RIVAL MT8 4WD Monster Truck Instruction Manual
- October 30, 2023
- RIVAL
Table of Contents
RIVAL MT8 4WD Monster Truck
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this Team Associated product. This assembly manual
contains instructions and tips for building and maintaining your new vehicle.
Please take a moment to read through the manual and familiarize yourself with
the steps.
We are continually changing and improving our designs; therefore, actual parts
may appear slightly different than the illustrations. New parts will be noted
on supplementary sheets located in the appropriate parts bags. Check each bag
for these sheets before you start to build.
Rival MT8 RTR Features
- 4mm thick aluminum main chassis
- 22 precision ball bearings
- Heavy duty hardened steel CVA axles
- 16mm Big Bore threaded aluminum shock bodies
- Sealed drivetrain
- Three heavy-duty sealed silicone filled gear differentials
- Rigid aluminum center chassis supports
- Aluminum suspension braces
- Four position adjustable wheelie bar
- All metal gear drivetrain
- Rugged steel turnbuckles
- High torque digital servo
- Metal servo horn
- Single 6S or 4S ready 150A ESC
- 2100kv high torque brushless motor
Notes
There is a 1:1 hardware foldout page in the front of the manual. To check
the size of a part, line up your hardware with the correct drawing until you
find the exact size. Each part in the foldout has a number assigned to it for
ordering replacement parts. This symbol indicates a special note or
instruction in the manual.
Additional
Your new Rival MT8 comes assembled. The following items are needed for
completion.
- 4S or 6S LiPo battery
- Suitable battery charger
- (4) AA batteries
Other Helpful Items
- Silicone Shock Fluid (Refer to catalog for complete listings)
- Body Scissors (AE Part # 1737)
- FT Hex/Nut Wrenches (AE Part # 1650)
- Calipers or a Precision Ruler
- FT Turnbuckle Wrench (#1114)
- Reamer / Hole Punch (#1499)
- 17mm Wheel Wrench (#1571)
- Green Slime shock lube (AE Part # 1105)
- FT Universal Tire Balancer (#1498)
- Silicone Diff Fluid (Refer to catalog for complete listings)
- Shock Pliers (#1675)
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Wire Cutters
- Hobby Knife
- Soldering Iron
Hardware
Scale View
Battery Charging Steps and Safety:
Remove the battery from the vehicle before charging. Place battery on a fire
resistant surface. Avoid any contact with water or other liquids. Be sure to
select the correct charging mode for the type of battery you are charging.
ALWAYS use a compatible charger for charging your batteries.
- Caution: Never leave the battery unattended while charging. Always disconnect the charger from the power source when f nished charging.
- Caution: Always disconnect the battery when you are finished driving the vehicle.
Battery Installation
- Install the battery with the battery wires directed towards the rear of the vehicle.
- Secure the battery strap using two hook and loop straps.
Battery Notes and Tip: Connect the battery as shown. Disconnect the battery when not in use!
LiPo: LiPo batteries (lithium polymer) are high current rechargeable batteries. LiPo batteries offer extended run time and peak performance over NiMH batteries. They require a peak detection charger designed specifically for LiPo batteries. These batteries require special care and handling. LiPo batteries are recommended for advanced users only! ALWAYS charge a LiPo battery in LiPo mode.
Radio System Tuning and Controls:
RULE: Transmitter on First/Vehicle on Second, Vehicle off First/
Transmitter off Last!
- Slide the battery cover to remove cover.
- Install alkaline or rechargeable AA size batteries into the battery holder.
- Slide the battery cover back into place making sure it is completely closed and secure.
- Turn the power ON. If the power indicator LED fails to light, check the batteries for insufficient contact or incorrect polarity.
Radio System Tuning and Controls
DO NOT hold the trigger when turning on the radio. Refer to Radio owners manual for more in-depth instructions on radio operation and functions.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION
Tuning Tips
Tips for Beginners:
Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get around
the track without crashing. Changes to your vehicle will not be beneficial if
you can’t stay on the track. Your goal is consistent laps. Once you can get
around the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE
adjustment at a time, testing it before making another change. If the result
of your adjustment is a faster lap, mark the change on the included setup
sheet (make additional copies of the sheet before writing on it). If your
adjustment results in a slower lap, revert back to the previous setup and try
another change. When you are satisfied with your vehicle, fill in the setup
sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this as a guide for future track days
or conditions. Periodically check all moving suspension parts. Suspension
components must be kept clean and move freely without binding to prevent poor
and/or inconsistent handling.
Set The Gear Mesh:
You should be able to rock the spur gear back and forth in the teeth of the
pinion gear without making the pinion gear move. If the spur gear mesh is
tight, then loosen the #81261 screw and move the motor away, then try again. A
gear mesh that is too tight or too loose will reduce power and damage the gear
teeth.
Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel ride when looked at
from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A
good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber, where the top of the
tire is leaning out, is not recommended.
Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at
from the back. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A
good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line
acceleration on loose tracks.
Front Camber Links:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than
adjusting the ball end height on the tower. Shortening the camber link (or
lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering
response. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the
front more roll and slower steering response. Longer camber links are
typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on
medium-grip loose tracks.
Rear Camber Link:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than
adjusting the ball end height on the rear chassis brace. Shortening the camber
link (or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less roll and the car
will tend to accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or
raising the ball end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip.
Longer camber links are typically used on high grip tracks, while shorter
links tend to work better on medium grip loose tracks. The kit setting is the
best compromise of cornering grip and acceleration.
Ackermann:
Ackermann is the angle difference between the front wheels when they are
turned to steer the car. For minimal tire slip, it is standard for the inside
wheel to steer to a greater angle than the outside wheel. If corner entry
steering is too aggressive, try increasing the Ackermann by moving the ball
studs to the rearward holes. Increasing the Ackermann will increase the angle
difference of the front wheels when steered, resulting in a more stable car on
corner entry.
Associated Electrics, Inc. 21062 Bake Parkway Lake Forest, CA 92630 USA call: (949) 544-7500 – fax: (949) 544-7501 Check out the following web sites for all of our kits, current products, new releases, setup help, tips, and racing info! www.AssociatedElectrics.com
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