instructables LEVITATING BANANA Electromagnetic Levitation Instruction Manual
- June 9, 2024
- instructables
Table of Contents
instructables LEVITATING BANANA Electromagnetic Levitation
LEVITATING BANANA – Electromagnetic Levitation
- by ElectroBing
I shall be demonstrating how to levitate a banana.
Your first thought would be, “Why?”. How often do you see objects floating in
thin air, and how often do you see a banana boating in thin air? Being able to
levitate an object is impressive and can amuse your peers. You can learn a lot
about electronics and gain practical knowledge from building this
project(which is relatively easy to make),. Personally, I learned quite a lot
from it. Supplies: Materials I Used:
Tools
- Soldering Supplies
- Suitable Power Supply(6v-12v)
- Multimeter
- Rotary tool
- Pliers, Wire Strippers, and Other Handheld Tools Insulation tape
- Two compound adhesive
- Super glue
The Circuit:–
-
10k Potentiometer x 1
-
S49E Hall Effect Sensor x 1
-
2N2222A NPN Transistor x 1
-
D2394 or TIP41C NPN Transistor with Heatsink x 1 LM358 Dual Op Amp IC x 1
-
2200uf 25v Capacitor x 1
-
7805 Voltage Regulator x 1
-
Perfboard
-
Jumper wire
-
3-pin JST x 1
-
2-pin Terminal Connectors x 21N4007 Diode x 1 1k Ohm Resistor x 1 220 Ohm Resistor X 2 Electromagnet
-
22 gauge enameled copper wire
-
Solid iron core(1/2 inch diameter iron nut and bolt)
The Structure to Hold the Electromagnet
- A couple of Pieces of Wooden planks(| will specify dimensions later)
- Plastic enclosure for circuit 10cmx1Ocmx5cm(4″x4″x2″)
INSTALLATION
Step 1: The Principal Behind This
The electromagnet connected to the circuit is held upside down. The hall effect sensor is also placed underneath the electromagnet as shown in the above “detailed” ilustration. When a magnet(preferably neodymium) is placed under the electromagnet which is initially turned on attracts the neodymium magnet toward itself. As soon as the magnet gets closer to the electromagnet, the hall effect sensor detects the presence of the magnetic field of the neodymium magnet causing a decrease in the sensor’s output voltage. Oncethe output voltage decreases to a point less than the threshold voltage(voltage set by potentiometer), the main circuit cuts power to the electromagnet, causing its electromagnetic feld to disrupt. This causes the neodymium magnet to fall due to gravity. Once the neodymium magnet moves down a bit, the output voltage of the sensor increases. When the voltage increases above the threshold voltage, the main circuit powers the electromagnet again, causing the magnet to rise up again. This process occurs repeatedly allowing the magnet to LEVITATE.
Step 2: Circuit-Theory
Now I will be giving a detailed explanation of the circuit. The Circuit is
powered by a voltage source of 6 to 12 volts, and the logic of the comparator
works only at 5 volts, so we use the regulator to step down the voltage to 5
volts. The circuit can be divided into two parts-the right side powered with 5
volts controlling the logic and the left side powered with VCC controlling the
switching of the electromagnet.
The Right Side
On this side, we have a comparator, a 10k potentiometer, and the hall effect
sensor powered with the 5v. The output of the hall effect sensor goes to the
non-inverting(+) input of the LM358, which I am using here as a comparator,
and the output of the potentiometer goes into the inverting(-) side of the
comparator. (CCoommppaarraattoorr- It compares the two voltage inputs. If the
voltage at the non-inverting input(+) is higher than the inverting input(-),
it gives 5v at its output. If the voltage at the non-inverting input is lower
than the inverting input, it gives 0v at its output.) Normally, the output of
the hall effect sensor is 2.5v and the output of the potentiometer is slightly
lesser than 2.5v. Thus, the comparator gives an output of 5v. When a neodymium
magnet with its North pole facing toward the sensor is placed, the output
voltage of the sensor decreases. When it decreases below the output voltage of
the potentiometer, the output of the comparator reduces to 0v.
The Left Side
The output of the Lm358 did not seem to be enough to directly control the base
of the transistor D2394, which controls the electromagnet. So, the output from
the comparator is first amplified by the 2N2222A, which then controls the base
of the D2394, which in turn switches on and off the electromagnet. There is
also a fiyback diode to prevent the transistor from being damaged by the
inductive fiyback of the electromagnet. An led in series with a resistor is
also placed parallel to the electromagnet to indicate if it is being powered.
LEVITATING BANANA – Electromagnetic Levitation: Page 3
Step 3: Circuit-Building
I gathered all the parts required for the circuit as per my schematic and
started soldering. When soldering, precaution must be taken not to breathe the
toxic soldering fumes. Generally, a fan is used to blow them away but a fume
extractor would be preferable. I used terminal contacts for the power, the
electromagnet, and the high current transistor(to easily replace it if needed)
and used a three-pin JST connector to connect the hall effect sensor. Please
attach a heat sink to the larger transistor, as it can generate a LOT of heat.
Also, use some thermal paste to increase its thermal conductivity. You can
follow my layout and solder traces, which I have shown above. I used thin
traces to represent jumper wires connecting on the upper side of the perf
board. Note: If you are using the TIP41C, replace R3 with a lower resistance
value, as the current gain of TIP41c is comparatively lower than the D2394. I
recommend you try the circuit first on a breadboard before building it on the
perf board as I had to build the circuit twice on a perf board for it to
work(don’t be dumb like me). With the circuit in the breadboard or the perf
board, connect the wires of just the sensor and power it with 6v. Don’t
connect the electromagnet yet. Adjust the potentiometer just until the LED
begins to light up. Now when you bring the North pole of the magnet close to
the sensor, the LED should turn off.
Step 4: The Electromagnet
You can easily buy a premade electromagnet, but a better and stronger one can
be made for cheaper prices. For my electromagnet, I used 22 gauge wire and
wrapped it around an iron bolt as shown above. It is important for the core of
the magnet to be Iron. Using Steel bolts would not work as an electromagnet
with a steel core can retain its magnetic properties even after switching it
off. While building the electromagnet, you need to keep in mind that it must
be hung upside down, for it to be able to levitate magnets. You can come up
with your own creative ideas to do this. I built the electromagnet such that I
could attach a piece of wood with a larger surface area than the electromagnet
to it. This piece of wood would hold the electromagnet upside down(It will be
demonstrated in the next step). Once the electromagnet is done, make sure the
wire has not been cut off anywhere using the continuity tester on your
multimeter. You can even test the electromagnet’s strength using an adjustable
power supply. I built two of these electromagnets, one with more turns with a
larger resistance, and one with fewer turns and less resistance
.
Step 5: The Electromagnet Mount
I used a 7cm(3in.)x3cm(1 1/4in.) wooden plank I had laying around and cut two
pieces 22cm(9in.)and 28cm(11in.) long. On the smaller piece of wood, I drilled
a hole with a diameter slightly longer than the diameter of the electromagnet.
I first used my rotary tool to make guiding holes for two wood screws to
attach both pieces. I also used some wood glue and attached both pieces as
shown in the above image. I spray-painted them to make them seem more
appealing. They did not turn out how I wanted them to but still looked way
better than what I used to have, so I left them as it is. I got afiat 1cm
thick, piece of wood(which I also spray painted), drilled two small holes and
screwed the base of the longer piece of wood to the flat piece of wood.
Step 6: Testing the Circuit
Place the electromagnet on its mount and stick the sensor with tape under the
electromagnet, centered and over a piece of foam as shown above. The piece of
foam is to prevent the magnet from directly attaching itself to the iron core
of the electromagnet. The thickness of the foam can vary for each
electromagnet, so I recommend you experiment with it and try which one works
best. I used some insulation tape to temporarily hold the sensor. Now that you
have made sure the circuit is working connect the electromagnet to it and
power it with a voltage of 6-9v. I recommend starting at 6v. Hold a neodymium
magnet under the electromagnet and slowly and carefully adjust the
potentiometer, till the magnet begins to vibrate and then
slowly…..LLEEVVIITTAATTEE. This might take a few tries, so I would suggest
being patient. If it does not work, the electromagnet’s polarity could have
been reversed, just change it back on the circuit. It’s also a good time to
label the leads of the electromagnet. It must work now. Tracking the current
of the circuit can be helpful, to make sure the electromagnet is drawing
enough current. The transistor does seem to heat quite a lot, even after
attaching a heatsink to it, so it is best not to run the circuit for too long.
Both the electromagnets worked, but the larger one worked better, so I will be
using it. This test was done with my old circuit as you can see in the video.
Now that the levitation works, let’s make it permanent and look appealing.
LEVITATING BANANA – Electromagnetic Levitation: Page 14
Step 7: Attaching the Sensor
I cut out a piece of cardboard in the shape of a circle, with a diameter 2mm
larger than the electromagnet. I removed the top 2 layers of the cardboard as
shown above for the sensor to fit in. I also used two compound adhesives to
hold the sensor in place(while doing this make sure the labeled part of the
sensor is facing outward). For aesthetic purposes, I stuck a piece of round
black paper over the sensor. I also cut a piece of cardboard used some force
to make it curve and wrapped it around the electromagnet. I used some tape for
it to hold its cylindrical shape. I used some super glue to stick the
cylindrical piece on the circular piece of cardboard on its side opposite the
sensor. I later twisted the wires of the sensor and added a piece of heat-
shrink close to the sensor, and stuck it to the side of the cylindrical piece
using super glue. The sensor part was done. The piece of cardboard fit
perfectly and tightly over the electromagnet and even let me adjust the
distance of the sensor to the electromagnet.
Step 8: Circuit Enclosure
I got a project box(4″x4″x2″), to safely keep the circuit inside. I connected
a female DC jack to the power, connected two wires to the led, and extended
the wires of the hall effect sensor. The potentiometer needs to be accessible
as the threshold voltage needs to be adjusted for different magnets with
different strengths of magnetic fields and different weights. Using my rotary
tool, I drilled out holes for the potentiometer, LED, DC jack, and holes for
the wires of the sensor and the electromagnet. I placed the circuit board
inside the box using double-sided tape, put the potentiometer with just its
knob sticking outside, and stuck the DC jack on their respective holes using
some hot glue. The hole was just the right size for the LED to tightly fit in.
It is also a good idea to drill out ventilation holes for the heatsink, to
help prevent it from overheating. A much better option would be to add a small
computer fan blowing towards it. I covered the lid and screwed back the
screws.
Step 9: BANANA
Now that everything was complete, it is time to get to the main objective of
this project……LLEEVVIITTAATTIINNGG BBAANNAANNAA……To balance the weight of the
banana, I needed a stronger neodymium magnet. I did not insert the magnet
inside the banana as I still wanted to eat it, so just used some tape to
attach the magnet to the banana.
Step 10: Some Observations
Magnetic Strength
The strength of the electromagnet is directly proportional to the distance
between the levitating magnet and the electromagnet(the more strength the more
distance).
Object Weight
The weight of the object is inversely proportional to the distance between
the levitating object(the more weight the less distance) and the electromagnet
and is directly proportional to the amount of current drawn by the
electromagnet(the more weight the more current drawn). A key observation I
have made is that the shape of the magnet seems to matter too as the spherical
magnet seemed to be the most stable one compared to the others.
Step 11: HAVE FUN!
I have had so much fun building this project and also learned so much from it.
I hope you do too. If you have any doubts or questions just leave them down in
the comments, I will try my best to answer each one of them. I would also like
to disclose that I am no professional circuit designer or product maker, I am
merely just a hobbyist using the knowledge I have and there are definitely way
better and more eficient ways of making the same project. However, this is
mine and I am proud of it. It also demonstrates the main thing I love about my
hobby, there are just so many ways one can make the same project, exploring
their own creative ideas and gaining more and more knowledge along the way.
References
- Yours for the making - Instructables
- LEVITATING BANANA - Electromagnetic Levitation : 11 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
- ElectroBing's Profile - Instructables
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