Major Mfg HIT-49 Drillmaster 3 Cylindrical Lock Drill Instructions
- June 5, 2024
- Major Mfg
Table of Contents
Major Mfg HIT-49 Drillmaster 3 Cylindrical Lock Drill
HIT-49 SPECIFICATIONS
- DOOR THICKNESS—1-5/16” TO 2-1/4”
- DOOR TYPE—WOOD OR METAL
- DOOR BACKSET—2-3/8” OR 2-3/4”
- CROSS BORE—1-1/2” OR 2-1/8”
- EDGE BORE—1”
- DRILL BIT TYPE CROSS BOREHOLE SAW DRILL BIT TYPE EDGE BORE:
WOOD DOOR—AUGER BIT
METAL DOOR—HOLE SAW
introduction
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To adjust for 2-3/8” backset locks, install the two 3/8” cap screws as shown in picture. Make sure studs are fully threaded in.
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To adjust for 2-3/4” backset locks, remove the two 3/8” cap screws
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Hole saw guides are removable and can be replaced when worn out or if a different size is needed.
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There are two sizes of hole saw guides supplied, 1-1/2” and 2-1/8”.
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Using the supplied allen wrench, install the proper size hole saw guide. In this case we are using the 2-1/8”.
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A brad point bit or auger may be used for the latch hole. Here are two examples of auger bits that can be used. Make sure they are a 1” diameter and the twist diameter is also 1” in diameter.
NOTE: do not attempt to use spade or paddle type bits or multi-spur bits. They will not work. -
Shown is a 1” DIABLO brand auger bit sold by home centers. While a good bit, it will not work in our drill guide. It is a 1” bit, but the twist is only 7/8” and will not be supported by the guide.
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If drilling a steel door, a 1 inch hole saw can be used. NOTE: Because of the way hole saws are made, not all hole saws will fit this drill guide.
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A 1-1/2” or 2-1/8” hole saw will work in this drill guide. Be sure to use a good quality.
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Attach to the door in the following manner.
With the cantilever knob loose clamp the guide to the door. Do not over tighten or the clamp will splay out. -
Tighten the cantilever knob, this will prevent the guide from splaying out..
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Tighten the main clamp knob. The HIT-49 drill guide will now be securely attached to the door.
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With a hole saw drill half way into the door. Use a lower RPM and back the bit out often to prevent from over heating the bit.
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Drill thru from the other side. Use the same procedure of backing out the bit.
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A 1” auger bit being used to drill the latch hole.
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Drill thru to the cross bore in one operation, the screw point on the auger bit will not allow you to pull it out when drilling.
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With the cross bore drilled the mounting holes are now complete. Remove the drill guide from the door.
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Shown below are some of our tools that will help finish your job.
Here we are using our HIT-44LM3 latch marking tool to mark the area for the faceplate. There is a 1/16” shim that is used to adjust to a 1” or 1-1/8” face. With the shims on the inside, this will mark a 1-1/8” face, shims outside will mark a 1” wide faceplate. -
The use of a combination square will help to square the marker to the door.
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Mark for the faceplate with the use of a hammer.
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Use a sharp box cutter to deepen the vertical outline left by the marking tool. If you use a chisel for this step you run the risk of splitting out the side of the door.
A chisel can be used to deepen the top and bottom of the outlined area. Once everything has been outlined, chisel out the latch mortise. -
Don’t forget to mark the jamb for the strike plate. Shown is our HIT-44SL8 1” strike locator.
See our HIT-24 for locating a strike on a steel jamb. -
Use one of our centering drills to drill for the latch screw. This will assure a centered hole and will allow you to drive in the screw with out splitting the door. Do not attempt to drive in a screw without a pilot hole.
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Install the lock per the manufacturers instructions.
That’s all there is to it!