inside the saw blade guard
and the saw blade pulling your fingers into the saw blade. Turn the saw off
and wait until the saw blade stops before removing material.
Use an auxiliary fence in contact with the table top when ripping workpieces
less than 2 mm thick. A thin workpiece may wedge under the rip fence and
create a kickback.
KICKBACK
Kickback is a sudden reaction of the workpiece due to a pinched, jammed saw
blade or misaligned line of cut in the workpiece with respect to the saw blade
or when a part of the workpiece binds between the saw blade and the rip fence
or other fixed object.
Most frequently during kickback, the workpiece is lifted from the table by the
rear portion of the saw blade and is propelled towards the operator.
Kickback is the result of saw misuse and/or incorrect operating procedures or
conditions and can be avoided by taking proper precautions as given below.
Use extra caution when making a cut into blind areas of assembled workpieces.
The protruding saw blade may cut objects that can cause kickback.
Support large panels to minimize the risk of saw blade pinching and kickback.
Large panels tend to sag under their own weight. Support(s) must be placed
under all portions of the panel overhanging the table top.
Use extra caution when cutting a workpiece that is twisted, knotted, warped or
does not have a straight edge to guide it with a miter gauge or along the
fence. A warped, knotted, or twisted workpiece is unstable and causes
misalignment of the kerf with the saw blade, binding and kickback.
Never cut more than one workpiece, stacked vertically or horizontally. The saw
blade could pick up one or more pieces and cause kickback.
When restarting the saw with the saw blade in the workpiece, centre the saw
blade in the kerf so that the saw teeth are not engaged in the material. If
the saw blade binds, it may lift up the workpiece and cause kickback when the
saw is restarted.
Keep saw blades clean, sharp, and with sufficient set. Never use warped saw
blades or saw blades with cracked or broken teeth. Sharp and properly set saw
blades minimise binding, stalling and kickback.
TABLE SAW OPERATION Turn off the table saw and disconnect the power
cord when removing the throat plate, changing the saw blade or making
adjustments to the riving knife, anti-kickback pawls or blade guard, and when
the machine is left unattended. Precautionary measures will avoid accidents.
Never stand directly in line with the saw blade. Always position your body on
the same side of the saw blade as the fence. Kickback may propel the workpiece
at high velocity towards anyone standing in front and in line with the saw
blade.
Never reach over or in back of the saw blade to pull or to support the
workpiece. Accidental contact with the saw blade may occur or kickback may
drag your fingers into the saw blade.
Never leave the table saw running unattended. Turn it off and don’t leave the
tool until it comes to a complete stop. An unattended running saw is an
uncontrolled hazard.
Locate the table saw in a well-lit and level area where you can maintain good
footing and balance. It should be installed in an area that provides enough
room to easily handle the size of your workpiece. Cramped, dark areas, and
uneven slippery floors invite accidents.
Never hold and press the workpiece that is being cut off against the rotating
saw blade. Pressing the workpiece being cut off against the saw blade will
create a binding condition and kickback.
Align the fence to be parallel with the saw blade. A misaligned fence will
pinch the workpiece against the saw blade and create kickback.
Use a featherboard to guide the workpiece against the table and fence when
making non-through cuts such as rabbeting, dadoing or resawing cuts. A
featherboard helps to control the workpiece in the event of a kickback.
Frequently clean and remove sawdust from under the saw table and/or the dust
collection device. Accumulated sawdust is combustible and may self-ignite.
The table saw must be secured. A table saw that is not properly secured may
move or tip over.
Remove tools, wood scraps, etc. from the table before the table saw is turned
on. Distraction or a potential jam can be dangerous.
Always use saw blades with correct size and shape (diamond versus round) of
arbour holes. Saw blades that do not match the mounting hardware of the saw
will run off-centre, causing loss of control.
4 – English
TABLE SAW SAFETY RULES
Never use damaged or incorrect saw blade mounting means such as flanges, saw
blade washers, bolts or nuts. These mounting means were specially designed for
your saw, for safe operation and optimum performance.
Never stand on the table saw, do not use it as a stepping stool. Serious
injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is
accidentally contacted.
Make sure that the saw blade is installed to rotate in the proper direction. Do not use grinding wheels, wire brushes, or abrasive wheels on a table saw. Improper saw blade installation or use of accessories not recommended may cause serious injury.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES
Know your power tool. Read the operator’s manual carefully. Learn the saw’s
applications and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards related
to this tool.
Make workshop childproof with padlocks and master switches, or by removing
starter keys.
Use the proper extension cord. Make sure your extension cord is in good
condition. Use only a cord heavy enough to carry the current your product will
draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss
of power and overheating. A wire gauge size (A.W.G.) of at least 14 is
recommended for an extension cord 25 feet or less in length. If in doubt, use
the next heavier gauge. The smaller the gauge number, the heavier the cord.
Always wear eye protection with side shields marked to comply with ANSI Z87.1.
Failure to do so could result in objects being thrown into your eyes,
resulting in possible serious injury.
Secure work. Use clamps or a vise to hold work when practical. It’s safer than
using your hand and frees both hands to operate tool.
Use recommended accessories. Consult the operator’s manual for recommended
accessories. The use of improper accessories may risk injury.
Use only correct blades. Do not use blades with incorrect size holes. Never
use blade washers or blade bolts that are defective or incorrect. The maximum
blade capacity of your saw is 10 in. (254 mm).
Check damaged parts. Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part
that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate
properly and perform its intended function. Check for alignment of moving
parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting and any other
conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is
damaged must be properly repaired or replaced by an authorized service center
to avoid risk of personal injury.
Never leave tool running unattended. Turn the power off. Don’t leave tool
until it comes to a complete stop.
Protect your lungs. Wear a face or dust mask if the cutting operation is
dusty.
Protect your hearing. Wear hearing protection during extended periods of
operation.
When operating a power tool outside, use an outdoor extension cord marked
“W-A” or “W”. These cords are rated for outdoor use and reduce the risk of
electric shock.
Always keep the blade guard and riving knife (splitter) in place and in
working order.
Keep hands away from cutting area. Keep hands away from blades. Do not reach
underneath work or around or over the blade while blade is rotating. Do not
attempt to remove cut material when blade is moving.
Avoid awkward operations and hand positions where a sudden slip could cause
your hand to move into the blade.
Do not reach behind the blade with either hand from either side of the saw
blade, to support the workpiece, remove wood scraps, or for any other reason
while the blade is spinning.
The table saw must be mounted to a firm supporting surface, such as a
workbench or leg stand that positions the saw at waist height. In addition,
provide adequate support such as auxiliary tables, roller support tables,
outfeed supports, etc. when cutting heavy, wide, or long. Heavy, wide, or long
workpieces can tip if not securely supported. If the cut-off piece or
workpiece tips, it can lift the blade guard or be thrown by the spinning
blade.
If the workpiece or blade becomes jammed, turn the table saw off. Wait for all
moving parts to stop and disconnect the plug from the power source. Then work
to free the jammed material. After the material is removed, verify that the
blade is parallel to the miter gauge groove, and the riving knife and blade
are aligned. If the jam occurred during a rip cut, verify that the rip fence
is parallel to the blade. Adjust if necessary.
5 – English
SYMBOLS
The following signal words and meanings are intended to explain the levels of risk associated with this product.
SYMBOL SIGNAL
MEANING
DANGER:
Indicates a hazardous situation, which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury.
WARNING:
Indicates a hazardous situation, which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury.
CAUTION:
Indicates a hazardous situation, that, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury.
NOTICE:
(Without Safety Alert Symbol) Indicates information considered important, but not related to a potential injury (e.g. messages relating to property damage).
Some of the following symbols may be used on this tool. Please study them and learn their meaning. Proper interpretation of these symbols will allow you to operate the tool better and safer.
SYMBOL
NAME
DESIGNATION/EXPLANATION
Safety Alert
Indicates a potential personal injury hazard.
Read Operator’s Manual
To reduce the risk of injury, user must read and understand operator’s manual before using this product.
Eye Protection
Always wear eye protection with side shields marked to comply with ANSI Z87.1.
No Hands Symbol
Failure to keep your hands away from the blade will result in serious personal injury.
Wet Conditions Alert
Do not expose to rain or use in damp locations.
V A Hz min
no
…/min
Volts Amperes Hertz Minutes Alternating Current No Load Speed Class II Construction Per Minute
Voltage Current Frequency (cycles per second) Time Type of current Rotational speed, at no load Double-insulated construction Revolutions, strokes, surface speed, orbits, etc., per minute 6 – English
ELECTRICAL
DOUBLE INSULATION
Double insulation is a concept in safety in electric power tools, which
eliminates the need for the usual three-wire grounded power cord. All exposed
metal parts are isolated from the internal metal motor components with
protecting insulation. Double insulated tools do not need to be grounded.
WARNING:
The double insulated system is intended to protect the user from shock
resulting from a break in the tool’s internal wiring. Observe all normal
safety precautions to avoid electrical shock.
NOTE: Servicing of a product with double insulation requires extreme care and
knowledge of the system and should be performed only by a qualified service
technician. For service, we suggest you return the tool to your nearest
authorized service center for repair. Always use original factory replacement
parts when servicing.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
This tool has a precision-built electric motor. It should be connected to a
power supply that is 120 V, AC only (normal household current), 60 Hz. Do not
operate this tool on direct current (DC). A substantial voltage drop will
cause a loss of power and the motor will overheat. If the tool does not
operate when plugged into an outlet, double check the power supply.
POLARIZED PLUGS
See Figure 1.
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this tool has a polarized plug (one
blade is wider than the other). This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only
one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it
still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not change the plug in any way.
EXTENSION CORDS
When using a power tool at a considerable distance from a power source, be
sure to use an extension cord that has the capacity to handle the current the
product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage,
resulting in overheating and loss of power. Use the chart to determine the
minimum wire size required in an extension cord. Only round jacketed cords
listed by Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) should be used.
When working outdoors with a product, use an extension cord that is designed
for outside use. This type of cord is designated with “WA” or “W” on the
cord’s jacket.
Before using any extension cord, inspect it for loose or exposed wires and cut
or worn insulation.
**Ampere rating (on tool faceplate)
0-2.0 2.1-3.4 3.5-5.0 5.1-7.0 7.1-12.0 12.1-16.0
Cord Length
Wire Size (A.W.G.)
25′
16 16 16 16 14 14
50′
16 16 16 14 14 12
100′
16 16 14 12 10 —
**Used on 12 gauge – 20 amp circuit. NOTE: AWG = American Wire Gauge
WARNING:
Keep the extension cord clear of the working area. Position the cord so that
it will not get caught on lumber, tools or other obstructions while you are
working with a power tool. Failure to do so can result in serious personal
injury.
WARNING:
Check extension cords before each use. If damaged replace immediately. Never
use product with a damaged cord since touching the damaged area could cause
electrical shock resulting in serious injury.
POLARIZED PLUG
Fig. 1
7 – English
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Anti-Kickback Pawls (radial arm and table saws)
Pilot Hole (drill presses and scroll saws)
A device which, when properly installed and maintained, is designed to stop the workpiece from being kicked back toward the front of the saw during a ripping operation.
A small hole drilled in a workpiece that serves as a guide for drilling large holes accurately or for insertion of a scroll saw blade.
Arbor
Push Blocks (jointer planers)
The shaft on which a blade or cutting tool is mounted. Bevel Cut A cutting operation made with the blade at any angle other than 90° to the table surface. Chamfer A cut removing a wedge from a block so the end (or part of the end) is angled rather than at 90°. Compound Cut A cross cut made with both a miter and a bevel angle. Cross Cut A cutting or shaping operation made across the grain or the width of the workpiece. Cutter Head (planers and jointer planers) A rotating cutterhead with adjustable blades or knives. The blades or knives remove material from the workpiece. Dado Cut (table saws and compound sliding miter saws) A non-through cut which produces a square, three- sided notch or trough in the workpiece. Featherboard (table saws) A device used to help control the workpiece by guiding it securely against the table or fence during any ripping operation. FPM or SPM Feet per minute (or strokes per minute), used in reference to blade movement. Freehand Performing a cut without the workpiece being guided by a fence, miter fence, or other aids. Gum A sticky, sap-based residue from wood products. Heel Alignment of the blade to the miter gauge groove. Kerf The material removed by the blade in a through cut or the slot produced by the blade in a non-through or partial cut. Kickback A hazard that can occur when the blade binds or stalls, throwing the workpiece in the direction of the spinning blade. Miter Cut A cutting operation made with the workpiece at any angle to the blade other than 90°. Non-Through Cuts (table saws and compound sliding miter saws) Any cutting operation where the blade does not extend completely through the thickness of the workpiece. This is a cut where the blade will not cut the workpiece into two pieces.
Device used to feed the workpiece over the jointer planer cutterhead during any operation. This aid helps keep the operator’s hands well away from the cutterhead. Push Blocks and Push Sticks (table saws) Devices used to feed the workpiece through the saw blade during cutting operations. When making a narrow rip cut without a jig or similar cutting aid, always use a push stick (not a push block). A push block can be used for narrow ripping operations, if a jig or similar cutting aid is used. These aids help keep the operator’s hands well away from the blade. Rabbet A non-through cut positioned on the end or edge of the workpiece which produces a square, two-sided notch or trough in the workpiece. Resaw (table saws and band saws) A cutting operation to reduce the thickness of the workpiece to make thinner pieces. Resin A sticky, sap- based substance that has hardened. Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) The number of turns completed by a spinning object in one minute. Ripping or Rip Cut (table saws) A cutting operation along the length of the workpiece and typically in the direction of the grain. Riving Knife/Spreader/Splitter (table saws) A metal piece, slightly thinner than the blade, which helps keep the kerf open and also helps to prevent kickback. Saw Blade Path The area over, under, behind, or in front of the blade. As it applies to the workpiece, that area which will be or has been cut by the blade. Snipe (planers) Depression made at either end of a workpiece by cutter blades when the workpiece is not properly supported. Taper Cut A cut where the material being cut has a different width at the beginning of the cut from the end. Through Sawing Any cutting operation where the blade extends completely through the thickness of the workpiece. This type of cut will separate a single workpiece into two pieces. Workpiece or Material The item on which the operation is being done. Worktable Surface where the workpiece rests while performing a cutting, drilling, planing, or sanding operation.
8 – English
FEATURES
PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS
Blade Arbor …………………………………………………….. 5/8 in. Blade Diameter………………………………………………….
10 in. Blade Tilt ……………………………………………………….. 0° – 45° Dado
Capacity…………………………………………………. 1/2 in. Rating ………………………………………..120 V, AC only,
60 Hz
Input ……………………………………………………………15 Amps
No Load Speed ………………………………… 5,000/min (RPM) Cutting Depth at 0°
……………………………………………… 3 in. Cutting Depth at 45° ……………………………………….2-1/2 in.
RIP SCALE INDICATOR FRONT RAIL
CORD WRAP
BLADE GUARD
ANTI-KICKBACK
PAWLS
RIVING
KNIFE
MITER GAUGE GROOVE
RIP FENCE LOW FENCE
RIP SCALE
SWITCH ASSEMBLY
HEIGHT / BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER
BEVEL INDICATOR
LOCKING LEVER
BEVEL SCALE
SLIDING TABLE EXTENSION
STAND LATCH
MITER GAUGE
9 – English
Fig. 2
FEATURES
DUST CHUTE
BLADE GUARD STORAGE AREA
MITER GAUGE STORAGE AREA PUSH STICK, RIVING KNIFE, AND BLADE WRENCH STORAGE AREA
RIP FENCE STORAGE AREA
Fig. 3
KNOW YOUR TABLE SAW
See Figure 2 – 3.
BLADE – For maximum performance, it is recommended that you use the 10 in. carbide tipped combination blade provided
The safe use of this product requires an understanding of the information on
the tool and in this operator’s manual as well as a knowledge of the project
you are attempting. Before use of this product, familiarize yourself with all
operating features and safety rules.
ACCESSORY STORAGE – Convenient storage areas for the push stick, riving knife,
wrenches, blade guard, miter
with the saw. The blade is raised and lowered with the height/ bevel adjusting
handwheel. Bevel angles are locked with the bevel locking lever. Additional
blade styles of the same high quality are available for specific operations
such as ripping. Your local dealer can provide you with complete information.
Blade kerf width must be within the limits stamped on the riving knife.
gauge, and rip fence are located underneath the saw table.
ANTI-KICKBACK PAWLS – Kickback is a hazard in which
WARNING:
the workpiece is thrown back toward the operator. The teeth on the anti- kickback pawls point away from the workpiece. If the workpiece should be pulled back toward the opera-
Do not use blades rated less than the speed of this tool. Failure to heed this warning could result in personal injury.
tor, the teeth dig into the wood to help prevent or reduce the possibility of
kickback. The anti-kickback pawls may be bypassed.
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER – This lever, located just under the saw table surface on
the front of the saw, locks the angle setting of the blade.
BEVEL SCALE – The easy-to-read scale on the front of the saw shows the exact
blade angle.
BLADE GUARD – Always keep the removable blade guard down over the saw blade
for through-sawing cuts.
DUST CHUTE – The built-in dust chute makes it easy to dispose of sawdust. A
vacuum hose may be attached to the dust chute.
ELECTRIC BRAKE – An electric brake has been provided to stop blade rotation
after the saw is turned off.
10 – English
FEATURES
HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL – Located on the front of the saw, use this
handwheel to lower and raise the blade for height adjustments or blade
replacement. This handwheel also makes the adjustment for bevel angles easy.
MITER GAUGE – The miter gauge aligns the wood for a cross cut. The easy-to-
read indicator shows the exact angle for a miter cut.
MITER GAUGE GROOVE – The miter gauge rides in the groove on the saw table.
OUTFEED SUPPORT – This table extension at the back of the tool gives the
operator additional support when cutting long workpieces.
RIP FENCE – A sturdy metal fence guides the workpiece and is secured with the
locking handle.
NOTE: Do not place the rip fence on the left side of the blade when cutting
material greater than 3/4 inches thick.
RIP SCALE – Located on the front rail, the easy-to-read rip scale provides
precise measurements for rip cuts.
RIVING KNIFE – A removable metal piece of the blade guard assembly, slightly
thinner than the saw blade, which helps keep the kerf open and prevent
kickback. When in the through sawing, or “up” position, it is higher than the
saw blade. When in the non-through sawing, or “down” position, it is below the
saw blade teeth.
SLIDING TABLE EXTENSION – Located on the right side of the saw table, this
table extension gives the operator additional support when cutting wide
workpieces.
SWITCH ASSEMBLY – This saw has an easy access switch assembly located below
the front rail. To lock the switch, install a padlock (not included) through
the holes in the switch and cover. Make certain the switch is inoperable. If
the switch is still operable with the padlock installed, a padlock with a
larger shackle diameter must be used. Store the padlock key in another
location.
OPERATING COMPONENTS
The upper portion of the blade projects up through the table and is surrounded
by an insert called the throat plate. The height of the blade is set with a
handwheel on the front of the saw. Detailed instructions are provided in the
Operation section of this manual for the basic cuts: cross cuts, miter cuts,
bevel cuts, and compound cuts.
The rip fence is used to position work for lengthwise cuts. A scale on the
front rail shows the distance between the rip fence and the blade.
It is very important to use the blade guard assembly for all through-sawing
operations. The blade guard assembly includes: riving knife and blade guard
with anti-kickback pawls.
SWITCH ASSEMBLY
See Figure 4.
This saw is equipped with an on/off switch that has a built-in locking
feature. This feature is intended to prevent unauthorized and possible
hazardous use by children and others.
NOTE: The switch cover does not have to be raised to operate the switch.
TO TURN THE SAW ON: Press the top button on the switch to turn the saw on.
NOTE: If AC power is disconnected or interrupted while the saw is running, the
saw will turn off. To restart the saw, restore AC power and press the top of
the switch.
TO TURN THE SAW OFF: Press the bottom button on the switch to turn the saw
off.
TO LOCK THE SAW: With the saw turned off, install a padlock (not included)
through the holes in the switch and switch cover.
WARNING:
ALWAYS make sure your workpiece is not in contact with the blade before
operating the switch to start the tool. Failure to heed this warning may cause
the workpiece to be kicked back toward the operator and result in serious
personal injury.
WARNING:
To reduce the risk of accidental starting, always make sure the top button on
the switch is not depressed before plugging tool into the power source.
SWITCH ON
SWITCH OFF
SWITCH IN LOCKED POSITION
Fig. 4
11 – English
TOOLS NEEDED
The following tools (not included or drawn to scale) are needed for assembly and making adjustments:
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER
FRAMING SQUARE
8 mm and 13 mm WRENCH FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER
COMBINATION SQUARE
SOCKET WRENCH, 13 mm AND 8 mm
SOCKETS
C-CLAMPS
Fig. 5
12 – English
LOOSE PARTS
The following items are included with your table saw: E M
I
N
J K
H W
L
O
P
F G
Q R
C
S D
B T
A UV
Fig. 6
A. Front Stand Leg (“A”) …………………………………………………1 B. Rear Stand Leg (“B”)………………………………………………….1 C. Front Stand Leg (“C”)…………………………………………………1 D. Rear Stand Leg (“D”)………………………………………………….1 E. Blade Guard with Anti-Kickback Pawls ………………………..1 F. Push Stick ………………………………………………………………..1 G. Miter Gauge (In Storage Area) …………………………………….1 H. Rip Fence …………………………………………………………………1 I. Open End Blade Wrench (In Storage Area)……………………1 J. Closed End Blade Wrench (In Storage Area) …………………1 K. Hex Key (5 mm)…………………………………………………………1 L. Sliding Table Assembly ………………………………………………1
M. Stop Screw ………………………………………………………………1 N. Rip Indicator End Cap………………………………………………..1 O. Indicator …………………………………………………………………..1 P. Screw (M4 x 25 mm, Truss Hd.) …………………………………..1 Q. Bolt (M5 x 35 mm)……………………………………………………..4 R. Lock Nut (M5)……………………………………………………………4 S. Crosspiece ……………………………………………………………….1 T. Wheel ………………………………………………………………………2 U. Washer (OD16 x ID8 x 2t)……………………………………………4 V. Lock Nut (M8)……………………………………………………………4 W. Self-tapping Screw ……………………………………………………4
13 – English
ASSEMBLY
UNPACKING
This product requires assembly. Carefully lift saw from the carton and place
it on a level
work surface. NOTE: This tool is heavy. To avoid back injury, keep your knees
bent and lift with your legs, not your back, and get help when needed.
WARNING:
Do not use this product if any parts on the Loose Parts list are already
assembled to your product when you unpack it. Parts on this list are not
assembled to the product by the manufacturer and require customer
installation. Use of a product that may have been improperly assembled could
result in serious personal injury.
Inspect the tool carefully to make sure no breakage or damage occurred during
shipping.
Do not discard the packing material until you have carefully inspected the
tool, identified all loose parts, and satisfactorily operated the tool. NOTE:
Remove the foam block from between the saw’s table and the motor by first
beveling the blade, refer to To Change Blade Angle (Bevel) in the Operation
section of this manual.
The saw is factory set for accurate cutting. After assembling it, check for
accuracy. If shipping has influenced the settings, refer to specific
procedures explained in this manual.
If any parts are damaged or missing, please call
1-800-525-2579 for assistance.
WARNING:
If any parts are damaged or missing, do not operate this tool until the parts
are replaced. Use of this with damaged or missing parts could result in
serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Do not attempt to modify this tool or create accessories not recommended for
use with this tool. Any such alteration or modification is misuse and could
result in a hazardous condition leading to possible serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Do not connect to power supply until assembly is complete. Failure to comply
could result in accidental starting and possible serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Do not lift the saw without help. Hold it close to your body. Keep your knees
bent and lift with your legs, not your back. Ignoring these precautions can
result in back injury.
WARNING:
Never stand directly in line with the blade or allow hands to come closer than
3 in. to the blade. Do not reach over or across the blade. Failure to heed
this warning can result in serious personal injury.
WARNING:
To avoid serious personal injury, always make sure the table saw is securely
mounted to a workbench or an approved leg stand. NEVER operate the saw on the
floor.
MOUNTING HOLES
The table saw must be mounted to a firm supporting surface such as a workbench
or leg stand. Four bolt holes have been provided in the saw’s frame for this
purpose. To mount the saw to a work bench, insert bolts that are of sufficient
length to accommodate the saw base, lock washers, hex nuts, and the thickness
of the workbench or other mounting surface. Tighten all bolts or screws
securely. Carefully check the workbench after mounting to make sure that no
movement can occur during use. If any tipping, sliding, or walking is noted,
secure the workbench to the floor before operating. To mount the saw to the
leg stand, refer to specific procedures explained later in this section.
14 – English
ASSEMBLY
UNFOLDING THE STAND SUPPORTS
See Figure 7.
NOTE: Do not use this leg stand with other equipment or for other purposes.
NOTE: During shipping, the foam block between the saw’s housing and motor
holds the stand leg bolts in place. Remove the foam block before assembling
the stand, making sure the bolts remain in place. Place the saw on a flat
surface with the underside of the
saw facing up. Cut the zip tie that holds the support brackets together. Fold
out the stand. Use the latch to secure the free end
of the support bracket to the frame of the saw.
INSTALLING STAND LEGS
See Figure 8 – 9.
Many of the leg stand parts are movable. All hardware must be tightened
securely but not so tight that the leg stand won’t open and close. For easier
assembly, match letter to letter, then install hardware.
Locate the following parts:
Stand leg…………………………………………………………… 4 Lock Nut (M8) ……………………………………………………. 2 Self-
tapping Screw …………………………………………….. 4 Assemble each side separately. Install all
legs with feet pointing outward. Carefully remove the bolt from the support
bracket while holding the pivot plate in place. Set the bolt aside. Insert
front stand leg labeled “A” into the end tube of the outer stand support
bracket labeled “A” and insert the front stand leg labeled “C” into the end
tube of the inner stand support bracket labeled “C”. Repeat with rear stand
legs labeled “B” and “D”. Align the hardware holes of the support brackets,
legs and pivot plates. Insert the bolt through all pieces and secure
with a lock nut. Tighten the nut using a 13 mm wrench. Then loosen nut
slightly to allow legs to pivot freely. NOTE: Do not overtighten as this will
not allow the stand to move freely.
LETTERS
FRONT STAND LEG (“A”)
FRONT STAND LEG (“D”)
HOLES
LOCK NUT
BOLT
PIVOT PLATE
LATCH
Fig. 7
INNER STAND SUPPORT BRACKET
15 – English
OUTER STAND SUPPORT BRACKET
Fig. 8
ASSEMBLY
Locate the screw holes in the legs, near the pivot plates. Using a Phillips
screwdriver, insert self-tapping screws
through each of the holes.
INSTALLING THE CROSSPIECE
See Figure 10. Locate the following parts:
Lock Nut (M5) ……………………………………………………. 4 Bolt (M5 x 35 mm) ……………………………………………… 4
Crosspiece………………………………………………………… 1 Place the crosspiece in position as shown,
aligning the holes in the crosspiece with the holes in the lower part of the
stand. Slide each of the four bolts through the holes in the crosspiece and
the holes in the legs. Place a lock nut over each bolt. Securely tighten the
nut using an 8 mm wrench and socket.
INSTALLING WHEELS ONTO THE STAND
See Figure 11. Locate the following parts:
Wheel ……………………………………………………………..2 Washer (OD16 x ID8 x 2t) …………………………………..4
Lock Nut (M8) …………………………………………………..2 Slide a washer, a wheel, and another
washer onto each axle. Thread a lock nut onto the axle and securely tighten,
using a 13 mm wrench.
SELFTAPPING SCREW
CROSSPIECE
BOLT
LOCK NUT
INNER STAND SUPPORT BRACKET
OUTER STAND SUPPORT BRACKET
AXLE WASHER
Fig. 10 WASHER
PIVOT PLATE
SELFTAPPING SCREW
SELFTAPPING SCREW
Fig. 9 16 – English
WHEEL
LOCK NUT Fig. 11
ASSEMBLY
INSTALLING THE SLIDING TABLE EXTENSION
See Figures 12 – 14.
Locate the following parts:
Sliding Table Extension……………………………………….. 1 Stop Screw ………………………………………………………..
1 Screw (M4 x 25 mm, Truss Hd.)……………………………. 1
Indicator……………………………………………………………. 1 Rip Indicator End Cap ………………………………………… 1
Handle End Cap…………………………………………………. 1
To install sliding table extension: Unlock the front and back table locking
levers on the
sliding table extension. Insert sliding table extension into table locking
levers. Push the sliding table extension until it rests against the
saw table and is completely closed. Install the stop screw into hole on the
bottom of the rear
extension rod to hold sliding table extension into locking levers. Lock the
front and back table locking levers.
To install indicator: Press the end cap over the front extension rod (see
figure 13). Slip the indicator thru the slot in the front rail of the table
and into the rip indicator end cap. Fit the top slot in the indicator over the
detent on the end
plug and the bottom slot over the screw hole on the end cap.
TABLE LOCKING
LEVER
STOP SCREW
Insert a screw into the bottom slot of the indicator, the hole in the end cap
and the extension rod.
Align the indicator to the 17 in. mark.Tighten securely, but do not
overtighten. Overtightening may crush extension rod ends.
RIP INDICATOR END CAP SCREW
EXTENSION ROD DETENT
17 in. MARK
INDICATOR Fig. 13
INDICATOR
SLIDING TABLE
EXTENSION
REAR
EXTENSION ROD
Fig. 12 17 – English
Fig. 14
ASSEMBLY
TO OPEN/CLOSE (SET-UP/TEAR DOWN) THE LEG STAND
See Figure 15.
NOTE: Use the cord wrap on the end of the saw to keep the cord out of the way
when setting up or tearing down the saw.
To open (set-up) the leg stand:
Step 1: Stand the saw on the wheeled end. Open the latch and unhook it from
the crosspiece. Lay the leg sections flat.
Step 2: Grasp the inner stand support bracket and lift it until it meets the
saw frame. Hook the latch over the inner stand support bracket and push down
until the latch locks.
Step 3: Make sure the table extension is in the locked position. Set your
right foot against the saw leg to steady it while you push downward on the top
leg and lift the saw frame to set the saw upright.
To close (tear down) the leg stand:
Step 1: Standing to the side of the table saw, place your foot against the
foot of the saw. Hold the saw table and grasp the upper saw leg. Make sure the
table extension is in the locked position. Tilt the saw to your left and lower
the saw to the floor until it is balanced on end.
Step 2: Open and release the latch. Allow both leg sections to lie flat.
Step 3: Grasp the crosspiece and lift both leg sections so that the crosspiece
meets the latch. Hook the latch into the crosspiece and push the latch back
until it locks.
SET-UP
TEAR-DOWN
18 – English
Fig. 15
ASSEMBLY
REMOVING/REINSTALLING THE THROAT
PLATE
See Figure 16 – 17.
LOCK
WARNING:
If the throat plate is too high or too low, the workpiece can catch on the
uneven edges resulting in binding or kickback which could result in serious
personal injury. Verify the throat plate is correctly seated. Before turning
on the saw, perform a dry run of the cutting operation to make sure that no
problems will occur when the cut is made. If the workpiece catches, do not
attempt to use the saw. Contact customer service for assistance.
Lower the blade by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel
counterclockwise.
To remove the throat plate, rotate the knob to the unlocked position. Place
your index finger into the hole, lift and pull the throat plate out toward the
front of the saw.
To reinstall the throat plate, rotate the knob to the unlocked position. Place
throat plate back onto the saw and rotate the knob to the locked position.
NOTE: The throat plate may move up and down over time. If necessary, use a
Phillips screwdriver to adjust the screws located under the throat plate until
it is level with the saw table.
UNLOCK SCREW
THROAT PLATE KNOB HOLE
Fig. 16
SCREW
Fig. 17
19 – English
ASSEMBLY
CHANGING RIVING KNIFE POSITIONS
See Figure 18.
This saw is shipped with a riving knife that should be placed in the “down”
position for non-through cutting and must be placed in the “up” position for
all other cutting operations.
RELEASE LEVER
(UNLOCKED)
CAUTION:
Use caution when reaching inside the throat in the saw table. Blade contact,
even when the blade is still, may result in injury to hands or arms.
Unplug the saw.
To place in the “up” position for all through cutting: Remove the throat
plate. Raise the saw blade by turning the height/bevel adjusting
handwheel clockwise. Unlock the release lever by pulling it up. Grasp the
riving knife and pull it towards the right side of
the saw to release the riving knife from the spring-loaded riving clamp. Pull
the riving knife up until the internal pins are engaged and the riving knife
is above the saw blade. Lock the release lever by pushing the lever down.
IN “UP” POSITION FOR THROUGH CUTTING
WARNING:
Make sure the release lever is fully seated. If the release lever is difficult
to lock, thoroughly clean lever components using compressed air or a clean
soft cloth as described in the Cleaning the Riving Knife Lock Lever Plates
section in Maintenance. Failure to completely lock the release lever can allow
the riving knife to change position during saw use, which could result in
serious personaly injury.
Reinstall the throat plate.
To place in the “down” position for all non-through cutting: Remove the throat
plate. Raise the saw blade by turning the height/bevel adjusting
handwheel clockwise. Unlock the release lever by pulling it up.
RELEASE LEVER (LOCKED)
IN “DOWN” POSITION FOR NON-THROUGH CUTTING
Fig. 18
Grasp the riving knife and pull it towards the right side of the saw to
release the riving knife from the spring-loaded riving clamp.
Push the riving knife down until it is below the saw blade. Lock the release
lever by pushing the lever down. Reinstall the throat plate.
20 – English
ASSEMBLY
CHECKING SAW BLADE INSTALLATION
See Figure 19.
NOTICE:
To work properly, the saw blade teeth must point down toward the front of the
saw. Failure to heed this warning could cause damage to the saw blade, the
saw, or the workpiece.
Unplug the saw. Remove the blade wrench from the blade wrench storage
area. Lower the saw blade and remove the throat plate. Raise the saw blade to
its full height by turning the height/
bevel adjusting handwheel clockwise. Make sure the bevel locking lever is
locked. (See figure 38.) Place riving knife in the “up” position.
To loosen the blade: Place the flat open end of the open end blade wrench on
the flats on the arbor shaft. Insert the closed end blade wrench over the
blade nut.
Holding both wrenches firmly, pull the closed end wrench forward to the front
of the machine.
NOTE: Arbor shaft has right-hand threads.
To tighten the blade: Place the flat open end of the open end blade wrench on
the flats on the arbor shaft. Insert the closed end blade wrench over the
blade nut.
Holding both wrenches firmly, push the closed end wrench to the back of the
machine. Make sure the blade nut is securely tightened. Do not overtighten.
NOTE: Arbor shaft has right-hand threads.
Reinstall the throat plate.
Check all clearances for free blade rotation.
After installation, adjust the rip scale indicator to account for the kerf and
thickness of the blade. Refer to To Set the Rip Fence Scale Indicator to the
Blade in the Operation section of this manual. In cutting operations, the
scale will be set to the side of the blade where the cut will be measured and
made.
CLOSED END BLADE WRENCH
OPEN END BLADE WRENCH
BLADE NUT
Fig. 19
21 – English
ASSEMBLY
INSTALLING THE BLADE GUARD
See Figures 20 – 21.
WARNING:
Always install the blade guard onto the riving knife in the “up” position to
provide proper blade coverage. Installing the guarding components onto the
riving knife in any other position will prevent them from working as designed,
which could increase the risk of serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Replace the blade guard if the anti-kickback pawls are dull or damaged. Dull
or damaged pawls may not stop a kickback increasing the risk of serious
personal injury.
Anti-kickback pawls are part of the blade guard for this saw. They should only
be used for through cuts. When not needed, they may be positioned to be out of
the way. Unplug the saw. Raise the saw blade by turning the height/bevel
adjusting
handwheel clockwise. Place riving knife in “up” position. Reinstall the throat
plate.
To install blade guard: Lift the guard lever up to unlock. With the front of
the blade guard raised, lower the back
of the guard into the riving knife in the position shown. Push the front of
the guard down until the bar inside the guard is parallel to the table (see
figure 20). If the bar is not parallel to the table, the riving knife is not
in the “up” position. Lock the guard in place by pushing the guard lever down.
The blade guard side barriers may be lifted, then positioned out of the way
without being removed for easier measurement.
NOTE: Blade alignment can be adjusted for different kerf widths. Refer to: To
Check and Align the Riving Knife and Saw Blade. Check the blade guard assembly
for clearances and free movement.
BLADE GUARD
ANTI-KICKBACK PAWLS
GUARD LEVER
Fig. 20 CORRECT
22 – English
INCORRECT
Fig. 21
ASSEMBLY
TO CHECK AND ALIGN THE RIVING KNIFE AND SAW BLADE
See Figures 22 – 23.
To check alignment of the riving knife: Unplug the saw. Raise the saw blade by
turning the height/bevel adjusting
handwheel clockwise. Adjust the bevel angle to 0° and lock the bevel locking
lever. Remove the blade guard. To check horizontal alignment, place a framing
square
or straight edge against both the body of the saw blade and the riving knife.
The framing square should contact both the blade body and riving knife evenly
with no gaps. Check the alignment with both sides of the blade body.
NOTE: The kerf or width of each tooth is wider than the blade body. When the
riving knife is properly aligned, it will be centered on the kerf width. To
check vertical alignment, place a framing square beside the riving kife. The
edge of the square and the riving knife should be parallel.
If the riving knife is out of alignment with the saw blade, adjustment is
needed. The riving knife must be in alignment front to back (horizontally) and
top to bottom (vertically). To adjust (horizontally and vertically): Raise the
saw blade to its full height. Remove the blade guard. From the back of the
saw, loosen the screws holding the
mounting bracket. Reposition the riving knife left or right as needed to align
the riving knife with the saw blade. Once properly aligned, securely retighten
all screws. Check again for squareness and continue to adjust if
needed.
SCREWS
BLADE BODY
RIVING KNIFE
BLADE TOOTH
KERF WIDTH
BLADE BODY
RIVING KNIFE
HORIZONTAL ADJUSTMENT
BLADE TOOTH
Fig. 22 23 – English
VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 23
ASSEMBLY
TO MOVE THE SAW
See Figure 24. Close the leg stand as described earlier in the To open/
close (set-up/tear down) the leg stand section. Holding the leg stand firmly,
pull the leg stand toward you
until the leg stand and saw are balanced on the wheels like a handtruck. Push
the saw to the desired location then either open the leg stand for immediate
saw operation or store the saw in a dry environment.
STORING TABLE SAW ACCESSORIES
See Figure 25 – 28.
When not in use the rip fence, riving knife, wrenches, blade guard, miter
gauge, and push stick may be stored beneath the saw table.
RIP FENCE STORAGE
RIP FENCE STORAGE
RIP FENCE Fig. 26
MITER GAUGE STORAGE
BLADE GUARD STORAGE BLADE GUARD
MITER GAUGE
KNOB BLADE WRENCH STORAGE
Fig. 27
Fig. 24
BLADE WRENCHES RIVING KNIFE STORAGE
Fig. 25
PUSH STICK
24 – English
KNOB
Fig. 28
OPERATION
WARNING:
Do not allow familiarity with tools to make you careless. Remember that a
careless fraction of a second is sufficient to inflict severe injury.
WARNING:
Always wear eye protection with side shields marked to comply with ANSI Z87.1.
Failure to do so could result in objects being thrown into your eyes,
resulting in possible serious injury.
WARNING:
Do not use any attachments or accessories not recommended by the manufacturer
of this tool. The use of attachments or accessories not recommended can result
in serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Although many of the illustrations in this manual are shown with the blade
guard removed for clarity, do not operate the saw without the blade guard
unless specifically instructed to do so.
WARNING:
The table saw must be mounted to a firm supporting surface, such as a
workbench or leg stand that positions the saw at waist height. Many
illustrations in this manual are shown with the saw unmounted for clarity.
APPLICATIONS
You may use this tool for the purposes listed below: Straight line cutting
operations such as cross cutting,
ripping, mitering, beveling, and compound cutting Dado with optional
accessories Cabinet making and woodworking NOTE: This table saw is designed to
cut wood and wood composition products only.
BASIC OPERATION OF THE TABLE SAW
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this tool has a polarized plug (one
blade is wider than the other). This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only
one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it
still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not change the plug in any way. Refer to the Electrical section in
this manual.
CAUSES OF KICKBACK
Kickback can occur when the blade stalls or binds, kicking the workpiece back
toward you with great force and speed. If your hands are near the saw blade,
they may be jerked loose from the workpiece and may contact the blade.
Obviously, kickback can cause serious injury, and it is well worth using
precautions to avoid the risks.
Kickback can be caused by any action that pinches the blade in the wood such
as: Making a cut with incorrect blade depth Sawing into knots or nails in the
workpiece Twisting the wood while making a cut Failing to support work Forcing
a cut Cutting warped or wet lumber Using the wrong blade for the type of cut
Not following correct operating procedures Misusing the saw Failing to use the
anti-kickback pawls Cutting with a dull, gummed-up, or improperly set blade
AVOIDING KICKBACK
Always use the correct blade depth setting. The top of the blade teeth should
clear the workpiece by 1/8 in. to 1/4 in.
Inspect the work for knots or nails before beginning a cut. Knock out any
loose knots with a hammer. Never saw into a loose knot or nail.
Always use the rip fence when rip cutting. Use the miter gauge when cross
cutting. This helps prevent twisting the wood in the cut.
Always use clean, sharp, and properly-set blades. Never make cuts with dull
blades.
To avoid pinching the blade, support the work properly before beginning a cut.
When making a cut, use steady, even pressure. Never force cuts. Do not release
the workpiece until you have pushed it completely past the blade.
Do not cut wet or warped lumber. The workpiece must have a straight edge for
it to be guided along the rip fence.
Use extra caution when cutting some prefinished or composition wood products
as the anti-kickback pawls may not always be effective.
Always guide your workpiece with both hands or with push sticks and/or push
blocks. Keep your body in a balanced position to be ready to resist kickback
should it occur. Never stand directly in line with the blade.
Use of a featherboard will help hold the workpiece securely against the saw
table or fence.
25 – English
OPERATION
Clean the saw, blade guard, under the throat plate, and any areas where
sawdust or scrap workpieces may gather.
Keep blade guard, riving knife and ainti-kickback pawls in place and proper
operation. The riving knife must be in alignment with the blade and the pawls
must stop a kickback once it has started. Check their operation before
ripping.
Maintain the rip fence parallel with the saw blade.
When ripping, apply the feed force to the section of the workpiece between the
blade and rip fence. Use a push stick and/or push block when appropriate.
Use the right type of blade for the cut being made.
Always use the riving knife for every operation where it is allowed. The use
of this device will greatly reduce the risk of kickback.
CUTTING AIDS
See Figures 29 – 30.
Push sticks are devices that may be used for pushing a workpiece through the
blade in any rip cut. When making non-through cuts or ripping narrow stock,
always use a push stick, push block, and/or featherboard so your hands do not
come within 3 inches of the saw blade. They can be made in various sizes and
shapes from scrap wood and used in a specific project. The stick must be
narrower than the workpiece, with a 90° notch in one end and shaped for
gripping on the other end.
A push block has a handle fastened by recessed screws from the underside or
secured with wood glue. Use push blocks for narrow cuts and all non-through
cuts. A cutting jig or similar cutting aid may be necessary to ensure the push
block does not interfere with the cut.
To make a push block: The material, shape and size of a push block can vary.
For this project, use two pieces of solid wood to make the base and handle.
The base is 5 in. long, 3 in. wide. and 3/8 in. thick. The handle should be 5
in. long, 1 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick. Mark the center of the base. Attach
the handle to the center of the base using recessed
screws or wood glue. NOTE: To prevent the push block from slipping across the
workpiece, you can attach a piece of sandpaper or a nonslip rubber pad to the
bottom of the base.
PUSH STICKS
PUSH BLOCKS PUSH STICK
Fig. 29
CAUTION:
Be sure the screws in a push block are recessed to avoid damaging the saw or
workpiece.
Push blocks and push sticks like the ones shown in figure 29 can be purchased
locally and a push stick is included with your saw. To make additional cutting
aids, follow the instructions below.
To make a push stick:
The material, shape and size of a push stick can vary. For this project, use a
piece of solid wood that is 18 in. long, 1-1/2 in. wide. and 3/4 in. thick. If
desired, cut a curve into one end of the workpiece to
serve as a grip. Cut a notch into the workpiece on the opposite end.
During use, this end will contact the edge of the material being cut.
GRIP BASE
HANDLE
NOTCH PUSH BLOCK
Fig. 30
26 – English
OPERATION
WORKPIECE SUPPORTS
See Figure 31.
When cutting with your table saw, make sure that the workpiece you are cutting
is properly supported. Properly supporting the workpiece throughout the
cutting process not only improves the accuracy of the cut but also makes the
cutting process safer for the user. This support could be required on the
infeed side, the overhang side, or the outfeed side of the table. Improper
support of the workpiece can cause the workpiece to move in unexpected ways
during the process of the cut startling the user of the saw. It may also cause
the user to apply abnormal forces to the workpiece to control it during the
cutting process. This tipping motion of the workpiece will happen if
approximately half of the workpiece overhangs any edge of the saw table.
Appropriate support can be easy to achieve. Commercially available support
stands are available, or any surface that is the same height as the work
surface of the saw would be acceptable. An operation that is practiced before
actually making the cut will inform the user that supports may be necessary
for safely completing the saw cut.
AUXILIARY FENCE
An auxiliary fence is a device used to close the gap between the rip fence and
the saw table. Always make and use and auxiliary fence when ripping material
1/8 in. or thinner.
HOW TO MAKE AND ATTACH AN AUXILIARY FENCE (FOR RIP CUTTING THIN WORKPIECE)
See Figure 32.
An auxiliary fence may be made for the saw by cutting a piece of wood to 21
in. long, at least 3/4 in. thick, and at least 3-1/2 in. tall.
NOTE: The height and thickness of the auxiliary fence can be increased
depending on the size and type of workpiece you are attempting to cut. Use
taller auxiliary fences when cutting workpieces that are taller than the
height of the rip fence.
To attach the auxiliary fence to the rip fence: Place the wood against the
left side of the rip fence and
resting firmly on the saw table. From the back side of the rip fence, secure
the wood to
the fence using wood screws.
NOTE: Make sure the screws you use to attach the auxiliary fence do not pass
through the front face of the fence.
HOW TO MAKE A JIG (FOR RIP CUTTING NARROW WORKPIECE)
See Figure 33.
If ripping a narrow workpiece places the hands too close to the blade, it will
be necessary to make and use a jig.
WORK SUPPORT
Fig. 31
21 in.
3-1/2 in.
3/4 in.
STOP
Fig. 32 JIG HANDLE
JIG Fig. 33
To make a jig: Attach a handle to a long, straight piece of wood and
secure from the underside using recessed screws. Cut an L-shaped stop in the
side of the jig.
27 – English
OPERATION
To use a jig: Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge
flush against the jig and against the stop. Holding the jig handle and using a
push block and/or
push stick make the rip cut, see Making a Rip Cut later in this section.
FEATHERBOARD
A featherboard is a device used to help control the workpiece by holding it
securely against the table or fence. Featherboards are especially useful when
ripping small workpieces and for completing non-through cuts. The end is
angled with a number of short kerfs to give a friction hold on the workpiece
and locked in place on the table with a C-clamp. Test to ensure it can resist
kickback.
WARNING:
Place the featherboard against the uncut portion of the workpiece to avoid
kickback that could cause serious personal injury.
Commercially available featherboards can be purchased for a reasonable price.
Many of these featherboards mount inside the miter slots of the saw and are
convenient to mount and use on your table saw. To make a featherboard, follow
the instructions in the next section.
HOW TO MAKE A FEATHERBOARD
See Figure 34.
The featherboard is an excellent project for the saw. Select a solid piece of
lumber approximately 3/4 in. thick, 2-1/2 in. wide and 12 in. long. Mark the
center of the width on one end of the stock. Miter the width to 70° (see page
39 for information on miter cuts). Mark the board from the widest point at
four inches.
Prepare the saw for ripping as discussed on page 37. Set the rip fence to
allow approximately a 1/4 in. “finger” to be cut in the stock. Feed the stock
only to the mark previously made at 4 in. Turn the saw OFF and allow the blade
to completely stop
rotating before removing the stock. Reset the rip fence and cut spaced rips
into the workpiece to allow approximately 1/4 in. fingers and 1/8 in. spaces
between the fingers.
HOW TO MOUNT A FEATHERBOARD
See Figure 35. Completely lower the saw blade. Position the rip fence to the
desired adjustment for the cut to be performed and lock. Place the workpiece
against the fence and over the saw blade area. Adjust the featherboard to
apply resistance to the workpiece just forward of the blade. Attach C-clamps
to further secure the featherboard to the edge of the saw table.
WARNING:
The featherboard must be installed in front of the blade. Do not locate the
featherboard to the rear of the blade. Kickback can result from the
featherboard pinching the workpiece and binding the blade in the saw kerf if
positioned improperly. Failure to heed this warning can result in serious
personal injury.
PUSH BLOCK
FEATHERBOARD
PUSH STICK
Fig. 35
2 1/2 in. 3/4 in.
1/4 in.
1/8 in. 12 in.
28 – English
70° 4 in.
Fig. 34
OPERATION
TYPES OF CUTS
See Figure 36.
There are six basic cuts: 1) the cross cut, 2) the rip cut, 3) the
1
miter cut, 4) the bevel cross cut, 5) the bevel rip cut, and 6) the
compound (bevel) miter cut. All other cuts are combinations
of these basic six. Operating procedures for making each
kind of cut are given later in this section.
CROSS CUT
WARNING:
Always make sure the blade guard is in place and working
2
properly when making these cuts to avoid possible injury.
Cross cuts are straight 90° cuts made across the grain of the workpiece. The wood is fed into the cut at a 90° angle to the blade, and the blade is vertical.
Rip cuts are made with the grain of the wood. To avoid
kickback while making a rip cut, make sure one side of the
3
wood rides firmly against the rip fence.
Miter cuts are made with the wood at any angle to the blade other than 90°. The blade is vertical. Miter cuts tend to “creep” during cutting. This can be controlled by holding the workpiece securely against the miter gauge.
RIP CUT MITER CUT
WARNING:
4
Always use a push stick with small pieces of wood, and also to finish the cut when ripping a long narrow piece of wood, to prevent your hands from getting close to the blade.
BEVEL CROSS CUT
Bevel cuts are made with an angled blade. Bevel cross cuts
are across the wood grain, and bevel rip cuts are with the grain.
5
Compound (or bevel) miter cuts are made with an angled blade on wood that is angled to the blade. Be thoroughly familiar with making cross cuts, rip cuts, bevel cuts, and miter cuts before trying a compound miter cut.
CUTTING TIPS
Dado and rabbet cuts are non-through cuts which can be
6
either rip cuts or cross cuts. Carefully read and understand
all sections of this operator’s manual before attempting any
operation.
BEVEL RIP CUT
COMPOUND (BEVEL) MITER CUT Fig. 36
WARNING:
Do not use blades rated less than the speed of this tool. Failure to heed this
warning could result in personal injury.
The kerf (the cut made by the blade in the wood) will be wider than the blade
to avoid overheating or binding. Make allowance for the kerf when measuring
wood.
Make sure the kerf is made on the waste side of the measuring line.
Cut the wood with the finish side up. Knock out any loose knots with a hammer
before making
the cut. Always provide proper support for the wood as it comes
out of the saw.
29 – English
OPERATION
TO CHANGE BLADE DEPTH
See Figures 37 – 38.
The blade depth should be set so that the outer points of the blade are higher
than the workpiece by approximately 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. but the lowest points
(gullets) are below the top surface. Turn the bevel lock lever to the right.
Raise the blade by turning the height/bevel adjusting
handwheel clockwise or lower it by turning the handwheel counterclockwise.
TO CHANGE BLADE ANGLE (BEVEL)
See Figure 38.
This table saw has a rack and pinion bevel control that allows you to make
angled cuts from 90° to 45°.
NOTE: A 90° cut has a 0° bevel and a 45° cut has a 45° bevel. Unplug the saw.
Loosen bevel control by turning bevel lock lever all the
way to the left. If it needs to be further loosened, pull spring-loaded bevel
lock lever out and rotate it back to the right. Release bevel locking lever
and allow it to seat (lock) in its original position. Turn it to the left
again until loose. Move the height adjusting handwheel to the right to bevel
to 45° bevel angle. Tighten bevel control by turning bevel lock lever to the
right. If it needs to be tightened more, pull the springloaded bevel lock
lever out and rotate it to the left. Then release bevel lock lever and allow
it to return to its original position. Rotate to the right again. Repeat this
process until bevel lock lever is securely tightened.
TO ADJUST THE BEVEL INDICATOR
See Figure 39.
If the bevel indicator is not at zero when the saw blade is at 90°, adjust the
indicator by loosening the screw and setting it at 0° on the bevel scale.
Retighten the screw.
BEVEL LOCKING
LEVER TO DECREASE
ANGLE
GULLET Fig. 36
HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
TO INCREASE ANGLE
Fig. 38
BEVEL LOCKING
LEVER
SCREW
HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
30 – English
BEVEL INDICATOR
Fig. 39
OPERATION
TO USE THE RIP FENCE
See Figure 40 – 41.
WARNING:
RIP FENCE
To reduce the risk of injury, always make sure the rip fence is parallel to
the blade before beginning any operation.
NOTE: The rip fence included with your saw has a low fence. The low fence
should face away from the blade when cutting material greater than 3/4 inches
thick. The low fence should face toward the blade when cutting thin and/or
narrow workpieces. NEVER support the weight of the workpiece on the low fence
while making a cut. Loosen the rip fence by lifting the locking lever. Place
the rear lip on the rear of the saw table and pull
slightly toward the front of the unit. Lower the front end of the rip fence
onto the guide
surfaces on top of the front rail. Check for smooth gliding action. Position
the rip fence the desired distance from the blade. With the rip fence flat on
the saw table, push the fence
towards the front rail to align the fence to the blade. Push the locking lever
down to align and secure the
fence. When securely locked, the locking lever should point downward.
NOTE: Ensure the locking lever secures the rip fence in place. If adjustments
are needed, see To Check the Tightness of the Rip Fence Locking Lever in the
Adjustment section of this manual.
NOTE: If the rip fence is not parallel to the blade, adjustments are needed.
Refer to: To Check the Alignment of the Rip Fence to the Blade in the
Adjustment section of this manual.
TO SET THE RIP FENCE SCALE INDICATOR TO THE BLADE
See Figure 42.
Use the indicator on the rip fence to position the fence along the scale on
the front rail.
NOTE: The blade guard must be removed to perform this adjustment. Reinstall
the blade guard when the adjustment is complete.
Begin with the blade at a zero angle (straight up). Unplug the saw. Loosen the
rip fence by lifting the locking lever. Using a framing square, set the rip
fence 2 in. from the
blade tip edge. Loosen the screw on the scale indicator and align with
the 2 in. mark as shown. Tighten the screw and check the dimension and the rip
fence.
LOCKING LEVER
RIP FENCE
LOW FENCE
Fig. 40 FRONT RAIL
REAR OF SAW TABLE
BLADE
RIP FENCE
SCALE INDICATOR
REAR LIP
Fig. 41
2 in. MARK
2 in. SCREW
SCALE
LOCKING LEVER
FRONT RAIL Fig. 42
31 – English
OPERATION
TO USE THE SLIDING TABLE EXTENSION
See Figures 43 – 44. Increase the length of the saw table by using the table
extension. Set the rip fence to 14 in.
WARNING:
The rip fence must be locked in the 14 in. position to ensure the accuracy of
the secondary scale measurement and to provide proper support of the workpiece
when using the table in the extended position. Failure to position the rip
fence correctly will cause inaccurate workpiece measurements and could result
in serious personal injury.
Pull the front table locking lever toward you to unlock the lever. Repeat with
the back lever.
Slide the table extension to the desired width. NOTE: Use the scale on the
front rail when a specific width is desired.
Once the table extension are set to the desired width, relock the front and
back locking levers by pushing the levers back towards the saw base.
SLIDING TABLE EXTENSION
TABLE LOCKING LEVER
SECONDARY SCALE INDICATOR
Fig. 43 SLIDING TABLE
EXTENSION
Fig. 44
32 – English
OPERATION
TO USE THE MITER GAUGE
See Figure 45.
The miter gauge provides greater accuracy in angled cuts. For very close
tolerances, test cuts are recommended.
The miter gauge can be turned 60° to the right or left. Loosen the lock knob.
With the miter gauge in the miter gauge groove, rotate
the gauge until the desired angle is reached on the scale. Retighten the lock
knob.
ADJUSTING THE BLADE PARALLEL TO THE MITER GAUGE GROOVE (REMOVING HEEL)
See Figures 46 – 48.
LOCK KNOB
MITER GAUGE BODY
WARNING:
The blade must be made parallel to the miter gauge groove so the wood does not
bind resulting in kickback. Failure to do so could result in serious personal
injury.
Do not loosen any bolts for this adjustment until you have checked with a
square and made test cuts to be sure adjustments are necessary. Once the bolts
are loosened, these items must be reset. Unplug the saw. Remove the blade
guard and riving knife. Raise the blade
by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel clockwise.
NOTE: For details on removing and reinstalling the riving knife, see Cleaning
the Riving Knife Lock Lever Plates in the Maintenance section of this manual.
Mark beside one of the blade teeth at the front of the blade. Using a ruler,
measure the distance from the inside face of the blade tooth to the left edge
of the miter gauge groove.
NOTE: For greater accuracy, place the marked blade tooth on top of the ruler.
Turn the blade so the marked tooth is at the back. Move the ruler to the rear
and again measure the distance from the inside face of the blade tooth to the
left edge of the miter gauge groove. If the distances are the same, the blade
and the miter gauge groove are parallel. Replace blade guard and riving knife.
MITER GAUGE
BLADE TOOTH BLADE
Fig. 45
RULER MITER GAUGE GROOVE
Fig. 46
33 – English
OPERATION
If the distances are different: Remove the blade guard and riving knife. Raise
the
blade by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel clockwise. Loosen the
locking bolts by turning towards the left.
NOTE: The bolts are located above the height/bevel adjusting handwheel and
under the saw table in the front of the saw. Turn adjusting bolt left or right
until the blade is square. Tighten the locking bolts. Check again for
squareness and continue to adjust if needed.
RULER
MITER GAUGE GROOVE
WARNING:
To reduce the risk of injury from kickback, align the rip fence to the blade
following any blade adjustments. Always make sure the rip fence is parallel to
the blade before beginning any operation.
MAKING CUTS
Fig. 47
WARNING:
Before making any cuts, make sure that the table saw stand is on a firm level
surface where there is plenty of room to handle and properly support the table
saw and the workpiece. If a suitable location can not be found, then the saw
should not be used. Operating the saw in a location that does not provide
adequate space and stable footing for the table saw stand could create a
tipping hazard which could result in serious personal injury.
This table saw can perform a variety of cuts that are not all mentioned in
this manual. DO NOT attempt to make any cuts not covered here unless you are
thoroughly familiar with the proper procedures and necessary accessories. Your
local library has many books on table saw usage and specialized woodworking
procedures for your reference. The blade provided with the saw is a high-
quality combination blade suitable for ripping and cross cut operations.
Carefully check all setups and rotate the blade one full revolution to assure
proper clearance before connecting saw to power source. Stand slightly to the
side of the blade path to reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur.
WARNING:
Do not use blades rated less than the speed of this tool. Failure to heed this
warning could result in personal injury.
ADJUSTING BOLT
LOCKING BOLTS (2)
Fig. 48
Use the miter gauge when making cross, miter, bevel, and compound miter cuts.
To secure the angle, lock the miter gauge in place by twisting the lock knob
clockwise. Always tighten the lock knob securely in place before use.
During use the miter gauge may move slightly left or right inside the miter
gauge groove. For greater accuracy, press the miter gauge against the left or
right edge of the miter gauge groove when making cuts. Do not allow the gauge
to go from one side to the other.
34 – English
OPERATION
Always place the workpiece against the face of the miter gauge body when
making cuts. To prevent the workpiece from moving, you can attach a piece of
sandpaper to the miter gauge body face. NOTE: It is recommended that you place
the piece to be saved on the same side of the blade as the miter gauge, and
that you make a test cut on scrap wood first.
MAKING A CROSS CUT
See Figures 49 – 51.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
serious possible injury.
CROSS CUT PLACE RIGHT HAND ON WORKPIECE AND MITER GAUGE HERE
WARNING:
Using the rip fence as a cutoff gauge when cross cutting will result in
kickback which can cause serious personal injury.
Remove the rip fence. Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.
Set the miter gauge to 0° and tighten the lock knob. Make sure the wood is
clear of the blade before turning
on the saw. Press the top button on the switch to turn the saw on.
NOTE: The switch cover does not have to be raised to operate the switch. Press
the bottom button on the switch to turn the saw off.
NOTE: To prevent unauthorized use, install a padlock (not included) through
the holes in the switch and cover as shown in figure 50. Let the blade build
up to full speed before moving the workpiece into the blade. Hold the
workpiece firmly with both hands on the miter gauge and feed the workpiece
into the blade.
NOTE: The hand closest to the blade should be placed on the miter gauge lock
knob and the hand farthest from the blade should be placed on the workpiece.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing the workpiece.
PLACE LEFT HAND ON MITER GAUGE
LOCK KNOB SWITCH ON
SWITCH IN LOCKED POSITION
Fig. 49 SWITCH OFF
Fig. 50
35 – English
OPERATION
To make repetitive cross cuts:
A stop block can be used as a cut-off gauge to make repetitive cross cuts of
the same length without having to mark the workpiece for each cut. The end of
a stop block should always be in front of the blade. NEVER use the rip fence
as a cut-off gauge. Remove the rip fence. Set the blade to the correct depth
for the workpiece. Set the miter gauge to 0° and tighten the lock knob.
Position a 3 in. block of wood at the desired distance
from the blade to act as a cut-off gauge. Secure the stop block in place using
a vice or a clamp.
REPETITIVE CROSS CUT
WARNING:
When secured, the end of the stop block should be in front of the blade.
Securing the stop block beyond the front of the blade will result in kickback
which can cause serious personal injury.
Position the workpiece on the miter gauge with the edge flush against the stop
block.
When cutting a long or wide workpiece, place a support the same height as the
table surface in front of the saw, behind the saw, and on the sides of the saw
as needed.
Turn the saw on. Hold the workpiece firmly with both hands on the miter
gauge and feed the workpiece into the blade. NOTE: The hand closest to the
blade should be placed on the miter gauge lock knob and the hand farthest from
the blade should be placed on the workpiece. When the cut is made, turn the
saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the cut
piece. Move the miter gauge back to the front of the saw and position the
workpiece for the next cut. After the last cut, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop and remove the stop block.
MAKING A RIP CUT
See Figure 52 – 53.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
serious possible injury.
WARNING:
Taper cuts must only be made with a special jig, which is commercially
available. Do not attempt a free hand taper cut on this saw. Failure to follow
these instructions could result in serious personal injury.
STOP BLOCK BLADE
RIP CUT RIP FENCE
Fig. 51
PUSH STICK
Fig. 52
Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece. Position the rip fence
the desired distance from the blade
for the cut and securely lock the handle. NOTE: Do not place the rip fence on
the left side of the blade when cutting material greater than 3/4 inches
thick. Workpieces thicker than 3/4 inches may be unstable and require
additional hold downs to ensure stability during cutting. When cutting a long
or wide workpiece, place a support the same height as the table surface in
front of the saw, behind the saw, and on the sides of the saw as needed.
Install featherboard in the appropriate position for the cut being made. Make
sure the workpiece is clear of the blade before turning on the saw.
36 – English
OPERATION
Turn the saw on. Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge
flush against the rip fence. Let the blade build up to full speed before
feeding the workpiece into the blade. Using a push stick and/or push blocks,
slowly feed the workpiece toward the blade. Stand slightly to the side of the
workpiece as it contacts the blade to reduce the chance of injury should
kickback occur. Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece, use the
hand closest to the rip fence to guide it. Make sure the edge of the workpiece
remains in solid contact with both the rip fence and the surface of the table.
If ripping a narrow piece, use a push stick, push blocks and/or a narrow
ripping jig to move the piece through the cut and past the blade. When the cut
is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop
before removing the workpiece.
To make rip cuts narrower than 2 inches:
If a narrow ripping jig is not used, the rip fence included with your saw has
a low fence to allow narrow ripping operations.
Using a push block and/or push stick make the rip cut, see Making a Rip Cut
earlier in this section.
NOTE: This technique is for making narrow rip cuts on workpieces with a
thickness of 3/4 inches or less. To make narrow rip cuts on thicker material
use a narrow ripping jig, refer to How To Make A Jig (For Rip Cutting Narrow
Workpiece) earlier in this section.
NOTE: The cutting operation described above and illustrated in figure 53 will
result in the saved piece being between the rip fence and the left side of the
blade. Alternatively, you could place the rip fence and the wide portion of
the workpiece on the left side of the blade, which would result in the saved
piece being on the right.
LOW FENCE
NARROW RIP CUT
WARNING:
When making narrow rip cuts always ensure that the piece being cut cannot fall
into the throat plate of the saw. If this piece falls into the throat plate it
may damage the under table guarding and create a hazardous condition to the
operator.
Unlock the rip fence and place it on the left side of the blade.
NOTE: The rip fence included with your saw has a low fence. The low fence
should face away from the blade when cutting material greater than 3/4 inches
thick. The low fence should face toward the blade when cutting thin and/or
narrow workpieces. Lift the blade guard’s left side barrier and lower it onto
either the workpiece or the narrow rip fence to ensure coverage of the cutting
zone during this operation. Secure the rip fence. Position the workpiece flat
on the table with the edge flush against the low fence.
RIP FENCE
BLADE
PUSH STICK
Fig. 53
37 – English
OPERATION
MAKING A MITER CUT
See Figure 54.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
possible serious injury.
Remove the rip fence. Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.
Set the miter gauge to the desired angle and tighten the
lock knob. Make sure the workpiece is clear of the blade before
turning on the saw. Turn the saw on. Let the blade build up to full speed
before moving the
workpiece into the blade. Hold the workpiece firmly with both hands on the
miter
gauge and feed the workpiece into the blade. NOTE: The hand closest to the
blade should be placed on the miter gauge lock knob and the hand farthest from
the blade should be placed on the workpiece. When the cut is made, turn the
saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
MAKING A BEVEL CROSS CUT
See Figures 55 – 56.
BLADE STRAIGHT
MITER CUT
MITER GAUGE ANGLED
Fig. 54 VIEWED FROM THE FRONT, BELOW THE TABLE SAW
TO TIGHTEN
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
possible serious injury.
Remove the rip fence. Unlock the bevel locking lever. Adjust the bevel angle
to the desired setting. Lock the bevel locking lever. Set the blade to the
correct depth for the workpiece. Set the miter gauge to 0° and tighten the
lock knob. Make sure the workpiece is clear of the blade before
turning on the saw. Turn the saw on. Let the blade build up to full speed
before moving the
workpiece into the blade. Hold the workpiece firmly with both hands on the
miter
gauge and feed the workpiece into the blade.
NOTE: The hand closest to the blade should be placed on the miter gauge lock
knob and the hand farthest from the blade should be placed on the workpiece.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing the workpiece.
38 – English
TO LOOSEN
HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
Fig. 55
BEVEL CROSS CUT
BLADE ANGLED
MITER GAUGE STRAIGHT
Fig. 56
OPERATION
MAKING A BEVEL RIP CUT
See Figure 57.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
serious personal injury.
BEVEL RIP CUT
BLADE ANGLED
RIP FENCE
WARNING:
The rip fence must be on the right side of the blade to avoid trapping the
wood and causing kickback. Placement of the rip fence to the left of the blade
will result in kickback and the risk of serious personal injury.
Remove the miter gauge. Install featherboard in the appropriate position for
the cut
being made. Unlock the bevel locking lever. Adjust the bevel angle to the
desired setting. Lock the bevel locking lever. Set the blade to the correct
depth for the workpiece. Position the rip fence the desired distance from the
blade
for the cut and securely lock the handle. Make sure the wood is clear of the
blade before turning
on the saw. When cutting a long or wide workpiece, place a support
the same height as the table surface in front of the saw, behind the saw, and
on the sides of the saw as needed. Turn the saw on. Position the workpiece
flat on the table with the edge flush against the rip fence. Let the blade
build up to full speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.
SCALE
Fig. 57
Using a push stick and/or push blocks, slowly feed the workpiece toward the
blade. Stand slightly to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to
reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur.
Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece, use the hand closest to
the rip fence to guide it. Make sure the edge of the workpiece remains in
solid contact with both the rip fence and the surface of the table. If ripping
a narrow piece, use a push stick and/or push blocks to move the piece through
the cut and past the blade.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing the workpiece.
39 – English
OPERATION
MAKING A COMPOUND (BEVEL) MITER CUT
See Figure 58.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
possible serious injury.
Remove the rip fence. Unlock the bevel locking lever. Adjust the bevel angle
to the desired setting. Lock the bevel locking lever. Set the blade to the
correct depth for the workpiece. Set the miter gauge to the desired angle and
tighten the
lock knob. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw. Turn the saw on. Let the blade build up to full speed before
moving the
workpiece into the blade. Hold the workpiece firmly with both hands on the
miter
gauge and feed the workpiece into the blade.
NOTE: The hand closest to the blade should be placed on the miter gauge lock
knob and the hand farthest from the blade should be placed on the workpiece.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing the workpiece.
COMPOUND (BEVEL) MITER CUT PLACE LEFT HAND ON MITER GAUGE HERE
Fig. 58
40 – English
OPERATION
MAKING A LARGE PANEL CUT
See Figure 59. Make sure the saw is properly secured to a work surface to
avoid tipping from the weight of a large panel.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid
possible serious injury.
LARGE PANEL CUT RIP FENCE
WARNING:
Never make freehand cuts (cuts without the miter gauge or rip fence). Unguided
workpieces can result in serious injury.
Install featherboard in the appropriate position for the cut being made.
When cutting a long or wide workpiece, place a support the same height as the
table surface in front of the saw, behind the saw, and on the sides of the saw
as needed.
SUPPORT
HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
WARNING:
Improper support of the workpiece on the side and/ or outfeed side of the saw
could create unexpected movement of the workpiece and/or the saw, resulting in
serious personal injury.
Depending on the shape of the panel, use the rip fence or miter gauge. If the
panel is too large to use either the rip fence or the miter gauge, it is too
large for this saw.
Make sure the workpiece does not touch the blade before you turn on the saw.
Turn the saw on. Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge
flush against the rip fence. Let the blade build up to full speed before
feeding the workpiece into the blade.
Fig. 59
Using a push stick and/or push blocks, slowly feed the workpiece toward the
blade. Stand slightly to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to
reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur.
Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece, use the hand closest to
the rip fence to guide it. Make sure the edge of the workpiece remains in
solid contact with both the rip fence and the surface of the table. If ripping
a narrow piece, use a push stick and/or push blocks to move the piece through
the cut and past the blade.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing the workpiece.
41 – English
OPERATION
MAKING A NON-THROUGH CUT
See Figure 60.
Non-through cuts (made with a standard 10 in. blade) can be made with the
grain (ripping) or across the grain (cross cut). The use of a non-through cut
is essential to cutting grooves, rabbets, and dadoes. This is the only type
cut that is made without the blade guard assembly installed. Make sure the
blade guard assembly is reinstalled upon completion of this type of cut. Read
the appropriate section which describes the type of cut in addition to this
section on non-through or dado cuts. For example, if your non-through cut is a
straight cross cut, read and understand the section on straight cross cuts
before proceeding.
NON-THROUGH CUT BLADE GUARD
REMOVED
WARNING:
When making a non-through cut, the blade is covered by the workpiece during
most of the cut. Be alert to the exposed blade at the start and finish of
every cut to reduce the risk of personal injury.
WARNING:
Never feed wood with your hands when making any non-through cut such as
rabbets or dadoes. To avoid personal injury, always use push blocks, push
sticks, and featherboards.
Unplug the saw. Remove the blade guard. Place riving knife in “down” position.
Unlock the bevel locking lever. Adjust the bevel angle to 0°. Lock the bevel
locking lever. Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece. Depending
on the shape and size of the wood, use either
the rip fence or miter gauge. Plug the saw into the power source and turn the
saw on.
PUSH BLOCK
Fig. 60
Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the workpiece into the
blade.
Always use push blocks, push sticks, and/or featherboards appropriately when
making non-through cuts to reduce the risk of serious injury.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the blade to come to a
complete stop before removing the workpiece.
NOTE: A non-through rip cut is shown in the illustration above. To make a non-
through cross cut, remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls. Place the
riving knife in the “down” position and perform the cross cut, see Making a
Cross Cut earlier in this section. Once all non-through cuts are completed:
Unplug the saw. Place riving knife in “up” position. Reinstall blade guard.
42 – English
OPERATION
MAKING A DADO CUT
See Figure 61.
An optional dado throat plate is required for this procedure (see the
Accessories section of this manual and check with the retailer where the table
saw was purchased). All blades and dado sets must not be rated less than the
speed of this tool. This saw is designed for use with a 6 in. stack dado (up
to width of 1/2 in.). Do not use an adjustable dado or molding cutters on this
saw.
Rabbeting cuts are dado cuts made on the end of a workpiece. For best results,
complete rabbet cuts using a dado stack blade.
NOTE: Use an auxiliary fence when making rabbet cuts to prevent the face of
the rip frence from making contact with the dado blade stack during the
cutting operation.
BLADE GUARD REMOVED
DADO CUT
MITER GAUGE
WARNING:
When making a non-through cut, the blade is covered by the workpiece during
most of the cut. Be alert to the exposed blade at the start and finish of
every cut to reduce the risk of personal injury.
WARNING:
Always put all blade washers in proper location when reinstalling standard
blade. Failure to do so can result in possible injury and damage to the tool.
WARNING:
Always use push blocks, push sticks, and/or featherboards when making dado
cuts to avoid the risk of serious injury.
Unplug the saw. Remove the blade guard, throat plate, and riving knife.
NOTE: For details on removing and reinstalling the riving knife, see Cleaning
the Riving Knife Lock Lever Plates in the Maintenance section of this manual.
Remove the blade nut, blade washer, and saw blade. NOTE: Always store the
blade washer and throat plate in a secure location. Mount the dado blade,
according to manufacturer instructions, using the blade and chippers
appropriate for the desired width of cut. Reinstall and securely tighten the
blade nut. NOTE: The blade washer may be used provided the arbor shaft extends
slightly beyond the arbor nut. Make sure the blade nut is fully engaged and
the arbor extends past a securely tightened blade nut.
Fig. 61
Place release lever in locked position. Install the dado throat plate and
rotate the blade by hand
to make sure it turns freely then lower the blade. Depending on the shape and
size of the wood, use either
the rip fence or miter gauge. If making a rip cut, install featherboard in the
appropriate
position for the cut being made. Turn the saw on.
NOTE: Make sure the wood does not touch the blade before you turn on the saw.
Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the workpiece into the
blade. Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge flush against
the rip fence or miter gauge and hold firmly against the saw table. Use a push
block or push stick to move the wood through the cut past the blade. Never
push a small piece of wood into the blade with your hand, always use a push
stick. The use of push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards are necessary
when making non-through cuts. When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for
the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the workpiece.
NOTE: A dado cross cut is shown in the illustration above. To make a dado rip
cut, remove the blade guard, anti-kickback pawls, throat plate, and riving
knife. Install the dado blade and dado throat plate then perform the rip cut,
see Making a Rip Cut earlier in this section.
Once all dado cuts are completed: Unplug the saw. Remove the dado throat plate
and dado blade. Reinstall the riving knife in the “up” position. Reinstall
standard cutting blade, throat plate, and blade
guard.
43 – English
ADJUSTMENTS
WARNING:
Before performing any adjustment, make sure the tool is unplugged from the
power supply and the top button on the switch is not depressed. Failure to
heed this warning could result in serious personal injury.
CLOSED END BLADE WRENCH
To avoid unnecessary set-ups and adjustments, a good practice is to check your setups carefully with a framing square and make practice cuts in scrap wood before making finish cuts in good workpieces. Do not start any adjustments until you have checked with a square and made test cuts to be sure adjustments are needed.
REPLACING THE BLADE
See Figures 62 – 64.
Wear gloves and other personal protective equipment when installing and
removing a blade only. DO NOT wear gloves when operating the saw. DO NOT place
gloved hand near blade when it is in motion.
Use correct blades. Blade kerf width and blade body thickness must be within
the limits stamped on the riving knife.
ARBOR SHAFT
Unplug the saw. Remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls. Lower the saw
blade and remove the throat plate. Lock the bevel locking lever. Raise the saw
blade to full height. Insert the open end of the blade wrench onto the flats
on
the arbor shaft. Insert the closed end of the blade wrench over the blade
nut. Holding both wrenches firmly, pull the outside wrench (right side)
forward while pushing the inside (left side) to the back of the saw. Remove
the blade nut and blade washer.
NOTE: Arbor shaft has right-hand threads. Unlock the release locking lever and remove the blade.
To replace the blade with an accessory blade, follow the instructions provided with the accessory.
To install a standard blade:
Place the new blade on the arbor shaft (the teeth must point down toward the
front of the saw to work properly).
Place the blade washer and the blade nut over the arbor shaft. Be sure the
flat side of the blade washer faces the blade and that all items are snug
against the arbor housing. Make sure the blade nut is securely tightened. Do
not overtighten.
RIVING KNIFE
NOTE: Arbor shaft has right-hand threads. Lock the release lever. Rotate the blade by hand to make sure it turns freely. Lower the saw blade and reinstall the throat plate. Check all clearances for free blade rotation.
44 – English
OPEN END BLADE WRENCH
BLADE NUT
Fig. 62 BLADE
BLADE WASHER
BLADE NUT Fig. 63
THROAT PLATE
BLADE
Fig. 64
ADJUSTMENTS
After installation, adjust the rip scale indicator to account for the kerf and thickness of the blade. Refer to To Set the Rip Fence Scale Indicator to the Blade in the Operation section of this manual. In cutting operations, the scale will be set to the side of the blade where the cut will be measured and made.
0° STOP SCREW
BLADE
COMBINATION SQUARE
TO SET THE BEVEL INDICATOR AND BEVEL STOPS AT 0° AND 45°
See Figures 65 – 66.
The angle settings of the saw have been set at the factory and, unless damaged in shipping, should not require setting during assembly. After extensive use, they may need to be checked. Unplug the saw. Raise the blade. Remove the blade guard assembly. To check for squareness, 0° bevel:
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER
Unlock the bevel locking lever. Rotate the height/bevel adjusting handwheel
until the
blade is tilted to the right as far as it will go. Lock the bevel locking
lever. Place the combination square against blade. Make sure
square is not touching the tip of one of the saw teeth.
If the blade is not an exact 90° (0° bevel): Unlock the bevel locking lever.
Turn the height/bevel adjusting handwheel until the bevel
indicator points to 5°-10°. Turn the 0° stop screw 1/4 turn in the clockwise
or
counterclockwise direction. Rotate the height/bevel adjusting handwheel until
the
blade is tilted to the right as far as it will go. Lock the bevel locking
lever and check the blade angle. Repeat above steps to readjust and recheck
blade angle
as needed.
BEVEL INDICATOR HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
Fig. 65
45° STOP SCREW
BLADE
COMBINATION SQUARE
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER
Once blade is square to the table (0° bevel):
Check bevel indicator.
If indicator is not pointing to the 0º mark on the bevel
scale, loosen the indicator adjusting screw and adjust
45
indicator.
Retighten screw.
To check for squareness, 45° bevel: Unlock the bevel locking lever. Rotate the
height/bevel adjusting handwheel until the
blade is tilted to the left as far as it will go.
HEIGHT/BEVEL ADJUSTING HANDWHEEL
BEVEL INDICATOR
Fig. 66
Lock the bevel locking lever. Place the combination square against blade. Make sure
Turn the 45° stop screw 1/4 turn in the clockwise or counterclockwise direction.
square is not touching the tip of one of the saw teeth.
Rotate the height/bevel adjusting handwheel until the
If the blade is not an exact 45°:
blade is tilted to the left as far as it will go.
Unlock the bevel locking lever.
Lock the bevel locking lever and check the blade angle.
Turn the height/bevel adjusting handwheel until the bevel Repeat above steps to readjust and recheck blade angle
indicator points to 35°-40°.
as needed.
45 – English
ADJUSTMENTS
Once blade is 45° to the table: Check bevel indicator. If indicator is not
pointing to the 45º mark on the bevel
scale, loosen the indicator adjusting screw and adjust indicator. Retighten
screws. When all adjustments are complete: Reinstall the blade guard assembly.
TO CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE RIP FENCE TO THE BLADE
See Figure 67.
The rip fence must be parallel to the saw blade and the miter gauge groove.
WARNING:
A misaligned rip fence can cause kickbacks and jams. To reduce the risk of
injury, always maintain proper rip fence alignment.
Unplug the saw. Remove the blade guard, riving knife, and anti-kickback
pawls. Raise the blade by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel
clockwise. Verify the blade is parallel to the miter gauge groove as described
in the Adjusting the Blade Parallel to the Miter Gauge Groove (Removing Heel)
section in Operation. Move the rip fence near the saw blade (about three
inches away) and lock the rip fence in place with the locking lever. Mark
beside one of the blade teeth at the front of the blade. Using a ruler,
measure the distance from the inside face of the blade tooth to the to the
inside face of the rip fence.
NOTE: For greater accuracy, place the marked blade tooth on top of the ruler.
NOTE: If the rip fence is on the left side of the blade, measure from the low
fence to the blade tooth. Turn the blade so the marked tooth is at the back.
Move the ruler to the rear and again measure the distance from the inside face
of the blade tooth to the inside face of the rip fence. If the distances are
the same, the blade and the rip fence are parallel.
If the distances are different: Unlock the rip fence. Loosen the two screws
located on top of the rip fence. Adjust the rip fence. Alternately retighten
the screws. Recheck alignment. Repeat steps as needed until rip fence is
correctly aligned. Replace blade guard, riving knife, and anti-kickback pawls.
TO CHECK THE TIGHTNESS OF THE RIP FENCE LOCKING LEVER
See Figure 68.
The locking lever on the rip fence should hold the rip fence securely against
the front and back rails. The lever should not be difficult to push down and
lock. To assure proper fence lock adjustment:
Lock the rip fence in place.
Try moving the fence from side-to-side. If the fence moves, tighten the lock
nut 1/4 turn at a time, rechecking for movement after each adjustment.
With the rip fence in the locked position, recheck rip fence parallelism with
the blade and adjust if necessary.
NOTE: If it is difficult or too easy to lock and unlock the locking lever,
adjust the lock nut until the lever is properly tensioned then repeat the
above steps.
RULER
RIP FENCE BLADE TOOTH
SCREWS LOCKING LEVER LOCK NUT
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
46 – English
MAINTENANCE
WARNING:
When servicing, use only identical replacement parts. Use of any other parts
may create a hazard or cause product damage.
WARNING:
Always wear eye protection with side shields marked to comply with ANSI Z87.1
during product operation. If operation is dusty, also wear a dust mask.
WARNING:
Before performing any maintenance, make sure the tool is unplugged from the
power supply and the top button on the switch is not depressed. Failure to
heed this warning could result in serious personal injury.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Avoid using solvents when cleaning plastic parts. Most plastics are
susceptible to damage from various types of commercial solvents and may be
damaged by their use. Use clean cloths to remove dirt, dust, oil, grease, etc.
WARNING:
Do not at any time let brake fluids, gasoline, petroleumbased products,
penetrating oils, etc., come in contact with plastic parts. Chemicals can
damage, weaken, or destroy plastic which may result in serious personal
injury.
Periodically check all clamps, nuts, bolts, and screws for tightness and
condition. Make sure the throat plate is in good condition and in position.
Check the blade guard assembly for proper installation, fit, clearances, and
for free movement. Some wood types may cause a buildup of dust, pitch, or
resin on components, so regular maintenance and cleaning is recommended. Any
cleaner used must be appropriate for use on plastic parts.
Clean plastic parts only with a soft damp cloth. Do not use any aerosol or
petroleum solvents.
Protect the blade by cleaning out sawdust from underneath the table and in the
blade teeth. Clean blade teeth with a solvent recommended for gum and pitch
removal.
To maintain the table surfaces, fence, and rails, periodically apply paste wax
to them and buff to provide smooth functioning. To prevent work from slipping
during cutting operation, do not wax the working face of the miter gauge.
LUBRICATION
All of the bearings in this tool are lubricated with a sufficient amount of
high grade lubricant for the life of the unit under normal operating
conditions. Therefore, no further lubrication is required.
CLEANING THE RIVING KNIFE LOCK LEVER PLATES
See Figure 69. The lock lever on the riving knife may become difficult to lock
securely after extended use due to sawdust or debris falling into the plates.
Unplug the saw. Unlock the lever to remove the riving knife. Wipe the area
with a clean dry cloth or use compressed
air to blow away debris. Clean the riving knife. Reinstall the riving knife
and turn the lever to lock the
riving knife in place. NOTE: If the lock lever is difficult to move or will
not fully close after the plates have been cleaned, contact customer service.
WARNING:
Do not use the saw if the lock lever does not fully close. Doing so may cause
serious personal injury.
RIVING KNIFE
PLATES
LOCK LEVER
47 – English
Fig. 69
MAINTENANCE
DUST CHUTE
See Figure 70.
This saw features a dust chute for convenience in discharging sawdust. A
standard shop vac can be attached to the chute, located under the back side of
the saw.
During periods of extended use, the dust chute should be emptied and cleaned
to prevent buildup of sawdust and to make sure there are no obstructions or
other small offcuts that may have fallen into the throat plate opening that
could hinder maximum performance.
To clean the dust chute: Unplug the saw. Loosen the screw at the bottom of the
dust chute. Remove the cover. Shake out any sawdust and wipe with a clean dry
cloth,
as needed. Replace the cover and securely tighten the screw.
SCREW
DUST CHUTE
Fig. 70
ACCESSORIES
Look for these accessories where you purchased this product or call
1-800-525-2579: Dado Throat Plate
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….089240035708
WARNING:
Current attachments and accessories available for use with this product are
listed above. Do not use any attachments or accessories not recommended by the
manufacturer of this product. The use of attachments or accessories not
recommended can result in serious personal injury.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Excess vibration.
Cause
Blade is out of balance. Blade is damaged. Saw is not mounted securely. Work
surface is uneven.
Blade is warped.
Rip fence does not move smoothly. Rip fence not mounted correctly. Rails are dirty or sticky. Clamp screw is out of adjustment.
Rip fence does not lock at rear.
Clamp screw is out of adjustment.
Solution
Replace blade. Replace blade. Tighten all hardware. Reposition on flat
surface. Adjust legs of optional stand. Check saw blade installation. Replace
blade if necessary.
Remount the rip fence. Clean and wax rails. Adjust clamp screw
counterclockwise.
Adjust clamp screw clockwise.
48 – English
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Cause
Solution
Cutting binds or burns work.
Blade is dull. Blade is heeling.
Work is fed too fast. Rip fence is misaligned. Workpiece is warped.
Riving knife is out of alignment.
Replace or sharpen blade.
See Adjusting the Blade Parallel to the Miter Gauge Groove (Removing Heel).
Slow the feed rate.
Align the rip fence.
Replace the workpiece. Always cut with convex side to table surface.
See To Check and Align the Riving Knife and Saw Blade in the Assembly section.
Workpiece edges away from rip fence Blade not properly sharpened or set. when ripping.
Resharpen or set blade.
Saw does not make accurate 90° or Positive stops behind the front panel Adjust positive stops.
45° cuts.
need adjusting (Bevel Cuts).
Miter gauge is misaligned (Miter Cuts). Adjust the miter gauge.
Height/bevel adjusting hand-wheel Gears or screw post behind the front Clean the gears or screw post.
is hard to turn.
panel are clogged with sawdust.
Saw does not start.
Motor cord or wall cord is not plugged in. Plug in motor cord or wall cord.
Circuit fuse is blown.
Replace circuit fuse.
Circuit breaker is tripped.
Reset circuit breaker.
Cord or switch is damaged.
Have the cord or switch replaced at your nearest authorized service center.
Blade makes poor cuts.
Blade is dull or dirty.
Clean, sharpen, or replace blade.
Blade is wrong type for cut being made. Replace with correct type.
Blade is mounted backwards.
Remount blade.
Blade does not lower when turning Locking lever is not at full left position. Move locking lever to left. height/bevel adjusting handwheel.
Motor labors in rip cut.
Blade not proper for rip cut.
Change blade; rip blade typically has fewer teeth.
Blade coasts for longer than a few Electric brake may not be working Contact customer service. seconds after the saw is turned off. properly.
49 – English
RÈGLES DE SÉCURITÉ GÉNÉRALES
AVERTISSEMENT :
Lire les avertissements de sécurité, les instructions et les précisions et
consulter les illustrations fournis avec cet outil électrique. Le fait de ne
pas se conformer à l’ensemble des consignes présentées ci-dessous risque
d’entraîner des décharges électriques, un incendie et/ou des blessures graves.
Conserver les avertissements et les instructions à des fins de référence
ultérieure. Le terme « outil motorisé », utilisé dans tous les avertissements
ci-dessous désigne tout outil fonctionnant sur secteur (câblé) ou sur piles
(sans fil).
SÉCURITÉ DU LIEU DE TRAVAIL
Garder le lieu de travail propre et bien éclairé. Les endroits encombrés ou
sombre s sont propices aux accidents.
Ne pas utiliser d’outils électriques dans des atmosphères explosives, par
exemple en présence de liquides, gaz ou poussières inflammables. Les outils
électriques produisent des étincelles risquant d’enflammer les poussières ou
vapeurs.
Garder les enfants et badauds à l’écart pendant l’utilisation d’un outil
électrique. Les distractions peuvent causer une perte de contrôle.
SÉCURITÉ ÉLECTRIQUE
Les fiches des outils électriques doivent correspondre à la prise secteur
utilisée. Ne jamais modifier la fiche, de quelque façon que ce soit. Ne jamais
utiliser d’adaptateurs de fiche avec des outils mis à la terre. Les fiches et
prises non modifiées réduisent le risque de choc électrique.
Éviter tout contact du corps avec des surfaces mises à la terre, telles que
tuyaux, radiateurs, cuisinières et réfrigérateurs. Le risque de choc
électrique est accru lorsque le corps est mis à la terre.
Ne pas exposer les outils électriques à l’eau ou l’humidité. La pénétration
d’eau dans ces outils accroît le risque de choc électrique.
Ne pas maltraiter le cordon d’alimentation. Ne jamais utiliser le cordon
d’alimentation pour transporter l’outil et ne jamais débrancher ce dernier en
tirant sur le cordon. Garder le cordon à l’écart de la chaleur, de l’huile,
des objets tranchants et des pièces en mouvement. Un cordon endommagé ou
emmêlé accroît le risque de choc électrique.
Pour les travaux à l’extérieur, utiliser un cordon spécialement conçu à cet
effet. Utiliser un cordon conçu pour l’usage extrérieur pour réduire les
risques de choc électrique.
S’il est nécessaire d’utiliser l’outil électrique dans un endroit humide,
employer un dispositif interrupteur de défaut à la terre (GFCI). L’utilisation
d’un GFCI réduit le risque de décharge électrique.
SÉCURITÉ PERSONNELLE
Rester attentif, prêter attention au travail et faire preuve de bon sens lors
de l’utilisation de tout outil électrique. Ne pas utiliser cet outil en état
de fatigue ou sous l’influence de l’alcool, de drogues ou de médicaments. Un
moment d’inattention pendant l’utilisation d’un outil électrique peut
entraîner des blessures graves.
Utiliser l’équipement de sécurité. Toujours porter une protection oculaire.
L’équipement de sécurité, tel qu’un masque filtrant, de chaussures de
sécurité, d’un casque ou d’une protection auditive, utilisé dans des
conditions appropriées réduira le risque de blessures.
Éviter les démarrages accidentels. S’assurer que le commutateur est en
position d’arrêt avant de brancher l’outil et/ou bloc-piles. Porter un outil
avec le doigt sur son commutateur ou brancher un outil dont le commutateur est
en position de marche peut causer un accident.
Retirer les clés de réglage avant de mettre l’outil en marche. Une clé laissée
sur une pièce rotative de l’outil peut causer des blessures.
Ne pas travailler hors de portée. Toujours se tenir bien campé et en
équilibre. Ceci permettra de mieux contrôler l’outil en cas de situation
imprévue.
Porter une tenue appropriée. Ne porter ni vêtements amples, ni bijoux. Garder
les cheveux, les vêtements et les gants à l’écart des pièces en mouvement. Les
vêtements amples, bijoux et cheveux longs peuvent se prendre dans les pièces
en mouvement.
Si les outils sont équipés de dispositifs de dépoussiérage, s’assurer qu’ils
sont connectés et correctement utilisés. L’usage de ces dispositifs de
dépoussiérage peut réduire les dangers présentés par la poussière.
Malgré votre expérience acquise par l’utilisation fréquente des outils, soyez
toujours vigilant et respectez les principes de sécurité relatifs aux outils.
Il s’agit d’une fraction de seconde pour qu’un geste irréfléchi puisse causer
de graves blessures.
UTILISATION ET ENTRETIEN DES OUTILS ÉLECTRIQUES
Ne pas forcer l’outil. Utiliser l’outil approprié pour l’application. Un outil
approprié exécutera le travail mieux et de façon moins dangereuse s’il est
utilisé dans les limites prévues.
Ne pas utiliser l’outil si le commutateur ne permet pas de le mettre en marche
ou de l’arrêter. Tout outil qui ne peut pas être contrôlé par son commutateur
est dangereux et doit être réparé.
Avant de procéder à un réglage, à un changement d’accessoire ou au rangement
de l’outil, débranchez la prise de la source d’alimentation ou, si le bloc-
piles est amovible, retirez-le de l’outil. Ces mesures de sécurité préventives
réduisent les risques de démarrage accidentel de l’outil.
Ranger les outils motorisés hors de la portée des enfants et ne laisser
personne n’étant pas familiarisé avec l’outil ou ces instructions utiliser
l’outil. Dans les mains de
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RÈGLES DE SÉCURITÉ GÉNÉRALES
personnes n’ayant pas reçu des instructions adéquates, les outils sont
dangereux.
Entretenir les outils motorisés et accessoires. Vérifier qu’aucune pièce
mobile n’est mal alignée ou bloquée, qu’aucune pièce n’est brisée et s’assurer
qu’aucun autre problème ne risque d’affecter le bon fonctionnement de l’outil.
En cas de dommages faire réparer l’outil avant de l’utiliser de nouveau.
Beaucoup d’accidents sont causés par des outils mal entretenus.
Garder les outils bien affûtés et propres. Des outils correctement entretenus
et dont les tranchants sont bien affûtés risquent moins de se bloquer et sont
plus faciles à contrôler.
Utiliser l’outil, les accessoires et embouts, etc. conformément à ces
instrutions pour les applications
pour lesquelles ils sont conçus, en tenant compte des conditions et du type de
travail à exécuter. L’usage d’un outil motorisé pour des applications pour
lesquelles il n’est pas conçu peut être dangereux. Gardez les poignées et les
surfaces de prise sèches, propres et exemptes d’huile et de graisse. Des
poignées et des surfaces de prise glissantes empêchent la manipulation et le
contrôle sécuritaires de l’outil dans des circonstances imprévues.
DÉPANNAGE
Les réparat ions doivent être confiées à un technicien qualifié, utilisant
exclusivement des pièces identiques à celles d’origine. Ceci assurera le
maintien de la sécurité de l’outil.
RÈGLES DE SÉCURITÉ SCIE À TABLE
PROTÈGE-LAME, COUTEAU DIVISEUR ET PROCÉDURES DE COUPE
CLIQUETS ANTIREBOND
Laisser les protecteurs en place. Les protecteurs doivent être en bon état de
marche et être bien installés. Un protecteur lâche, endommagé ou qui ne
fonctionne pas correctement doit être réparé ou remplacé.
Toujours utiliser le protège-lame, le couteau diviseur et les cliquets
antirebond pour chaque coupe complète. Pour les coupes complètes où la lame
coupe l’épaisseur entière de la pièce à travailler, le protecteur et les
autres dispositifs de sécurité aident à réduire le risque de blessures.
DANGER : Ne jamais placer les doigts ou les mains à proximité de la lame ou
dans la ligne de coupe. Un moment d’inattention ou un glissement peut diriger
votre main vers la lame, ce qui peut provoquer des blessures graves.
Pousser la pièce à travailler vers la lame dans le sens inverse de la
rotation. Pousser la pièce à travailler dans la même direction que la rotation
de la lame au-dessus de la table peut tirer la pièce, et votre main, vers la
lame.
Ne jamais utiliser un guide d’onglet pour pousser le
morceau la pièce à travailler lors de la refente et ne pas
Immédiatement rattacher le système de protection après
une coupe (tels que les biseaux, les rainures ou les
refentes) qui requiert d’enlever le protecteur, le couteau diviseur ou les
cliquets antirebond. Le protège-lame, le couteau diviseur et les cliquets
antirebond aident à réduire le risque de blessures.
utiliser le guide longitudinal comme arrêt de longueur
lorsqu’on coupe transversalement avec le guide d’onglet. Guider la pièce à
travailler à la fois avec le guide longitudinal et le guide d’onglet augmente
la probabilité de grippage et de rebond.
Lors de la refente, toujours appliquer la force pour pousser
S’assurer que la lame ne touche pas au protège-lame, au
couteau diviseur ou à la pièce à travailler avant d’allumer l’interrupteur. Un
contact accidentel de ces éléments avec la lame pourrait causer des conditions
dangereuses.
Ajuster le couteau diviseur conformément aux instructions du manuel. Un
mauvais espacement, positionnement ou alignement peut rendre le couteau
diviseur inefficace en réduisant la probabilité d’un rebond.
Pour que le couteau diviseur et les cliquets antirebond
fonctionnent, ils doivent être pris dans la pièce à travailler. Le couteau
diviseur et les cliquets antirebond sont inefficace lorsqu’on coupe des pièces
à travailler trop petites pour être prises avec le couteau diviseur et les
cliquets antirebond. Sous ces conditions, un rebond ne peut être empêché par
couteau diviseur et les cliquets antirebond.
Utiliser la bonne lame pour le couteau diviseur. Pour que le couteau diviseur
fonctionne correctement, le diamètre de la lame doit correspondre au bon
couteau, le corps de la lame doit être plus étroit que l’épaisseur du couteau
et l’épaisseur de la coupe de la lame doit être plus large que l’épaisseur du
couteau.
la pièce à travailler entre le guide et la lame. Utiliser un
poussoir lorsque la distance entre le guide et la lame est
inférieure à 150 mm, et utiliser un bloc poussoir lorsque la distance est
inférieure à 50 mm. Les dispositifs d’aide au travail garderont vos mains à
une distance sécuritaire de la lame.
Utiliser seulement le poussoir fourni par le fabricant ou construit
conformément aux instructions. Ce poussoir offre une distance suffisante entre
la main et la lame.
Ne jamais utiliser un poussoir endommagé ou coupé. Un poussoir endommagé peut
briser et faire glisser votre main sur la lame.
Ne pas faire de coupe « à main levée ». Toujours utiliser
le guide longitudinal ou le guide d’onglet pour placer et guider la pièce à
travailler. « À main levée » signifie l’utilisation des mains pour soutenir ou
guider la pièce à travailler au lieu d’un guide longitudinal ou d’onglet. La
coupe « à main levée » provoque un mauvais alignement, du grippage et un
rebond.
Ne jamais tenter de passer autour ou par-dessus une lame qui tourne. Tenter
d’atteindre la pièce à travailler
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RÈGLES DE SÉCURITÉ SCIE À TABLE
ainsi peut provoquer un contact accidentel avec la lame en mouvement.
Assurer un soutien auxiliaire pour la pièce à travailler
à l’arrière ou sur les côtés de la scie à table pour les
morceaux longs ou larges pour qu’ils restent de niveau. Les pièces à
travailler longues ou larges ont tendance à pivoter sur le bord de la table,
provoquant une perte de contrôle, ou un grippage ou un rebond de la lame.
Pousser la pièce à travailler à une vitesse égale. Ne
pas plier ou tourner la pièce à travailler. Si un blocage
survient, éteindre immédiatement l’outil, le débrancher et dégager le blocage.
Un blocage de la lame en raison du morceau peut provoquer un rebond ou faire
caler le moteur.
Ne pas retirer les morceaux de matériau coupé pendant que la lame tourne. Le
matériau peut rester coincé entre le guide ou l’intérieur du protège-lame et
la lame, tirant vos doigts vers la lame. Éteindre la scie et attendre que la
lame cesse de bouger avant de retirer le matériau.
Utiliser un guide auxiliaire en contact avec le dessus de
la table lors de la refente de pièces à travailler de moins de 2 mm
d’épaisseur. Une pièce à travailler mince peut se coincer sous le guide
longitudinal et créer un rebond.
REBOND
Le rebond est une réaction soudaine de la pièce à travailler en raison d’une
lame coincée, pincée ou d’une ligne de coupe mal alignée avec la lame, ou
lorsqu’une partie de la pièce à travailler grippe entre la lame et le guide
longitudinal ou un autre objet fixe.
Plus fréquemment durant un rebond, la pièce à travailler est soulevée de la
table par la portion arrière de la lame et projetée vers l’utilisateur.
Le rebond est le résultat d’une mauvaise utilisation ou de procédures
d’utilisation ou de conditions incorrectes, et peut être évité en prenant les
précautions nécessaires énumérées ci-dessous.
Ne jamais se tenir directement aligné avec la lame.
Toujours placer le corps du même côté de la lame que le guide. Un rebond peut
propulser la pièce à travailler à grande vitesse vers quiconque se tient
devant et aligné avec la lame.
Ne jamais tenter de passer par-dessus ou vers l’arrière
de la lame pour tirer ou soutenir la pièce à travailler. Un contact accidentel
avec la lame peut se produire ou un rebond peut attirer vos doigts sur la
lame.
Ne jamais tenir la pièce à travailler et appuyer dessus contre
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