Major Mfg HIT-49 Drillmaster 3 Cylindrical Lock Drill Instructions

Major Mfg HIT-49 Drillmaster 3 Cylindrical Lock Drill

HIT-49 SPECIFICATIONS

• DOOR THICKNESS—1-5/16” TO 2-1/4”
• DOOR TYPE—WOOD OR METAL
• DOOR BACKSET—2-3/8” OR 2-3/4”
• CROSS BORE—1-1/2” OR 2-1/8”
• EDGE BORE—1”
• DRILL BIT TYPE CROSS BOREHOLE SAW DRILL BIT TYPE EDGE BORE:
  WOOD DOOR—AUGER BIT
  METAL DOOR—HOLE SAW

introduction

• To adjust for 2-3/8” backset locks, install the two 3/8” cap screws as shown in picture. Make sure studs are fully threaded in.

• To adjust for 2-3/4” backset locks, remove the two 3/8” cap screws

• Hole saw guides are removable and can be replaced when worn out or if a different size is needed.

• There are two sizes of hole saw guides supplied, 1-1/2” and 2-1/8”.

• Using the supplied allen wrench, install the proper size hole saw guide. In this case we are using the 2-1/8”.

• A brad point bit or auger may be used for the latch hole. Here are two examples of auger bits that can be used. Make sure they are a 1” diameter and the twist diameter is also 1” in diameter.
  NOTE: do not attempt to use spade or paddle type bits or multi-spur bits. They will not work.

• Shown is a 1” DIABLO brand auger bit sold by home centers. While a good bit, it will not work in our drill guide. It is a 1” bit, but the twist is only 7/8” and will not be  supported by the guide.

• If drilling a steel door, a 1 inch hole saw can be used. NOTE: Because of the way hole saws are made, not all hole saws will fit this drill guide.

• A   1-1/2” or 2-1/8” hole saw will work in this drill guide. Be sure to use a good quality.

• Attach to the door in the following manner.
  With the cantilever knob loose clamp the guide to the door. Do not over tighten or the clamp will splay out.

• Tighten the cantilever knob, this will prevent the guide from splaying out..

• Tighten the main clamp knob. The HIT-49 drill guide will now be securely attached to the door.

• With a hole saw drill half way into the door. Use a lower RPM and back the bit out often to prevent from over heating the bit.

• Drill thru from the other side. Use the same procedure of backing out the bit.

• A 1” auger bit being used to drill the latch hole.

• Drill thru to the cross bore in one operation, the screw point on the auger bit will not allow you to pull it out when drilling.

• With the cross bore drilled the mounting holes are now complete. Remove the drill guide from the door.

• Shown below are some of our tools that will help finish your job.Here we are using our HIT-44LM3 latch marking tool to mark the area for the faceplate. There is a 1/16” shim that is used to adjust to a 1” or 1-1/8” face. With the shims on the inside, this will mark a 1-1/8” face, shims outside will mark a 1” wide faceplate.

• The use of a combination square will help to square the marker to the door.

• Mark for the faceplate with the use of a hammer.

• Use a sharp box cutter to deepen the vertical outline left by the marking tool. If you use a chisel for this step you run the risk of splitting out the side of the door.A chisel can be used to deepen the top and bottom of the outlined area. Once everything has been outlined, chisel out the latch mortise.

• Don’t forget to mark the jamb for the strike plate. Shown is our HIT-44SL8 1” strike locator.
  See our HIT-24 for locating a strike on a steel jamb.

• Use one of our centering drills to drill for the latch screw. This will assure a centered hole and will allow you to drive in the screw with out splitting the door. Do not attempt to drive in a screw without a pilot hole.

• Install the lock per the manufacturers instructions.
  That’s all there is to it!

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