Owner’s Manual
for 9 foot— 1 7 footModels

9Foot Boat

WELCOME
Congratulations! You nave just taken of a boat of exceptional quality.Since 1958 Boston Wheler has been designing and manufracturiag safe, Fuel efficient, stable boats for virtually every marine use. All Bostom Whaler boats are built to the same uncompromising standards as the one you now own and are being used throught the world for sportfishing, pleaseure-cruising, Coast Gurd Rescue, Fire Boats, Petrol Boats for the Army and Navy, Commercial Workboats, Airport Resque, resort rentals and on and on.
As you cruise the waters, you’ll uudoubtedly see many other discriminating Boston Whaler owners. A tip of your cap and a hearty wave are the signal that you’re part of the Bosten Whater Family.
Before you take your first cruise or head for the lurking fish at your favorite fishing spot, take time to read this manual and get fully acquainted with your new boat. We’ve designed this manual to help you understand the operation and features of your boat. While no manual can anticipate every possible question or situation, we’ve tried to answer most questions likely to arise. Your dealer is an important link in preparing your boat for delivery and providing local service for all your boating needs. Consult him first should any questions arise.
This manual does not go into all aspects of safe boating or various State and Federal regulations. Included in your owner’s packaging is a U.S. Coast Guard pamphlet explsing some knowledgeable and safe boater will increase your enjoyment. Contact your local Power Squadron, U.S. Coast Guard, or the Bureau that registers your boat for more information on your local boating regulations.
We’re pleased you’ve chosen a Boston Whaler and we wish you many years of enjoyment on the water.

Sincerely,
BOSTON WHALER
Cugtomer Service

Nothing contained in this User Manual should be construed ta create any implied or explicit warranty. The sole warranty o f Boston Whaler, Inc. with respect to your boat is described i n the Limited Warranty provided with your boat.

Operations

ENGINE INSTALLATION
In most cases, the dealer will have installed your Outboard motor, following all the prescribed practices b y Boston Whaler and the engine manufacturer, Should you be making the installation yourself, the following is a quide.
9’, 1 1 ’ , 13’, 15’, and 1 7 ’ — On alt models , Outboard engines should be clamped directly onto the transom. On 9’, 11’ and 13’ models used as tenders where low horsepower engines may be removed frequently, some elect to install an aluminum plate on the transorn interior. The use of Rubber transom protectors is discouraged as they may ride up on t h e smooth gelcoat surface causing potential loss of the engine,
The transom coreissolid plywood with a thick layer of fiberglass on the inside and out, Engines, when clamped tightly, will bite into this fiberglass , providing good holding for the engine. Engine clamps should be checked and retightened fre – quently, especially during the first several hours of operation.
11‘, 13’, 15’, and 17’ modeis, with higher horsepower engines, require engines to be bolted onto the transom in addition to clamping, This is no problern as in most cases the engine splash well is sufficiently deep. 17 foot models with larger engines containing deeper mounting brackets will not be able to use the normal lower bolt holes. Most engine manufacturers provide an upper optional hole or a blind threaded hole in the engine bracket lower hole group. Check with your Boston Whaler or Engine dealer.
On 13’ models (prior to 1986) the transom is slightly curved. If on larger, newer engines there is a space between the engine bracket and the transom, washers can be used to fill the space to prevent bending or placing too much pressure on the engine bracket when the bolts are tightened up. 13 ‘models after 1986 have a flat raised area on the transom for engine mounting.
TILT PIN and POWER TILT & TRIM
The engine tilt p i n adjustment influences both the boats handling and riding char-acteristic as well as steering loads.

On boats not equipped with power tilt and trim, the tilt pin should be set so the cavitation plate of the engine is parallel with the bottom of the boat. When the engine is moved closer to the transom, it will depress the bow, making the boat slower. When moving the tilt pin away from the transom, the bow will become lighter, increasing performance and engine efficiency. You will have to experiment with tilt pin adjustment to optimize the setting based on your boat and normal load conditions.
Power Trim and Tilt – All Models
All higher horsepower engines are equipped with power tilt and trim. The trim control is usually built into the engine control handle or mounted as a separate switch on the console dash panel. Power trim adjusts the engine angle to compensate for changing load and sea conditions. However, Improper use of power trim will-affect engine efficiency, steering pull, cavitation, hull him and riding characteristics.
The proper use of power trim will enable the boat to plane faster and consume fuel more efficiently. Start with the engine trimmed in; this will depress the bow and lift the stern, allowing a faster plane. Once, on plane, the engine can be trimmed out to raise or lighten the bow. You will see how the boat planes much cleaner. This can be seen dramatically if you observe from another boat or the shore. Experiment with engine trim until the boat is riding comfortably and without steering pull. Over/under trimming will result in steering pull and bow light/bow heavy running characteristics.
TRIM TAB ADJUSTMENT
On larger Outboard motors, there is a steering trim tab located on the bottom of the cavitation plate, just aft of the propeller. It is adjustable and has been installed on the engine to correct for propeller torque.
Adjustment of the trim tab should be done after you’ve gone through the steps of proper tilt and adjustment.
The boat should be operated with a normal load on board in a straight line. Incorrect trim tab adjustment will cause the boat to turn to the left or to the right when your hands are re-moved from the steering wheel. Be careful when removing your hands from the wheel; a trim tab incorrectly positioned may cause the boat to turn violently.

To adjust the trim tab, loosen the securing bolt, as per the engine man- ufacturer’s instructions, and move the trim tab in the direction the boat pulls. For example, if the boat pulls to starboard, move the trailing edge of the trim tab to starboard. Make these adjustments in small increments and test the results. The object is to create a “hands off straight line” steering condition for the normal operating speed. It is not possible to eliminate steering pull throughout the entire speed range.
Remember, tilt adjustment may affect steering torque as much as the trim tab. With Outboard engines equipped with power trim this becomes particularly important. When under way, experiment with tilt setting to neutralize steering pull.
HULL TRIM
Most 9-17′ models ride best with weight positioned from mid-ship aft. Sitting on the bow locker area while underway or when the boat is on plane is not recom-mended. Weight in this area will cause the boat to “plow” through the water at less than planing speeds and on plane the bow area is the roughest riding position on any boat. CAUTION: Do not install optional bow deck cushion on any boat which is not equipped with a bow rail.
9′ Tender
Weight on these models should be balanced evenly between the rear platform and thwart seat. When loading gear, it should be kept low in the boat to lower the center of gravity. Rowing the 9′ tender can be done from either the forward or middle oar lock position depending on load balance.
11 foot Models
When using small horsepower engines, weight should be balanced between the center thwart seat and rear platform. On sport models, with 15 to 20 horsepower engines, weight, including passengers and fuel tanks, should be moved aft for best performance. The 11 foot Super Sport model has room behind the seat back for battery and fuel -tank storage.
13 foot Models
All 13 foot models should have weight aft during high speed operation. In choppy water, when running slow, shift weight to obtain a comfortable ride based on sea conditions. To much weight forward will result in spray coming aboard. Too much weight aft may reduce spray but result in an uncomfortable ride. Adjust speed and weight so the boat is nearly level. When operating into a strong head wind move weight forward to reduce bow feathering and the possibility of becoming air borne. When running alone Into a chop or head wind, adjust the tilt pin one notch doser to the transom to keep the bow down.
15 foot Models
All 15 Whalers have a sharper bow entry resulting in a softer ride in chop conditions. Weight should be aft or in the middle of the boat for best ride at higher speeds., Because of a redefinition of horsepower by engine manufacturers, your 15 Whaler is a high performance boat when equipped with the maximum 70 h.p. engine. Any operator should be properly trained for the use of a high performance boat. When running aloneat high speed DO NOT trim the engine too far out from the transom or dangerous chine walking conditions (side to side rhythmic motion) could result. Moving passengers forward to the thwart seat will result in better performance. NEVER TAKE YOUR BOAT TO THE POINT WHERE YOU DO NOT FEEL IN CONTROL
17 foot Models
All Whaler 17 foot models should be run with the bow light and high for a comfort-able ride. This trim will also produce faster and more efficient engine speeds. 17′ models are affected by weight trim. To raise the bow, move passengers aft, adjust engine trim farther away from the transom, or slow down. In crosswind, the boat may lean to windward with consequent wetness. Shift weight accordingly to compensate. With high horsepower engines which create considerable propeller torque, it is not unusual to have a slight port list at planing speeds. Compensate with a passenger on the starboard side of the Montauk model. Mounting a transducer or 6″ fixed trim tab on the port side will also improve the hull trim and counteract propeller torque.
PROPELLER SELECTION
To judge performance of your boat/engine combination a tachometer is necessary. These are available from the engine manufacturer or are available as part of Boston Whalers optional instrument panel. Some dealers are equipped with portable units, and all dealers should “Tack-Out” a new engine installation to make sure engine and boat are performing satisfactorily.
When selecting the correct propeller, tell your dealer what type of boating you will be doing. Will you be carrying a heavy load or light load? Do you need acceleration for water skiing or top speed with light loads? These are important factors for proper propeller selection.

The correct propeller diameter and pitch should permit the engine to attain max-imum rated R.P.M. with the anticipated load. The engine owners manual will tell you the minimum and maximum operating R.P.M. Do not choose propellers which will allow engine to exceed the maximum R.P.M.
The correct propeller will not only give you good performance but will save you fuel and reduce engine wear as well.
STEERING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
(1) 11′ and 13′ Models
Cable and pulley steering is used on the Sport 11. We have used this dependable system for many years on 13′ models. All earlier 13′ Sport models are equipped with cable and pulley steering. As outboard engine manufacturers have made through tilt tube steering available on lower horsepower engines, we have equipped newer (1981 and later) 13′ models with mechanical steering. All 11 and 13 foot models, whether equipped with cable and pulley steering or mechanical steering systems, need periodic adjustment and replacement of components to avoid unexpected loss of steering.
(a) Steering systems 1972 to 1981 — 11′ Models and 13′ Models with 20″ Transom.

These boats are equipped with a single large spring on the starboard side of the engine. DO NOT Install a spring on the port side as unexpected over steering in port turns could occur. On 11 foot models the spring should be adjusted to half its length with the engine in its normal running position. This will give satisfactory steering response. On 13 foot models with 20″ transoms the spring should be compressed to 3/4 its normal length with the engine In its normal running position. When the engine is tilted up the spring will relax, absorbing the excess cable. If proper tension is not maintained, the cable will loosen and come off the grooved steerer drum.
(b) Cable and Pulley Steering Maintenance
The tiller cable has a nylon covering over a stainless core. Tiller cable should be checked on a regular basis for any cracking in the nylon covering which will allow water to enter causing corrosion of the cable and ultimate cable failure. Any worn spots on the nylon cover would also indicate replacement is necessary. Replacement cable can be obtained from your Boston Whaler dealer. Do not use cable with a vinyl cover as it will not stand up in use.

Pulleys should be lubricated periodically, using graphite, marine grease or 30 weight oil. This will ensure they continue to work freely and prevent cable wear. Pulley pins (see diagram) should also be inspected for wear and replaced if wear is noted.
(II) Mechanical Steering System — 13′, 15′, and 17′ Models
All 13, 15, and 17 foot models are equipped with mechanical steering. In most cases your Boston Whaler dealer will have connected your steering to the engine using the appropriate drag link and the steering cable will be secured through the engine tilt tube in accordance with the steerer manufaCturer’s instructions. For further information on installation refer to the steerer manufacturer’s instructions provided in your owner’s package.
Mechanical steering cables are a vinyl jacketed steel core material Any cracks or abrasion in the vinyl jacket will cause swelling of the core and resultant hard steering. Therefore, if any cracks or abrasions are noted on periodic inspection, the cable should be replaced. If any change in steering or steering loads occur, check with your dealer immediately. Remember, steering is critical to your safe operation of the boat at any speed.
ENGINE CONTROLS
On 11′, 13′, 15′, Sport, Super Sport and all Limited models standard engine manufacturer’s side mount controls should be installed on the mahogany seat hold down board or fiberglass side panel on Limited Models. These controls are equipped with a starter safety switch which prevents starting the engine in gear. The control must be in the neutral position to start. This is an important safety feature. Should the boat start in gear, have your Boston Whaler dealer check out the control.

On the 17′ Super Sport, side mount controls can be installed on the vertical panel just to the right of the steering wheel. It is also possible to install a single level binnacle control on top of the con-sole. We offer this type of control with tilt and trim built into the control handle or the standard Morse single lever control with a separate trim switch mounted on the console dash.
Striper 15′, Striper 17′, Newport 17′, and Montauk 17′ models must be equipped with a binnacle mount control. We offer both the Morse single level control and Morse single lever control with tilt and trim in the handle as a control option.
Control cables are plastic jacketed. You should ensure that all bends are gradual (5 inch radius minimum) and that there are cuts or worn spots in the cable jacket. Tight bends will result in stiff operation of the controls. A break in the cable jacket will result in cable failure. Cables should be checked every time you use your boat, if any abnormality exists, have the control system inspected by a dealer.
BATTERY and V.R.O. (Variable Ratio Oiling) TANK INSTALLATION
As a general rule, batteries on Boston Whalers should be located aft for best weight trim. This is also the softest riding portion of the boat where there is less danger of the battery bouncing, being damaged, or spilled acid.
Provision has been made on all Boston Whalers for the installation of battens and V.R.O. tanks. This is in the form of a special wood pad molded under the fiberglass floor to accept the screw fastenings of the battery hold down clamps. Represented below are installations, consult your wood locating diagram (Included in Owner’s Package with boat) for exact location of the wood mounting.
Mounting the battery hold down or V.R.O. tank where they do not secure into wood will result in the fastenings tearing through the fiberglass.
Batteries should always be enclosed in covered battery box as shown. Some V.R.O. tanks will also fit into battery boxes. It is important that a battery hold-down strap prevent the battery and battery box from moving to avoid wear on the gelcoat surface. We recommend the use of our battery box and heavy-duty toggled, hold-down strap.

On the 9′ Tender no provision for battery mounting has been made. These models are equipped with low horsepower engines which do not have electric start features. Their general use as dinghies rarely require navigation lights. If lights are necessary, you will find the use of portable clamp-on flash light battery operated lights easier than equipping these models with permanently installed batteries.

11 foot Models
should have the battery located on the port rear floor just forward of the molded in stem seat — check your wood locating diagram. The 11′ Super Sport has wood molded in the rear floor just behind the thwart seat and seat back for battery installation.
13 foot Models
hav4 wood molded in the boat directly forward of the rear drain sump. The battery should be mounted with its long axis athwartship to provide room for a 6 gallon tank on either side. If engine is equipped with a V.R.O. tank, the tank should be mounted on the starboard rear floor. In this case, only one 6 gallon tank will fit.
15 foot Models have full floor wood so battery and V.R.O. tank placement can be flexible. Most elect to place the battery with its long axis fore and aft just to starboard of the off set rear drain sump. Mounted in this position, there is room for 6 gallon fuel tanks on either side. On the 15 Striper model, batteries are best placed on the port floor behind the optional rear pedestal seat. V.R.O. tank can be mounted on the rear floor or inside the storage box on Super Sport models.
17 foot Models also are equipped with full floor wood which provides flexibility in battery and V.R.O. tank placement Most elect to place the battery on the port rear floor where it is close to the terminal block and stem light This shortens wiring runs. Some elect to place the battery on or just forward of the wooden sump cover. This is also a good location as it is on the center line of the boat and will not affect hull trim when at rest. On the Montauk 17 some have elected to install batteries inside the console. We are not in favor of this location as it complicates the rigging, is hard to service the battery, and unless the floor of the console is reinforced, can damage the console floor. More importantly, all batteries give off gas which could be explosive under certain conditions and gases could shorten the life of electrical wiring connectors inside the console. V.R.O. tanks can be placed inside the console on Montauk models, placed on the port rear floor, or on Super Sport and Limited models, in the storage box.
On the Newport 17′, equipped with the optional stem deck, there is room under the deck to mount the battery on the port rear floor.
AUXILIARY ENGINES
An auxiliary engine will not give 9′ — 17′ boats sufficient power to plane. It will provide emergency back-up power should the main engine fail. Auxiliary engines should be equipped with a low pitch propeller to provide operating performance of about six to ten miles per hour.
With the auxiliary engine mounted off center and its limited power, use in heavy sea conditions can be difficult. We do not recommend the complication of attempting to mount a tie bar and separate controls to the auxiliary engine.
For close maneuvering around docks it is easier to step to the stem and control steering, throttle and shifting of the auxiliary engine. During rough running with the auxiliary engine up, you may want to lock the engine in the up position to prevent it from inadvertently bouncing out of its tilt lock and dropping down.
13 foot Models
All 13’s with 20″ transoms have wood molded into the port side of the transom for clamping auxiliary engines directly on to the transom. Some earlier 13’s are also equipped with these features. Check your wood diagram os the factory for the exact location. The auxiliary engine must be long shaft (20 inches). Clamps should be checked frequently to ensure tightness.

15 foot Models
All 15 foot models require a special optional auxil-iary engine bracket, part

15-0321-00 for mounting an auxiliary engine. This bracket attaches into the

engine mount transom wood and off-sets the auxiliary engine.

17 foot Models
All 17 foot models have wood molded into the upper starboard transom. Auxiliary engines can be clamped directly onto this area without the use of special pads. The auxiliary engine must be long shaft (20 inches) to ensure proper cooling of the engine and bite into the water in rough water operation.
The engine will cant inward because of the curved angle of the top transom surface. This will do no harm, however, a small shim can be placed under the starboard engine bracket to raise it slightly, thus allowing the auxiliary engine to hang plumb. Check engine mounting screws frequently to ensure tightness.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION
9′ Models
On the 9 foot tender the fuel tank may be placed either forward or aft of the center thwart seat The determining factor will be the weight aboard and the desired trimming effect of the fuel tank The fuel tank should rest on one of our fuel tank mats. These mats have a grooved bottom which will reduce their slipping on the gal-coat floor surface. Placing of the fuel tank on the tank mat will prevent the tank from marring the deck through chafing, bouncing, or rust bleed from the tank

11′ Models
On 11 foot standaniend Sport models, fuel tanks can be carried either forward or aft of the center thwart seat Again, the weight of the tank and its affect on hull trim will determine placement. The tank should be placed on one of our tank mats for the reasons given above. On the 11 foot Super Sport model, fuel tanks should be placed behind the rear thwart seat
13′ and 15′ Models
Six gallon fuel tanks can be placed behind the rear thwart seat on both Sport and Super Sport models. On these models there is room for two six gallon fuel tanks on our tank mats and the battery behind the thwart seat and storage box. This keeps the tanks in the rear where they are out of the way and less susceptible to movement On the 15 foot Striper model, fuel tanks can also be placed in the rear. There is room behind the optional rear pedestal seat for a fuel tank.

17′ Models
On Montauk and Newport Models provision for fuel tanks is under the two way reversible pilot seat Two tank mats are riveted to the floor and an opening provided into the tunnel area which runs under the floor, to carry the fuel line aft to the rear tunnel opening and engine. This keeps fuel lines under the floor and out of the way. On Newport models equipped with the optional 86 qt. cooler seat, fuel tanks can be placed on the rear floor area. There is room under the optional stem deck for a six gallon fuel tank On the 17′ Super Sport and Limited model there is room behind the rear seat and storage box for two fuel tanks.
On the 17′ Striper model fuel tanks can be placed on the rear floor area. There is room under the optional stem deck for a six gallon tank.
When filling fuel tanks, to prevent possible fuel spillage inside the boat, remove the tank from the boat When filling, the nozzle should maintain continuous contact with the tank. Any static electricity will travel up the fuel hose to the pump and ground. As you can visually observe fuel level as you are filling, spillage or overflow can be avoided. Be sure to use a proper oil and gasoline mixture in accordance with your engine manufacturer’s recommendation. Tanks placed under seats such as the Montauk and Newport models should have restraining shock cords to prevent the fuel tank from bouncing over the lip of the tank mat and onto passengers feet.
DRA[N TUBES
All Boston Whaler boats are self bailing. 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17 foot models will accumulate some water if all drains are left open. The amount of water will depend on the weight distribution and engine size. Once stabilized, additional water from rain or wash down will actually exit the boat through the open drain tubes because of the hulls buoyancy. The water level will not exceed the height of fuel tanks or battery boxes. This feature allows the boat to be left unattended on a mooring or slip without the need for bailing or bilge pumps. An optional bilge pump is offered on 17 foot models as a convenience for dewatering. Water is quickly “run out” of the boat through the open drain tubes once underway. Drain plugs can then be installed to keep the boat dry.
Drain plugs should not be placed in engine splash well drain tubes. These should always be left open to remove any back splash water which may enter.
15 and 17 foot models have a through hull drain inside the bow anchor locker. This should be left open to prevent accumulation of rain water. Also any debris from anchor and rope will conveniently be discharged through the drain.
On 17 foot models or Limited models equipped with optional stern decks, access to the rear floor sump drain is restricted. The drain plug on these models can be installed from outside the transom.
When trailering, remember to remove all drain plugs after securing the boat onto the trailer. Store the boat with the bow slightly elevated to allow water to drain out.

Electrical and Wiring

All boats 11 through 17 feet, capable of being equipped with a navigation light option, have wires installed at the factory. These wires are run behind the black insert of the heavy duty rub rail. If your boat is not equipped with navagational lights, a small plastic cap seals off where these wires enter the hull at the bow and rear interior top side. When navigational light kits are ordered, a wiring harness with in-line fuse and switch is provided along with a terminal block to connect the bow and stem light to the switch and battery.
All boats are equipped with either a circuit breaker or a fuse which protects the accessory wiring hametis. On older boats, this is either an in-line fuse or circuit breaker located behind the switch panel inside the dash panels. Later boats (after 1986) have the circuit breaker located in the stern area of the boat close to the recommended battery located. On 13′ models, a fuse is located behind the terminal block cover. The circuit breaker protects the wiring harness from electrical source (the battery) to the console or dash panel. Consoles and dash panels are equipped with a terminal block which carries current to individual accessory switches. There is room on the terminal block to add additional electrical accessory items.
FATHOMETER INSTALLATION.
Depth finders will work at high speeds, serving the function of continuously recording depths. They will assist in navigation and fish finding. To install a fathometer a -transom mounted transducer must be installed. Do not consider a fathometer which requires through hull installation of the transducer. Because of the foam sandwich construction, through hull transducer installation is impossible, will create turbulence during high speed operation, and will interfere with trailer operation.
Mount the transducer on the PORT SIDE of the transom. The transducer in most cases will act as a mini-trim tab and can affect hull trim. When mounted on the port side, particularly on 17 foot models, the transducer will counteract port listing tendencies from propeller torque providing better hull trim.
The transducer must be mounted flush and continuous with the boats bottom and in an area where there is a dear flow of water off the transom. Be sure the transducer is notin line with any spray stakes. A smooth flow of water must pass over the face of the transducer. If there is a space between the transducer and the boat it may be necessary to fill this area with compound or a facing piece. Some tansducers are designed to hang just below the boats bottom and pierce the flow of water.

Using a straight edge along the bottom of the boat, bring the transducer face down so it just touches the straight edge. Fasten the transducer bracket to the transom. In most cases you will be outside the transom wood. However, the fiberglass is thick enough so stainless steel metal screws can be used. Bedding the transducer bracket and mounting screws with a marine compound is a good practice as it will alsci strengthen the installation. It may be necessary to depress the trailing edge of the transducer one or two degrees to ensure solid contact with the water. You will have to experiment. Consult the fathometer manufacturer’s instructions as well.
Choose the location of the depth finder on the console carefully. Temporarily mount it on top of the console and turn it on to check it’s affect on the compass at various headings. If deviation occurs move the sounder as far away as practical. Record deviation at various headings for future reference. Remember, space on each models console is limited and some of the larger fathometers may not fit.
RADIO
Marine V. H, F. or C.B. radios if mounted, should be in a protected location. On 11, 13, 15 and 17 foot models this will require special custom shelves or brackets to properly house the radio out of the weather and spray. On 17 foot Montauk models, radios can be mounted on special brackets either secured and hung from the console interior or a shelf built up from the console floor. On 17 Super Sport models and Newport models custom radio compartments will have to be fabricated.

Antenna installation will depend on your model’s configuration and your boat’s canvas. If an antenna is mounted on the console, it will interfere with sun top and flying top set when these are in use. Generally, antennas on 17 foot models are best mounted in the rear either fastened to the hull or on rail mounted antenna bases. This keeps antennas clear of canvas and the antenna coaxial cable can lead through the tunnel under the floor to the console. The antenna can also be stored along the side rail. Should you choose to mount the antenna on the console, it will not be possible to fly a sun top. However, if carefully positioned, the antenna can pass between the windshield zipper joint on the flying top set. The zipper will require minor modification. The use of a short barrel-type antenna mounted on the side of the console or console rail will eliminate this, but will reduce range. Check with your electronics dealer for further information. Antennas mounted to the console should be through bolted and a back up block provided behind the area. The bolts should be equipped with a lock washer and preferably air-craft lock nuts, as the antenna will be subject to constant whipping motion.

Hull Attachments

When you want to add custom accessories to your boat, you should check with your Boston Whaler dealer or check with the factory before proceeding
Accessories subject to stress, such as seats, consoles, etc. should not be attached except in areas that have wood inserts in the hull. Your safety and safety of passengers could be affected by improper installations. Wood locating diagrams have been included in the owner’s package of each new boat, or are available from the factory upon request. These diagrams are continually updated, and when received, will be applicable to your specific boat.
SKI HITCHES
Do not install elevated transom ski hitches on 11, 13, or 15 Whalers. Because of their high center of gravity, the skier may exert enough force when pulling

Wood Locating Diagram 17′ Hull

Outside in a turn to capsize the boat. All models 9 foot through 17 foot are equipped with ski-tow eyes and interior lifting eyes through bolted on the transom. A bridle equipped with a pulley and float can be attached to the exterior transom ski eyes. The pulley will allow the tow line to traverse from side to side as the skier crosses the wake, and the float prevents the bridle line from sinking and tangling in the propeller.
On 17′ models equipped with the optional rear deck, we offer a ski pylon option for water skiing. Limited models have an optional ski pylon which is mounted ahead of the transom and engine to provide more control.
TOWING
9′, 11′, and 13′ models are well suited as tenders and can easily be towed. Their light weight offers minimal drag and drain plugs can be left open for draining when towing in rough water where spray may come aboard.
You will have to experiment to determine which towing method will work best for your specific requirements. In some cases, a single tow line will be sufficient. Other cases may require a bridle from the transom of the larger vessel, or a double bridle going back to the bow eye to reduce yawing. You will have to experiment with the tow line to achieve the boats best ride behind the wake. It is wise to attach a separate security line, from the bridle or tow line to the interior norman pin. This line should be loose and not take any strain from the tow. This will act as a shock preventer should the bow eye fail or the towing bridle connections let go. Although the bow eye area is reinforced, high speed towing in rough water conditions should be avoided as constant heavy jerking could loosen the bow eye.
The engine can be left in position or stem ballast left in the boat. This will in some cases assist in straighter tracking particularly if the engine is in the down position. CAUTION: Avoid nylon tow line. These can stretch like a rubber band and in case of accidental breakage of hardware, be propelled like a missile. Tow lines should be attached to the bow eye not the interior norman pin.
TYING UP
All Boston Whalers 9 through 17 feet are equipped with bow towing and lifting eyes as well as stem ski eyes and lifting eyes. These are suited for tie up. We do not recommend or install conventional cleats as they can catch clothing and fishing lines. The bow norman pin can be used for light tie up duty and lines attached to the stem eyes for tying up at a slip or dock. If mooring, the bow eye should be used. Optional bow chocks provide line direction and prevent chafing.
LIFTING
Lifting systems are varied depending upon personal preferences, space limitations, and physical factors. When selecting davits or lifting equipment be sure the supplier and installer know where the lifting positions are on your particular Boston Whaler. If you have any questions consult your dealer, check with the factory, or consult your davit supplier. ”
9′ and 11′ Sport and Tenders are equipped with a bow lifting eye and two lifting eyes through-bolted on the transom. Interior wood has also been molded into the bow locker bulkhead and the rear seat platform for installation of lifting pad eyes. This allows greater flexibility in spacing dual davits or lowers the lifting point if a strong back system is used Wood pads are molded into the gunwales opposite these bulkheads for davit locking devices.
The 11′ Super Sport has no rear seat bulkhead and the seat back and bow rail can present some limitations on your selection of a lifting system.

13′, 15′, and 17′ Models are also equipped with a bow lifting eye and two lifting eyes though bolted on the transom interior. Dual davit, single davit, and a strong back system can all be used on these models. In some cases a spreader bar between the two rear lifting eyes will be necessary. Bow rails and seat backs on Super Sport models, as well as console rails and windshields can restrict lifting heights, so check clearance.
CAUTION: If using a single point lifting system, the apex of the bridle must be high enough above the gunwale to provide lifting angles from the eyes to prevent distortion of the lifting eyes and stainless steel shanks. This is approximately 3 to 4 feet above the gunwhale. Avoid hooks which are too large for the eyes to accommodate. The hooks must swivel freely in the eyes. If necessary, use shackles through the lifting eyes. Have the bow slightly elevated and remove drain plugs.
TRAILERING
Your Boston Whaler is built with its keel as the strongest area. The keel is designed to support the weight of the boat. For this reason, the trailer you select should contain center keel rollers to support the entire weight of the boat. Padded bunks should be located so they do not interfere with bottom spray rails and need only provide lateral stability. Leave a small space of 1/4″ between the bunks and the boat. This will aid launching by reducing friction.

Roller type trailers should not be used on Boston Whalers. Although this type of trailer is popular, it can cause damage to your boat and to the foam sandwich construction. Roller trailers do not support the boat at its strongest point — the keel. The rollers can cause a ripple effect on the fiberglass which could disrupt the bond between the fiberglass and foam core. In addition, rollers can put excessive pressure on molded bottom spray stakes when the boat is being launched and retrieved.
Your trailer will be an important part in ensuring your boating pleasure. The trailer should be adjusted to your boat. The winch stand should be adjusted so the bow stop is located just above the bow eye with the winch cable just below it This will allow a straight pull on the bow eye and locating the stop above the bow eye will provide additional security in the event of a panic stop. Be sure the hook is not oversized for the bow eye or twisting of the eye could occur.
Tie down straps may require chafe protection over the heavy duty nub rail, particularly on long hauls or trailering on rough roads. Many trailer manufacturers offer transom tie downs with hooks and clamps. Be sure any metal components that may contact the hull are padded to prevent chafing the gelcoat.

You will find a cat waik on the trailer chassis a great convenience and increase safety in launching and retrieving, If not provided by the trailer manufacturers, one can easily be constructed using a two-by-ten or two-by- twelve plank.
When launching or retrieving, avoid submerging the wheel bearings of the trailer. The addition of grease fittings on the wheel hubs will make wheel bearing maintenance easier, Back the trailer down to the water so wheel bearings are just above the water. A trailer that is properly balanced will allow one person to tilt it, allowing the boat to slide off the keel rollers easily. Keep the rollers lubricated with a waterproofgrease.

Maintenance

BOTTOM PAINT
Any boat left in salt or fresh water for more than a few days should have the gelcoat surface protected with a two part epoxy paint followed by an anti- fouling paint.
This will retard marine growth and protect gelcoat irom possible blistering. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN THE WATER FOR ANY EXTENDED TIME WITH-OUT BOTTOM PAINT.
In choosing the type of anti-fouling paint, consult with your friends or dealer and purchase the type most effective or most popular in your area. Mask the hull and apply the anti-fouling paint according to the specific instructions of the paint manufacturer. Most will recommend priming or etching the gelcoat with a wash. Do not short cut this or the anti-fouling paint will not adhere properly.
Approximate water line drawings for all models 9’ through 17’ are available. However, these may vary slightly because of the variety of engine combinations and individual equipment on each boat. The best method to determine the exact water fine on your boat is to launch and mark the bow and stern. The boat can then be hauled, leveled athwartship, and trimmed fore and aft so the bow and stem marks are equal distance from the level floor. A piece of wood cut to the distance between the floor and the marks can be used to guide further marks completely around the hull. Mask off to this line. Raising the water line to be two to three inches higher than the float line will prevent water scum marks appearing on the gelcoat.
GELCOAT
Gelcoat is the outer cosmetic skin of the boat. It is a durable layer of pigmented resin which makes routine maintenance relatively simple. The best way to keep the gelcoat on your boat looking fresh is by regular routine maintenance. Cleaning gelcoat should be done with a mild household detergent or boat soap followed by a rinse down with plenty of fresh water. A good coat of wax — either automotive or boat wax — at least twice a year will help maintain the srnooth, glossy finish and protect the boat’s surface. Do not wax surfaces that may be walked on, as they will become quite slippery when wet. Mast of these areas have a non-skid surface molded in. Cleaning the non-skid surface is best accomplished with a scrub brush.
Gelcoat is a very durable material, but it can chip, crack, scratch or blister over the years and during use, These are all cosmetic conditions which can usually be repaired easily and do not affect structure. Matching gelcoat and hull repair kits are available from your dealer or Boston Whaler. These kits contain a detailed instruction sheet for most minor repairs.
CANVAS CARE
The following steps will assist you in maintaining your boat’s canvas.

1. Dry all canvas before storing to prevent mildew.
2. Canvas items, ‘not clear vinyl, can be washed periodically using a mild dish- washing type soap and warm water. On heavier stains light scrubbing with a soft brush can be used.
3. Frequently lubricate snaps and studs with petroleum jelly. Zippers should be periodically lubricated with a paraffin wax.

TEAK CARE
Teak is used on your Boston Whaler because of its beauty and low maintenance. Teak weathers well because of natural oils in the wood, however, after repeated exposure it will turn grey. Teak should be cleaned with detergent or commercially available teak cleaner and re-oiled to retum it to it’s natural color.
VARNISH
The varnish used on our woodwork is urethane, sprayed directly onto the wood without fillers or stains. By thinning the first of three coats, the urethane penetrates deeply into the pores, providing good holding power for subsequent coats. This is a very durable coating, and it forms a good base for any other type vamish.
The best maintenance for mahogany is to reduce exposure of the wood to weather and ultraviolet sun rays. This can be accomplished by equipping the boat with any of the several varieties of console, seat, and mooring covers available,
Automotive wax or spray wax, such as Lemon Pledge, will add gloss and lustre to the woodwork and add longevity to its surface. However, when refinishing time comes, great care will have to be taken to remove all the wax before sanding. If this precaution is not taken, you will sand the wax into the woodwork, and failure of new varnish will result, Remember, varnished surfaces will be slippery.
In refinishing, any good urethane vamish is acceptable and we suggest the use of one with which you or your acquaintances have had experience. There are two important wamings: (1) If you don’t remove the woodwork from the boat, carefulky mask all the deck surfaces with heavy paper prior to varnishing. A varnish drip will make a permanent black stain on the gelcoat which is impossible to remove. (2) Carefully sand ail the the surfaces prior to applying new coatings to kill ninety percent of the dloss. This give “‘teeth” to retain the new material. Use fine sandpaper (#360). Use of coarse, paper will cause scratches which will show after varnishing and will make it necessary to apply multiple coats to obtain the original lustre. Sandpaper of the “open coat” type works well because the powdered vamish does not clog the grit Most vamish removers will not penetrate the urethane finish, sanding is the best method. The use of a vibrator sander will help. Do not use a circular sander as it will leave swirl marks in the finish.
STAINLESS STEEL & HARDWARE
The deck hardware on your Boston Whaler is made of various metals, all suited for particular strength requirement. Ail rails, fastenings, and much of the hardware is stainless steel. :
Stainless steel, although strong and corrosion resistant, does require regular periodic maintenance. Stainless steel surfaces must be kept clean and free of accumulated dirt and grit. Crevice corrosion, a brownish coloring, can occur on stainless components where one piece of stainless hardware joins another.
This condition is usually caused by impurities in water and air and can be cleaned off easily with any marine metal polish using a sponge, cloth or small bristled brush {useful for getting into nooks and crannies), CAUTION —- Never use stee! or bronze wool for any cleaning applications! Tiny particles will fall off getting into the gelcoat and causing rust stains.
After cleaning, some owners wax hardware which makes future maintenance easier.
Stainless, like gelcoat, becomes slippery when waxed so caution should be exercised.
STORAGE
If your boatis out of use during winter months or is to be laid-up for an extended time, the following should be done.

1. Check your engine manual regarding necessary procedures for winterizing and lay-up. These instructions are important and when followed will insure your engine wil] survive severe winter conditions.

2. Clean and wax your boat before storage. Remove any marine growth from the bottom immediately after the boat is removed from the water as this debris will harden making removal more difficult.

3. If storing on a trailer or cradle, the boat should be supported on the keel. This is the strongest part of the boat, Side chocks need only prevent lateral movement.
   Store with bow elevated.

4. Leave all drains open. This will keep the boat dry and provide ventilation.

5. Fill fuel tanks and add dry gas.

Boston Whaler takes great pride in a long tradition of building quality hulls and equipping them with quality componenis. If you have any unanswered questions, first contact your Boston Whaler dealer. If you still need further information contact our Customer Service Department at 1149 Hingham Si., Rockland, Ma. 02370.

A OML GROUP COMPANY SINCE 1965
Boston Whaler inc.
1149 Hingham Street
Rockiand, MA02370
(837}871-1400
Falex 40708

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