Giani Marble Small Project Kit Covers 12 Sq. Feet

BEFORE USING GIANI

WATCH OUR HOW-TO VIDEOS!
Visit gianigranite.com and select the “Videos” link on the menu. Watch our videos and read through all of these instructions prior to starting your project, as they are meant to make your transformation quicker and easier!

LIVE CHAT WITH US!
Have a question? We’re here to help! Chat with us Monday- Friday, 7 AM to 4 PM CST on gianigranite.com. Just look for the chat bubble in the bottom right- hand corner. You can also reach us at info@gianigranite.com.

CAN BE USED ON

• Formica
• Laminate
• Primed Plastic
• Wood*
• Cultured Marble
• Real Granite**
• Corian*
• Backsplashes
• Fireplace Mantels
• Metal*
• Real Concrete**

Additional household items you will need:

• SOS® or Brillo® pad to prep countertops
• Sufficient lighting
• Paper towels for cleanup
• One roll of painter’s tape
• Safety glasses to avoid accidental eye contact
• Nail polish remover for cleanup
• Paint tray for primer
• Step stool for hard to reach places

• 300 grit sand paper and sanding block

• Tweezers to remove debris from epoxy

De-gloss with #300 grit sandpaper, then wipe clean with a damp cloth. For unsealed wood, apply a good, oil-based wood primer before applying the Ciani Iron Core Primer. Apply the wood primer with a foam roller f or an ultra smooth finish because thicker fabric rollers will leave a textured finish.

For granite and concrete that are fully cured, clean the surface with xylene or lacquer thinner, and then wipe-up with rubbing alcohol to ensure any residual wax or sealer has been removed before applying the White Base Primer. Please note, xylene and lacquer thinner are very flammable!

Please, contact us at800-650-5699, info@gianigranite.com, or Live Chat with us for other applications or questions. DO NOT use Giani on tubs, flooring, or shower doors/floors.

SURFACE PREP WORK

Remove any silicone or acrylic caulk from your countertop and attached backsplash. Carefully trim the adhesive away with a box cutter or knife, and peel the remainder from the seam.

Note: Clean up caulk residue with rubbing alcohol.

Use a scouring pad, such as an SOS@ or Brillo® pad, to remove grease and dirt. DO NOT use any other cleaners. Rinse with water, at least twice, to remove all residue.

Note: Refer to the CAN BE USED ON section of this guide for surface prep instructions as some countertops may require additional steps.

Patch deep nicks and seams with wood filler. Giani will cover up thin, shallow scratches. Once dry, sand the wood patch smooth with #300 grit sandpaper. Wipe up the dust with a damp cloth.
Giani will level shallow textured surfaces due to its thickness and self- leveling properties.

Apply Painter’s Tape, such as Frog® Tape, in the following areas for easy clean up, protection of surrounding surfaces, and proper material adhesion:

• Above your backsplash to protect walls (Note 1)
• Around your sink and fixtures (Note 2)
• Underneath your countertop’s front edge (Note 3)

Note 1: Apply at least 2 layers of tape directly to your backsplash or walls. If you have an attached backsplash, use the painter’s tape to protect the walls above them from contact with the kit materials. You will be able to remove any accidental exposure to them when they are wet, but it is much more difficult to clean up when fully cured.

Note 2: For vanities with a one-piece countertop and sink, see the section titled, ONE-PIECE SINKS &VANITIES, in these instructions. If your vanity has a sink that is installed independently from the countertop, or if you’re using the kit on a small kitchen countertop, apply painter’s tape around the edges of the sink to protect it from accidental contact with the kit materials. Also tape around the base of your faucet and water supply handles with painter’s tape. Thoroughly taping these surfaces will prevent the primer and Mineral Colors from adhering to the fixtures.

Note 3: Apply painter’s tape under the front edge of your countertop, over the top of your drawers and cabinets. This will protect your cabinets from accidental contact with the kit materials. Both the primer and minerals will wash off with mild soap and water in the event of drips or spills, just make sure to clean them before they dry onto the surface.

ONE-PIECE SINKS & VANITIES

Giani Small Project Kits CAN be used in a sink bowl. If you are transforming your one-piece sink and vanity, please follow the steps below to ready it for the application:

Tape around the base of your faucet, water supply handles, and cover your popup drain and flange with painter’s tape. Thoroughly taping these surfaces will prevent the primer, Grey Veining Mineral, and Epoxy Topcoat from adhering to the fixtures. IMPORTANT: When taping around the faucet, handles, and drain flange, leave approximately 1/16″ exposed. This will allow the epoxy to fill and seal the natural gap between the surface of the countertop, sink and fixtures.

Lightly degloss the entire vanity and bowl with #300 grit sandpaper. This will slightly rough up the surface for better adhesion of the primer. Wipe up the sanding dust with a damp cloth and allow the surface to dry.

You may paint your sink by either continuing the veins in the bowl to create a seamless pattern, coat the inside with only the White Base Primer, or leave it the existing color. If you choose the white or existing color option, create a “marble edge” by applying painter’s tape about an inch below the top of the sink’s bowl. This will be the stopping point. Then apply the primer to the remainder of the bowl, or move on to the next step.

STEP 1: ROLL ON PRIMER

After stirring the White Base Primer, pour half of the contents into your painter’s tray. Use the Foam Brush to paint a narrow strip of primer at the bottom and top of your backsplash.

Continue using the Foam Brush to coat the corners and edges, and use the fabric roller to fill in the rest. Edge in 2-foot sections at a time and then immediately roll that section so your brush strokes blend in with the rolled areas.

Move onto the next 2-foot section, blending it with the previous section while both are still wet. Repeat until the entire countertop is covered. Make sure to work quickly so as not to create lap lines.

Once dry, repeat the same steps to apply the second coat, and allow to dry for an hour. Clean your foam brush to reuse and dispose of the roller cover. NOTE: You will need 2 coats to cover most surfaces, but for darker colored countertops, you may need a third.

After applying the second coat, if you notice any spots that you missed, first allow the countertops to completely dry before touching them up with the Foam Brush.

RESEARCH & PLANNING

While the primer is drying, we recommend researching some online examples of marble and marble countertop finishes. This will give you an idea of the variations in vein styles. You don’t have to emulate them exactly with your countertops, but it does help to have some visual references.

Seeing images of existing countertops will help give you an idea of how your veins should flow, and determine how decorative you would like the finish. Most marble tends to have large areas of white, cut by occasional thin, dark veins or flows.

After you’ve finished your research, spend some time mapping out the direction of your veins. It helps to draw the basic layout of your countertops and create a guideline for your veins. Don’t worry about it being perfect – this is a tool to help you plan where you want to place your veins. Most marble veins tend to flow in the same general direction. You don’t want your flows crisscrossing in opposite directions, or have so many veins that you create a zebra pattern. Planning out your major veins first will allow you to go back after you’ve completed them and evaluate how many accent veins you would like to add.

Finally, grab your kit’s included White Practice Board, and try out the vein application before painting directly onto your countertops. You won’t be able to manipulate the paint in the exact same way, but it will allow you to practice how to hold your brush, apply the Grey Veining Mineral, how much water to use for your veins, and softening techniques. Keep your veins thin when applying them. By misting them with enough water and softening them with the 2″ Brush, you can control the width and the strength.

STEP 2: GREY VEIN MINERAL

Before you begin, please note that this process is not necessarily difficult, but it does take some practice and patience. Be sure to take a step back every once in a while to see how your veins look from a distance. It can be easy to feel overwhelmed by the amount of white space that you’ll be working with. It can also be tempting to fill in every single space with veins. To maintain just the right balance of white space and veins, we recommend 2 or 3 major veins per 3-foot section.

If you don’t like how a vein looks, or have multiple veins that aren’t consistent with your desired look you can easily repair that section and re- create your veins (see the COMMON MISTAKES section of this guide).

Remember, if you have questions or concerns, we’re a phone call, email, or Live Chat away from lending a hand. Just let us know what you need help with, and we can guide you through the process.
After shaking the Grey Veining Mineral can well, fill your Misting Bottle with water and grab the kit’s included Artist’s Brush. When loading the brush with paint, we recommend coating the bristles with the Grey Mineral.

Begin your first vein by gently holding the Artist Brush, and lightly drag the gray veining mineral across the surface of your countertop. Slightly twist your brush as you drag to emulate the flows of natural marble. Try not to paint perfectly straight diagonal lines, and keep your vein as thin as possible. And if the weight of your vein starts off uneven, or if it’s broken in some sections, no worries, the variation adds to the character and creates a more genuine look.

Keep your references handy, but try not to be too concerned with making the veins exactly like your found examples. Just work toward the general idea. You’ll have more control over the look and weight of your veins with the spray bottle and the 2″ Brush.

Then mist your vein with water from about 12″ away using the kit’s Misting Bottle. You’ll know when you’ve used enough water when the gray mineral starts to bleed.

Next, lightly dab your vein using a dry 2″ Brush. You’ll notice that the edges of your vein will start to fade into the white background, creating the characteristic mineral foundations of natural marble. In addition to dabbing your veins to soften them, you can also experiment by gently brushing back and forth over the vein to create a feathered effect, or using the 2″ Brush to push the mineral paint to reshape your veins.

TIP: As you soften your veins, be sure to wipe off any excess moisture from your Brush every so often by blotting it with a paper towel. You can also blot your surface with a paper towel to remove excess water after misting your veins.

A GUIDE TO VEIN STYLES

We’ve chosen 4 vein styles to show you. These are the most common types that we have found in samples of natural marble. You will use the same basic techniques described above to adjust your vein styles.

EXTENDED VEIN

For sections of countertop that require long, continuous veins, it’s easier to break the veins into segments.
Mist each segment individually, apply your softening techniques and blend each segment so that they appear as one, connected vein.

Y-VEIN

Start with a vein that you’ve already created, preferably one that is pretty simple. From one end of the vein, create a new vein that branches off to form a Y or an upside-down Y.

Use your softening techniques to blend the sections together.

Try to keep your veins thin and fluid rather than bold and choppy, and don’t forget to create some variation in your line by twisting and wiggling your Artist’s Brush. Also, when blending, use light pressure so you don’t lose the structure of your veins.

CRESCENT VEIN

Start with a vein that has a curved segment. Then, on the inside of the curved portion, create another mirror-image curve and connect. When finished, it should look like a loop.

RIPPLE VEIN

Create the rippled effect by painting a parallel vein a few inches away from another vein, following its curves.
You can choose to either connect the ripple to it’s partner, or run parallel all the way to the edge of your countertop.

Don’t forget that you can also create veins that are simple, without using the variations from the illustrated styles. For the most authentic look, we find that less is truly more. Keep your found examples and your vein map close by and use them as your guides.

COMMON MISTAKES

• Too Bold
  

• Too Bold & Choppy
  

• Too Straight
  

If you’re not happy with the way a vein looks, or if you don’t like the placement, simply mist it enough times to flood the area with water and wipe it away. Start fresh, or move on to another section of your countertop. IMPORTANT: Once a vein is dry, it will be harder to remove with water. However, if you don’t like a vein that has already dried, simply prime over the vein with a little of the White Base, allow it to dry, and re-create your vein.

BACKSPLASH & EDGES

For backsplash veins, use the veins you’ve already created on the main countertop surface and connect. Be sure to follow the direction of the vein for a more natural appearance. Do not over spray the water and watch for any runs or drips!

On the edges, carry the direction of the vein in its natural flow, just like a slab of real marble.

ACCENT VEINS & HIGHLIGHTS

Accent Veins:
Now that your major veins are complete, take a step to see if you’d like to create more depth by adding accent veins. If you are happy with the coverage of your major veins, you are ready to move on to top coating your counter.

Accent veins should be supplements and shouldn’t distract from your major veins. We recommend one accent vein per 3 or 4 -foot section.

Creating accent veins follows a similar process as your major veins. Start by using the same techniques to make thin, wispy strokes, and thoroughly wet with the misting bottle. Then feather and dab the area, this time, over-blending until it looks faded or shadowy.

If your accent veins become too wide, you can always spray liberally with water and use the brush to push the paint inward toward the center of the vein to create a more defined line. NOTE: Once again, refer to your vein map to determine where to place your accent veins.

White Highlights:
After stirring the White Highlight Mineral thoroughly, pour a small amount onto a paper plate. Your kit includes a specialized Giani sponge, and depending on what is comfortable, you can either cut your sponge in half for a smaller portion or use it as is. Lightly dab your sponge into the White Highlight paint and dab any off excess onto a clean paper plate. Lightly sponge on white flecks in areas on or around your veins for some added depth.

Keep in mind that the highlights mimic the small quartz bits you find mixed in with the veins in slabs of marble. They should accentuate your veins.

Allow your veins and highlights to dry for at least 4 hours before moving on to the next step. While you wait, bring your set of the Ultra Epoxy Topcoat into the room and allow them to acclimate to the ambient temperature.

STEP 3: POUR & ROLL EPOXY TOPCOAT

APPLYING GIANI ULTRA EPOXY RESIN TOPCOAT IS TIME SENSITIVE. Please read all instructions carefully and watch the application videos on our website before beginning this step. Also, please review the included Safety Data Sheet (SDS) prior to use.

If you’re applying the Ultra Epoxy Resin Topcoat over an existing Giani High- Gloss or Glitter Topcoat finish, then it must be fully cured (applied for 14 days) prior to using the epoxy. Additionally, if you have any blemishes in your current finish, repair them before applying the epoxy. For instructions, scroll to the bottom of the “How Do I Care for My Countertops?” tab in the Giani FAQs menu at gianigranite.com.

PREPWORK

Minimize the movement of air within your workspace to keep dust, lint, and other contaminants from falling into the epoxy.

• Close windows and exterior doors
• Turn off all fans
• Close floor and ceiling HVAC vents

Restrict access to your workspace. Make sure to keep the area free of pets and children to minimize accidental contact with the epoxy.
TIP: Post signs around your workspace announcing that your countertop is wet and should not be used until the surface has cured for at least 48 hours.

If you are applying your kit on a small kitchen countertop, use painter’s tape to create “dams” on the edge of your countertops that are next to appliances. Firmly press the sticky side of the tape against the edge of the countertop with about a half-inch of the adhesive side sticking up. This will protect appliances from contact with the epoxy.

Use the included plastic tarps to cover your cabinets, floors, appliances, independently installed sink, faucets, and fixtures. Usesmall pieces of tape to hold the tarps in place, and run long strips of tape along the underside of your countertop. This will protect against kit materials that, when hardened, could leave a rough edge.

MIXING THE COMPONENTS

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT CURING: Once the Ultra Epoxy Resin Topcoat components have been mixed, the reaction cannot be stopped. The topcoat comes as a set. The set contains 2 cans: one can of Activator and one can of Resin. The amounts are designed so that the contents of the Epoxy Activator will fit perfectly into the Epoxy Resin can. The set is provided to give plenty of time to apply the mixture to a countertop that is 12 square feet (6 liner feet). Failure to empty all of the Activator into the Resin will prevent the finished application from completely curing. The surface of your countertop will remain tacky and need to be stripped.

HEALTH & SAFETY – The Giani Ultra Epoxy Activator contains corrosive material: Isophoronediamine. Wash hands after use. Do not get in eyes, on skin, or on clothing. Do not breathe vapors or mists. Use good personal hygiene practices. Eating, drinking, and smoking in work areas is prohibited. Remove contaminated clothing and protective equipment before entering eating areas. Eyewash stations and showers should be available in areas where this material is used and stored. Individuals with existing respiratory disease such as chronic bronchitis, emphysema, or asthma should not be exposed. Wear appropriate clothing to avoid skin contact to the epoxy during your application.

With your safety glasses and gloves on, open the contents of the Ultra Epoxy Resin Topcoat.

Pour the ENTIRE can of the Epoxy Activator into the can of Epoxy Resin. Check to make sure you empty all of the contents of the Activator. If the mixture is incorrect, it can prevent the topcoat from curing properly.

TIP: Discard the empty Epoxy Activator can so that you only have the Resin container in your work area, and so that you are not tempted to use it as a holder for your roller. See the EPOXY DISPOSAL section of this guide.

Wipe a stir stick with your bare hand to remove any wood dust before mixing the components. Tiny dust particles can cause small imperfections in the cured finish. Then, using the same stick, stir the epoxy mixture for 3 minutes and 30 seconds. Stir vigorously, scraping the sides and bottom to mix thoroughly.

IMPORTANT: Time the mixing EXACTLY. If the combined Activator and Resin are under mixed it will prevent the finished application from completely curing, or take longer than normal to fully cure.

EPOXY APPLICATION

AFTER MIXING THE COMPONENTS, YOU HAVE ABOUT 30 MINUTES TO COMPLETELY COAT YOUR COUNTERTOP before it stops flowing adequately. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes to coat 6 linear feet.

Slowly pour the entire mixture onto your countertop. It helps to pour the mixture in 3 streams to make sure you’ll have even coverage. Start by pouring one stream at the base of your backsplash, one in the center of your countertops, and one close to the edge. You’ll want to pour out the contents onto your countertop immediately after mixing because the epoxy’s hardening rate will accelerate when left in the can.

Use the included 2″ Angle Brush and transfer some of the Epoxy mixture to your attached backsplash, gently coating it as you brush along your countertop. Lightly brush back across the length of the backsplash once or twice to minimize the possibility of runs and bare spots. Then, use the brush to coat the epoxy around the perimeter, as well as along the bottom of the backsplash. This will make filling in the surface easier. Brush out the epoxy a little from the backsplash crease because the epoxy can pool there.

Next, use your kit’s Foam Roller to slowly and evenly distribute the epoxy over the surface of your countertop. Since the epoxy is self-leveling, try not to overwork your application. It helps to hold the roller handle gently between your fingers and thumb, and lightly roll the epoxy over your countertops. This will keep you from gripping the handle too tightly, and applying too much pressure to the roller. Too much pressure can spread the mixture too thin and cause defects in the cured finish. To make sure they’re fully coated, lightly roll the edge of your counters. It’s okay if the epoxy runs onto the tarps -you want a good layer of epoxy on your edges since they tend to experience the most amount of wear and friction, especially around the sink area. NOTE: A small amount of epoxy may continue to drip off the front edge of your countertop for a short while as it self-levels; typically about 30 to 60 minutes.

Directly after rolling the Ultra Epoxy mixture onto the surface of your countertop, coat your sink bowl with the 2″ Angled Brush. Starting at the top of the bowl, slowly brush the epoxy around the bowl’s entire circumference in successive, overlapping rows as you work your way toward the drain. If you start to notice drips or runs down the sides of your sink, use the excess epoxy to continue to coat the bowl as you move down. If the epoxy starts to pool at the base of the sink, lightly brush the mixture around the bowl.

If you have an independently installed sink, use the proportionate amount for the countertop on one side of the sink and continue on the opposite side of the sink until the entire mixture has been used.

IMPORTANT: Once you’ve rolled on your topcoat, do NOT add more epoxy unless you have bare spots. Doing so will result in adding an unbalanced proportion of the mix onto the new epoxy which creates a blemish.

Once you’re finished applying the Ultra Epoxy, grab a bright light and closely inspect your countertop for bare spots, bubbles, or lint. You’ll have about 40 minutes after applying the epoxy to correct any flaws. To fix a small bare spot, use the 2″ Brush to drizzle a little epoxy onto the spot and dab lightly.

Most of the trapped air will release on its own within a few minutes of rolling. However, for the occasional bubble, lint, or dust, use tweezers to gently pop the bubbles, or pull out the debris. Just make sure not to use the tweezers after an hour. At this point the epoxy is starting to cure, and doing so may leave a divot. NOTE: The Ultra Epoxy Topcoat does not require a blow torch or heat gun to release any excess air because it has been formulated with air release agents.

IMPORTANT: Remove the tape precisely between 1 to 2 hours after you’ve finished applying the epoxy. If you remove the tape earlier, then the epoxy may continue to self-level onto an appliance, and if you remove the tape later, then it may create jagged edges and become cemented into the epoxy.

Remove the tape very slowly in order to prevent any debris from falling into the still-tacky epoxy. You may need a step stool to reach the tape above the backsplash so that you don’t touch the countertop edge. Be sure to leave any ceiling fans turned off, and vents and windows closed to prevent dust or lint from blowing onto the epoxy as it cures. Do NOT attempt to remove any debris from the epoxy after one hour because removal will create a divot in the final finish and the epoxy will not fill it back in. If this occurs, the debris can be buffed out in the future once the epoxy has fulled cured.

Wait 48 hours before applying clear acrylic caulk (not silicone) around your backsplash and sink.

WHEN CAN I USE MY COUNTERTOP AGAIN?

Once applied, the epoxy will be tack free in 6 to 8 hours. If you used Giani in a kitchen, you can use your dishwasher after 24 hours. After 48 hours, you may lightly use your counter, but it is recommended to wait the full cure time of 7 days (time it takes for your finish to reach its maximum hardness) before cleaning with anything but mild soap and water or placing heavy objects on it. Food Safety: Once Giani Ultra Epoxy fully cures, it’s completely inert.

EPOXY DISPOSAL

Dispose of empty product containers properly. Do not use sawdust or other fine cellulose materials to absorb any waste Epoxy Activator. Do not dispose of the Epoxy Activator in the trash containing sawdust or other fine cellulose materials as spontaneous combustion may occur. Do not dispose in a liquid state – the two cans can be mixed and cured in small quantities to create a non-hazardous inert solid. Unused, unmixed Giani Ultra Epoxy Resin and Epoxy Activator have a shelf-life of 1.5 years when stored in the sealed containers.

CAUTION! Large containers of curing Ultra Epoxy Topcoat can get hot enough to ignite surrounding combustible materials and give off hazardous fumes. Consequently, place any cans of unused, mixed epoxy in a safe and ventilated area, uncovered, and away from people and combustible materials. The excess mixture will cure and harden into a solid mass. Dispose of the mass only if the cure is complete and has cooled, which typically takes about 8 hours. Follow federal, state, or local disposal regulations. The disposal guidelines above may not comply with the laws and regulations in your area. If you are uncertain, refer to local and national regulations.

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Only use mild dish soap and water or Giani Countertop Cleaner. Never use harsh chemicals such as bleach, household cleaners, Magic Eraser®, Pine Sol®, Windex®, disinfectant wipes, or any abrasives such as Comet® or Soft Scrub®. Do not use polishes or granite cleaners. Even diluted solutions of a cleaner and water will wear down the durability of the topcoat over time. Never use harsh natural cleaners such as vinegar, rubbing alcohol, hand sanitizers, air freshener oils, or essential oils. Never use scouring pads.

Hot Surf aces: As with traditional countertops, we recommend against setting hot items directly onto your countertops. Although Giani is heat resistant up to 150° F, for accessories such as curling irons, flat irons, heated rollers, and hair dryers, using a protective stand, mat, or holder provided with each item will greatly reduce the likeliness of damage to your countertops.

Food Prep: Just like with natural stone, cultured marble, or laminate, we recommend using a cutting board for any meal preparation. Using a knife on Giani countertops can scratch or gouge the surface.

Stains: You can remove stubborn stains with nail polish remover (acetone) and a paper towel.

UV Rays: If possible, minimize direct, all-day UV contact. All epoxies exhibit some UV effect over time; the Giani Ultra Epoxy Resin Topcoat UV effect will be minimal, however, we recommend minimizing direct UV contact if possible. If you have a window which provides all day direct sunlight on your countertops, then close its blinds while you’re away from home.

Please note: Even if you follow the application instructions perfectly, your Giani may show signs of wear if you don’t follow these proper care instructions. With the proper care, Giani will last as long as any conventional countertop.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

KEEP FROM FREEZING. IF FROZEN, LET THAW.
In the winter, both paint and epoxy are at risk for freezing due to the cold temperatures they may be exposed to during warehouse storage and delivery. Frozen paint and epoxy can sometimes be tricky to determine initially because your cans won’t feel cold to the touch – however, the contents will exhibit a grainy/slushy texture. But not to worry, the paint and epoxy will completely recover! We recommend allowing all materials to recover at room temperature for one week before applying. DO NOT apply kit materials if they appears clumpy or frozen. Apply at 72°F – 75°F.

FIRST AID INSTRUCTIONS

Inhalation: Remove source of exposure or move person to fresh air and keep comfortable for breathing. If exposed/feel unwell/concerned: Call a POISON CENTER/doctor.

Skin Contact: Rinse/wash with lukewarm, gently flowing water and mild soap for 15-20 minutes or until product is removed. If skin irritation occurs or you feel unwell: Get medical advice/attention. IF exposed or concerned: Get medical advice/attention.
Eye Contact: Remove source of exposure or move person to fresh air. Rinse eyes cautiously with lukewarm, gently flowing water for several minutes, while holding the eyelids open. Remove contact lenses, if present and easy to do. Continue rinsing for a duration of 15-20 minutes. Take care not to rinse contaminated water into the unaffected eye or onto the face. If eye irritation persists: Get medical advice/attention.
Ingestion: Rinse mouth. Do NOT induce vomiting. Immediately call a POISON CENTER/doctor. If vomiting occurs naturally, lie on your side, in the recovery position. Give 3 or 4 glasses of water to drink. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person.

EXPOSURE CONTROLS/ PERSONAL PROTECTION INSTRUCTIONS

Eye Protection: Wear eye protection with side shields or goggles. Wear indirect-vent, impact and splash resistant goggles when working with liquids. If additional protection is needed for entire face, use in combination with a face shield.

Skin Protection: Use of gloves approved to relevant standards made from the following materials may provide suitable chemical protection: PVC, neoprene or nitrile rubber gloves. Suitability and durability of a glove is dependent on usage, e.g. frequency and duration of contact, chemical resistance of glove material, glove thickness, dexterity. Always seek advice from glove suppliers. Contaminated gloves should be replaced. Use of an apron and over- boots of chemically impervious materials such as neoprene or nitrile rubber is recommended to avoid skin sensitization. The type of protective equipment must be selected according to the concentration and amount of the dangerous substance at the specific workplace. Launder soiled clothes or properly disposed of contaminated material, which cannot be decontaminated.

Respiratory Protection: If engineering controls do not maintain airborne concentrations to a level which is adequate to protect worker, a respiratory protection program that meets or is equivalent to OSHA 29 CFR 1910.134 and ANSI 288.2 should be followed. Check with respiratory protective equipment suppliers. In poorly ventilated areas, a cartridge mask NIOSH approved for organic vapors is recommended under the following conditions: emergency situations, when product vapor concentration is greater than 20 ppm for a period longer than 15 min., during repair and cleaning of equipment, during transfer or discharge of the product.

Appropriate Engineering Controls: Provide exhaust ventilation or other engineering controls to keep the airborne concentrations of vapors below their respective threshold limit value.

LIMITED MATERIAL WARRANTY

Giani, Inc. warrants, for a period of 12 months from the date of application, if applied during the materials’ proper shelf life (paint has a shelf life of 2 years, and epoxy has a shelf life of 1.5 years), that its products are free of defects in material and workmanship, when applied and maintained in accordance with surface preparation and application recommended by Giani. This limited warranty covers a one-time fulfillment of replacement material(s) or a product refund excluding shipping costs. After 12 months, customers are expected to maintain their countertops, garages, cabinets, appliances, and furniture/projects, and take the proper care as listed under the FAQ/Instructions and cover any damages that ensue if care is not maintained.

This Warranty Does Not Cover:

• Dissatisfaction with the color, finish/shine, or application process.
• Problems or damage due to application or maintenance other than as recommended by Giani in its printed labels and instructions.
• Labor costs (as these are DIY kits and designed for use by anyone and does not require the use of a contractor or professional painter).
• Damage due to accidents or damage caused by chemicals not approved for exposure by Giani, Inc.
• Usage of third-party paints over any Giani product, such as other topcoats/epoxies, other than as recommend by Giani in its printed labels and instructions.
• Minor chips or wear from excessive impact or friction.
• Returns, exchanges, or refunds from a retail store or an online marketplace other than gianigranite.com.

This warranty requires that the customer provide pictures and answer a series of questions to determine if there are defects with any Giani products. It also allows customer support to assess, and provide a positive solution on how to fix any issues so that they do not persist. Please contact us if you are concerned about your Giani product.

GIANI, Inc. 1 Lincoln Way, St. Louis, MO 63120
www.gianigranite.com // info@gianigranite.com
800-650-5699 II +1 314-241-3500
International Emergency: +49 69-2222-5285

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