MSI Surfaces Everlife SPC Flooring Instructions
- June 13, 2024
- MSI Surfaces
Table of Contents
Instructions
Everlife SPC Flooring
- Read enclosed detailed installation instructions before beginning install.
- A flat subfloor is a must!
- Proper moisture testing is a must!
- Proper expansion around all permanent structures is a must!
- Molding, trim, transition, and finish pieces must not prevent the floor from floating.
- Failure to follow installation instructions will void warranty.
- No acclimation is required under proper conditions.
Please Carefully Read All Instructions Before You Begin Your Installation.
Improper Installation Will Void The Warranty.
Always check flooring planks for defects such as chips and color variations
under good light conditions. Check that groove are free of debris. Use planks
from multiple boxes during installation to insure random pattern variation.
No acclimation is required under proper conditions. However, if flooring is
exposed to temperatures less than 40⁰ F (5⁰ C) or more than 95⁰ F (35⁰ C)
and/or if the flooring is exposed to relative humidity below 35% or above 70%,
flooring must be conditioned by spreading them out in unopened cartons, not
stacked, in the room where they will be installed, for minimum 12 hours under
the recommended temperature and humidity ranges specified in this installation
guide.
The area in which the flooring is installed must remain *climate controlled
with the temperature between 65°- 85°F (18-25°C) for the life of the product.
- MSI’s Ever life SPC flooring may be installed in a vacation home, three-seasons rooms, etc., with a temperature between 55-95°F (13-35°C) at least 48-hours before and during the installation, even if temporary temperature measures must be taken. Thereafter,
the temperature cannot fall to below 40°F (5°C) or higher than 95°F (35°C), and RH must maintain between 35 – 70%. In these installations, you must use transition moldings at doorways and in any span greater than 40’ in any direction, as is true in light commercial and radiant heat installations.
This product is a floating floor and should NOT be secured to the floor. Do not install fixed objects, such as cabinets, on top of the flooring unless it is fully adhered and do not fasten trim/molding/transition pieces directly to the floor.
You may adhere MSI’s Ever life SPC flooring in light commercial and commercial installations using MSI’s MS007 adhesive, following directions on the adhesive guidelines.
Required Tools and Supplies:
- Circular Saw
- Safety Glasses
- ¼” or ½” spacers
- Utility Knife
- Straight Edge Ruler or T-Square
- Pencil
- Tape Measure
If existing baseboard molding is difficult to remove, Quarter Round molding likely will be required to cover the expansion space need between flooring and baseboard.
SUITABLE TYPES OF SUB FLOORS AND FLOOR PREPARATION
The sub floor must be flat, dry, and clean. Carpet staples or any/all adhesive
residue must be removed and floor must be clean to ensure proper installation.
All wooden subfloors must be structurally sound and must be installed
following the American Plywood Association’s (APA) and the manufacturer’s
recommendations. If it is uncertain that any old adhesive residue may cause
issues, use MSI’s MS005 Adhesive Encapsulate.
To check for flatness, hammer a nail into the center of the floor. Tie a
string to the nail and push the knot against the floor. Pull the string tight
to the farthest corner of the room and examine the floor for any high/lows
relative to the string. Subfloors must be flat to 1/8” per 6’ (3mm per 0.92
meter). Any areas in excess of the flatness specification must be sanded down
or filled with an appropriate leveler.
This product can be installed over most existing floors including wood, non-
cushioned vinyl or linoleum, and ceramic/porcelain tile if the existing
flooring is intact and properly secured to the subfloor. If installing over
ceramic/porcelain tile, grout lines in excess of 1/16” (0.625) must be filled
with a Portland based skim coat/floor leveler according to the manufacturer’s
guidelines.
Warning: This product should not be installed over carpet. Installation
over carpet will void the warranty. When installed in rooms with direct
sunlight, during the peak hours of sunlight, the use of blinds/ shades or
drapes to avoid prolonged direct sunlight period is recommended.
This product is waterproof but is not a moisture barrier. The product can
withstand topical water and water penetration for up to 16 hours without being
damaged. However, water leaking over and around the outer edges of the
flooring can damage a wood subfloor and breed mold/mildew growth on subfloor
and walls. This is not considered a defect in the flooring.
Moisture in concrete subfloors can create high moisture vapor emission levels,
hydrostatic pressure, and high alkalinity levels. This combination is highly
corrosive and damaging to flooring, over time. To avoid this, ensure that
concrete subfloors are constructed according to the American Concrete
Institution’s guidelines (ACI’s 302.2 Guide). To check current conditions, a
RH test using in situ Probes (ASTM F2170) is necessary. There also is calcium
chloride testing (ASTM F1869) but the in situ Probe (ASTM F2170) is the
preferred test. Lightweight concrete (minimum density of 90 lbs. per cubic
foot) is acceptable if installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions
and primed with MSI’s MS003 primer. Cover the ground surface with a minimum 6
mil (0.15mm) plastic poly sheeting moisture barrier.
Note: New concrete needs to cure for at least 60 days before installing
flooring materials.
If considering Radiant heat, only Hydronic radiant heat is allowed. The
heating components must have a minimum of 3/8” separation from the product.
System must be operational for a minimum of two weeks prior to installation.
Five days prior to installation, the temperature should be reduced to 65° F
(18° C). After installation, the temperature can be raised gradually (5° F per
hour) to a maximum operation temperature of 85°F (29° C). An in-floor
thermostat is recommended to avoid overheating and a transition strip must be
used for any installation longer than 40’ in any direction. It is also
suggested to use T-Molding in doorways.
INSTALLATION
-
INSTALLING FIRST ROW
Set spacers to allow a minimum gap of ¼” (6mm) around the perimeter of the subfloor for movement or product expansion.
Do not remove the spacers until the installation is complete.
The expansion gaps should be covered by molding. -
Measure the length of the room in inches. Divide it by the length of the planks. If the resulting number is less than 8”, you will need to cut your first plank accordingly to avoid having planks that are less than 8” on the opposite end of the room.
Note: To cut a plank, simply measure and mark the plank. Then, use a straight edge and utility knife to score and snap. You will also need to back- cut the under pad on the bottom of the plank. If you have difficulty using this method, you can use a jig saw, circular saw or miter saw. -
Installation should start in a left-hand corner and proceed from the wall with the tongue facing the wall. Position the first plank 6” (15.2cm) from the starting wall but not up against the spacers. The entire row will be moved against the spacers in a later step.
-
Interlock the next plank at the end joint of the first plank by inserting the tongue into the groove of the adjoining planks.
Square the joints by tapping the long edge with the profiled tapping block and soft-faced hammer. Next, lightly tap down on top of the plank at the short joint with the soft-faced hammer.
Continue this method to finish the first row.
Cut the last piece of the row to fit, and allow for the ¼” (6mm) expansion gap (if you have not already done so). Install as above. -
INSTALLING SECOND AND REMAINING ROWS
Cut the first plank of the second row to two-thirds its length or make sure there will be at least an 8” (20.3cm) stagger between end joints. Angle the long tongue edge of the plank into the long groove edge of the first plank. Drop and lock the end joints together. Make sure there are no gaps and, if necessary, tap along the long groove edge using the soft-faced hammer and profiled tapping block to ensure a tight fit.
Do not tap the short end into place if the long joint is not properly engaged, as doing so can cause damage to the tongue and groove. Note: When starting a new row, you can use the cut piece from the previous row, as long as it is more than 8” (20.3cm) and the stagger between seams still is greater than 8” (20.3cm). -
Attach the second plank by connecting the long side to the first row and sliding it up to the short end of the first plank. Check that the long joints of the planks are properly engaged and then press the short joint into place with your fingers.
-
Continue to square the joints by tapping the long edge with the profiled tapping block and soft-faced hammer. Then, lightly tap down on top of the plank at the short joint with the soft-faced hammer. Continue installing the remainder of the row in this fashion.
-
After installing the last piece of the second row, slide the entire assembly against the spacers on the starting wall, maintaining the required ¼” (6mm) expansion gap.
-
Install remaining rows, one row after the other, and maintain the required 8” (20.3cm) stagger throughout the install. Tap and square each plank as in step 7.
-
INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Most often, the entire length of the last row will need to be cut so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. Cut the first plank of the last row to length (if necessary to follow stagger pattern). Place directly on top of the previously installed row.
Then, take another plank and place it against the wall on top of the plank to be cut for width. Mark the plank (length-wise), cut to size. Remember to allow for the ¼” (6mm) expansion gap against fixed objects. -
Install the plank with the cut side always facing the wall. Use a pull bar to lock the long edges together. Do not use the pull bar on the short edges.
Continue to cut and install remainder of the planks in the last row.
FITTING AROUND IRREGULARLY SHAPED OBJECTS
Make a template to fit around pipes or irregular shaped objects. Place the
pattern upon the plank and trace. Cut along the trace lines using a utility
knife or jig saw, and lay plank. Alternatively, a hole saw can be used when
cutting planks that are to fit around pipes.
Note: Be sure to leave a minimum of ¼” (6mm) expansion space around all
fixed objects, cabinetry, and metal door jambs.
Maintenance, Tips, and Warnings
MAINTENANCE:
Dust-mop or broom can be used for daily maintenance. When necessary, clean
with a MOIST cloth or mop and a neutral PH cleaner – heavy use of detergent
cleaners will leave a residue and, over time, lead to a cloudy film.
NEVER USE floor polish or floor cleaning wax, oil soaps, etc. These products
can damage and/or leave a film on the flooring. This is not a flooring defect.
TIPS:
-Always use felt tip protectors on all furniture legs/feet, and regularly clean any gathered dirt/grit from the pads
-Entryway/walk off mats are recommended. Warning: Never use vinyl/latex/rubber backed protective mats
-Area rugs are recommended
-Keep pet nail trimmed
-Sharp shoe-heels (e.g. high-heels) may dent the floors
-Never slide furniture across a floor without pads
-Keep floors clean
-For wet areas such as bathrooms, caulk/completely seal the perimeter of the floor with a flexible silicone caulk
References
- MSI Countertops, Flooring, Backsplash Tile, and Hardscaping
- MSI Countertops, Flooring, Backsplash Tile, and Hardscaping
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>