SMYTH SQ24 Super Cube Tri Axle Grain Silage Trailer Model Kit Instruction Manual
- August 10, 2024
- SMYTH
Table of Contents
SMYTH SQ24 Super Cube Tri-Axle Grain Silage Trailer Model Kit
Specifications
- Scale: 1:32
- Model: Smyth SQ24 Tri-Axle Grain/Silage Trailer
- Recommended Glue: Gorilla Super Glue
- Recommended Paint: Automotive primer followed by automotive acrylic
Product Usage Instructions
Step 1: Prepare Resin and Acrylic Parts
- Clean all resin parts in warm soapy water to remove silicone release agent.
- Remove any excess resin (flash) from the parts.
- Remove plastic backing from acrylic parts and sand the surface with a fine grit sandpaper to improve adhesion.
Step 2: Assemble Chassis Rails
Glue the two halves of the chassis rails together, aligning the pivot hole at the rear and the dropped mount in the middle. Ensureproper alignment and glue on opposite sides to create nearside and offside chassis rails.
Step 3: Build Tipping Member
Glue the specified components onto the cross member as illustrated in the manual.
Step 4: Attach Cross Members
Glue the cross members to one side of the chassis in the prescribed order, ensuring straight and perpendicular alignment.
Step 5: Complete Chassis Structure
Glue the other chassis rail in place to connect all tabs and complete the chassis structure.
Step 6: Fix Front Member/Spring
Attach the front member/spring to the front of the chassis as indicated.
Step 7: Build Bumper
Assemble the bumper by gluing the mud flaps in their designated slots and then attaching the bumper on top of the mudflaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Q: What type of glue is recommended for assembly?
- A: Gorilla Super Glue is recommended for assembly due to its strong bond.
- Q: What paint should be used on the components?
- A: Automotive primer followed by automotive acrylic paint is recommended for painting the components.
Product Information
CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER
The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting
This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to make
sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are not in
the instructions should be carried out.
Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super
Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from
most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond,
the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks. Paint: The
instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A good quality
automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic is
recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be problem-free
and provide a good finish to your model while being readily available.
Installation Instruction
Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected suprises
Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and tyres) in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin parts too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where resin is poured into the mould. Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plastic is improved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the final paint. It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. The same applies to any resin parts.
Step 2: Glue the two halves of the chassis rails together. 17 to 18 aligning
the pivot hole at the rear and the dropped mount in the middle. Take care if
using superglue, the bond will be almost instant so make sure they are aligned
as you glue. Ensure you glue them opposite sides to make the offside and
nearside chassis rail
Step 3: Build the tipping member by gluing the two 22’s onto the cross member
21 as illustrated.
Step 4: Glue the cross members to one side of the chassis, 30 at the front, 21
before the suspension, 20 in the centre of the suspension and 19 at the rear
butted up to the inside edge. Ensure all are glued in straight and
perpendicular to the chassis rails.
Step 5: Once glued you can glue the other chassis rail in place connecting the
same tabs as the other side to complete the chassis structure.
Step 6: Fix the front member/ spring 23 to the front of the chassis
Step 7: The bumper is built by gluing the two mud flaps 27 in their slots on
the chassis. The bumper 26 then glues to the top of the mudflaps in its angled
sloton the chassis.
The tow bar can now be added if desired.
Step 8: Build the drawbar. 2x 28 glue back to back. The tow eye 29 glues in the front recess
Step 9: Fit the drawbar. Loose fit the axles and wheels to the chassis. Select the tractor you wish to hook the trailer too. Place the drawbar eye on the tractor hitch, position the drawbar in the trailer as shown and glue a pin in the appropriate hole on the drawbar hanger. This will allow the trailer to sit correctly on the tractor.
Step 10: To begin constructing the body glue the main floor profile 3 to the
0.5mm floor sheet (A). The sheet is cut oversize so will need trimming down
with scissors or a craft knife to sit flush with the main profile on all four
sides.
Step 11: Build the sides by gluing 1 to 2 and repeating for the other side.
ENSURE you glue them opposite ways around to make the two sides. Dry fit first
to check. Also glue the bottom edges of the sides in place. 4 at the front, 5
in the middle section and 6 at the rear
Step 12: If constructing the silage trailer variant you can now glue 38 and 39
back to back.
Step 13: Glue the thin 0.5mm sections to the back of both sides and silage
sides if used. Trim as appropriate.
Step 14: Using the smaller thin strips to fill the gaps on the front sheet. If
building the silage variant also glue the mesh to 37. You may need to apply
some pressure to the mesh while gluing to obtain a strong bond.You can see how
we have used a clamp and some wood to hold thetwo together while the glue
sets. Do
NOT overtighten or the acrylic plastic will break.
Step 15: Build up the front onto one of the side panels. Start with part 48 on the bottom of the side, then place the main front sheet on the angled length and finish with part 45 on the top. To tie it all together glue the two part 47’s to the front of the trailer as illustrated below.
Step 16: Build the rear door by gluing frame work on top of the main section, align the two mitred cut outs to get the orientation correct as pictured. Then flip over and glue a thin sheet over the slots
Step 17: To build the body first glue one side, the front and the floor together to create asquare corner. The front fits in the recess at the front of the side. The bearers in the floor line up flush with the bottom of the sides. The thin floor sheet should sit just above to the two curved wheel cut outs. Complete the main body by adding the second side lining up in the same way as the first. Use a set square while gluing to ensure everything is straight and square. Offer the tailgate up to its recess in the rear, it should be a relatively loos fit.
Step 18: If building the silage trailer glue the extensions to the body as
pictured. You may wish to glue the mesh in place now to simplify painting. If
you wish to paint the mesh silver then it will be easier to paint a different
colour and glue inplace one painted. If building the grain variant skip
straight to step 19.
Step 19: Attach the underbody parts. Four hinge plates 25 glue in the front
facing backwards as illustrated. They fit in the slots to provide correct
spacing. The Two rear hinges 24 sit in their cut out pockets. The rear
finishing plate 16 sits at the rear with the angles pointingto the ends. The
mudflaps 33 glue into their slots at an angle as illustrated. The angled
caps32 glue to the outer edges of the mudflaps to tidy everything up.
Step 20: Construct the rest of the tailgate by gluing tabs 38 to either side of the tailgate, one at the top an one in the middle as illustrated, they glue 5mm in from the side with the remainder overlapping. They tabs sit up to the raised edge of the border and the narrower spacing sits to the top of the tailgate
Step 21: The tail gate arms can now be glued to the tabs with the long arm at the top.
Step 23: The ladder can be constructed by gluing the angled blocks 51 to the back of the ladder 36. Glue the third rung up from the bottom of the ladder. The ladder can be glued to the front before or after painting. Better paint coverage is achievable whenleft off.
Step 24: You can now dry assemble the model to check that parts fit well such as the tailgate in the rear slot and the chassis to the body hinges.
Step 25: The parts are now ready for paint. I would recommend starting with a plastic primer, I used Halfords Grey Plastic Primer but a red primer may also be suitable. This helps bond to the acrylic parts while also levelling everything to the same colour. Once the primer is dry I have used an automotive paint. Smyth supply trailers in a wide variety of colours, examples below are all painted in Halfords aerosol colours. Ford SunburstRed, Ford Electric Blue, Volvo Dark Grey 228 and Gloss Black. These are not an exact match but make for an affordable option. The closest looking RAL colours are as follows.
- Green—RAL6018 Yellow Green
- Blue— RAL5015 Sky Blue
- Red—RAL3020 Traffic Red
- Grey—RAL7005 Mouse Grey
- Black—RAL9017 Traffic Black
I can’t guarantee any of these colours are exact matches for those used on the real trailer. Rims, Front Mesh, Hose bracket and Drawbar Shoe have all been painted with Hyctoe Aluminium Effect. Any Silver paint is suitable.
Step 26: I would recommend applying the decals next as the individual parts are easier to hold before final assembly. The following advice is provided by our decal manufacturer. You can apply these stickers with the “Dry” or “Wet” method.
Dry method: (Recomended)
- Apply decal at room temperature
- Clean & dry the surface
- Remove the excess foil from the delivered sticker
- “Remove” the pre-cut decal from the decal sheet and place it on your model
- Press the sticker firmly to activate the pressure-sensitive adhesive;
This is fully cured after 48 hours
Wet Method:
- Apply to model at room temperature
- Clean & dry the surface
- Mix 1 drop of soap with lime-free water (boiled or distilled) in a container or plant sprayer
- Remove the excess foil from the supplied sticker sheet
- Spray the surface to be stickered with the plant sprayer
- “Remove” the pre-cut sticker from the sticker sheet and place your decal on your model or
- Put your sticker through the water/soap tray and place your sticker on your model
- Correct the position if necessary: these stickers are perfect for that
- Rub the water under the sticker from the center to the outside of the sticker
- Press the sticker firmly to activate the pressure-sensitive adhesive;
This is fully cured after 48 hours The reflective tape can be cut (with a knife or scissors) from the supplied sheets of white red and yellow in 2mm length and stuck to the model as desired using the above methods.
Step 27: With the decals in place you can begin final assembly of the model.
Start by mounting the body on the chassis using a piece of the thicker wire
folded to an L shape, thread through the hinge holes and bend at the other end
to lock inplace, again taking care not to snap any acrylic.
Step 28: Mount the rams in the body, again use the thicker wire and L shape
method for the chassis mounting with the wide end of the rams. (You may wish
to paint the bottom stage of the ram, the ram can be disassembled by pushing
the other way, don’t loose the copper spacers inside!) The top mount on the
body requires a length of thick wire cut narrower than the mounts, thread
through the mounts and rams and glue the ends to hold. Thin plastic can be
used to cap the holes to stop the wire falling out if the glue fails.
Step 29: Finally fix the tailgate to the body. To do this use some of the thin
wire, cut and bent to an L-shape with pliers. Feed the longer end of the L
through the tailgate and body holes. Gently fold the other end of the wire
down to hold it in place and connect tailgate to body. BE CAREFUL not to apply
to much pressure as this could snap the acrylic or result in the hinge being
to tight preventing any tailgate movement. A nice loose bend is perfect, then
trim any excess wire with snips.
Step 30: Paint and glue any remaining ancillary items such as the pipe holder, ladders and mudflaps. If you have painted the mesh silage extension glue this inplace. Take care when gluing painted parts as superglue will fog the surrounding paint. A clear glue like UHU or Deluxe Materials Glue ‘n’ Glaze is better for this job. Glue the clear panel into the front window, again don’t use super glue for this step, it will fog the clear glazing. Finally push the 2mm steel axle into one of the rims, thread the axle through the holes in the chassis and push the other rim on to secure. Use the black straw to make spacers if necessary and a little drop of glue will help keep the rims on the axle. Check that the tyre tread is running the right way!
The model is now complete and ready for harvest, sit back and admire your creation, great work!
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