HORNBLASTERS HB-200 Dual Tank Spare Tire Delete Kit Instructions

HORNBLASTERS HB-200 Dual Tank Spare Tire Delete Kit

HORN INSTALLATION

Mount the four black Shocker bells in the direction as seen in the photos above. The small nut located at the opening of the bell can be tightened down with a ⅜” socket and the rear nut with a ½” wrench. “DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE”

TANK FITTINGS

Assemble the (2) two-gallon tanks as seen below. Make sure to use the supplied teflon tape on all the fittings that don’t already have a pre-applied PTFE paste.

TANK MOUNTING

Using the supplied tank mounting hardware, start by attaching tank “1”, which doesn’t have the air gauge, as seen in the picture on the left ←. Then mount the remaining tank “2”, which has the gauge installed, onto the other side of the bracket.

VALVE AND HORN FITTINGS

Mount the valve on the bracket as high up on the guides as it will let you with the supplied hardware. Once the valve has been mounted install the ½” elbow labeled ”1” on the inlet side of the valve and the ½”- 4×5/16” splitter labeled ”2” on the outlet side of the valve.

Now Locate the air inlet of each shocker bell and screw on the four ⅛ NPT-5/16″ air line push to pull elbows to each horn as labeled in the picture with a . Use a 9/16” wrench to tighten the elbows. Cut the 5/16″ airline supplied with the kit into four equal-length pieces of 18”. Run each piece of airline from the elbows to the banjo fitting labeled “2” in the diagram to the right.

COMPRESSOR AND PRESSURE SWITCH MOUNTING

With the compressor mounting hardware found in the part box, place the compressor in the bracket as seen in the picture to the left aligning the mounting holes with the mounting slots on the bracket. “Loosely” tighten down the “4” bolts until the compressor sits snug. Apply Teflon tape to the compressor check valve before routing the leader hose through the inside of the bracket where it can be tightened into the ¼” run tee. “DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CHECK VALVE, 12-15 ft lbs only.” Once the check valve has been tightened down go back and finish tightening down the compressor mounting hardware.

Remove the pressure switch from it’s packaging and locate the front port on your tank with the ½”-¼” reducer, this is where you will mount the pressure switch to the tank. Start by loosely hand-tightening the pressure switch into place followed by one half turn clockwise with a wrench. “DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PRESSURE SWITCH, 12-15 ft lbs only.”The leader hose is ran to the ¼” run tee that is installed on the innermost port of “tank 2”. Secondly a supplied ¼” plug is included to block the front ¼” port that is not utilized. You can route the leader hose any way you see fit as long as the spare tire hangar crank can fit into the center of the bracket without hitting the leader hose .

VALVE PLUMBING

Cut 3 pieces of ½” airline at the sizes below:

• A. 1 1/2”
  

  • Piece 1. Goes in between 1-2 fitting inlets

• B. 3 3/4”
  

  • Piece 2. Goes in between 3-4 fitting inlets

• C. 9 1/2”

  • Piece 3. Goes in between 5-6 fitting inlets Minor adjustments might be needed to ensure a tight seal on all of the airline connections

ASSEMBLE SPARE TIRE DELETE FEET & INSTALL THEM

For reference, the photo to the left shows the order of the pieces for the spare tire delete feet as well as fully assembled. ( 4 feet total) The photos below show how to install the spare tire delete feet to the bracket .**

SAFETY CABLE MOUNTING

Attach the safety cables to the top of the bracket as seen in the photos above once the kit has been installed on the vehicle.

RELOCATE COMPRESSOR AIR FILTER

1. Place the remote mounting bracket onto the inlet air filter assembly and line up attachment holes.
2. Fasten the bracket to inlet air filter with 2 screws provided.
3. Screw 1/“2 NPT (F) x 1/“2 tube fitting onto the inlet air filter, hand tighten. (No thread tape needed)
4. Locate the appropriate area where the remote inlet filter is to be installed. Keep in mind that the location should be dry and away from heat sources.
5. Drill a 3/8“ mounting hole then push the remote filter bracket pin into the hole.
6. Screw 3/8“ NPT (M) x 1/2“ tube fitting onto the compressor‘s air inlet port, and tighten with a wrench. (No thread tape needed)
7. Attached is provided 1/2“ air line to the barbed tube fitting of the air inlet port of the compressor.
8. Route the airline to the remote air filter, measure and cut flush to the appropriate length, and attach ach to the remote inlet air filter.

WARNING: FAILURE TO RELOCATE THE COMPRESSOR AIR FILTER OUT OF THE ELEMENTS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. PLEASE DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

SPARE TIRE DELETE FEET EXTENSIONS (IF NEEDED)

When hoisting your spare tire delete in place, if there is too much clearance for your feet to stabilize the bracket against the cross-members. We have included 4-foot extensions that allow you to extend the feet 4″ to give the adjustment needed to stabilize the kit. The illustration to the left shows a fully assembled foot with an extension for reference. (4 total)

In the spare tire delete extensions hardware bag you will find a 8 extra nuts, 8 lock washers, and 4 longer bolts to extend the feet. Attached below in figure A, is a layout of the components included in the hardware bag. Figure B has a breakdown of the order in which they will be installed to the Spare Tire Delete Feet.

Wiring the Compressor (150H)

Compressor Wiring

• A = 10 GAUGE TAN RING TERMINAL
• B = PRESSURE SWITCH
• C = 18 GAUGE RED MALE SPADE CONNECTOR
• D = 10 GAUGE YELLOW/GREEN FEMALE SPADE CONNECTOR
• E = AIR COMPRESSOR

An ignition/key power source can be any circuit that is hot when the vehicle is on. Good examples of these are the radio, daytime running lights, power seats, cigarette lighter, or even an accessory fuse. You can use the included T-tap or Scotchlok connector to tap onto one of these circuits Alternatively, an add-a-fuse can be sourced separately and be used to pull key power from the fuse box. The cigarette lighter fuse is almost always key-power on, as well as any fuses for power outlets throughout the vehicle. If the compressor runs when the vehicle is off, your power source is hot all the time. Make sure to run the supplied 8/10-gauge red wire from the fuse holder up to the pressure switch’s red wire. You can use the supplied 18-gauge wire for the key-power connection. (blue wire)

Wiring the Horns

Connecting the Train Horns to the Steering Wheel

This diagram shows how the valve can be wired to the steering wheel to honk these horns.

1. Start by locating the factory horn under the hood. It should be near the radiator, or in either the driver or passenger side fender well. Look for the 2-wire connector going into the stock horn.
2. Take a look at the two wires going into the stock horn. One will be black with the other being a bright color. We need to tap off the brightly colored wire. (can be tested with a volt-meter or test-light to ensure it is positive)
3. Open up your T-TAP connector and position the OEM horn wire through the connector, as shown above. The red lead in the diagram is the OEM horn wire, whereas the grey lead is the new wire that will splice into the tap.
4. Go ahead and line up the 18 gauge Grey wire in the connector. Close the plastic tab at the top to secure the wires into the connector. Using a set of needle-nose pliers, squeeze the metal tab into the connector to puncture both wires. This will ‘splice’ them together.
5. Connect the grey wire from the OEM horn lead to the toggle switch. Connect the opposite side of the toggle to the red wire on your solenoid valve. Then ground the black lead from the valve to the frame.
6. Press the steering wheel and listen for a ‘click’ at the valve. You can disconnect the ground from the stock horn so that it doesn’t honk and overpower the click.

Wiring the Horns Connecting the Train Horns to the Push Button

This diagram shows how the valve can be wired to the steering wheel to honk these horns.

1. Find a good location on the vehicle’s frame rails or cross members near the kit to ground the negative side of the valve using a red ring terminal. (Sand to bare metal for the best connection)
2. Now locate where you want to place your push button. After securing it in place you will connect one side of the push button directly to the battery using the Grey 18-gauge wire, a red butt connector, and a red ring terminal.
3. Then take the other side of the push button and connect it to the positive side of the air valve using the rest of your 18-gauge wire and a red butt connector.
4. Before turning the system on and allowing it to pressurize activate your push button and listen for the air valve clicking to ensure it is hooked up correctly.
5. Now you’re off to the races, HAPPY HONKING!

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