Richmond luxury vinyl Firmfit Premium Euro Plank Installation Guide

Richmond luxury vinyl Firmfit Premium Euro Plank Installation Guide

FIRMFIT PREMIUM EURO PLANK – INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Thank you for choosing our flooring. When properly installed and cared for, your new flooring will be easy to maintain and will keep its great look for years. Please read all the instructions before you begin the installation. Improper installation will void the warranty.

I.  GENERAL PREPARATIONS

TOOLS REQUIRED: Spacers, 16 oz rubber mallet, ruler, pencil, tape measure, utility knife, tapping block.

• Prior to installation, inspect material in daylight for visible faults/damage, including defects or discrepancies in color or gloss; check the edges of the flooring for straightness and any damage. No claims on surface defects will be accepted after installation.
• It is preferable to lay boards perpendicular to the window, following the direction of the main source of For the best result, make sure to always work from 3 to 4 cartons at a time, mixing the planks during the installation.
• Check if subfloor/site conditions comply with the specifications described in these If you are not satisfied, do not install, and contact your supplier.
• Flooring products can be damaged by rough handling before Exercise care when handling and transporting these products. Store, transport and handle the cartons in a manner to prevent any damage. Store cartons flat, never on edge.
• Flooring products can be heavy and bulky. Always use proper lifting techniques when handling these products. Whenever possible, make use of material-handling equipment such as dollies or material Never lift more than you can safely handle; get assistance.
• Calculate the room surface prior to installation and plan an extra 5-10% of flooring for cutting
• The environment where the flooring is to be installed is critically important with regard to successful installation and continued performance of the flooring The flooring is intended to be installed in interior locations only. These interior locations must meet climatic and structural requirements as well.
• In most cases, this product does not need to be However, if the boxes of flooring were exposed over 2 hours to extreme temperatures under 50º F / 10º C or over 90º F / 32º C within the 12 hours before the installation, acclimation is required. In this case, keep the boards in room temperature for at least 12 hours in unopened package before you start the installation. The room temperature must be maintained consistent between 50-90º F / 10-32º C before and during the installation.
• Flooring should only be installed in temperature ranges between 50-90º F / 10-32º C, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature before and during the Portable heaters are not recommended as they may not heat the room and subfloor sufficiently. Kerosene heaters should never be used.
• After installation, make sure that the flooring is not exposed to temperatures less than -22˚F /-30°C or greater than 140˚F / 60°C.”
• For floor surfaces exceeding 6400 ft2 / 620 m2 and/or lengths exceeding 80 ft / 25 m, use expansion

II. SUBFLOOR INFORMATION

• The flooring can be installed over most existing hard surface floor coverings, provided that the existing floor surface is clean, flat, dry, securely fastened, structurally sound and level to 3/16″ / 5 mm within 10 ft / 3 m.
• The substrate should not slope more than 1” / 25 mm per 6 ft / 2 m in any
• Depressions, deep grooves, expansion joints and other subfloor imperfections must be filled with patching & leveling compound.
• Substrates must be free from excessive moisture or Remove dirt, paint, varnish, wax, oils, solvents, any foreign matter and contaminates.
• Do not use products containing petroleum, solvents or citrus oils to prepare substrates as they can cause staining and expansion of the new flooring.
• Although this floor is waterproof, it is not aimed to be used as a moisture barrier. The concrete moisture vapor emissions should not exceed 8 lb / 63 kg (ASTM F1869) / 90 % RH (ASTM F2170) with a PH limit of 9 / max 2.5 % moisture content (CM method).
• This product is also not to be installed in areas that have a risk of flooding such as saunas or outdoor
• Existing sheet vinyl floors should not be heavily cushioned and not exceed more than one layer in Soft underlayment and soft substrates will cause damage to the locking mechanism, related to vertical deflection, and will void warranty.

WOOD SUBFLOORS

• If this flooring is intended to be installed over an existing wood floor, it is recommended to repair any loose boards or squeaks before you begin the installation.
• Nail or screw every 6” / 15 cm along joints to avoid
• Moisture content should not exceed 12%.
• Basements and crawl spaces must be Use of a 6 mil / 0.15 mm poly-film is required to cover 100 % of the crawl space ground.
• We recommend laying the flooring crossways to the existing
• All other subfloors – Plywood, OSB, particleboard, chipboard, wafer board, must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Double-Layered APA rated plywood subfloors should be a minimum 1″ (25 mm) total thickness, with at least 18″ (45 cm) well ventilated air space It is recommended that your chosen APA underlayment grade panels be designed for installation under resilient flooring, and carry a written warranty covering replacement of the entire flooring system.

CONCRETE SUBFLOORS

• Existing concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, smooth, permanently dry, clean, and free of all foreign material such as dust, wax, solvents, paint, grease, oils, and old adhesive Curing agents and hardeners could cause bonding failure and should not be used.
• We recommend using a minimum 6 mil / 15 mm poly-film as a moisture barrier between the concrete subfloor and the flooring.

DO NOT INSTALL OVER

• Any type of
• Existing cushion-backed vinyl
• Floating floor of any type, loose lay, and perimeter fastened sheet
• Hardwood flooring / wood subfloors that lay directly on concrete or over dimensional lumber or plywood used over concrete.

III. INSTALLATION

• Remove baseboard, quarter-round moldings, wall base, appliances and furniture from For best results, door trim should be under-cut to allow flooring to move freely without being pinched. After preparation work, sweep and vacuum the entire work area to remove all dust and debris.
• With a floating floor you must always ensure you leave a 1/4” / 6 mm gap between walls and fixtures such as pillars, stairs, etc. These gaps will be covered with trim moldings after the floor is installed.
• Whenever possible, plan the layout so that the joints in the planks do not fall on top of joints or seams in the existing substrate. The end joints of the planks should be staggered a minimum of 8” / 20 cm apart. Do not install over expansion joints. Avoid installing pieces shorter than 12” / 30 cm at beginning or end of rows.
• Do not install your kitchen cabinets directly over your The floor’s quality can only be guaranteed as long as the floor is allowed move freely.
• Decide the installation It is recommended to install the boards perpendicular to the window following the direction of the main source of light.
• Measure the area to be installed: The board width of the last row shall not be less than 2” / 50 If so, adjust the width of the first row to be installed. In narrow hallways, it is recommended to install the floor parallel to the length of the hall.
• UNDERLAY: If the floor does not have a pre-attached underlayment, an additional underlayment is recommended in order to improve acoustic performance and absorb some irregularities on the substrate. Best results can be expected with an underlayment of 0.04” / 1 mm to max 0.06” / 1.5 mm thickness with a high density (>11.2 lbs / ft3 / >180 kg / m3) and high compressive strength (>200 kPa) that supports the click system during daily use. Underlayments with a low density and an inadequate compressive strength could damage the locking mechanism and will void warranty. If the floor has a pre-attached underlayment, the use of an additional underlayment could damage the locking mechanism and will void warranty.

1. First row, first plank: After thoroughly cleaning the subfloor, you should begin laying from left to right. Position the first plank so that grooved edge is facing Place the floorboard 1/4” / 6 mm from the left wall. Use spacers between the wall and the floorboard.
2. First row, second plank: Drop the plank and gently tap down the end with a rubber mallet so it firmly locks into the previous plank until both are at the same height. Make sure both planks are perfectly aligned. It is crucial that after the short edges of two connecting planks are correctly aligned, the end-joint locking mechanism is engaged by tapping with a rubber mallet directly above the end joint, allowing for a correctlock. Tapping elsewhere on the board may result in permanent damage to the joint. See image above.

Note: Tapping the area close to the short edge, but not directly above it, may result in permanent damage to the joint. Continue installing the first row until you reach the wall on the right.

1. First row, last plank: At the end of the first row, leave an expansion gap of 1/4″ / 6mm to the wall and measure the length of the last plank to fit.
2. To cut the plank: Use a simple utility knife and ruler, and with the top side facing up, cut heavily and several times on the same The knife will not go through the surface but make a deep cut. You can then lift one half of the plank using your other hand to hold down the second placing it very close to the cut. The plank will split naturally.
3. Second row, first plank: Start the second row with the leftover cut part of the last plank of the previous This small plank should measure at least 12” / 30 cm. Otherwise, cut a new plank in half and use it to begin the second row. The end joints of each adjoining row should not be closer than 8” / 20 cm to each other. Whenever practical, use the piece cut from the preceding row to start the next row.
4. Second row, second plank: The end-joint locking mechanism is engaged in a scissoring motion, starting from the angled in long side at the previous row. Click the long side of the plank into the previous row and place it tight to the short end of the previous plank with an angle of 25-30. Moderate (non-excessive) force should be exerted on the end-joint. If the end-joint ls lined up correctly, very little force is required. Drop the plank and gently tap on the end with a rubber mallet so it firmly locks into the previous plank until both are at the same The joint can be damaged if forced. Start tapping from the inside edge and work across the joint so the joint engages smoothly. Make sure both planks are perfectly aligned.
5. After finishing the installation of every row: A tapping block should be used consistently to ensure that the long side joint is engaged correctly (completely). Use tapping block and a small hammer or rubber mallet to gently tap the planks into the click of the previous row to make sure they are tightly clicked together and make sure there is no gap between the long side of the planks installed. Any gapping can compromise the whole installation.
6. Tip: After the first 2-3 rows of planks are installed, they should be checked with a string line to ensure that rows are still running straight. If they are not, it could be that the starting wall has some irregularities that caused bowing in the If so, the starting row of planks may have to be scribed and re-trimmed to account for any unevenness in the wall. This can be done without having to disassemble the beginning rows.
7. To lay the last row: Position a loose board exactly on top of the last row laid. Place another board on top, with the tongue side touching the Draw a line along the edge of this boards, to mark the first board. Cut along the edge of this board to mark the first board. Cut along this line to obtain the required width. Insert this cut board against the wall. The last row should be at least 2” / 50 mm wide. The spacers can then be removed.
8. Holes for pipes: Measure the diameter of the pipe and drill a hole that is 1/2” / 12 mm larger. Saw off a piece as shown in the figure and lay the board in place on the Then lay the sawed-off piece in place.
9. Door molding and skirting: Lay a board (with the decorative side down) next to the door molding and saw as shown in the figure. Then slide the floorboard under molding.

I FINISHING THE INSTALLATION

Replace molding or wall base, allowing slight clearance between the molding and the planks. Nail the molding to the wall surface, not through the flooring. At doorways and at other areas where the flooring planks may meet other flooring surfaces, the use of a transition molding is required to cover the exposed edge but do not pinch the planks. Leave a 1/4″ / 6 mm gap between the planks and the adjoining surface.

II.  MAINTENANCE

• Sweep or vacuum daily using soft bristle
• Clean up spills and excessive liquids
• Damp mop as needed and use cleaners recommended for vinyl
• The use of residential steam mops on this product is Use at lowest power with a suitable soft pad, and do not hold a steam mop on one spot for an extended period of time (longer than 5 minutes).
• Refer to the steam mop’s manufacturer instructions for proper
• Use proper floor protection devices such as felt protectors under
• Place a walk-off mat at outside entrances to reduce the amount of dirt brought into your Do not use mats with a latex or rubber backing since these backings can cause permanent discoloration.
• Do not use abrasive cleaners, bleach or wax to maintain the
• Do not drag or slide heavy objects across the

 v iiPREVENTIVE CARE

• When moving appliances or heavy furniture always use 1/8” hardboard runways to protect the Always use hardboard runways even if you have an appliance dolly or even if heavy objects are equipped with wheels or rollers. Be sure to roll or “walk” the item across hardboard runways. This protects your floor from scuffing, gouging, and tears.
• Frequently moved furniture should be equipped with felt pads to avoid scratching the
• Heavy furniture and appliances should be equipped with non-staining large surface floor
• Furniture with castors or wheels must be easy swiveling, large surface, non-staining, and suitable for resilient floors. Do NOT use ball type castors as they can damage the floor. Recommend using 1/8” hardboard runways when moving these types of heavy wheeled furniture.
• Castor wheeled chairs should have wide, rubber It is mandatory to place protective mats under office chairs or warranty is voided.
• Use floor protectors under furniture to reduce As a general rule of thumb, the heavier the item, the wider the floor protector needed.

DISASSEMBLING

Separate the whole row by lifting it up delicately at an angle. To separate the boards, leave them flat on the ground and slide them apart. If boards do not separate easy, you can slightly lift up the boards (5) when sliding them apart. Tip: If the boards are difficult to slide apart, it may be the lock is not fully engaged. Try tapping down with a rubber mallet, making sure the full length is engaged, then slide apart keeping boards flat on the ground.

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